SFWanderer

After many offline hours I've finally completed my first travel report. It's very lengthy for most reports but I truly hope you enjoy it.

SFO-NRT

Well, Mr. SFWanderer and I finally made it to Thailand. The journey began on 12/15/05 when we took BART from San Francisco at around 7:30am to SFO. It was easier and cost efficient as we would be gone for 2 weeks and didn’t want to leave our car in long-term parking. Without delay we were checked in at the first class counter of ANA #008 (NH) for our 11:00am flight. I asked if there was an outside chance whether a representative could meet our flight at NRT and escort us to the first class lounge but the agent, instead of laughing at the absurdity, gracefully stated that I could ask anyone for assistance when we arrived and included a lounge information map in our ticket jacket. She processed us straight through to our connection with Thai #677 (TG) and we proceeded to security. It only took me three minutes to breeze through it but somehow Mr. SFW got maneuvered behind a large family and didn’t emerge for another 10 minutes.

I immediately took notice of the entrance to the RCC that was to the immediate right and began to toe tap the floor as I was very anxious to go inside. I grabbed the digital to begin my photo diary of my trip with Flyertalk very much in mind and discovered to my dismay that the battery was dead! I knew I could recharge it inside but I wasn’t sure how quickly it would take to get it going again.

In 10 minute intervals I’d unplug it to get as many pictures as possible before it went dead again so I apologize in advance for some of the blurred photos.

There was no line to enter the RCC so the agent wasn’t yet frazzled and welcomed us in warmly. He took note that Mr. SFW’s FF number wasn’t on the ticket and quickly took care of it. We took the escalator up and upon reaching the top were immediately impressed by the sheer size of this room. It was still early so there were very few passengers in here. We were particularly impressed by the bar (though too early to fully partake of its inventory) at the far eastern end. We helped ourselves to the little tidbits of food and juice to tie ourselves over for awhile and began working on the Christmas cards I had yet to complete, occasionally stopping to walk around and take another snapshot or two.

Before leaving for the First Class Lounge further down the terminal, I dropped off the small stack of addressed cards with one of the 3 agents at the desk who happily received them to be mailed. We wished them a Merry Christmas and left a large box of Godiva chocolates to enjoy. Ah, you should have seen the look! Spreading Xmas cheer is always so much fun!!

When entering the international first class lounge we were immediately checked in at the small desk by one of two agents and were pointed to the elevator 3 steps away to take us to the lower level. People of the flying community, I tell you, it simply took our breath away! “Old world elegance” came to mind. Wrought iron lacing, neutral tones, dramatic chandeliers and a quiet hush embraced you. Compared to the RCC we just arrived from, this room is small and intimate where only the privileged few get to experience. We had our choice of papers to read; Financial Times, WSJ, SF Chronicle, NY Times, USA Today and assorted Japanese-language editions. Our snack selection included fruit, cereal, freshly baked cookies, macaroons, brownies and pastries. Beer was on ice and of course, soft drinks and coffee were available.

Sometimes I felt you needed to speak hushed voices.

Though I was loving the ambiance, after an hour it was time to join our flight.

We proceeded down to the gate and waited for first calling. When the first announcement was made (in Japanese) most got up en masse so we knew it was time to go. Who knew if it was called by class, however, it didn’t matter whether you sat in row 1 or row 50, everyone proceeded through one of two doors that merged onto one jetway. Oh well, big deal, we were sitting in seats 2E,K for the next 11 hours!

Most of the 10 first class passengers were settling in so I felt a little self-conscience taking pictures though I wasn’t sure the battery was even charged enough to do so. When the flight attendant came to take our blazers we handed to her our 2nd box of Godiva chocolates. She was confused and didn’t know what to make of it. When I nudged further to accept it as our gift to her she was as happy as the crew in the RCC room.

Shortly afterwards, she returned with a basket of amenities for us to select from and to be stashed in a handsome leather zip case. It wasn’t impressive but the bags later came in handy to hold our assorted PC and digital camera hardware.

The service included lunch with an extensive wine & beverage menu. Mr. SFW’s appetite for unique fare is a bit more daring than mine. He wanted to experience authentic Japanese cuisine where I settled for a more Western taste.

The Kaiseki course:

Zensai
Salmon-cheese roulade Marinated herring roe Unagi galantine
Salt-grilled shishamo smelt Sweet egg terrine Sweet chestnuts

Nimonowan
Duck breast, ponded rice cake and seasonal vegetables in hot seafood stock

Oshinogi
Our selection of sushi

Mushimono
Stemed prawn and pumpkin bun with rich seafood broth

Kobachi
Healthy unohan salad

Shusai
Buri Teriyaki
Konnyaku braised in light soy sauce
Assortment of grilled vegatables

Steamed rice, miso soup and assorted pickles

Dessert
your choice of the following

Ice cream medley
Lemon mousse cake with almond tuile
Warm pecan tart with vanilla ice cream

Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

Green tea, roasted tea
Wagashi
Toraya “Shin-midori” yokan



A la carte

Light, easy, uncomplicated dining. Choose the dishes that catch your imagination and each will be plated on board, producing a freshness and taste not unlike a fine restaurant dining experience. Naturally, we also offer a tempting range of fine wine and sake for your consideration.

Oscietra caviar with traditional garnish
Lobster, crab and ecrevisse salad with mustard vianigrett
Warm escargots ragout in Roquefort sauce on potato pancakes

Fresh garden salad with Japanese dressing
Turkey breast salad with walnut vinaigrette

Pan-fried beef tenderloin with Fontina and tarragon sauce

Pan-roasted sole Normandy

Pan-fried medallions of winter veenison with red wine vinegar reduction

Lettuce-wrapped mushroom risotto with tomato marinara


Selection of breads with a choice of dairy butter or extra-virgin olive oil


Ice cream medley
Lemon mousse cake with almond tuile
Warm pecan tart with vanilla ice cream
Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

I was always washing this down with the Krug Grande Cuvee however he was quite content with the selection of saki offered.

The food menu was extensive but the Wine and Beverage menu had a selection you see in the finest restaurants! Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis, a Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Shiraz. Also, there were 5 brands of sake, numerous brands of aperitifs, whiskies, spirits, brandy, liqueurs, port wine, beer, soft drinks, assorted teas and coffee(s) and 3 types of Japanese tea. Whew!

I couldn’t get much sleep simply because of the sheer excitement of finally going to Thailand. The 777 wasn’t equipped with the new style first class but the seats were quite comfortable and the service impeccable. I wanted to get the most out of it. Looking around the cabin I realized that there were 16 overhead bins for 12 passengers (again, only 10 today).

One of the details I took special notice was the FC bathroom. It was huge! It was also so clean the chrome was polished to a high brilliance. I took this moment getting up to walk to the back of the plane to stretch a bit. While returning to my seat, I was amused by the somewhat alarmed look of one of the attendants outside the galley as I approached the curtain to first class. She touched the arm of another attendant. Shoulder to shoulder, big smiles, and an obvious stance that I was to go no further I was asked if there was anything I needed. I don’t know why but I thought it was very cute and amusing to me. Being up front means you’re truly untouchable from the rest. How obscene!

Upon final approach, our flight attendant and purser came around to thank everyone personally for flying with them. They came to us and gave us a special thank you “on behalf of the entire crew and flight deck” for the delicious candy they all shared. If you’re still reading, think about doing this on your next flight. The delight you create is a great feeling!

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NRT-BKK

When we arrived at NRT and passed through security check just outside the jetway we entered the first lounge we saw (Club ANA) to our right. It appeared very busy inside. I showed them our boarding passes for our connection with TG and asked where we could locate the FC lounge. Immediately we were personally escorted upstairs to their lounge. A very nice touch.

The lounge is very small and simple. Nothing much about it other than making use of it as a quiet zone. I took this moment to charge the camera again and download some of the pictures I had taken at SFO in to the computer. A couple of glasses of white wine and some snacks were enough for us during the two hour layover. The lounge had a handful of passengers including an older couple from our flight that I first took notice in the FC lounge at SFO.

While in the lounge having our drinks a representative from Thai Airways came by to offer their limousine service to our hotel upon our arrival in Bangkok. I wondered how they knew where to locate us. We could have been shopping the terminal or sitting at the gate. I was very impressed! I thought to myself, “I think that would be all right,” but said “that would be wonderful, thank you.” She said she would return to escort us to the plane when it was time.

Later, as it was getting pretty close to that time, we were feeling a little anxious when we saw no sign of this escort. We thought she had forgotten and about 15 minutes before departure we decided to go it alone. Along the way, she came upon us and took us the rest of the way. We felt like VIP’s as it was obvious to others we were getting this escort. It’s a very special feeling, folks. Very choice!

TG#677 was Thai’s brand new A346 (sorry, I have no pics again) with eight First Class “pods” that convert to flat beds. There was a low-rise console wall that ran down, front to back, between the center seats so pass-throughs were made only through the galley in front or in Royal Silk behind us. I liked that as we had center seats, 1E,F . It was so new that, God as my witness, the flight attendants didn’t know what one of the seat buttons were for when asked. An attendant and I tried a couple together to familiarize ourselves before take off at 5:15pm. There was one button in particular who’s icon showed a plane taking off. With apprehension I pressed it to discover it was the seat’s reset button setting the seat into it’s original upright position. We brought with us the 3d (and final) box of Godiva chocolates and their graciousness was as sincere as ANA’s.

We were handed our Hermes amenities kit (fanny-pack styled), Elle Homme pj’s and slippers and settled in for the evening flight to BKK. I was particularly enjoying the touch screen tv when dinner was served but the long day was starting to get to me and I couldn’t fully enjoy any of it. The flight attendants were so friendly and attentive I wanted to keep my eyes open to partake in it all. I went to the restroom (full of Bulgari products) changed out of my slacks and into the pj pant, placed the seat in its full flat position and eventually drifted off in to a sound sleep. I have to add that the extra large pillows were incredibly soft and comfortable.

When we arrived at BKK around 10:30pm, Thai’s concierge greeted all the First Class passengers from the flight and escorted us all the way through immigration and baggage claim. Once again, I noticed that older couple from SFO waiting in a different line several rows over apparently unaware of the escort. I pointed them out to the concierge who walked over and politely invited them to join our faster moving line that was to the far right of them all.

Somehow, we endeared ourselves to the concierge. He waited with the both of us at baggage claim (2nd bags off!) and even walked me over to an ATM machine! He then escorted Mr. SFWanderer and I to Thai’s fleet of Mercedes outside the terminal, introduced us to the driver and whisked us away to our hotel.

Up to this point of the trip I was thinking, “so this is how the other half were living!”

After tipping the driver a couple of baht’s we arrived at our hotel around midnight. The Metropolitan hotel is beautiful. Very modern. Very contemporary. The staff were looking very stylish dressed in black Yoghi Yamamoto. While settling into our digs the door bell rang and in came, hand carried, a tray of hot tea. Mr. SFWanderer was all over that! By now, we were exhausted. After a quick shower and a hot bath and in spite of our excitement to be in Thailand we finally went to sleep.


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BANGKOK

The next day was going to be exciting for us. Our first full day in a city half way around the world! We were met by our tour guide, Ti, promptly at 9:00am. We sat down with him in the lobby to discuss the day and go over any special requests we might have.

At noon, we took a boat across the Chao Phraya River to have lunch at The Oriental hotel. The hotel is amazingly beautiful. It has two properties on either side of the river; the hotel on the city side and the restaurant and spa on the other. The buffet spread was nothing we had seen before. You know how pictures can’t do some things justice? Well, this is one of those cases.

Afterwards, we took a river cruise on a longtail boat. We ventured in to the canals where we took note of the poverty that most of these people live in. What was equally strange to us was seeing some very nice middle class homes cluster among the shacks. Regardless of class and economic stature they live happily (I suppose) side by side. There appears to be no such thing as living on the wrong side of town or a neighborhood being better than the next. Another great thing we noted was the enormous patriotic pride they have in their country. The national flag is flown EVERYWHERE; homes, businesses, street lights, you name it. They also have a deep, deep love for their king and the royal family. His portrait stands high in front of many public buildings and traffic intersections decorated with beautiful garlands. Homes also post his picture outside their doors. The royal crest flies on yellow flags along side the national flag. One hardly ever flies without the other.

Bangkok is famously known for its inexpensive, custom-tailored clothing. We sought out a Raja’s Fashions across from Nana’s hotel. I had read so much about it online. When we finally found him, to me, it was like meeting a celebrity. It was quite busy inside this small shop with pictures and letters on the wall from many dignitaries, embassy, and military personnel he had the privilege of fitting. Though Mr. Bobby was currently working on a another customer’s fitting he greeted us personally with a broad smile and an outstretched hand and asked who we were referred by. I told him I read about him many times on this website and was very excited to be here myself. We were offered a drink while we perused around.

There were rolls and rolls of shirt fabrics and stacks of fabrics for suits, blazers and slacks. Twelve shirts and 2 blazers later (for Mr. SFWanderer) the total cost came to just over $600!! He’ll have to return for two additional fittings before the final product is complete. My job doesn’t require dressing up so I had no use for anything in here.

The traffic in Bangkok is havoc! There’s nothing like it in the U.S. We’ll still complain about the Bay Area jamm-up but maybe not as loud as before.

By mid-afternoon on the first day, the jet-lag was taking hold. We began to drag our feet and wanting desperately to take a nap. Our day guide returned us to the hotel around 6pm and took that nap before our 9pm guide was to come and pick us up again for the night tour. It was difficult getting up at 8pm to shower and change. We really preferred to sleep more.

When 9pm came and went without any sign of our guide we decided to go to Cy’an, the hotel restaurant, for dinner. We were secretly grateful that he hadn’t shown up. We were exhausted and our eyes barely stayed open throughout the meal. We slept very well for the rest of the night.

On Sunday morning our new guide and driver for the day showed up to take us to Ayutthaya, about an hour in a half north of Bangkok. Once again, flags everywhere along the way. Just amazing!

Our first stop and what became the highlight of the trip so far (and only one day gone by) was the king’s ancient compound of Bang Pa-In that is still visited by him. Once again, the pictures don’t do it justice. It was so, so beautiful. So beautiful. The day was sunny and mild and the subtle breeze was perfect. I didn’t know at the time how this could be topped. The compound had signs of European influence and soon learned it was built by King Rama IV in the mid 19th century better known from the story, “The King and I.”

We stopped at a couple more temples known as a “wat,” along the way before we got to the ancient city of Ayutthaya. This was the former capital of Bangkok before it was ravaged and destroyed by the Burmese army in the 18th century. Thanks to careful renovation, Ayutthaya has become a foremost archaeological site and later designated a UNESCO heritage site, where crumbling buildings and Buddhas have been restored to their former glory. The ruins are scattered over 6 square miles so we had a lot of ground to cover. The history of the place overwhelmed us.

We had lunch at a great restaurant on the river frequented only by locals. We easily stood out. Mr. SFW bit into some hot peppers and his head nearly exploded! This is a Latin guy who can usually tolerate some pretty hot spices! Eventually I started to feel these same peppers emit their poison and I just about died. It took many gulps of water and heaps of rice to calm the senses. There’s no subtle way to accomplish this.

It just so happened to be the final day of a full week of the Ayutthaya World Heritage Site celebration. It commemorates the historic park’s inscription onto the list in 1981. Our timing to be here on this day was coincidental but perfect. We purchased tickets for the spectacular light show that was being performed among the ruins at 7:30pm. Performers in traditional attire re-enacted the story about how Ayutthaya was once a peaceful and beautiful place to live and the war with the Burmese who ultimately conquered and destroyed it. It was spectacular!. Once again, pictures can’t do the performance justice. Our apologies for the blurred pictures. We had set it for night picture-taking and since the shutter stays open longer the slightest movement causes it to blur. A tripod would have been nice but not practical to carry around.

On the drive back to Bangkok, Mr. SFW and I fell fast asleep in the back seat of the van feeling fully sated by the day.

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The next day, Monday 12/19, we were picked up once again for our tour around the king’s Grand Palace. Though he doesn’t officially live there as often anymore there was this wonderful feeling that he might just step out from one of these awesome, highly decorative palaces. We have never in our lives seen anything as beautiful as this complex. The palace glistened in the sun with the intricate artwork of colorful mosaics, reflecting mirrors and gold. Gold, gold, gold. I’ve been to some of the most fascinating places in Europe but the dazzling spectacle will be nothing I’ll ever forget!

I have to mention this one thing that still sticks in my craw. Before proceeding inside the compound I needed to break a large bill and went up to the window of those manned, mini cash booths. No line so it was easy to simply walk up and make my transaction. Almost immediately another person came up behind me breathing down my neck. I didn’t feel threatened but took note of the rudeness as I like my personal space when I’m conducting this type of business. Before I even had a chance to collect the money and count it this jerk throws his money into the tray and tries to bump me out. Wouldn’t you know it - The Ugly American. I bumped him right back while his cash remained in the tray. I stood there slooooowly counting. Before I walked away I made some comment I simply can’t recall.

After being mesmerized by this glorious palace, our guide took us to lunch at a fine restaurant nearby. It immediately reminded me of the restaurants back home where the older ladies of society dine to share the latest gossip and businessmen impress out of town clients. Accompanied by a pianist, a woman in her 60's was entertaining the diners. We were told she’s been singing here for many years and has become a known fixture. I believe it! She’s been here so many years they don’t have the heart to tell her she can no longer carry a note. We enjoyed the lunch but quietly I couldn’t help but smile to myself at the cliche of it all though the guide took some pride in taking us here.

Across the street from the restaurant we came upon a large sandwich sign outside a door that read, “Museum of Jade.” I remembered our time in San Jose, Costa Rica last year. Mr. SFWanderer wanted to go inside a well-known jade museum. I thought we were too pressed for time to wander in and I said, “no.” This time I was going to make that up to him. We were greeted by as many as 5 sales girls at the door and led away to a private room for a video about jade. “Uh, oh,” I thought. “This is going to be a sales pitch with no way out”as we walked pass the usual jewelry cases. Our young guide tried to quietly sneak away but I “insisted” he join us. “Come on! This will be fun if we do this together!” So, for about a half hour, we sat through a presentation and soon afterwards escorted by the store owner around the place. The “museum” turned out to be a small, yet impressive private collection upstairs.

I was going to stand firm and not be manipulated into buying anything as we were shown around the cases of beautiful jade pieces. I just kept eyeing the door hoping for an opportunity to dodge this game.

When we made our successful escape with our wallets intact, I glared at our guide. I felt he could have mentioned that our intentions to visit a museum would in fact only be a visit inside a store. There were other instances like this with him throughout the day so I was ready to dump the guide at this point. Still we remained very polite and allowed him to continue on a bit more.

Mr. SFW had an appointment with Raja’s Fashions for his first fitting at 4:30 so we figured this will be a good way to say thanks and goodbye. Mr. Bobby was once again very nice and welcoming in spite of the hectic atmosphere. After a few minutes, Bobby came back to us to say we were a bit earlier than the 6:30 appointment. Just a little misunderstanding so we said we’d return in a bit.

What to do with our guide.

We thought this would be a great opportunity to get one of those foot massages offered around the corner and asked our guide to escort us there. The experience was heaven. The one word to describe the feeling after having your feet and calves worked on for an hour. By the way, getting a massage in Thailand is about as common as McDonald’s and Burger King in NYC.

It was now about 6:00 and we figured this was a good time to tip our guide (who waited this whole time) and send him on his way. The guides are suppose to be sure we always return safely to the hotel but I told him that Mr. SFW’s fitting would take a while and we didn’t want to keep him. Ah, mission accomplished. Still we tipped him so that we could sleep well tonight.

The fitting was fun and we told Bobby we would return for our second fitting between flight connections on the 23rd when we return to Bangkok from Chiang Mai and on to Siem Reap. He said we could come in anytime since we would be at the mercy of plane delays and traffic.

We were to meet with MegatopLover tonight but we returned to the hotel too late in the evening. When we called him at the Peninsula he was very kind and understanding and said he was also exhausted having arrived from Hong Kong earlier in the day. We mutually agreed to get together again when Mr. SFW and I returned to Bangkok on New Year’s eve.

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BKK-CNX

At 6:00am the following morning we were picked up at the hotel to meet TG#102 to Chiang Mai. Our seats were Royal Executive (first class isn’t offered domestically) but I’ve read on the boards that if the plane was a 747 (ours was a 7443), first classing seating is offered upon request at check in.

Check in was quick, having no lines at the two Royal Executive desks. Giving the “wai” greeting and armed with the knowledge about the seating arrangements, I asked about getting row 2. She offered mid-section or upstairs of the plane. I gently nudged a bit further and asked about any availability between rows 1 and 4. She made a quick phone call and seats 2E and 2F were assigned to us. SCORE! It may have helped that we were dressed nicely in slacks and blazers. Would we be as successful had we’ve been in jeans? I don’t know but it doesn’t hurt to up your chances by dressing well. We were then invited to make use of the Royal Orchid Lounge over to our right.

The door to the lounge is very non-descript and we were a bit hesitant walking through. We were met by 3 agents at the desk, had our boarding passes swiped and welcomed in. The food kiosk was good but I particularly loved the small chicken rolls. Those I popped in my mouth like M&M’s! There were your assorted pasties, mini hotdog buns and beverages. Nothing special but worth munching on. Mr. SFWanderer made use of the computer terminals at the back of the lounge and I took my pictures. A couple of hours later, our flight was called and we proceeded through the back door of the lounge, walked the private hallway reserved for the privileged few, down the escalator and to the gate. We were getting bussed to our magnificent plane awaiting us on the tarmac. We proceeded up the first class ramp and introduced to their new plane with the same sleeper pods we had on the A346 from NRT. Jackpot!

The flight was just over an hour but we were still served a full, delicious breakfast of omelettes, fruit and breads. Sheesh, we’re lucking to get one cup of coffee on an LAX-SFO flight in the same amount of time (about a little over an hour). The FA’s were all so pleasant and friendly and enjoyed watching me take my pictures.

The Rachamankha had a car waiting when we arrived in Chiang Mai. While checking in, we were greeted with a glass of guava juice. While being escorted to our room, along the way we were impressed by the serenity of the place. It was a former monks monastery so it has the air of complete calm and inner peace. The room, we discovered, wasn’t ready but that wasn’t much of a surprise since we arrived a bit early. The bellman was very embarrassed but we told him it wasn’t a problem and we would take the time to acquaint ourselves with the facilities.

As the pictures can attest to, it’s very beautiful.

During our stay, we partook in a 2 hour Thai massage by the pool for a whopping total of $19 - for both of us!! We can get use to this.

We received a call from our guide about 5:00pm saying he would meet us at 8:00pm for a tour of the night market. This wasn’t expected tonight but, sure, why not. Dol was a sweet guy we took an immediate liking to.

What a market! There were hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of booths selling all sorts of things. After a while we started to see the same stuff over and over again so it’s easy to bargain down the price. Bargaining is so not us but we eventually got the hang of it that it was actually fun! Bargaining extended to the “tuk-tuk,” a 3-wheeled open air vehicle when we traveled to and from the hotel.

The following morning, Dol picked us up after breakfast to take us around Chiang Mai and the many temples here. The architecture of these temples continue to blow me away. I finally got up the nerve to take a picture of a group of student monks at a school. Well actually, I asked Dol to do it for me. It just felt so intrusive but Dol said they’re always accommodating to the tourists.

We were then brought to a silk factory where they still make fabrics by handloom. It was very fascinating that there was no way I would leave without buying something from their showroom. They treated Mr. SFW and I to coffee and home made cake after our impressive buying spree!

Mr. SFW was looking for a specific item for his sister at a local street market. Somehow, when I wasn’t paying attention, I knocked the top of my head on a low hanging bus stop. It had inverted, decorative triangles along the edge and I made hard contact. That hurt a lot! But would you believe there just happened to be a small pharmacy right there, steps away?! The blood started to really flow and the look on everyone’s face started to really worry me. What did it look like up there? They immediately opened a bottle of antiseptic, iodine and tore open a package of gauze. They were insistent on cleaning and applying it themselves and afterwards refused to take any payment!


It was the very end of the day so we were heading to the hotel anyway where I rested for the balance of the evening. That night, Mr. SFW and I wanted to go to the night market and in spite of having a band aid affixed to the top of my head and the bruised vanity that accompanied it, we had a great time.

The next day was our Elephant Safari tour in the jungles north of Chiang Mai. We wanted Dol to take us but he said he wasn’t assigned to do this with us. Our tour van was an hour and twenty minutes late and we were concerned we would be stood up as we were in Bangkok. We were surprised when we were finally met by the van containing two other couples from Taiwan and France and a couple of trainees from the tour company. We had gotten accustomed to the private guides and weren’t aware this was going to be a “joiner” tour.

The “safari” was fun but I felt like such the tourist for the first time on this trip. On the way back in to Chiang Mai we stopped at an orchid farm (very nice) and a paper mache mill where they make greeting cards and albums out of elephant dung (not so very nice). This topped it all and we were anxious to end this tour now. By the way, paper mache stationary is offered everywhere in Thailand shops and stalls so take note of its origins!

Mr. SFW was very annoyed about being a part of a “joiner.” It takes a lot to get him p.o’d. To make matters worse he learned that both couples paid half what we were charged for this tour. We sent an email to our agent in Bangkok letting him know of our displeasure.

What was awaiting us the next day, Friday 12/23, this episode only paled by comparison.


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CAMBODIA

We checked in for TG#922 to BKK at 8:30am where we would make our connection to Siem Reap, Cambodia. We were booked in a Colonial Suite at the Victoria Angkor for our Christmas holiday.

Upon checking in I was expecting to acquire the same seats we had coming up here so imagine my surprise when I was told (after the agent made the same phone call made at BKK) that it wasn’t available. How is that possible when we’re checking in nearly 2 ½ hours early? I was told that at least 5 seats were taken by “passengers in wheelchairs and an escort” but one seat was still available. And of the other 4 seats? Taken. The aircraft was going to be the 7443 version so I figured I should experience the new Royal Silk seats anyway. We completed check in and went upstairs to use their lounge. Because it was under renovation they secured a small section of a restaurant for Royal Executive passengers and Royal Orchid members. It was a bit lame so when it got very crowded we headed for the gate to wait. It wasn’t worth taking a single picture.

What a mob we came upon at the gate! Boarding time had come and gone so now the masses were crowding the podium waiting impatiently for boarding to begin. Is this going to be a repeat of the NH process at SFO? When an announcement was made in Thai, I barely noticed a gate agent holding up a small sign stating “ROYAL EXECUTIVE.” So I guess that meant for us to board. Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle through the crowd we go. “Pardon me, excuse me, excuse me, pardon me...”

The seats were extremely comfortable and angled to a full flat position. Not so bad but I’d rather be in the pods I see before me!

To my astonishment, the 5 handicapped passengers and their escort turned out to be a happy, healthy family; mom, dad and the 3 kids! Why would the ticket agent tell me such an outlandish lie? It made no sense to me. Just tell me there were no seats available and be gone with it. Why say something so ridiculous? OK, maybe they had significant Royal Orchid status. Fine, I can accept that. They’re entitled to the perks. Mr. SFWanderer told me to relax. It was only a one hour flight anyway. True, but I sat there and sulked like a child losing perspective that I paid for this type of seating anyway. Sorry folks, no pictures. I was acting like a baby at the time!

When we arrived at BKK, we had to be bussed back to the terminal. Second of several times you’ll read later on in the story.

We gave ourselves a 6 hour layover in BKK so Mr. SFW could make his second fitting at Raja’s.

We made the long walk between Terminal 2 and Terminal 1 to leave our luggage at the storage place the airport conveniently has and taxied over in the typical heavy traffic. The fitting went well, we grabbed a bite to eat and headed back to the airport. When we checked in at the Bangkok Airways counter the agent asks Mr. SFW where his visa to Cambodia was.

“Excuse me?”

The Cambodia Embassy website, everything I read and the advice from our agent was that everyone can obtain one upon arrival in Cambodia. Why was this any different? Something about his travel document (he’s an asylee in the US) being different from a US passport and a visa is required in advance. Our Christmas plans in Angkor Wat were now down the tubes and we had no place to stay for 3 days. The one time I cut a corner in preparation for this trip and didn’t take care of this little, yet important detail ahead of time. Live and Learn albeit an expensive lesson.

Stranded.

It was 4:00pm so we collected our bags, rushed to the pay phones that were very alien to us and called our agent in town. “Houston, we have a problem.”

We taxied yet again into the horrendous traffic to the agency in town. We thanked our lucky stars that at least we used one right here in Bangkok. Our agent’s connections got us a room at the Siam Heritage next door to his office. Not what we were accustomed to but it was reasonable with a bed to sleep in. Instead of looking for better accommodations for the following days we decided to just stay put.

We were headed for Phuket on Monday so we asked if we could look into taking an earlier flight for the following day (Saturday). We were told however that the hotel we would be staying was fully booked and advised to stay in Bangkok until Monday afternoon. How about an early Monday morning flight? No dice. Just have to deal with the situation.

I have to mention that as it got closer to the oney year anniversary of the tsunami disaster there was increasing coverage about it. It’ll be strange to arrive on the 26th but we hoped we could participate in the ceremonies scheduled for that day.



Next stop, Phuket and the tsunami memorial...

Buster CT1K

Amazing report! Keep it coming!

SFWanderer

Saturday morning we returned to the travel agency to check up on the possibly, once again, to get to Phuket earlier. As luck will have it, we were to grab TG#225 Christmas night and a room would be available at the hotel.

We spent Christmas day perusing around Silom and decided to hit the movies at the Siam Paragon where we were days before. We jumped on the Skytrain and took the 10 minute or so ride to get there. It’s an amazing mall. Brand new and beautiful. In all the malls in America I doubt there’s a food emporium like this here. The yet-to-be-opened high-end retailers on the 3rd floor screamed money and the stores that are available to shop in is a shop-aholic’s wet dream! Unfortunately, the movie theaters on the top floor weren’t completed so we visited the aquarium in the lower level. It was well worth seeing.

BKK-HKT

Our flight to HKT wasn’t until after 10pm but we were anxious to get moving and ended up checking in almost 3 hours early. The terminal was busy as always but luckily, it was the usual, uneventful, no waiting, check in at the Royal Executive desk and by now knew how to proceed to the lounge. We checked our email and positioned ourselves on a sofa and chair close to the television up front for the long wait. The place seemed dark and dreary which only added to the mood of the weekend. A movie I enjoy watching, “Point Of No Return”with Bridget Fonda eventually came on but midway through it the cleaning lady decided to vacuum the place. It was around 8:30-9:00 and I understood the place needed to get spruced up for the following morning but you also know after a half hour of this you’ve reached your limited when your nails begin tearing up the arm rest.

Boarding was eventually called and we took the short walk to the gate to join, yet, another bus ride to the plane. The plane was booked full. We realized how fortunate we were to get these seats. The AB6 was cramped but comfortable and we were served a light meal. Again, I’m wondering why such service isn’t available on the West Coast back home.

After all the drama we encountered thus far we were glad to finally be on our way to Phuket. A full week to rest and relax. No more temples. No more daily tours.

Baan Yin Dee will be our home a for a full week. Since we arrived a day earlier we were fortunate to be booked into a deluxe room for the night. It was so big I couldn’t imagine the size of our suite yet to come. The view of Patong Beach from up here is spectacular. We were anxious for the following morning.

It was December 26th ; after having breakfast in the restaurant, we got dressed and had the hotel’s complimentary car service drive us down to the beach for the 10am tsunami memorial ceremony. The walk along the beach to the service was a solemn one and we couldn’t help but envision from where we stood the sight of a year ago. It honestly sent chills through us both. During the ceremony of only a couple of speeches and like a tsunami itself, a wave of emotion had overtaken us. That’s all I can say for the moment about this event. I feel I have to mention the insensitivity shown by the numerous news cameras when they began to close in on the families and friends who were laying flowers on the makeshift memorial site. A very distraught woman managed to make her way to the podium and through sobs demanded they give them room to grieve and wondered why the police weren’t doing enough to control them. She mentioned the children she lost. It became too much for us to bear.

We left.

Along the way, we saw many people casting flowers and garlands off in to the sea. That evening hundreds of candlelit lanterns were sent airborne from the beach and gently carried away in to the night sky like little glowing angels. I still choke when I recall it.

We returned to hotel to lounge by the pool and compose ourselves and counting on this kind of relaxation for the rest of the week. There are two pools that are connected by cascades of water of two smaller pools between them. Around 1:00pm the hotel was ready to relocate us to the Senior Suite. The room simply took our breath away. It’s great to step out onto our balconies and look upon all of Patong Beach. Our thoughts took us to what it might have looked from up here this day of last year.

The rest of the week consisted of walking along Patong Beach with the sea as warm as bath water or sunning by the refreshing coolness of the pool. Along the streets of Patong are many rows of open stalls (booths? stores?) selling all sorts of wares; tee shirts, souvenirs, food; you name it. Several low-rise hotels line the main street. When we came upon the Holiday Inn we thought we read the sign incorrectly because it was stunning! Actually, quite very nice! It’s conveniently located with the beach and ocean directly across the street. If anyone is budget conscience, you might want to consider looking into this further.

Patong Beach is not a pretty little resort town. It’s something of a small-size version of Waikiki Beach. It’s not unattractive, just not pretty. Walking around before noon guaranteed you a leisurely stroll but by mid-day it’s hectic and frenzied. At the beach, you’re laying elbow to elbow with your neighbor. Knowing this, you can’t even begin to imagine the “fortunate” timing the tsunami hitting at the early hour it did.

Night time was party time and every one is out for a great time. The evenings were much cooler which allowed everyone to open up and cut loose.

What I particularly loved, though, was the international pool of nationalities in this one small area. It was utterly fascinating and enjoyable. Thousands of different reasons for being here; hundreds of different cultures; dozens of people we met; and the two of us brought here to experience it all.

The natural beauty lies on the islands in the Andaman Sea. We took a speed boat tour that included 16 tourists from Israel, Singapore, Austria, England, Japan and the U.S. There was also a young couple from San Francisco! 5,000 miles and 19 hours from home and we meet our neighbors.

One of the islands we were anxious to see was Phi Phi Island (Koh Phi Phi). As we approached it look like one of those small atolls with a village of natives on the beach to greet us. It wasn’t until our guide told us of the devastation it encountered last year that the mood suddenly changed. We took lunch on the beach under a thatched palapas and took a walk around afterwards. We stumbled upon a banyan tree besides the beach on the opposite side of the island dressed in a makeshift memorial during the anniversary a couple of days before. Once again, we became very sad and began to choke up at the pictures left behind. The irony of beauty and loss was over-powering. The romantic portion of this trip was lost.

No vehicles on the island but many more booths. We thought we left these behind on Patong but we simply figured these people had to make a living and tourism being the thing how else were they to make it?

We have no regrets planning our vacation around this anniversary. It was purely coincidental but we were honored and moved to partake in memorializing a catastrophic event that affected so many lives.

By the end of the week, we realized that going home wasn’t such a bad thing. We were ready but we were leaving Thailand with one last bang. New Year’s Eve was fast approaching!

On 12/31, as the hotel was preparing for the night’s festivities we checked out and headed for the airport to return to The Metropolitan for our final night in Thailand.

***************************************

HKT-BKK

The line outside the small terminal was very long as we waited to pass through first security check. A bus load of well-tanned tourists unloaded shortly afterwards to create an even longer line. As the group took their place at the end, a couple with a large cart load of luggage maneuvered themselves next to me just feet from the front door thinking they were going to cut their way in. “You’ve got to be kidding buddy,” I thought as I squeezed them out before getting to the x-ray machines at the door. They knew what they were doing and they knew exactly what I was doing. We’ve already been here waiting patiently for about 20 minutes! Call me the ugly American, but dang it, fair is fair.

Having past through security, a quick check in and with boarding passes in hand, we sauntered over to the Royal Orchid lounge. It was small and intimate and no one had yet come to the room. There’s a small desk just inside and to the right where we showed our passes. We found our seats and picked at the impressive food bar (for its size), grabbed a soft drink and took in some more email time at the lone terminal. I was later happy to have made use of it as a kid later planted himself in front of it and began playing games.

After about an hour or so we got up and decided to take the walk to the far end of the terminal where our gate was. It appeared that this brought about some members of the herd to do the same. The line of coach passengers at the gate was fairly long. There was, however, no line of any kind behind the small sign that read, “Royal Executive”. There was a hesitation from the few us for a moment. Like finding an available register of a supermarket when all others are busy. OK, what’s wrong with this picture. Someone took the initiative and we took our places in the newly-formed line.

TG#222 was ready for boarding and she was a beautiful thing, a 7442. Seat 4A,B were very soft and cozy. Yes, we managed to get the FC cabin again! Though the seats didn’t recline to flat bed, this aircraft would have been all right by me if we had to fly it all the way to NRT. I still can’t say enough about the TG’s flight crew. So far, every step of the way on every flight, they’ve been so pleasant and attentive. Though just another short flight to BKK, the crew takes care of you nearly every minute of it.

Having flown Royal Executive throughout Thailand I have to recommend this highly to everyone. There’s been chatter on FT whether it’s worth the little extra money. Folks, go for it! The experience means expedited check ins, lounge use away from the crowds (always a crowd) and quick priority boarding. And if you’re lucky, FC seating on the 744! I’m all for the prestige status and comfort factor.

When we arrived at BKK, we were once again parked at the international terminal. We deplaned down the portable stairs and bussed back to the far end where the domestic terminal was. This bus-thing was getting annoying.

While at the HKT airport, I read an email I received from RChavez saying he heard I’d be in BKK on NYE’s and hoped we’d get together. The Metropolitan was hosting a NYE’s celebration so as he had tentative plans to be at this event. I jumped on the idea of meeting him and excited to hook up that evening. At about 11pm, he and his roommate joined us at the back bar where you would usually find the reception desk. After our first cocktail together, we popped up to our room to polished off the fine bottle of Moet Chandon they kindly brought. Drinks flowed throughout the evening and at midnight fireworks exploded at the gate entrance of the hotel. We had a great time. RChavez helped complete our vacation in Thailand with a blast. We hope some of you have the wonderful opportunity to meet him.

*************************************

BKK-ICN

Our first of two flights back to SFO, TG#658 to ICN, wasn’t to leave until almost midnight so we kept our room at the Met until 6pm. We decided to try to take in a movie but, once again, our timing was off and simply partook in last minute shopping at the Siam Paragon. By 4pm we were anxious to begin our long journey home and by 5pm we were checked out and waiting in the lobby for our scheduled van pick-up. Unfortunately, you do not get free limousine service as a Royal Silk passenger but still available for a fee.

The toll-highway was very light in traffic and we got to the airport in only about a half hour. We had our VAT refund paperwork processed and proceeded to the Royal Silk ticket counter. As usual, never a wait. We’ve always managed to simply walk right up to the counter every time with TG. Our luggage was checked through to SFO but we were informed we would have to collect our UA first class boarding passes at ICN.

Passport control was conveniently located to our immediate left. After feeding the machine our $25 fee (each), our receipt for this collected by passport control, and our VAT refunded we searched for the new Royal Orchid lounge at gate 31 I’ve made note of through the boards.

To be sure I had come to the right place I simply asked, before walking through, if this lounge had two floors. Though we were flying Royal Silk on Thai on the initial flight, our later connections in first class allowed us, on this leg of the journey, access into their first class lounge upstairs. There’s been discussion about this on the boards and I can vouch for the fact that you do indeed have access.

It’s so beautiful. It was certainly nothing like the lounge in the domestic terminal. There’s an air about the place. The pictures I took seem dull and lifeless and doesn’t show the brilliant colors of the silk pillows and art work hanging on the walls. The lower, L-shaped lounge caters to Royal Silk. and other business class passengers and seemed quiet enough to relax. A nice size banquet of food and drinks were to the right and comfortable seating to the left.

We found the stairs in the corner to right of the upside-down “L.” No one was at the desk at the top of the stairs to greet us so anyone could have wandered up here (not that I cared). The upstairs is enormous and roomy! Very high ceilings and cozy seating arrangements throughout. I believe the room is lit mostly by natural sunlight from the windows high up but the sun had long since gone down and lighting was a low. It added to the ambiance. We had about 4 hours before departure so we hunkered down for the long wait.

Around 11:00pm, we decided to leave for the gate. They weren’t making announcements in the lounge so you had to be aware of your time. When we approached the gate(s) my heart sank for two reasons. One, there was an escalator to take us down which meant, drum roll please, we were getting bussed - AGAIN. Ladies and gentlemen, I ask you, what is it with this place?? The new airport couldn’t happen soon enough! And two, we were met by an immense crowd standing around waiting for security (crowd control) to slowly allow them to proceed through the double doors and onward to the security check point. After passing through we had to choose one of two very, very long lines through security check. There were several flights departing at the same time down here. Twenty minutes till departure and this wasn’t looking good. That greyhound bus better still be waiting for us on the other end! We’re Royal Silk’s for pete’s sake!!

Inching along we finally made it to the gate and our waiting 333.

To our amazement, there were only 6 of us up front! Roominess wasn’t going to be an issue though the cabin was roomy enough. We had accumulated enough amenity kits by now that I had to insist that Mr. SFW not accept any more. Our bags were stuffed to the gills so the precision and care I placed (tongue in cheek) in getting everything inside couldn’t accommodate one more.

Within the hour we were offered:

Cold Cuts, Sushi

Assorted Pralines

Tea, Coffee

*****

Fruit Juice
Fresh Fruits and Fruit Yogurt

Main Course

Fried Siam Perch with Soya Bean Sauce, Steamed Thai Hom Mali Rice
Oriental Mixed Vegetables

or

Spanish Omelet, Chicken Patty, Vegetables

Roll, Croissant, Butter, Jam

Tea, Coffee, Ovaltine

***

Instant Noodle Soup, available upon request

We snoozed on and off during this uneventful flight. The service was as good as all the others but we were two very tired guys and didn’t need to be pampered anymore than we were.

**************************************

ICN-NRT

We landed smoothly around 7:00am and welcomed into a fairly quiet terminal. We’ve never flown before when we still needed to obtain boarding passes for our continuing flights so we were a bit lost. It was hours before the United gate would open and there was no connection desk for UA passengers to utilize (at least none that I was aware of).

We almost had a problem getting through one of the security check points that would allow us to go from the level where we disembarked and turned in our agriculture declaration to the upper level of the terminal to make use of the Singapore Airlines lounge. They wanted to see our boarding passes and had to explained to them that the UA gate was still closed. I showed them our printed UA itinerary from the website I was very fortunate to keep on hand and the stubs from the previous flight. After conferring amongst themselves it seemed to have been enough and we proceeded up the escalator in search of a shower.

When I entered the lounge I was concerned we would encounter the same problem without these FC boarding passes but this little piece of paper that got me up here was sufficient enough with the lovely receptionist.

We were shown to the elevator that brought us directly to the First Class area and, as the doors opened, into the hands of another Singapore girl waiting to greet us. We were escorted to the large shower rooms where we showered and changed.

The lounge is lovely and quite comfortable. Upon entering, there are 3 business stations to the right, a large-screen television showing the news to the front and a small banquet of Japanese tastings and assorted drinks to the left behind you. I particularly loved the refrigerator stocked with little containers of Haagen Daz! To the right of the banquet you find those generous-sized shower/changing rooms.

At this early hour we again had sole use of the lounge. Mr. SFW discovered an enclosed niche with two comfortable chaise to snooze on/in. It included an alarm so you’re never in fear of over-sleeping. He needed to catch some shut-eye so off he went. I, of course, set out for some picture taking. Once again, I’m sorry for some of the blurred pictures. I don’t know what the deal is but I think I’m prone to the shakes when I don’t get enough sleep myself.

The lounge as a whole is enormous!!! It snakes around to both sides of this terminal. On the one side you have First Class. From here, you walk pass reception on your right, more seating on your left, a large liquor bar down the hall and on the right (closed at this hour). At this point you turn left, walk down a breeze way with wonderful pieces of artwork and come around to the opposite side. Make a left and you’ll come upon the lounge for Raffles Class. By comparison to the intimate feel on the FC side, this area was pretty expansive allowing to accommodate the larger number of passengers that pass through here. Where it was just Mr. SFW and I, over here it was pretty busy.

Hanging in the FC lounge was “so choice” and I would highly recommend it to anyone passing through ICN.

About 2 ½ hours later and after polishing off several Haagen Daz’s, read the paper, watched a little bit of the news and filling out a customer service card the receptionist had just handed me, Mr. SFW arose from the dead.

We figured we should begin to make our way to the gate to get our boarding passes but before we did we walked around this beautiful terminal. It’s big and airy. Very white and clean. There were many stores but it seemed that DFS (I think it was) dominated every where. For you shoppers, you don’t shop and compare here. What’s in one store at a price is duplicated at least a dozen other times. So if you see “it” just buy it and save yourself the walk. We spent more time trying to find the perfect last minute gift for someone we simply forgot about that we could have knocked 20 minutes off the search if we bought from the first or second store we went into.

The gate for UA#838 had quite a few seated passengers. There was only one passenger at the podium in the process of obtaining an upgrade to business. After 5 excruciating minutes (kidding), we finally stepped up and acquired the elusive passes.

Boarding was orderly and we took our companion seats 3E,F on this 777. I already knew we were going to be the only FC passengers so I was ready to receive their undivided attention on this flight. The suites were nice but we wouldn’t make much use of it on this 2 hour flight. Assigning ourselves these seats gave a very open, roomy feeling to the cabin and 1E,F looked too close to the front. The companion seats are spread apart just so you don’t feel like you’re on top of the guy next to you. I’d recommend these seats to single travelers as well if the load is light.

For those business class passengers, row 9 seems to be a mini cabin all it’s own. Very intimate looking. I think row 8 occupies just the center seats but still very nice!

While passengers were still boarding I was entertaining myself with the FA’s to and fro’s of preflight preparations when I overheard the pilot innocently ask the purser how the stock for water was (I assumed the bottles of water for the cockpit crew). She turned and walked away answering curtly, “I don’t know.” He stood there for a moment until he asked another FA. I was embarrassed for him and said to Mr. SFW, “my god, if she’s that rude to the captain, how is she going to be with the passengers?” and begged she wouldn’t be working our cabin. (Luck will have it she worked somewhere in back).

We kept our champagne glasses filled throughout and ate the light snack presented before us. I kept rehashing in my mind the negative comments I read about UA service on these flights and how it doesn’t live up to the service of Asian-flagged carriers we’ve experienced so I was a bit on edge and waiting for another incident like the one before. I’m happy to report that the short duration negated any time to make this an unpleasant flight and the FA we did have was as pleasant as possible.

***********************************

NRT-SFO

It was January 2nd and we were half way home with one final leg of this 25 hour journey. We simply couldn’t imagine taking this trip any other way but first class. If you have the money or the miles it’s the way to go. Sometimes we felt mountains moved and waters parted every step of the way. Are we demanding? Not at all. Do we expect a lot? Not really. Do we wish to be treated well and respected? Absolutely!

Upon landing we immediately headed for the famous RCC. Could a lounge be any bigger? I thought the SQ lounge was expansive. This was a treat.

We proceeded to the glass-enclosed elevators just ahead of the front door to the FC area. There was some resemblance to SFO but I particularly enjoyed the perfect, unobstructed view of the runway as planes landed in the drizzling rain.

Actually, directly across the runway was the fire station and flashing lights before it. Are we expecting something serious here? After 4 planes touched down an AA 767 came in and the trucks running after it down the runway.

Several others in the lounge were standing and taking notice. I’m ashamed to admit that I had my camera ready in hand. It stopped at the very end and positioned itself. After about 10 minutes and no movement we all lost interest. Again with shame I say it was a little anti-climatic BUT NOT that I was looking to witness something horrendous folks!

Well, I was off to take some pictures. Mr. SFW rolled his eyes and I was gone.

The food area was fairly generous but I particularly loved the selection of beer and soft drinks that were offered. I got to experience the beer dispenser I heard so much about but I didn’t dream of trying to stick the beer mug under the soft drink dispenser I read somebody else having done. It was pretty busy up here but nothing prepared me for what lay downstairs.

The business class lounge was so big it was almost out of hand (in a good way) but was particularly nice were the beautiful pieces of artwork throughout. Nowhere near as many or as interesting upstairs. If you really took the time to notice it would be well worth inspecting. Did I mention how very, very busy it was down here?

The lounge looked as if it had all the same amenities but in “bulk.” I think the only real difference the FC lounge has going for it is the intimacy. I’m sure if I had the opportunity to pass through here often as some you I might see the differences better.

I was getting antsy to leave after about an hour or so and gathered our things to head for the gate. UA #852 was scheduled to leave on time at 5:00pm. The gate looked like it was going to be a full flight in the back but we had cushy companion seats 4E,F. Great suites for couples; nothing in front of you but the cheese spread! But I’m jumping ahead a bit.

It wasn’t long before they were going to begin boarding so we stood off to the side and waited about 15 minutes. As in Chiang Mai, first and business classes were called while simultaneously raising a sign reading as such. We were going home! We proceeded down the jetway, stepped over the threshold of the aircraft, greeted by 2 FA’s and made that delightful left turn. I threw my things down and immediately began taking my pictures before anyone else came in though there was one other passenger already seated in 2A. I felt like a dork only because the gentleman got up to make his video selections at the center console and abruptly stepped back and out of the picture. You might even see his left shoulder/arm in one of the pictures.

A really nice FA thought my picture-taking was too cute and insisted she take ours. She stayed with us during the boarding process to chat; asked about our trip, where home was, stuff like that. I really enjoyed her interest and warmth so I was very disappointed when I didn’t see her again afterwards. It was only until we arrived at SFO did she return to welcome us home and say goodbye.

I made a couple of video selections (only to fall asleep and not view either of them; my apologies to anyone wanting to view what I ended up squandering), took our customary pre-flight glasses of champagne and prepared our little space for the next 11 hours.

What was to be 7 passengers today added up to be completely full when the doors closed.

Still feeling a little guarded and contemplating the type of service we were going to receive I was being very unfair and looking for any little misstep. So I have to say the service was good and generally attentive but certainly not bordering on indifference. During dinner service, the flash of the camera went off when taking a food shot and startled the FA serving a passenger up front in the dimly lit cabin. Yes, I think I got a “look.” Oops! Dork passenger in seat 4E. I neglected to snag the menu so I don’t have the selection of fine food to share with you.

I never got up to walk around because I slept well throughout most of the flight. I didn’t experience the boxed-in feeling I read these suites manage to make you feel. I slept very soundly.


**************************************

SFO ARRIVALS

After all that flying we arrived on the morning of January 2nd and thrilled to recoup an entire day.

Though we were given invitations to utilize the United Arrivals Suite we were anxious to get home and skipped the last of our first class perks. After every re-entry into the U.S. Mr.SFW’s travel document always sends him to the immigration office for further interrogation before allowing his book to be stamped. There’s that awful sense of anxiety we experience every time.

Sometimes it takes a while so I went ahead to the carousels to collect our baggage. After 45 minutes our bags still hadn’t come off though it seemed every other passenger received theirs. Unlike our experiences in Asia, Priority tags mean absolutely nothing here. Mr. SFW eventually found his way through the very crowded room and located me, by now frustrated, having only pulled one of three bags from the belt. Thankfully, it was the larger one with all our purchases for family and friends. This was more important to me than our clothes.

Earlier on the flight, while filling out our customs form, I had a sudden realization that 90% of our purchases were on one credit card (1% conversion fee) and we’d get stuck with duty so we were very apprehensive upon our arrival.

Pushing an hour and having all bags in tow we held our breath as we walked over to the officer who determines who gets the losing number and have their belongings torn through and who wins and gets to go home immediately.

“Happy New Year!” we said gleefully as we bounded for the doors.

doctajay

SFWanderer -
How did your jackets turn out from Raja's? I am on the fence between Raja's and Rajawongse on my trip later in the month.

Also - would you recommend the driver you used for your Ayutthaya? I am making my fifth tour of LOS and am planning on getting up to Ayutthaya this trip. Do you mind me asking your costs for the daytrip?

Great report!

SFWanderer

We were extremely satisfied with Raja's work. Mr. SFW's size is difficult to find off the rack but the results here were amazing. Since he keeps your measurements on file, we'll email him for additional clothing to be made later in the year. I failed to mention that while we were in HKT he made sure the clothing was delivered and waiting at the Metropolitan upon our arrival on the 31st. That's customer service.

The tours were informative however we learned later in the trip that we were seriously overcharged by our travel agent. Unfortunately I'll have to pass this question for a recommendation on to others.

SMART51

Excellent trip report,and the picthures looked great.Enjoyed reading it.Well done ^

bowdenj

Fantastic photos! Fantastic trip report.

fumitani

Great Trip Report ^

BTW how much did this trip cost you in total?

sobore

Thank you for a great report! Nice photos too!

flying chicken

An excellent report. I love Bangkok...

Doctajay, I have suits and shirts from Rajawongse and have been nothing but happy with the service and quality of them. they will even throw in a few free silk ties with your purchase. i am getting ready to order more shirts from their website.

olafman

Nice Trip Report! It looks like you guys had fun!

SFWanderer

Thank you all for the compliments!

We really did have an amazing time and now talk about how much we miss Bangkok. I think this might be the first of many visits.

Raja's threw in several free silk ties as well but this is not to discount Rajawongse's services. This might simply make it more difficult for doctajay to decide!

I travelled on an award tkt between the U.S. and Thailand but we paid for Mr. SFWanderer's. It was certainly in the 5 digit range but well worth it for us.

rick253

Great trip report. I think it was highly likely the 5 passengers in Chiang Mai
were politicians or some other officials, and Thai staff are perhaps not permitted to tell you this.

sftrvlr

What a fabulous report! Thank you for sharing. I remember how excited I was when I traveled in First Class for the first time. I'm still thrilled by it today. There is nothing quite like the feeling of stepping off an airplane on the other side of the world, is there? Especially when you travel in luxury.

Thailand holds a very special place in my heart and I visit at least once a year. Your account of December 26th brings tears to my eyes. One of the reasons I return year after year is the genuine warmth and hospitality of the people, and I've made an effort lately to spend my money in areas that were affected by the tsunami.

Thank again for taking the time to write the report.

neuro0

I'm with you, SFWanderer. Status, comfort and travels in style