DrGiggles

thanks again davido and halibahs. i'm dropping thimphu.

is there a quick description you could give of paro, gangtey and bumthang so i can figure out where to allocate an additional night?

thanks so much

Kagehitokiri

includes halibahs photo report > http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...-uma-paro.html >
may 17 2015 discussion / some domestic flight info >
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...l#post24830898
zigzag and Groombridge agree re thimphu >
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...er-hotels.html
Baghoarder recommends religious festivals > http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...mo-bhutan.html
kora and weather > http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...n-january.html
logistics > http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...-uma-paro.html
zigzag > http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...ora-april.html

does amankora still offer services in bangkok? (yes in latest report)
is kathmandu flight still the best everest view?
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...get-there.html

halibahs

We didnt visit Bumthang last time but as DavidO says, it takes about a whole day to get there(6-8 hrs drive from Gangtey), it would makes sense to add an extra night there.

Between Paro, Punakha and Gangtey, we feel that Paro is worth the extra night as the domestic flight back from Bumthang again probably takes up half a day. Then you have the Tiger Nest's trail there which is a must do. Plus sunday market etc.

DrGiggles

thank you again to davido and halibahs for their extremely helpful suggestions. I just returned from a visit to amankora. i ended up doing lunch in thimpu while driving direct to punakha. did 2 nights punakha, 3 nights gangtey, 2 nights bumthang and 3 nights paro.

I believe 2 nights at each location would be more than sufficient assuming guests did not want any downtime (spa appointments can be made late in the evening so as to not interfere with activities). We did not have as much of an issue with the bumpiness of the road as other guests did and we were able to do the gangtey-bumthang drive in 5.5 hours with a stop at trongsa dzong.

I would also possibly advise doing a night in thimphu or an extra night in punakha if you are not taking a break in BKK as the early am BKK-PBH plus 4 hour drive might be a bit much coming off of a long flight.

Finally, while it appears that the general favorite is gangtey (and i understand why given the views), punakha was up there for us. We thought the food there was the best, we thought the staff there was the friendliest and we enjoyed the riverside location as well (would say the riverside BBQ is a must-do activity).

We went in March which we thought was a great time to go. would avoid summer for active hikers.

Kagehitokiri

do you think theres any chance of sleeping during transfer from airport to amankora?
was the domestic/internal bhutan flight an available option during your trip/dates?

great details, thanks!

low season was dec/jan/feb (except xmas/nye) jun/jul/aug
saw offered for 2016, not as big of a discount as 1st in 2015

DrGiggles

depends on whether you can sleep sitting upright on a windy road. Also, near puankha (and beyond) the road gets pretty rough as they are in the process of expanding the highway (some guests found the road conditions to be a big issue).

we were able to take the bumthang-paro flight for our return. While we found the road to be fine, i would skip bumthang if you could not arrange a flight one-way. I don't think bumthang is worth flying both ways for. i believe that flight goes every-other-day during the week and woudl highly recommend booking in advance as numerous guests i spoke with said that the flight had been sold out when they looked into it.

DSI

We recently visited and there's lots of good, accurate advice on here.

Go during a festival. We ended up at their biggest one simply by chance.

We had a horrific time at Paro and the management was simply "unavailable" the entire time and won't make amends for their mistakes. The food I ate immediately gave me food poisoning, not indigestion or a stomach ache, and it was a very clear that the symptoms were food poisoning rather than something else. Specific, highly acute symptoms. But the manager, who never bothered to meet with me, thought that it was prudent to make a medical diagnosis and to stridently defend his position despite complete ignorance. I'm so disappointed with his attitude that it will be our last Aman stay. Out of nearly 100 luxury hotel stays this is the only one true, complete and utter disappointment: eating something tainted and then hearing management engage in an argument with me over my sickness.

I totally understand that mistakes happen, but the management's response did not meet my exceptions.

"I think the acme of the Aman brand has came and went.

That is my experience, and the experience of others I know (both clients and agents).

I'm NOT suggesting Aman sucks, or isn't a great hotel brand. All I'm saying is, they've peaked, and I think they're caving under their own success.

The level of service that made them famous, to a certain extent, is nearly impossible to upkeep.

Furthermore, I don't care whether you're a McDonald's or an Aman: worker strikes are NOT a good thing, and give the consumer/businessman a peek into what's actually going on behind closed doors.

I can't add anything substantive, because it's all anecdotal evidence. That said, anecdotal evidence from multiple people pretty much becomes fact in no time....

(OP: heard an identical complaint to yours out of Amandari last week....)"

EfficientTraveller

We visited in October 2014 and absolutely loved Bhutan. Having looked extensively at the Amankora offering, we in the end decided to book through the Como properties and didn't regret for one second our choice. As Aman will do, the Como properties will organise your entire stay and provide you with a guide and driver for the whole trip. Our itinerary was:

Day 1: Arrive Paro late afternoon (overnight Uma Paro)
Day 2: Morning in Paro and late morning flight to Bumthang. Afternoon in Jakar valley (overnight Yu-Gharling Resort)
Day 3: Exploring Ura valley and Bumthang (overnight Yu-Gharling Resort)
Day 4: Drive from Bumthang to Gangtey via Trongsa Dzong (overnight Gangtey Goepna Lodge)
Day 5: Full day in Gangtey (overnight Gangtey Goepna Lodge)
Day 6: Drive from Gangtey to Punakha via Chimi Lakhang. Afternoon in Punakha (overnight Uma Punakha)
Day 7: Full day in Punakha (over night Uma Punakha)
Day 8: Drive from Punakha to Para with a full day and lunch in Thimphu (overnight Uma Paro)
Day 9: Bumdra Trek (overnight Bumdra Camp)
Day 10: Bumdra Trek and exploring Paro in pm (overnight Uma Paro)
Day 11: Departure

As can be seen from the above, Como were happy to arrange our stays in a number of non Como hotels and to organise the whole thing.

The hotel in Bumthang was of a pretty poor standard but we knew this before we went and were not prepared to pay an extra $1500 each for 2 nights stay in the Amankora. However, the Gangtey Goepna Lodge is a stunning alternative to Aman in Gangtey - the lodge was designed by Mary Lou Thompson who also designed Aman Sveti Stefan and the rooms have a very "Aman" feel to them. The food wasn't quite perfect when we were there but I understand they have a new chef and it has improved.

Uma Punakha and Uma Paro were absolutely excellent - the rooms are smaller than is usual for an Aman but the food was absolutely fantastic and the locations and views from both properties are superb. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them especially if (as it sounds) Amankora is a bit off at the moment.

We also did the Bumdra trek which is an interesting option if you enjoy hiking. Unlike other treks in Bhutan, it is a 2 day trek - the first day you ascend around 1100m (through woods and tundra past monastries and yak herders) to a high altitude fixed camp at 4000m which nestles beside the beautiful Bumdra Monastry. From there, you can hike to the mountain peak (about 4300m) to a sky burial site. The following morning, the hike takes you down the mountain a different route past a number of monastries and finally you approach the Tigers Nest Monastry from above, explore it and then hike to the valley floor. The tents are not luxurious but do have a bed and fleece blankets so it is definitely not "luxury" travel but a unique experience.

DrGiggles

+1 on recommending the bumdra overnight trek as a change of pace (if you're into that sort of thing)

DSI

I think Efficient Traveler's itinerary is outstanding. We would have done the hike, but had our son with us.

The only thing I should underscore was that our guide was truly amazing. Truly awesome. I saw some guides that seemed pretty terrible. I would try to get an in-house guide from COMO or Aman even if you go to another place for a day.

EfficientTraveller

If you are thinking of the internal flight, Como were very clear with us that they strongly recommended flying Paro - Bumthang and driving back rather than the reverse as the flights are unreliable and therefore any delays are best handled at the beginning rather than end of your stay. We didn't have any problems but it was good advice. Other operators we spoke to (including Aman) had the flight at the end of the stay which seems potentially problematic for onward international connections.

One upside of starting in Bumthang is that you are immediately immersed into the most traditional (and least touristy) bit of Bhutan that you will see on your trip. Do bear in mind that the altitude is higher (Jakar town is at 2800m and the Ura Valley is over 3000m) than Paro (2200m) so you are likely to feel this if you haven't spent much time in Paro first.

KI-NRT

We just returning from an inspiring sojourn in Bhutan, spending 10 nights across all 5 properties - all Aman. We debated about trying Uma Paro and Punakha, but ultimately decided against

it in order to avail ourselves of Amankora Journey's extra benefits.

This has been mentioned by some others already, but it bears repeating - Bhutan is a unique place, but the experiences are much more subtle than the vast majority of place you'll ever visit. You won't run into exotic animals like in Botswana or Tanzania. There is no major landmark or attraction such as the Taj Mahal or Borobudur (save, perhaps, for Tiger's Nest and maybe Punakha Dzong.) And, while Bhutan is as tranquil and serene as they come it's not a "relaxing" place in the traditional sense; the high altitudes and grueling drives between properties (especially Bumthang-Gangtey) will see to that. When you aggregate all of the experiences, however, it's a wonderful, one-of-a-kind place that has a well preserved traditions and customs (including architecture, clothing, food, religion and frame of mind), beautiful landscapes, and wonderfully sweet (and shy, but not in a bad way) people... all in an environment that is tranquil, gentle and.... clean! How many other places in Asia are as devoid of trash, shouting and spitting people, political strife, non-stop car honking and aggressive hawkers/touts like Bhutan?

One other note - It was low tourist season when we visited. School is back in session for the majority of the world, it's considered the tail end of the monsoon season (it rained a bit, but not enough to prevent us from going out on any excursions) and there are no festivals. Amankora, by extension, was largely devoid of guests. There were several nights when we were the only ones there. Punakha was the one exception; The property was full one night, and Punakha Dzong had its fair share of visitors.

Another note: Most info online suggests that dining is necessarily communal at Paro, Gangtey and Punakha; however, this is not the case. In Punakha, for instance, only in the indoor dining area are the tables set up (two long tables on each side) in a way that makes communal dining unavoidable. In the outdoor patio area, standard tables are available for private dining. Also - unless you're going during the heart of festival season, the dining rooms will be quite empty anyway.

We flew into Paro from Kathmandu (Kathmandu is HIGHLY recommended!) on Druk Air. It was on an all-economy cabin ATR 42-500, but it's only a 1 hour flight so no big deal. We sat on the left side of the plane for views of the Himalayas, but we were unable to see Everest as it was cloudy for most of the flight. The skies are rarely clear in the Summer, so we were mentally prepared for disappointment. We departed from Paro to Bangkok (with a stop in Kolkata), where we overnighted at the Peninsula hotel, then spent 3 nights in Japan before finally arriving home in the SF Bay Area. We recommend business class on flights that offer it (the return was on an A319), especially on the return, as the extra level of comfort really does help after an exhausting journey in Bhutan.

Below was our itinerary:
- 3 nights in Paro
- Fly from Paro to Bumthang; 2 nights in Bumthang
- 2 nights in Gangtey
- 2 nights in Punakha
- 1 night in Thimphu

If you're intending to visit all 5 lodges, this is definitely the way to go. I would advise even the heartiest of travelers to NOT do a round-trip drive between Paro and Bumthang. Do yourself a favor and fly to Bumthang, especially now. 5.5 hours between Bumthang and Gangtey? Please. Try 10.5 hours. Hilly and windy roads? How about hilly, windy, muddy, bumpy, NO ASPHALT roads with frequent delays due to stuck vehicles, landslides, road construction (including the blasting of hillsides by dynamite, which caused 2 different lengthy delays, one from Bumthang and Gangtey and another between Gangtey and Punakha.) Yes, it's that bad. At least right now. Rather than widen the roads one section at a time, they decided to strip the entire highway of asphalt, then work on various sections throughout the highway. Because of this, for us it was the perfect storm - dirt/mud roads the entire way between Bumthang and Gangtey, average speeds of around 15 mph, and constant delays. Gangtey to Punakha was not much better, although the road conditions did increasingly improve as we went further West. Perhaps the situation will improve over time, but it really blew for us. Don't say you weren't warned!


This was the rule rather than the exception, particularly en route from Bumthang to Gangtey


Ten and a half hours of fun! This was one hour of it


Pray that your driver gets a good night's rest the evening prior


One more for the road. Notice the "sludge"

One thing to mention about the vehicles - ours was a 4WD Hyundai Santa Fe SUV, which was comfortable enough considering that we're Asian in stature But I'm not sure that people taller than 6' (such as bhrubin) would be comfortable sitting in the back seat for long stretches. It might be worthwhile to inquire about alternative vehicle choices. I wasn't paying attention to the other cars in Aman's fleet, but I do recall a group of 4 guests saying that they were shuttled around in a van - except that it wasn't 4WD, and the vehicle got stuck in mud on 2 occasions. Something worth looking into prior to embarking on a long Amankora journey.

If you're considering adding Bumthang to your itinerary, you have 3 choices (as I said, round tripping should not be an option for anyone):

1) Skip Bumthang altogether. Drive from Paro to Gangtey (and then back)
2) Fly from Paro to Bumthang, spend a few days in Bumthang, then fly back to Paro
3) Fly from Paro to Bumthang and then back track via SUV

One thing applies to all 3 options - Gangtey is not to be missed (more on that later.)

I won't go into details of the rooms, as DavidO already covered it in his site inspection report. I agree with all of his cons - not having a work desk was incredibly annoying for me, as I'm a workaholic and can't go a day without logging into my work account. A few other criticisms:

- The rooms are too damned dark. Sorry, but my eyesight isn't what it used to be when I was in my 20s. The "atmospheric" lighting might work for hipster millenials, but not for me!
- 53 square meters isn't spacious in my book. I prefer at least 75 square meters, and am willing to pay for it.
- I prefer suites with separate living/sleeping areas. The missus is a light (and constant!) sleeper, whereas I am just the opposite (I am often working while she's snoozing away.) Nothing is more irritating than Mrs. KI-NRT getting up to complain about the clacking sound of my keyboard while she's trying to sleep. I would've gladly paid extra if it was offered as a room option.
- Why are the rooms in every lodge so similar? Ok, they're not IDENTICAL in decor and layout, but that's a technicality. We got a sense of Deja Vu each time we entered into our new room. Not exactly exciting. Sure, the grounds, architecture, reception, views and dining areas are different, but in my mind, Aman took the lazy approach when designing the rooms. Variety would've been nice (I stopped taking room photos after Gangtey, btw.) We generally do like subdued, zen-style room designs, but the layout and functionality of Amankora left us wanting.


Amankora Paro room 12


Amankora Paro room 12. Be sure to ask for a room on the 2nd floor.

We spent 3 nights in Paro, which was about right. The first day we didn't do much, and simply tried to acclimate ourselves to the high altitude (for us.) While some might scoff at the notion of 2200 meters being bothersome, well... good for you . We waited until the third day to do the trek up to Taktsang Palphug Monastery (aka "Tiger's Nest".) For what it's worth, Tiger's Nest is at an elevation of about 3100 meters. Since Paro was our first stop, we chose not to jam-pack our stay with a ton of itineraries - we relaxed and enjoyed the uniqueness that is Bhutan. We visited Paro (Rinpung) Dzong, a few temples, did the Farmhouse lunch (strongly recommended) and did the trek to Tiger's Nest. Mrs. KI-NRT is into textiles, so we visited a few textile "factories" and also bought traditional garb to wear in the various Dzongs and temples in Bhutan. We're not into cosplay, but we do this everywhere we go to truly immerse ourselves in the (cultural) environment. The only "must-do" is Tiger's Nest, but given that Paro was our first stop, everything was a novelty to us and we thoroughly enjoyed every outing. My wife also availed herself to a Thai massage and a facial, and said it was excellent. The property itself is incredibly serene - it's nestled within a pine forest and is surrounded by small streams which provide a nice, soothing soundtrack to the otherwise whisper-quiet setting. Even the intro to the property is wonderful; you are required to walk a very short distance (~2 minutes) from the vehicle drop-off point through the forest on the way to the lodge entrance. This is also not unlike Gangtey (a similar short walk through a forest) and Punakha (you cross a suspension bridge above the Mo Chhu River), and really adds to the sense of place that each of the lodges offer.


Amankora Paro - dining area


Amankora Paro property grounds


The famed Taktsang Palphug Monastery, aka "Tiger's Nest"

The Bumthang property is unique in that it's far enough from the city center to feel secluded, but is still within walking distance to "downtown" (if you can call it that.) It shares its grounds with both a monastery and a former palace building (that's currently being restored), and nearby is a river that adds to the tranquility of the property. Architecturally it's somewhat similar to Thimphu - it has very tall (and white) walls that is reminiscent of a fortress. It's imposing, but not cold. A few things that distinguish Amankora Bumthang (and Bumthang in general):

- The Bhutanese food is the best. The chef there has been with Amankora since its opening, and makes the most awesome pumpkin soup (he told us that it's what got him the job in the first place.)

- The farmhouse lunch in Paro (recommended) is very nice, but the one in Bumthang is amazing. The chef had previously cooked for the royal family, and the quality shows. The farmhouse property grounds are also beautiful, with the pretty structure surrounded by apple trees and a myriad of flowers.

- Thimphu and Paro are much bigger cities, but Bumthang's city center is the most charming. It's about a 30 minute walk from Amankora, and is well worth visiting by foot to enjoy the surroundings and mingle with the locals along the way.


Amankora Bumthang property grounds


Farmhouse lunch in Bhumthang


Farmhouse lunch in Bumthang


Bumthang "city center"

As is typical of most Amans, there were cultural activities every evening, ranging from Astrology sessions, lectures, Buddhist blessings and, of course, sing & dance. At Bumthang one evening, some women from the local village visited and performed a traditional dance in the outside fireplace, which was quite interesting.


Traditional Bumthang dance

Amankora Gangtey had the most stunning location of them all. In fact, Gangtey was the most picturesque valley by far, and the most remote as well. You are treated to sweeping views over the valley floor where black-necked cranes call the place home in the Winter. Views from the rooms are equally impressive, but the money shot comes from the outdoor dining area, so make sure you enjoy breakfast outdoors at the very least.


View of the valley from Amankora Gangtey's outdoor dining area


Amankora Gangtey room. You see it once, you've seen 'em all!

Activities are all about the landscape and scenery, save for the local school visit which we highly recommend. If you intend to donate school supplies for the students, be sure to stock up in Bumthang or Punakha, as there are no stores (that we're aware of) in Gangtey that sell notebooks, pencils or pens. We really enjoyed exploring the valley via a fabulous 2-hour nature hike around and in the valley. You'll walk past small villages, buckwheat farms and pine forests, all the while enjoying a panoramic view below. Gangtey is also THE place to try out the hot stone bath - it's especially rewarding after a day's worth of trekking, and the views from the bath are incredible. Finally, the candle-lit dinner in the (former) potato shed was also a highlight. The setting is not unlike Pak Bilal in Amanjiwo - truly a unique and romantic experience.


Valley hike


Amankora Gangtey hot stone bath


Potato shed dinner

Getting to Amankora Punakha is a real treat. Upon getting out of the vehicle, you are required to cross a suspension bridge that is strewn with prayer flags on both sides. After crossing the bridge, you get into a buggy where you'll be taken up a hill to the entrance of the lodge itself. The views from this property is more about the surrounding mountains rather than the
valley, which is appropriate, given that the mountains are picturesque and the valley scenery is not quite a stunning as it is in Gangtey. The exterior design sensibility of the main building is that of a Bhutanese temple, and there is a garden behind it where many of the vegetables and fruits are grown for the kitchen there.


Amankora Punakha suspension bridge


Charming inner courtyard of Amankora Punakha

Compared to Bumthang and Gangtey, Punakha was positively buzzing with tourists, especially at Punakha Dzong, where we actually say some large tour buses in the parking lot. On our first night at the property, it was fully booked. Things suddenly changed the next day, as we were only two groups of guests at Amankora Punakha, and the hike up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten (temple) was devoid of any tourists with the exception of a Bhutanese family that had made the pilgrimage from somewhere in the East of the country. In Punakha, we changed things up a bit and elected to go water rafting down the Mo Chhu River. The Mo Chu is a graceful and easy going (perfect for novices like us), and has a stretch where you get great views of Punakha Dzong. You'll definitely get wet, but to call the experience white water rafting would be considered a strech by anyone's definition. Those who want more thrills should raft down the Pho Chhu River, which is said to be far more aggressive.


Mo Chhu river rafting


View of Punakha Dzong from a vista point


View of the valley from the top of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten (temple)

The private riverside BBQ dinner was wonderful and romantic. It's right by the river, and we had the executive chef on duty to grill us everything from ribs to seafood to chicken. We enjoyed our chat with the chef as well as the staff, including the chef telling us his story about how he got the job, the places he was sent for training purposes, and his thoughts on the future of Bhutan. The food was decent - just keep your expectations in check; don't expectin world-class BBQ - the meat was decent, but the the shrimp was chewy and rubbery. Still, it's romantic and a good value (it's $180 for a couple, IIRC, with lunch being slightly less... I'd recommend dinner, as it can get pretty hot in the middle of the day.)


Private riverside BBQ dinner


Private riverside BBQ dinner - lots of variety

We only spent one night at Amankora Thimphu, and we're happy with the decision. While Thimphu certainly has its charms and is unlike any other city we've ever visited, it's still... uhm... a big city, and far more gentrified than any other in Bhutan. We spent half a day walking around and people watching, and shopping for souvenirs and gifts as this was our last night in Bhutan. We declined our guide's suggestion to visit the giant golden Buddha statue - it was build about a decade ago and was bankrolled by some Singaporean tycoon - ho hum, and opted instead to check out the Takin, Bhutan's national animal and a cross between a sheep, goat and ox. It's goofy looking but super adorable. The Motithang Takin Preserve is only about 10 minutes from the lodge, and we were able to swing by the Preserve on the way to Paro Airport. Make sure to arrive as soon as it opens; we were the second guests to get there and spent about 45 minutes observing the beasts, but the place became really crowded by the time we left.


The 108 stupas at Dochula Pass, on the way from Punakha to Thimphu


Thimphu city center


Takin. Super goofy but super adorable

The Thimphu property is not the largest (16 rooms vs. Paro's 24), but it definitely felt more substantial and corporate, partly attributed to the comparatively massive dining area - Amankora Thimphu is much more centrally situated than the others, not to mention Thimphu itself is the nation's capital. Therefore, it attracts locals that stop by to have meals
there. Service from the staff was just as efficent and attentive, but lacked the warmth that we felt from the employees at the other properties.


Amankora Thimphu

Finally, the guide/driver... they were terrific, as you'd expect from people associated with Aman. Anticipatory, professional, never pushy, always insisting on carrying all of our belongings, and the driver was smooooth. In fact, he may have been the best driver we've ever had. No lurching of the vehicle, ever. He deftly managed the vehicle's brakes and steering wheels in a way that helped lessen the blow from the atrocious road conditions. He seemed to know every bump, puddle and pothole, too. If there's one slight nitpick, it's that the guide was a pretty straight-laced. He was not at all unfriendly; in fact, he went out of his way to ensure we had the time of our lives. However, I don't recall him saying or doing one humorous thing. I don't expect potty humor or sarcasm from Aman (and Bhutanese) guides, but we could've benefitted from a few good laughs now and then

Oh, one more thing. Six Senses is coming, and soon. They intend to open properties in the exact same five locations as Amankora. We took a look at its upcoming Punakha property, which is a stone's throw away from Uma Punakha (Como.) Our guide told us that Six Senses is expected to be strong competition for Amankora, and at a fraction of the cost. In fact, he admitted that he was being actively recruited to join Six Senses, along with many of the existing Aman staff. Only time will tell how all of this plays out, but in the end, both employees and tourists should benefit from the increased competition, which will hopefully lower prices while increasing staff compensation.

All in all, a great journey, and well worth the time, money and pain. We intend to return during festival season, but not until the road widening project has been fully completed. The government is saying 2018, but skeptics (among the locals) abound.

callmedtop

A truly excellent review - thanks for writing it, KI-NRT. Bhutan looks like an absolutely beautiful country, and I'm quite envious of your trip!

offerendum

aGreat to see something about Bhutan. The Takin is indeed goofy and adoreable.

SanDiego1K

That was a wonderful report, KI-NRT. I enjoyed every word and every picture.