After many offline hours I've finally completed my first travel report. It's very lengthy for most reports but I truly hope you enjoy it.

SFO-NRT

Well, Mr. SFWanderer and I finally made it to Thailand. The journey began on 12/15/05 when we took BART from San Francisco at around 7:30am to SFO. It was easier and cost efficient as we would be gone for 2 weeks and didn’t want to leave our car in long-term parking. Without delay we were checked in at the first class counter of ANA #008 (NH) for our 11:00am flight. I asked if there was an outside chance whether a representative could meet our flight at NRT and escort us to the first class lounge but the agent, instead of laughing at the absurdity, gracefully stated that I could ask anyone for assistance when we arrived and included a lounge information map in our ticket jacket. She processed us straight through to our connection with Thai #677 (TG) and we proceeded to security. It only took me three minutes to breeze through it but somehow Mr. SFW got maneuvered behind a large family and didn’t emerge for another 10 minutes.

I immediately took notice of the entrance to the RCC that was to the immediate right and began to toe tap the floor as I was very anxious to go inside. I grabbed the digital to begin my photo diary of my trip with Flyertalk very much in mind and discovered to my dismay that the battery was dead! I knew I could recharge it inside but I wasn’t sure how quickly it would take to get it going again.

In 10 minute intervals I’d unplug it to get as many pictures as possible before it went dead again so I apologize in advance for some of the blurred photos.

There was no line to enter the RCC so the agent wasn’t yet frazzled and welcomed us in warmly. He took note that Mr. SFW’s FF number wasn’t on the ticket and quickly took care of it. We took the escalator up and upon reaching the top were immediately impressed by the sheer size of this room. It was still early so there were very few passengers in here. We were particularly impressed by the bar (though too early to fully partake of its inventory) at the far eastern end. We helped ourselves to the little tidbits of food and juice to tie ourselves over for awhile and began working on the Christmas cards I had yet to complete, occasionally stopping to walk around and take another snapshot or two.

Before leaving for the First Class Lounge further down the terminal, I dropped off the small stack of addressed cards with one of the 3 agents at the desk who happily received them to be mailed. We wished them a Merry Christmas and left a large box of Godiva chocolates to enjoy. Ah, you should have seen the look! Spreading Xmas cheer is always so much fun!!

When entering the international first class lounge we were immediately checked in at the small desk by one of two agents and were pointed to the elevator 3 steps away to take us to the lower level. People of the flying community, I tell you, it simply took our breath away! “Old world elegance” came to mind. Wrought iron lacing, neutral tones, dramatic chandeliers and a quiet hush embraced you. Compared to the RCC we just arrived from, this room is small and intimate where only the privileged few get to experience. We had our choice of papers to read; Financial Times, WSJ, SF Chronicle, NY Times, USA Today and assorted Japanese-language editions. Our snack selection included fruit, cereal, freshly baked cookies, macaroons, brownies and pastries. Beer was on ice and of course, soft drinks and coffee were available.

Sometimes I felt you needed to speak hushed voices.

Though I was loving the ambiance, after an hour it was time to join our flight.

We proceeded down to the gate and waited for first calling. When the first announcement was made (in Japanese) most got up en masse so we knew it was time to go. Who knew if it was called by class, however, it didn’t matter whether you sat in row 1 or row 50, everyone proceeded through one of two doors that merged onto one jetway. Oh well, big deal, we were sitting in seats 2E,K for the next 11 hours!

Most of the 10 first class passengers were settling in so I felt a little self-conscience taking pictures though I wasn’t sure the battery was even charged enough to do so. When the flight attendant came to take our blazers we handed to her our 2nd box of Godiva chocolates. She was confused and didn’t know what to make of it. When I nudged further to accept it as our gift to her she was as happy as the crew in the RCC room.

Shortly afterwards, she returned with a basket of amenities for us to select from and to be stashed in a handsome leather zip case. It wasn’t impressive but the bags later came in handy to hold our assorted PC and digital camera hardware.

The service included lunch with an extensive wine & beverage menu. Mr. SFW’s appetite for unique fare is a bit more daring than mine. He wanted to experience authentic Japanese cuisine where I settled for a more Western taste.

The Kaiseki course:

Zensai
Salmon-cheese roulade Marinated herring roe Unagi galantine
Salt-grilled shishamo smelt Sweet egg terrine Sweet chestnuts

Nimonowan
Duck breast, ponded rice cake and seasonal vegetables in hot seafood stock

Oshinogi
Our selection of sushi

Mushimono
Stemed prawn and pumpkin bun with rich seafood broth

Kobachi
Healthy unohan salad

Shusai
Buri Teriyaki
Konnyaku braised in light soy sauce
Assortment of grilled vegatables

Steamed rice, miso soup and assorted pickles

Dessert
your choice of the following

Ice cream medley
Lemon mousse cake with almond tuile
Warm pecan tart with vanilla ice cream

Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

Green tea, roasted tea
Wagashi
Toraya “Shin-midori” yokan



A la carte

Light, easy, uncomplicated dining. Choose the dishes that catch your imagination and each will be plated on board, producing a freshness and taste not unlike a fine restaurant dining experience. Naturally, we also offer a tempting range of fine wine and sake for your consideration.

Oscietra caviar with traditional garnish
Lobster, crab and ecrevisse salad with mustard vianigrett
Warm escargots ragout in Roquefort sauce on potato pancakes

Fresh garden salad with Japanese dressing
Turkey breast salad with walnut vinaigrette

Pan-fried beef tenderloin with Fontina and tarragon sauce

Pan-roasted sole Normandy

Pan-fried medallions of winter veenison with red wine vinegar reduction

Lettuce-wrapped mushroom risotto with tomato marinara


Selection of breads with a choice of dairy butter or extra-virgin olive oil


Ice cream medley
Lemon mousse cake with almond tuile
Warm pecan tart with vanilla ice cream
Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

I was always washing this down with the Krug Grande Cuvee however he was quite content with the selection of saki offered.

The food menu was extensive but the Wine and Beverage menu had a selection you see in the finest restaurants! Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis, a Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Shiraz. Also, there were 5 brands of sake, numerous brands of aperitifs, whiskies, spirits, brandy, liqueurs, port wine, beer, soft drinks, assorted teas and coffee(s) and 3 types of Japanese tea. Whew!

I couldn’t get much sleep simply because of the sheer excitement of finally going to Thailand. The 777 wasn’t equipped with the new style first class but the seats were quite comfortable and the service impeccable. I wanted to get the most out of it. Looking around the cabin I realized that there were 16 overhead bins for 12 passengers (again, only 10 today).

One of the details I took special notice was the FC bathroom. It was huge! It was also so clean the chrome was polished to a high brilliance. I took this moment getting up to walk to the back of the plane to stretch a bit. While returning to my seat, I was amused by the somewhat alarmed look of one of the attendants outside the galley as I approached the curtain to first class. She touched the arm of another attendant. Shoulder to shoulder, big smiles, and an obvious stance that I was to go no further I was asked if there was anything I needed. I don’t know why but I thought it was very cute and amusing to me. Being up front means you’re truly untouchable from the rest. How obscene!

Upon final approach, our flight attendant and purser came around to thank everyone personally for flying with them. They came to us and gave us a special thank you “on behalf of the entire crew and flight deck” for the delicious candy they all shared. If you’re still reading, think about doing this on your next flight. The delight you create is a great feeling!

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NRT-BKK

When we arrived at NRT and passed through security check just outside the jetway we entered the first lounge we saw (Club ANA) to our right. It appeared very busy inside. I showed them our boarding passes for our connection with TG and asked where we could locate the FC lounge. Immediately we were personally escorted upstairs to their lounge. A very nice touch.

The lounge is very small and simple. Nothing much about it other than making use of it as a quiet zone. I took this moment to charge the camera again and download some of the pictures I had taken at SFO in to the computer. A couple of glasses of white wine and some snacks were enough for us during the two hour layover. The lounge had a handful of passengers including an older couple from our flight that I first took notice in the FC lounge at SFO.

While in the lounge having our drinks a representative from Thai Airways came by to offer their limousine service to our hotel upon our arrival in Bangkok. I wondered how they knew where to locate us. We could have been shopping the terminal or sitting at the gate. I was very impressed! I thought to myself, “I think that would be all right,” but said “that would be wonderful, thank you.” She said she would return to escort us to the plane when it was time.

Later, as it was getting pretty close to that time, we were feeling a little anxious when we saw no sign of this escort. We thought she had forgotten and about 15 minutes before departure we decided to go it alone. Along the way, she came upon us and took us the rest of the way. We felt like VIP’s as it was obvious to others we were getting this escort. It’s a very special feeling, folks. Very choice!

TG#677 was Thai’s brand new A346 (sorry, I have no pics again) with eight First Class “pods” that convert to flat beds. There was a low-rise console wall that ran down, front to back, between the center seats so pass-throughs were made only through the galley in front or in Royal Silk behind us. I liked that as we had center seats, 1E,F . It was so new that, God as my witness, the flight attendants didn’t know what one of the seat buttons were for when asked. An attendant and I tried a couple together to familiarize ourselves before take off at 5:15pm. There was one button in particular who’s icon showed a plane taking off. With apprehension I pressed it to discover it was the seat’s reset button setting the seat into it’s original upright position. We brought with us the 3d (and final) box of Godiva chocolates and their graciousness was as sincere as ANA’s.

We were handed our Hermes amenities kit (fanny-pack styled), Elle Homme pj’s and slippers and settled in for the evening flight to BKK. I was particularly enjoying the touch screen tv when dinner was served but the long day was starting to get to me and I couldn’t fully enjoy any of it. The flight attendants were so friendly and attentive I wanted to keep my eyes open to partake in it all. I went to the restroom (full of Bulgari products) changed out of my slacks and into the pj pant, placed the seat in its full flat position and eventually drifted off in to a sound sleep. I have to add that the extra large pillows were incredibly soft and comfortable.

When we arrived at BKK around 10:30pm, Thai’s concierge greeted all the First Class passengers from the flight and escorted us all the way through immigration and baggage claim. Once again, I noticed that older couple from SFO waiting in a different line several rows over apparently unaware of the escort. I pointed them out to the concierge who walked over and politely invited them to join our faster moving line that was to the far right of them all.

Somehow, we endeared ourselves to the concierge. He waited with the both of us at baggage claim (2nd bags off!) and even walked me over to an ATM machine! He then escorted Mr. SFWanderer and I to Thai’s fleet of Mercedes outside the terminal, introduced us to the driver and whisked us away to our hotel.

Up to this point of the trip I was thinking, “so this is how the other half were living!”

After tipping the driver a couple of baht’s we arrived at our hotel around midnight. The Metropolitan hotel is beautiful. Very modern. Very contemporary. The staff were looking very stylish dressed in black Yoghi Yamamoto. While settling into our digs the door bell rang and in came, hand carried, a tray of hot tea. Mr. SFWanderer was all over that! By now, we were exhausted. After a quick shower and a hot bath and in spite of our excitement to be in Thailand we finally went to sleep.


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BANGKOK

The next day was going to be exciting for us. Our first full day in a city half way around the world! We were met by our tour guide, Ti, promptly at 9:00am. We sat down with him in the lobby to discuss the day and go over any special requests we might have.

At noon, we took a boat across the Chao Phraya River to have lunch at The Oriental hotel. The hotel is amazingly beautiful. It has two properties on either side of the river; the hotel on the city side and the restaurant and spa on the other. The buffet spread was nothing we had seen before. You know how pictures can’t do some things justice? Well, this is one of those cases.

Afterwards, we took a river cruise on a longtail boat. We ventured in to the canals where we took note of the poverty that most of these people live in. What was equally strange to us was seeing some very nice middle class homes cluster among the shacks. Regardless of class and economic stature they live happily (I suppose) side by side. There appears to be no such thing as living on the wrong side of town or a neighborhood being better than the next. Another great thing we noted was the enormous patriotic pride they have in their country. The national flag is flown EVERYWHERE; homes, businesses, street lights, you name it. They also have a deep, deep love for their king and the royal family. His portrait stands high in front of many public buildings and traffic intersections decorated with beautiful garlands. Homes also post his picture outside their doors. The royal crest flies on yellow flags along side the national flag. One hardly ever flies without the other.

Bangkok is famously known for its inexpensive, custom-tailored clothing. We sought out a Raja’s Fashions across from Nana’s hotel. I had read so much about it online. When we finally found him, to me, it was like meeting a celebrity. It was quite busy inside this small shop with pictures and letters on the wall from many dignitaries, embassy, and military personnel he had the privilege of fitting. Though Mr. Bobby was currently working on a another customer’s fitting he greeted us personally with a broad smile and an outstretched hand and asked who we were referred by. I told him I read about him many times on this website and was very excited to be here myself. We were offered a drink while we perused around.

There were rolls and rolls of shirt fabrics and stacks of fabrics for suits, blazers and slacks. Twelve shirts and 2 blazers later (for Mr. SFWanderer) the total cost came to just over $600!! He’ll have to return for two additional fittings before the final product is complete. My job doesn’t require dressing up so I had no use for anything in here.

The traffic in Bangkok is havoc! There’s nothing like it in the U.S. We’ll still complain about the Bay Area jamm-up but maybe not as loud as before.

By mid-afternoon on the first day, the jet-lag was taking hold. We began to drag our feet and wanting desperately to take a nap. Our day guide returned us to the hotel around 6pm and took that nap before our 9pm guide was to come and pick us up again for the night tour. It was difficult getting up at 8pm to shower and change. We really preferred to sleep more.

When 9pm came and went without any sign of our guide we decided to go to Cy’an, the hotel restaurant, for dinner. We were secretly grateful that he hadn’t shown up. We were exhausted and our eyes barely stayed open throughout the meal. We slept very well for the rest of the night.

On Sunday morning our new guide and driver for the day showed up to take us to Ayutthaya, about an hour in a half north of Bangkok. Once again, flags everywhere along the way. Just amazing!

Our first stop and what became the highlight of the trip so far (and only one day gone by) was the king’s ancient compound of Bang Pa-In that is still visited by him. Once again, the pictures don’t do it justice. It was so, so beautiful. So beautiful. The day was sunny and mild and the subtle breeze was perfect. I didn’t know at the time how this could be topped. The compound had signs of European influence and soon learned it was built by King Rama IV in the mid 19th century better known from the story, “The King and I.”

We stopped at a couple more temples known as a “wat,” along the way before we got to the ancient city of Ayutthaya. This was the former capital of Bangkok before it was ravaged and destroyed by the Burmese army in the 18th century. Thanks to careful renovation, Ayutthaya has become a foremost archaeological site and later designated a UNESCO heritage site, where crumbling buildings and Buddhas have been restored to their former glory. The ruins are scattered over 6 square miles so we had a lot of ground to cover. The history of the place overwhelmed us.

We had lunch at a great restaurant on the river frequented only by locals. We easily stood out. Mr. SFW bit into some hot peppers and his head nearly exploded! This is a Latin guy who can usually tolerate some pretty hot spices! Eventually I started to feel these same peppers emit their poison and I just about died. It took many gulps of water and heaps of rice to calm the senses. There’s no subtle way to accomplish this.

It just so happened to be the final day of a full week of the Ayutthaya World Heritage Site celebration. It commemorates the historic park’s inscription onto the list in 1981. Our timing to be here on this day was coincidental but perfect. We purchased tickets for the spectacular light show that was being performed among the ruins at 7:30pm. Performers in traditional attire re-enacted the story about how Ayutthaya was once a peaceful and beautiful place to live and the war with the Burmese who ultimately conquered and destroyed it. It was spectacular!. Once again, pictures can’t do the performance justice. Our apologies for the blurred pictures. We had set it for night picture-taking and since the shutter stays open longer the slightest movement causes it to blur. A tripod would have been nice but not practical to carry around.

On the drive back to Bangkok, Mr. SFW and I fell fast asleep in the back seat of the van feeling fully sated by the day.

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The next day, Monday 12/19, we were picked up once again for our tour around the king’s Grand Palace. Though he doesn’t officially live there as often anymore there was this wonderful feeling that he might just step out from one of these awesome, highly decorative palaces. We have never in our lives seen anything as beautiful as this complex. The palace glistened in the sun with the intricate artwork of colorful mosaics, reflecting mirrors and gold. Gold, gold, gold. I’ve been to some of the most fascinating places in Europe but the dazzling spectacle will be nothing I’ll ever forget!

I have to mention this one thing that still sticks in my craw. Before proceeding inside the compound I needed to break a large bill and went up to the window of those manned, mini cash booths. No line so it was easy to simply walk up and make my transaction. Almost immediately another person came up behind me breathing down my neck. I didn’t feel threatened but took note of the rudeness as I like my personal space when I’m conducting this type of business. Before I even had a chance to collect the money and count it this jerk throws his money into the tray and tries to bump me out. Wouldn’t you know it - The Ugly American. I bumped him right back while his cash remained in the tray. I stood there slooooowly counting. Before I walked away I made some comment I simply can’t recall.

After being mesmerized by this glorious palace, our guide took us to lunch at a fine restaurant nearby. It immediately reminded me of the restaurants back home where the older ladies of society dine to share the latest gossip and businessmen impress out of town clients. Accompanied by a pianist, a woman in her 60's was entertaining the diners. We were told she’s been singing here for many years and has become a known fixture. I believe it! She’s been here so many years they don’t have the heart to tell her she can no longer carry a note. We enjoyed the lunch but quietly I couldn’t help but smile to myself at the cliche of it all though the guide took some pride in taking us here.

Across the street from the restaurant we came upon a large sandwich sign outside a door that read, “Museum of Jade.” I remembered our time in San Jose, Costa Rica last year. Mr. SFWanderer wanted to go inside a well-known jade museum. I thought we were too pressed for time to wander in and I said, “no.” This time I was going to make that up to him. We were greeted by as many as 5 sales girls at the door and led away to a private room for a video about jade. “Uh, oh,” I thought. “This is going to be a sales pitch with no way out”as we walked pass the usual jewelry cases. Our young guide tried to quietly sneak away but I “insisted” he join us. “Come on! This will be fun if we do this together!” So, for about a half hour, we sat through a presentation and soon afterwards escorted by the store owner around the place. The “museum” turned out to be a small, yet impressive private collection upstairs.

I was going to stand firm and not be manipulated into buying anything as we were shown around the cases of beautiful jade pieces. I just kept eyeing the door hoping for an opportunity to dodge this game.

When we made our successful escape with our wallets intact, I glared at our guide. I felt he could have mentioned that our intentions to visit a museum would in fact only be a visit inside a store. There were other instances like this with him throughout the day so I was ready to dump the guide at this point. Still we remained very polite and allowed him to continue on a bit more.

Mr. SFW had an appointment with Raja’s Fashions for his first fitting at 4:30 so we figured this will be a good way to say thanks and goodbye. Mr. Bobby was once again very nice and welcoming in spite of the hectic atmosphere. After a few minutes, Bobby came back to us to say we were a bit earlier than the 6:30 appointment. Just a little misunderstanding so we said we’d return in a bit.

What to do with our guide.

We thought this would be a great opportunity to get one of those foot massages offered around the corner and asked our guide to escort us there. The experience was heaven. The one word to describe the feeling after having your feet and calves worked on for an hour. By the way, getting a massage in Thailand is about as common as McDonald’s and Burger King in NYC.

It was now about 6:00 and we figured this was a good time to tip our guide (who waited this whole time) and send him on his way. The guides are suppose to be sure we always return safely to the hotel but I told him that Mr. SFW’s fitting would take a while and we didn’t want to keep him. Ah, mission accomplished. Still we tipped him so that we could sleep well tonight.

The fitting was fun and we told Bobby we would return for our second fitting between flight connections on the 23rd when we return to Bangkok from Chiang Mai and on to Siem Reap. He said we could come in anytime since we would be at the mercy of plane delays and traffic.

We were to meet with MegatopLover tonight but we returned to the hotel too late in the evening. When we called him at the Peninsula he was very kind and understanding and said he was also exhausted having arrived from Hong Kong earlier in the day. We mutually agreed to get together again when Mr. SFW and I returned to Bangkok on New Year’s eve.

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BKK-CNX

At 6:00am the following morning we were picked up at the hotel to meet TG#102 to Chiang Mai. Our seats were Royal Executive (first class isn’t offered domestically) but I’ve read on the boards that if the plane was a 747 (ours was a 7443), first classing seating is offered upon request at check in.

Check in was quick, having no lines at the two Royal Executive desks. Giving the “wai” greeting and armed with the knowledge about the seating arrangements, I asked about getting row 2. She offered mid-section or upstairs of the plane. I gently nudged a bit further and asked about any availability between rows 1 and 4. She made a quick phone call and seats 2E and 2F were assigned to us. SCORE! It may have helped that we were dressed nicely in slacks and blazers. Would we be as successful had we’ve been in jeans? I don’t know but it doesn’t hurt to up your chances by dressing well. We were then invited to make use of the Royal Orchid Lounge over to our right.

The door to the lounge is very non-descript and we were a bit hesitant walking through. We were met by 3 agents at the desk, had our boarding passes swiped and welcomed in. The food kiosk was good but I particularly loved the small chicken rolls. Those I popped in my mouth like M&M’s! There were your assorted pasties, mini hotdog buns and beverages. Nothing special but worth munching on. Mr. SFWanderer made use of the computer terminals at the back of the lounge and I took my pictures. A couple of hours later, our flight was called and we proceeded through the back door of the lounge, walked the private hallway reserved for the privileged few, down the escalator and to the gate. We were getting bussed to our magnificent plane awaiting us on the tarmac. We proceeded up the first class ramp and introduced to their new plane with the same sleeper pods we had on the A346 from NRT. Jackpot!

The flight was just over an hour but we were still served a full, delicious breakfast of omelettes, fruit and breads. Sheesh, we’re lucking to get one cup of coffee on an LAX-SFO flight in the same amount of time (about a little over an hour). The FA’s were all so pleasant and friendly and enjoyed watching me take my pictures.

The Rachamankha had a car waiting when we arrived in Chiang Mai. While checking in, we were greeted with a glass of guava juice. While being escorted to our room, along the way we were impressed by the serenity of the place. It was a former monks monastery so it has the air of complete calm and inner peace. The room, we discovered, wasn’t ready but that wasn’t much of a surprise since we arrived a bit early. The bellman was very embarrassed but we told him it wasn’t a problem and we would take the time to acquaint ourselves with the facilities.

As the pictures can attest to, it’s very beautiful.

During our stay, we partook in a 2 hour Thai massage by the pool for a whopping total of $19 - for both of us!! We can get use to this.

We received a call from our guide about 5:00pm saying he would meet us at 8:00pm for a tour of the night market. This wasn’t expected tonight but, sure, why not. Dol was a sweet guy we took an immediate liking to.

What a market! There were hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of booths selling all sorts of things. After a while we started to see the same stuff over and over again so it’s easy to bargain down the price. Bargaining is so not us but we eventually got the hang of it that it was actually fun! Bargaining extended to the “tuk-tuk,” a 3-wheeled open air vehicle when we traveled to and from the hotel.

The following morning, Dol picked us up after breakfast to take us around Chiang Mai and the many temples here. The architecture of these temples continue to blow me away. I finally got up the nerve to take a picture of a group of student monks at a school. Well actually, I asked Dol to do it for me. It just felt so intrusive but Dol said they’re always accommodating to the tourists.

We were then brought to a silk factory where they still make fabrics by handloom. It was very fascinating that there was no way I would leave without buying something from their showroom. They treated Mr. SFW and I to coffee and home made cake after our impressive buying spree!

Mr. SFW was looking for a specific item for his sister at a local street market. Somehow, when I wasn’t paying attention, I knocked the top of my head on a low hanging bus stop. It had inverted, decorative triangles along the edge and I made hard contact. That hurt a lot! But would you believe there just happened to be a small pharmacy right there, steps away?! The blood started to really flow and the look on everyone’s face started to really worry me. What did it look like up there? They immediately opened a bottle of antiseptic, iodine and tore open a package of gauze. They were insistent on cleaning and applying it themselves and afterwards refused to take any payment!


It was the very end of the day so we were heading to the hotel anyway where I rested for the balance of the evening. That night, Mr. SFW and I wanted to go to the night market and in spite of having a band aid affixed to the top of my head and the bruised vanity that accompanied it, we had a great time.

The next day was our Elephant Safari tour in the jungles north of Chiang Mai. We wanted Dol to take us but he said he wasn’t assigned to do this with us. Our tour van was an hour and twenty minutes late and we were concerned we would be stood up as we were in Bangkok. We were surprised when we were finally met by the van containing two other couples from Taiwan and France and a couple of trainees from the tour company. We had gotten accustomed to the private guides and weren’t aware this was going to be a “joiner” tour.

The “safari” was fun but I felt like such the tourist for the first time on this trip. On the way back in to Chiang Mai we stopped at an orchid farm (very nice) and a paper mache mill where they make greeting cards and albums out of elephant dung (not so very nice). This topped it all and we were anxious to end this tour now. By the way, paper mache stationary is offered everywhere in Thailand shops and stalls so take note of its origins!

Mr. SFW was very annoyed about being a part of a “joiner.” It takes a lot to get him p.o’d. To make matters worse he learned that both couples paid half what we were charged for this tour. We sent an email to our agent in Bangkok letting him know of our displeasure.

What was awaiting us the next day, Friday 12/23, this episode only paled by comparison.


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CAMBODIA

We checked in for TG#922 to BKK at 8:30am where we would make our connection to Siem Reap, Cambodia. We were booked in a Colonial Suite at the Victoria Angkor for our Christmas holiday.

Upon checking in I was expecting to acquire the same seats we had coming up here so imagine my surprise when I was told (after the agent made the same phone call made at BKK) that it wasn’t available. How is that possible when we’re checking in nearly 2 ½ hours early? I was told that at least 5 seats were taken by “passengers in wheelchairs and an escort” but one seat was still available. And of the other 4 seats? Taken. The aircraft was going to be the 7443 version so I figured I should experience the new Royal Silk seats anyway. We completed check in and went upstairs to use their lounge. Because it was under renovation they secured a small section of a restaurant for Royal Executive passengers and Royal Orchid members. It was a bit lame so when it got very crowded we headed for the gate to wait. It wasn’t worth taking a single picture.

What a mob we came upon at the gate! Boarding time had come and gone so now the masses were crowding the podium waiting impatiently for boarding to begin. Is this going to be a repeat of the NH process at SFO? When an announcement was made in Thai, I barely noticed a gate agent holding up a small sign stating “ROYAL EXECUTIVE.” So I guess that meant for us to board. Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle through the crowd we go. “Pardon me, excuse me, excuse me, pardon me...”

The seats were extremely comfortable and angled to a full flat position. Not so bad but I’d rather be in the pods I see before me!

To my astonishment, the 5 handicapped passengers and their escort turned out to be a happy, healthy family; mom, dad and the 3 kids! Why would the ticket agent tell me such an outlandish lie? It made no sense to me. Just tell me there were no seats available and be gone with it. Why say something so ridiculous? OK, maybe they had significant Royal Orchid status. Fine, I can accept that. They’re entitled to the perks. Mr. SFWanderer told me to relax. It was only a one hour flight anyway. True, but I sat there and sulked like a child losing perspective that I paid for this type of seating anyway. Sorry folks, no pictures. I was acting like a baby at the time!

When we arrived at BKK, we had to be bussed back to the terminal. Second of several times you’ll read later on in the story.

We gave ourselves a 6 hour layover in BKK so Mr. SFW could make his second fitting at Raja’s.

We made the long walk between Terminal 2 and Terminal 1 to leave our luggage at the storage place the airport conveniently has and taxied over in the typical heavy traffic. The fitting went well, we grabbed a bite to eat and headed back to the airport. When we checked in at the Bangkok Airways counter the agent asks Mr. SFW where his visa to Cambodia was.

“Excuse me?”

The Cambodia Embassy website, everything I read and the advice from our agent was that everyone can obtain one upon arrival in Cambodia. Why was this any different? Something about his travel document (he’s an asylee in the US) being different from a US passport and a visa is required in advance. Our Christmas plans in Angkor Wat were now down the tubes and we had no place to stay for 3 days. The one time I cut a corner in preparation for this trip and didn’t take care of this little, yet important detail ahead of time. Live and Learn albeit an expensive lesson.

Stranded.

It was 4:00pm so we collected our bags, rushed to the pay phones that were very alien to us and called our agent in town. “Houston, we have a problem.”

We taxied yet again into the horrendous traffic to the agency in town. We thanked our lucky stars that at least we used one right here in Bangkok. Our agent’s connections got us a room at the Siam Heritage next door to his office. Not what we were accustomed to but it was reasonable with a bed to sleep in. Instead of looking for better accommodations for the following days we decided to just stay put.

We were headed for Phuket on Monday so we asked if we could look into taking an earlier flight for the following day (Saturday). We were told however that the hotel we would be staying was fully booked and advised to stay in Bangkok until Monday afternoon. How about an early Monday morning flight? No dice. Just have to deal with the situation.

I have to mention that as it got closer to the oney year anniversary of the tsunami disaster there was increasing coverage about it. It’ll be strange to arrive on the 26th but we hoped we could participate in the ceremonies scheduled for that day.



Next stop, Phuket and the tsunami memorial...