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Old Jan 5, 2012, 4:26 pm
  #1  
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Adventures In New Zealand - UA F, NZ J, NZ Y

EDIT: Trip report has finally been completed! Thanks to everyone who read and commented! I appreciate it

I returned from my two week vacation in New Zealand on December 31, 2011, and after decompressing for a few days, I'm finally ready to start writing the trip report. Unlike my epic Tokyo/Vietnam trip report from summer of last year, I think what I'll do this time around is focus more on the highlights instead of detailing every single hotel and city. I believe it's more applicable here anyways since much of this trip involved backpacking, hiking, and driving.

So without further ado, here is my two week adventure through New Zealand (links will become active as I complete each installment). Suggestions and comments are always welcome and much appreciated!

* Introduction
* United Airlines 274 First Class (SFO → LAX)
* Air New Zealand LAX Koru Club Lounge
* Air New Zealand 5 Business Premier (LAX → AKL)
* Exploring Auckland
* Air New Zealand 619 Economy Class (AKL → ZQN)
* Exploring Queenstown And Getting To The Milford Track
* The Milford Track
* Exploring Milford Sound
* Road Trip Up The West Coast Of The South Island
* Abel Tasman Kayaking And Hiking
* InterIslander Ferry And Wellington
* InterContinental Wellington
* Air New Zealand 418 Economy Class (WLG → AKL)
* Air New Zealand AKL Koru Club Lounge
* Air New Zealand 8 Business Premier (AKL → SFO)

Last edited by glu800; Mar 11, 2012 at 11:16 pm
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Old Jan 5, 2012, 4:29 pm
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New Zealand December 2011 - Introduction

I've written a couple of posts (here and here) about my adventures in booking award tickets to and from New Zealand, so I won't bother recapping how nerve-wracking it was to not see any award space as the departure date quickly approached. Luckily, my patience (and ExpertFlyer) paid off and I was able to snag Air New Zealand Business Premier seats on both the outbound and inbound flights. Booking was easy using my OnePass miles, and one of the best things about the Continental website is that it not only displays most partner award seat availability, but you can also book your complete itinerary online without having to pay the $25 phone fee.

In total, I used 135,000 OnePass miles plus $51.38 in taxes and fees. This saved me quite a bit of money, since the cheapest tickets to Auckland during the Christmas holiday hovered around $1,300 minimum for the six months or so I kept track of prices, and the direct Air New Zealand tickets never dropped below $1,800 - in economy! For domestic New Zealand flights, one of the best advice I came across online was to book Air New Zealand tickets through the New Zealand portal (http://www.airnewzealand.co.nz/) instead of United States portal (http://www.airnewzealand.com/home). Prices for the exact same flights were sometimes hundreds of dollars cheaper on the New Zealand website, and anyone could book the tickets without proof of NZ citizenship.

Planning for the itinerary began in May 2011, when a few old college friends and I all agreed on New Zealand as the destination, and more specifically, on doing the independent Milford Track hike. It's extremely important to book your space on the New Zealand Department Of Conservation website as early as possible (up to six months in advance) during the summer season because only a maximum of 40 independent hikers are allowed on the track per day. No camping is allowed at all, so everyone must stay in the three designated huts along the route. I will go into more detail regarding the huts in the Milford Track installment of this trip report. Doing the Milford Track independently is not cheap, as we each paid approximately $315.00 USD for the four-day hike, although that did include boat and bus transport before and after. If you go with a guided tour however (up to 50 people allowed per day split among different outfitters), expect to pay upwards of $1,800!

We decided early on that we wanted to focus more on the South Island since many of the famous national parks are located there. Due to time constraints, we couldn't see everything we wanted, but ultimately, we were able to fit in a four-day road trip up the west coast of the South Island, hitting Westland, Paparoa, and Abel Tasman National Parks. We ended the drive in Picton, where we took the InterIslander Ferry across the Cook Strait to Wellington, and from there, flew back to the States via Auckland.

For accommodations, we booked mainly backpackers lodges since this wasn't really a luxury-type trip, but we did have a few "splurge moments" such as our night at the beautiful Milford Sound Lodge chalet, and our last night in New Zealand at the InterContinental Wellington. It struck a good balance where we could minimize our cost, yet also have a few nights of real comfort.

Overall, this was probably the most tiring vacation I've ever been on; at least it's the most hiking I've ever done on a trip! But it was more than worth it in the end, as the scenary in New Zealand was absolutely stunning. I was telling my friend that the entire country is so beautiful that you almost become desensitized to it... "oh there's another open green field with snow-capped mountains in the background and grazing sheep", "oh there's another perfectly clear river winding its way past a lush forest", "oh there's another expanse of sandy beach framed by wind-swept rocks"... you get the idea Hopefully some of that beauty will translate over in the pictures I post throughout this trip report!

Thanks for reading!


Milford Sound - December 26, 2011

Last edited by glu800; Jan 5, 2012 at 10:22 pm
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Old Jan 5, 2012, 10:13 pm
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Looks like its going to be an awesome tr, looking foward to reading it.
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Old Jan 6, 2012, 1:13 am
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That is an amazing photo of Mitre Peak!

I worked in Milford Sound when the hotel was owned by the Tourist Hotel Corporation, over 3 summer seasons in the late 70s and have very fond memories of the area.

Looking forward to enjoying your TR...
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Old Jan 6, 2012, 12:59 pm
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looking forward to the TR, hoping for lots of great pics!
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 1:29 pm
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New Zealand December 2011 - United Airlines 274 First Class (SFO-LAX)

I arrived at San Francisco International Airport a full two hours ahead of my departure time, a lesson well-learned from my previous departure debacle while leaving for Tokyo last year. I entered Terminal 3 and found my way to the premium check-in area. Unfortunately, this was the start of several slightly unpleasant situations I found myself in throughout the day.

Being that this was my first time flying out of the United terminal in first class, I was a little confused by the setup. All the way to the left was premium check-in for 1K and international first/business class, and next to that was premium check-in for domestic first/business along with Premier Executive, Premier, and Star Alliance Gold/Silver. Further to the right was Premier Access check-in.



I suppose logically, I should have just started at the international first/business class line since I was planning on checking in all the way to Auckland, but I made my way over to the domestic first/business line (reasoning that I was flying to LAX), only to find that there was nobody working the counters. Then I made my way over to Premier Access line and waited a few minutes, only to find that this was a self-service line with just one baggage handler working the counters. Finally, I walked over to the international first/business line and was checked-in by an actual United agent. While this was completely my own idiotic mistake, I was a little surprised that there was not a single agent working the domestic first/business or Premier Access check-in lines. I noticed several other people who had issues to resolve besides checking in luggage also playing musical chairs with the three lines until they finally headed over to the international first/business line as well.

Once at the counter, I was able to get myself and my large backpack checked-in all the way to Auckland. The friendly agent handed me the boarding pass and told me that I could enjoy access to the United Club a little ways past security. I was somewhat surprised, and I even asked her again because I was pretty sure I shouldn't have access to the lounge at SFO since this wasn't my international departure point. She assured me that I did.



Security was quick and painless, and afterwards, I headed directly to the United Club entrance. Unfortunately, that was about as far as I got. In a slightly embarrassing episode, I walked up to the counter and handed my boarding pass to the lounge dragon, who immediately and loudly rejected it and said I could not enter the club. An older couple at the counter next to me turned and gave me a long stare, as if I was some riffraff off the streets trying to crash their elegant party. Feeling like my earlier apprehensions had been totally validated, I gave one halfhearted protest that the check-in agent had assured me I would have access, then turned around for my walk of shame out the long hallway.


Entrance to the United Club I had no access to


Walk of shame hallway

United Airlines 274
Boeing 757-200
San Francisco (SFO) - Los Angeles (LAX)
Saturday December 17, 2011
Departure: 2:05 PM (scheduled) / 2:03 PM (actual)
Arrival: 3:28 PM (scheduled) / 4:09 PM (actual)
Duration: 1h 23m (scheduled) / 2h 6m (actual)
Seat: 1A (First)




Embarrassed but not defeated, I wait the next hour at the gate until first class boarding started. I had chosen seat 1A on our 757-200 based on the SeatGuru review, and by all accounts it was perfectly fine. Bulkhead seating can be iffy sometimes since legroom is either better or worse than normal. In this case, while the bulkhead was fairly close to the front of the seat, there was actually a cutout at the bottom so you could extend your legs.





The rest of the flight was uneventful. The flight attendant was friendly, continuously topping off my water. He came around with a basket of snacks and I had a banana and some Pop Chips. Once the plane landed at LAX, however, things got very interesting.


SFO from the air

We taxied towards Terminal 7, but stopped well short of it, and proceeded to wait. The captain came on the speaker soon after and told us that our gate was currently occupied and we would have a 10-minute wait until the other plane leaves. 10 minutes passed, then 20, then 30. Usually I would have no problem with this, but unfortunately, I drank so much water on the plane that my bladder was literally about to explode, and the flight attendants had explicitly forbade anyone to stand up. In fact they loudly admonished two people who had the audacity to do just that. I squirmed and fidgeted in my seat, mentally cursing just about anyone even remotely associated with United at that point.

The passengers on board were quickly becoming agitated since many of them had to make connections and several were in real danger of missing theirs. The surly gentleman sitting next to me began to make some nasty remarks about United under his breath, then as the time wore on, he started making them directly to the flight attendant, who tried to take it in stride. I took note of one thing the flight attendant said... he remarked that there were two delays that passengers hate the most, the first of which was waiting on the tarmac after landing for an occupied gate to be vacated, but even worse was waiting at the gate after parking for a crew to connect the jet bridge. Little did he know those words would come back to haunt him in a few minutes.

Finally, the aircraft started moving just past the half-hour mark, making its way to the gate. Once the seat belt lights came off, literally everyone jumped out of their seats and grabbed their carry-ons. Then things took a turn for the worse. The plane just sat there for 5 minutes, then 10, then 15. I kept looking out the window, but the jet bridge just stood there frozen, with no one in sight. At this point, the gentleman next to me had begun a full-out argument with the flight attendant, telling him that out of all his years of flying, United was the worst airline he's ever experienced. Another passenger shouted a demand that someone contact the jet bridge crew, to which the flight attendant said they'd already done that. At first I believed him, but after what happened next, I began to doubt it.

Staring out the window, I finally saw a cleaning lady poke her head out of the open jet bridge. Apparently many other passengers inside the plane got her attention too, as she gave us a shrug and looked around to see if there was a crew member available. She went back inside and, after another five minutes or so, reappeared with a jet bridge operator who finally moved it in place and allowed the doors to be opened. I'm not sure how much longer it would have taken if the cleaning lady hadn't noticed us!

Nearly 45 minutes after we landed, we finally deplaned and I made a beeline for the men's restroom. This was definitely not a pleasant experience on United, though I did feel bad for the flight attendants, who were literally being verbally assaulted by the passengers. And this was just after 45 minutes of waiting... imagine the horror stories you read about passengers being stranded on planes for 7 hours! In any case, I was ready for my six-hour layover at LAX. Fortunately, this time around, I would have access to the Air New Zealand Koru Club Lounge.


I took this picture despite having a bladder that was about to explode

Last edited by glu800; Jan 7, 2012 at 3:18 pm
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 4:47 pm
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You did have access to the United Club at SFO - sorry you were told otherwise . Jeff Smisek has certainly made sure that United has cut costs during the merger, but hasn't focused at all on making sure to standardize rules so that UA employees all actually know of what they speak. Sigh.
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 6:49 pm
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Darn, I knew I should have pushed a little harder! Oh well, maybe I'll get to visit the lounge next time
Thanks for the comments everyone! @fifa, Milford Sound was definitely the highlight of the trip, it was stunning!
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 7:21 pm
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Great Report, thank you for putting the time and effort into writing it! New Zealand is indeed a stunning place!

ps. Did you show them your LAX-AKL boarding pass at the United Club, because I think it is that flight that grants you access, not the SFO-LAX one ...
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 7:32 pm
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Great report and pictures!
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Old Jan 7, 2012, 10:52 pm
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Great report so far, looking forward to the rest of this having just got back from Auckland myself!
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Old Jan 8, 2012, 3:11 am
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Originally Posted by im.daniel
Did you show them your LAX-AKL boarding pass at the United Club, because I think it is that flight that grants you access, not the SFO-LAX one ...
Precisely.
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Old Jan 8, 2012, 12:07 pm
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@im.daniel and 1P, absolutely, I showed her the LAX-AKL boarding pass. I don't know if it was because I handed her both boarding passes for SFO-LAX and LAX-AKL... maybe she only looked at the first one. I'm not exactly sure.

Either way, I probably should have pressed harder by emphasizing that my itinerary was for Auckland. Oh well... live and learn
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Old Jan 8, 2012, 3:51 pm
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New Zealand December 2011 - Air New Zealand LAX Koru Club Lounge



After arriving at LAX, I made my way over to Terminal 2. Despite having my LAX-AKL boarding pass already (printed by United), I headed to the Air New Zealand check-in counter to request a real one instead. There was a premium check-in area to the right, but I decided to go to the regular line since it was completely empty. It ended up being a good idea to get my boarding pass reprinted because Air New Zealand actually requires proof of your return flight prior to departure - something United failed to inform me of when I checked in at SFO.



There was no premium security line that I could find, so I joined the regular queue with everyone else. Luckily it moved fairly quickly. Once through, I made my way upstairs to the mezzanine level where all the T2 lounges were located. The entrance to the Air New Zealand Koru Club was fairly nondescript, although the sign outside did indicate that Virgin Atlantic Upper Class passengers were also welcome. Inside, the lounge was nicely decorated with Christmas trees and plenty of reminders of New Zealand, such as a giant kiwi stuffed animal, and All Blacks paraphernalia.





I went over to the dining area near the center of the lounge, where there was a small island in the middle serving up salads, fruits, breads, cheeses, and a selection of cold cuts. Hot clam chowder was also available. Since I hadn't really eaten lunch that day, I decided to snack a little bit, knowing that I still had a full dinner waiting for me on board. A variety of mid-shelf alcohol, beer, and wine was also available for self-service, along with sodas, juices, and coffee. While not a particularly impressive spread by any means, it was plenty to tide anyone over before the actual flight.













Since I was in the lounge about five hours prior to the first Air New Zealand departure, the place was deserted when I first arrived. It was well laid-out, consisting of a long hall with plenty of comfortable couches and chairs. One side of the lounge had a nice view of the tarmac outside of Terminal 2. There was also a business center with a couple of computers located at the very end of the lounge around the corner. Unfortunately, it appeared as if those computers hadn't been updated in a few years since they were all running an ancient version of Internet Explorer that crashed every five minutes while I was using it.


Almost empty lounge when I first arrived


View from the lounge



I decided to check out the showers, which were located in a separate hallway through a marked door. It was very clean and well-stocked with wrapped towels. Soap and shampoo dispensers were in the stall. I didn't actually shower, but I did freshen up and remove my contacts before the long flight.





About two hours prior to departure, the lounge really started to fill up, to the point where I couldn't even find one empty seat! Air New Zealand has two flights bound for Auckland within an hour of each other in the late evening, so the lounge definitely reaches full capacity around this time. I decided to head downstairs a little early, and quickly realized that despite being crowded, the lounge was no comparison to the zoo that was the gate area right before departure. Thankfully, boarding commenced soon after and I was on my way!


Packed lounge right before I left

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Old Jan 10, 2012, 10:23 pm
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New Zealand December 2011 - Air New Zealand 5 Business Premier (LAX-AKL)

Air New Zealand 5
Boeing 747-400
Los Angeles (LAX) - Auckland (AKL)
Saturday December 17, 2011
Departure: 10:00 PM (scheduled) / 10:00 PM (actual)
Arrival: 7:50 AM (scheduled) / 7:40 AM (actual)
Duration: 12h 50m (scheduled) / 12h 40m (actual)
Seat: 5A (Business Premier)


I entered the Boeing 747-400 behind row 15 and immediately made a left into the Business Premier cabin. The first section consisted of a 1-2-1 configuration. Despite being the older business seats (newest versions can be found on their 777-300ER), everything still looked quite modern and immaculate.





I walked through the forward galley and made my way to seat 5A in the nose of the 747-400, my favorite part of the plane! This Business Premier section is noticeably roomier and more private. I specifically chose 5A because it has the most space in front of the seat, and is also far enough away from the galley and lavatory. Amenity kits and menus were already placed on the footrests.





The seat itself is very comfortable, with plenty of padding and shoulder space. There is also a wide area to the side where you can place an array of small items such as cameras, phones, purses, etc. The armrest to one side can be lowered for sleeping, though I chose to lower it the entire time for extra space. The only other storage area in the seat is a cubby-hole underneath the footrest where you can place small bags, but it was definitely not large enough to hold a carry-on roller, or even my backpack for that matter. Most carry-ons still had to go in the overhead compartment during take-off and landing.



Like all herringbone designs, the screen is mounted in the divider, and can be pulled out and adjusted. The remote is right underneath and is easy enough to navigate. In-seat power is a little hidden, but can be found if you reach inside the magazine cubby (below the remote) to one side. The biggest complaint I had about the entertainment system was the absolutely horrendous quality of the screen. I tried watching several movies, but for any scene that was even slightly darker (indoors, nighttime), it was literally impossible to make out what was going on - the blacks were completely washed out. I finally gave up and started listening to music. Initially, I thought it was an isolated problem with my screen, but as I found out on the return flight, this appears to be a common issue with all the older Business Premier systems.



I must say, the lady serving us during this flight was one of the friendliest, most helpful flight attendants I've ever come across. She always had a smile on her face, and was proactive in almost every aspect of the flight service. Before departure, she sat down with each passenger and explained the basics of the seat and entertainment system, and made sure we had everything we needed. A hot towel and pre-departure drinks were also served. I had some orange juice since I wasn't feeling like imbibing in alcohol yet.

Soon after take-off, dinner orders were taken and the large tray tables were set-up for service. The dinner menu was as follows:
Supper

Fast Dine
- Roast vine ripened tomato, miso and sweet potato soup, offered with tofu, radish and nori (vegetarian)
- Chocolate raspberry ganache with vanilla mascarpone cream

To Begin
- Five spiced chicken with cucumber spaghetti, daikon, papaya salsa and sesame ginger dressing

From the Bakery
- Garlic bread, black olive bread and wholegrain sourdough bread

Main Course
- Red wine braised beef short rib with shiitake and lentils, smoked beets and wilted spinach
- Pan seared cod on quinoa, olive and mint tabouleh with green beans and cherry tomatoes, roast tomato, caper and capsicum salad
- Wood roasted chicken breast with feta and chive potato mash, bell peppers, broccolini and salsa verde

To Finish
- Gourmet dessert of strawberry ice cream and pineapple and coconut ice cream with mango coulis

Cheese and Fruit
- Fine New Zealand cheese and fresh seasonal fruit

Hot Drinks
- Freshly brewed or decaffeinated coffee, tea, herbal tea or hot chocolate

Self-Service Snacks
- Help yourself from our range of snacks available for you to enjoy during your flight

There was also a wine guide included with the menu, but the booklet is way too long for me to type out in its entirety! Needless to say, they had a great selection of New Zealand and international wines to try on board. The standard drinks menu was as follows:
Drinks

Wine
- The premium wine selection on board this flight has been chosen by our wine consultants: John Belsham of Foxes Island Wines, Kate Radburnd of CJ Pask Winery and Jim Harre, nationally recognised wine judge. For details of our onboard wines, refer to your Air New Zealand Wine Guide.

New Zealand Sparkling Wine
- Fresh, bright, lifted nose with toasty notes. The palate shows strawberry and lemon with rich yeast flavours. Elegant and well balanced with a long, lingering aftertaste.

Champagne
- G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge, France - The bubbles are rich on the palate, but never over-powering. The perfect balance is combined with a rounded, full vinosity. The mix of fresh fruit and caramel aromas give even more intensity to the finish. This is a subtly balanced wine with a remarkable capacity to linger in the mouth.

Spirits
- Glenfiddich Malt Whisky, Chivas Regal Blended Whisky, Jack Daniel's Black Label, Gordons Gin, 42Below Vodka, Courvoisier VSOP, Coruba Rum, Ron Bacardi Superior.

Port and Liqueurs
- Portuguese Port, Grand Marnier, Baileys Irish Cream.

Beer
- A selection of beer featuring Steinlager Pure, Export Gold, Heineken, and low alcohol lager.

Cold Drinks
- Mineral water, orange juice, apple juice, tomato juice, cranberry juice, pineapple juice, cola, lemonade, L&P (sparkling lemon drink), tonic water, ginger ale, diet cola and diet lemonade.

Hot Drinks
- Freshly brewed coffee, decaffeinated coffee, English Breakfast tea, chamomile tea, lemon and ginger tea, decaffeinated tea, raspberry and peach, apple and blackcurrant, Earl Grey tea, peppermint tea, jasmine green tea, hot chocolate.

The five spiced chicken appetizer was delicious. I selected the pan-seared cod for my main since I preferred something a little lighter, and it was great as well. There wasn't a whole lot of flavor in the dish, but add just a touch of the sea salt and pepper, and it was perfect. I absolutely love coconut ice cream, so dessert was amazing, especially with the mango sauce. What's funny was the flight attendant brought out my dessert course along with a glass of the Forrest Noble Riesling and insisted that I try some, saying that it would go well together. I hadn't had any alcohol yet during the dinner service, so I gladly accepted. It was indeed delicious. Finally, she also brought out the cheese and fruit course with a glass of port. Who am I to say no?









I was absolutely stuffed by now, so I lingered for a bit, listening to music. After the table had been cleared, I went to the lavatory to change into something more comfortable while the wonderful flight attendant converted my seat into a bed. The lavatory was standard sized, and was actually rather difficult to change in. They did have some nice organic Pacifica lotion and cleanser products for passenger use though.





Unlike other herringbone designs, Air New Zealand Business Premier seats actually fold forward to connect with the foot rest. Hence, the back of the seat forms the bed. While the back material is rather hard, a nicely padded sleeping mattress is used to lay on top, which was extremely comfortable. Add in a soft duvet and pillow, and you've got yourself quite a perfect bed in the sky. I slept for a good five or six hours without interruption.


Last edited by glu800; Jan 10, 2012 at 10:39 pm
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