Musken

Just back from 12 night in Bali, the first eight at Amankila followed by four nights at Amanusa, both pool villas. Lots and lots have been written about these resorts, so I will try to focus on new things and comparisons + some details about activities.

VILLAS
As mentioned, we were in pool villas at both resorts. We were upgraded first at Amankila since we agreed to move dates to accommodate a wedding and then upgraded also at Nusa, maybe since it was our 10th Aman - or just like that (very low occupancy as well). Very nice in any case.

The best thing about a pool villa at Amankila is that it offers max privacy as the villa terrace with pool, loungers and the outside daybed/dining table is walled. Do not really need a private pool here since there are so many other options, but still nice to have of course. We were in number 26 which was close to main building, very private, view of some roofs and trees and then sea in the distance, some noise from cars passing on the little road now and then, but no problem with that. The outside daybed is soooo comfortable and has good reading light when sitting outside at night. The outside dining table looks a bit too much like an outside desk instead of a dining table, but fine. Pool just the right temperature and loungers always set up with towels, water, sun cream etc. when we got back after breakfast. Inside we found everything very good as well. Bed very comfortable once you request a mattress topper. Bed for our son either in the main bedroom or across the bathtub, we chose the latter since we could then close the door and use the other room after he was asleep. Loved the shampoo/conditioner/soap – smelled so good. Lots of space for clothes in the wardrobe, missed some storage space for other things in the main room, but no big problem.

At Amanusa we were in number 25. Also private and pretty close to main buildings, maybe too much sun during the day, but always possible to find shade when moving loungers a bit. Pool felt even bigger than Amankila. It was almost too hot as the sun was shining constantly, so it was more for dipping than for swimming. Outside bale not as comfortable as the ones in Amankila (smaller, harder and less light at night for reading), but still a great place for lounging. Inside very beautiful with lots of space for storage. Bed only queen size but large enough. Bed for our son was set up in wardrobe/bathroom (no door to close between bedroom and bathroom/wardrobe and also no curtains to close to the outside shower, but he still slept very well). Loved the bathtub and the outside shower. Also here great toiletries.

FOOD/RESTAURANTS/ROOM SERVICE/SPECIAL MEALS
For 8 nights, the menu at Kila felt very limited, but we soon found out that they would make whatever we asked for. One evening our son wished for Mexican food, and they prepared a perfect meal for us in just a bit more than one hour. Perfect. Loved the home made granola for breakfast and the banana pancakes. Fantastic sate evening up in the hills in a bale one evening we will remember very long. A must do! Also we highly recommend eating outside once in the Bali Asli restaurant http://baliasli.com.au. We had lunch there during an excursion and the food, service and view was amazing. This is also where Kila send their guests for cooking classes which I am certain are great as well.

At Nusa the menu was a lot larger and also there were two venues to eat at night. We loved the Italian food and the Indonesian food, but found the Thai food to be a bit too bland and not a highlight. Maybe because we had this at Nyepi (silence day where everything is closed and quiet?) Fantastic sea food BBQ on the beach the last evening. Food, ambience, decoration wonderful. Again a must do.

SERVICE
The Amans at Bali are just perfect. No mistakes, smiling and friendly people, very quick service everywhere, perfect housekeeping etc. During excursions we got to know different employees every time we went out, which was fine on one hand (get to know more people), but still we would have preferred same driver/guide all the time like we had for example at Dari and at Ruya so that we would get to know him better. I am sure we could have requested this, but did not think about it until afterwards.
Exceeding expectations service example: Our son lost his (cheap) camera during trekking in the jungle. The guide went back on his own initiative and actually managed to find it (amazing as it was really dense jungle and a long trek).
Also we loved the lime water with ice and a basket for our dirty shoes waiting in the villa after trekking. The shoes came back looking like new!

SPA AND GYM
No real spa and gym at these two resorts, but we found the massage villas and gym villas to be perfectly OK. Treatments very good, too. I had massage and a sunburn treatment at Kila and massage plus facial at Nusa. The gym villa was never occupied so we got to use it whenever we wanted and found it nice that it was private – especially when I played personal trainer for my husband and showed him exercises he was not used to, i.e. I was better. ☺

BEACH AND POOLS
Absolutely loved the beach at Amanusa and the main pool at Kila – and their bales. I think I want a bale at home. ;-) Great service at beach with tons (I almost felt bad) of fresh towels, water, sun cream and little treats during the day. Also Kila beach and Nusa pool plus beach pool at Kila very good. Good to have so many places to change between.

WEATHER
March is still rainy season, and we did have some showers during most days, mostly in the afternoon or some quick showers in between the sunshine, but nothing that ruined our stay and activities – and we got great suntans as well and had lots of fun when it rained. Actually it was really too hot when the sky was blue, so we had to hide under a bale during these times, and liked it better with some clouds. No reason to stay at home during rainy times. We <3 Bali anyway!

ACTIVITIES
I have already written about special dinners and spa treatments, so now some words about the outside activities that we went on.

At Amankila we did two treks one of which ended with breakfast in the 2nd Amankila bale, one boat trip with snorkelling, the east Bali tour plus a visit to a temple to see a hindu ceremony. At Nusa we went to see the Ogoh-ogoh parade nearby the night before Nyepi ,visited the temple at Uluwatu including kecak dance performance and received a hindu blessing on our last morning.

Before talking more about these different outings, I would like to say that if you want to experience the real, traditional Bali and the Baliense culture + beautiful, green nature, I cannot talk highly enough of Amankila and east Bali. I found it even better than Amandari where we were 3 years ago. The Nusa Dua is much more developed and thus more of a place to relax and enjoy the resort/food and possibly shopping. We saw more tourists than locals once we were out, but during our activities from Kila we really had experiences as only tourists in between the locals.

The two treks from Amankila (Putung to Amankila through Manggis and Wates toAbian Canang with Picnic Breakfast) were both very scenic and very different. The first trek was only downhill, through small villages, over the beautiful rice fields and through the jungle along a small river and the second one first uphill passing lots of different tropical fruit trees, to a view point to see the mountain (covered in clouds the day we were there, but still beautiful) and then downhill passing a small temple where we met local women bringing offerings carried on their heads and passing isolated villages high up in the mountains ending at the spectacular bale for breakfast with a view. Both highly recommended.

The boat trip is nice as well. Traditional boat, service minded staff, lounging at the boat roof and snorkelling that surprised me very positively – lots of fish and nice coral. I almost did not go in having snorkelled so many wonderful places in the past but I am very glad I did. The light lunch afterwards was nice as well, but the sightseeing along the coast was nothing to write home about except it was nice to see Kila from the sea.

We also enjoyed the east Bali tour where we visited two water palaces, very different from each other and from other sights in Bali, as well as a traditional village. Also great to see the lush nature and local life along the road. Make sure to add lunch at Bali Asli that I mentioned above.

Finally, what I consider the highlight of our outings. We had read in the car on our way to Amankila that a special hindu ceremony would take place while we were there. We mentioned to the staff that we would like to see this, and they checked which temple we should visit for the best experience. The took us to a quite isolated temple in the jungle 25 minutes drive from Amankila. The driver helped us dressing properly in sarongs and we joined him and around 1.000 locals in a huge ceremony with music, performances, offerings and celebration. The driver did his best to explain everything for us, and acted as translator between the local boys and our son. All locals dressed in traditional clothing, women bringing offerings carried on their heads, children performing dances – and us in between all of this. Wow!

At nusa we went to see the Ogoh Ogoh parade on the night before Nyepi (silence day, Balinese new year). In the parade, local boys and men carry the big “monsters” (representing the dark spirit) and make lots of noise playing on drums etc. to scare away the evil. The large monsters are spectacular and it is worth while seeing. Close to nusa there were obviously more tourists seeing the parade, but these parades are held all over Bali as the local way of celebrating this day. The day after is the silence day where all beaches are closed, lighting only minimum (candle lights), no travelling outside of the hotel, airport closed etc. We spent the day around the pool, I had a massage and we had dinner under the stars in candle light in the evening.

Next late afternoon we went with a driver to the Uluwatu temple an hour before sunset too see the temple high on a cliff above the sea and to experience the Kecak dance performance. Hordes of tourists there, all dressed in sarong. The performance was good, authentic in the beginning but towards the end it was more of a show for tourists, nothing compared to the performance of this dance that we saw at Kila many years ago, but still nice costumes and song/dance.

Finally, the next morning we were dressed in very nice local dresses and taken to the temple inside the Kila resort where a hindu priest performed a blessing ceremony for us. A memorable experience as well.

* * *

All in all a great, relaxing and memorable holiday to my favorite island and hotel "chain". Loved both Kila and Nusa, Nusa is highly underrated I would say: More people should go there and stay longer! I will be back!

aa213bb

Absolutely brilliant report. Thank you so much for this.

Having now - I believe I've read - been to all of the Indonesian Amans, how would you rank them?

Musken

True that we have now visited all Indonesian Aman: Jiwo and Wana 11 years ago, Dari 3 years ago and Nusa and Kila now (plus Kila 11 years ago as well).

Ranking them overall I think would be impossible. They are all so lovely and different. Ranking on different criteria (rooms, pools, food etc.) could work but would not be fair since things might have changed (new chef etc.)

If I were to try, I would say that Jiwo is most spectacular design wise and has the best rooms, Nusa has the best beach, Kila the best pool(s) but Dari best private pools, Jiwo best private bale and Dari the best food. For activities I loved Kila this time and Dari, but the most memorable activity ever would still be the private sunrise trip to Borobudur with elephant ride on the way back when we were at Jiwo. Have to go back to Jiwo for more activities some time! Best private dinner would have to be dinner at beach at Kila many years ago (even more special than this years beach BBQ at Nusa this year - and it was our first ever dinner at a beach). At Wana I loved snorkelling and found it very special to sleep in a luxury tent (but since then this is not something just to be found there, of course). Service great at all, so not possible to decide on this.

Kagehitokiri

really incredible level of detail, as always

only aman. how might others try to overlap stays with same/similar?

has kila offering changed, or become more touristy even at kila?

Groombridge agreed re nusa

sounds like handled fairly well, and common offer from aman at least in bali

heh

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...li-beyond.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...ip-report.html
(http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...l#post19953007)

DavidO

I totally agree! Whether you're staying at an Aman or elsewhere, take the time to attend a religious ceremony during your time in Bali. It is a genuine taste of real Balinese culture. They're happening all the time, and your hotel can provide you with the proper dress to wear and take you there.

We visited such a ceremony while at Amandari, and it was the highlight of our entire time in Bali.

halibahs

Wonderful report with incredible details!
Kila is definitely the best kept secret for experiencing local Bali!
Can't wait to return after reading your report

NYBanker

Thanks for the post. V helpful.

Musken

Kage:
Re. witnessing hindu ceremonies: This can be done on your own or with a driver/guide from any hotel, tourists are welcome and no problem to take pictures etc. Only need to dress properly in sarong. We were alone as only tourists, but this was a coincidence or due to the fact that it was taking place quite far away from the normal tourist places.
Re. dance performance at Kila: They organise different complimentary dance performances, larger ones like kecak only during full occupancy. Very low occupancy when we were there (four to seven villas occupied during the 8 nights stay), so no dance performances. I am absolutely sure that these performances are still traditional, and not "tourist shows" like towards the end at Uluwatu.

Ericka

This is great, Musken. I love your comparison between the two resorts and the specific examples of how Kila is more cultural and less touristy than Nusa.

It sounds like your son has a lot of fun on these trips. It's wonderful you are able to travel as a family.

Musken

Thanks, Erica.

Yes, our son had lots of fun this time as well. No other kids at Kila or Nusa, and very low occupancy, meaning he had the whole beach or pool for himself. Especially he loved swimming when it rained cats and dogs. There were balls and water/beach toys available at both beaches. At Nusa he got a traditional kite to play with (gift upon arrival) which was great as well. The beach boys where there to show him how to do it, if needed. They had kids snorkel equipment available at the boat trip at Kila and kids size tennis rackets at Nusa. Also kid sized bathrobe at both resorts.

During excursions where we were the only tourists, he felt a bit strange in the beginning since lots of local kids would stare or point at him, but as soon as he realised that they found a foreign boy (with a long hair cut - not short as the Bali boys - they have to cut their hair short when they start school) exciting and not strange, he had fun with them.

Other kids points:
- Kids menus available with standard kids food and local specialities, reasonably priced
- Half price for him at excursions/activitites
- Free Wifi even in Aman cars and at the beach (plus everywhere else) meaning he could play on his iPad whenever he wanted
- Kids DVDs available
- Special decoration of his bed one evening in Kila with towel animal which he loved even if he is getting a big boy; They should do that more often! Actually that is one thing I think they should consider in general: turn down gifts for kids. Every night there would be something on the parent's bed, never something on his bed. He got a T-shirt once, but it was on our bed. It would not have to be big things, and they could give to him instead of to us - or give him "our" things when appropriate - for example sticks to eat with or local cakes (sometimes I managed to sneak in and put our gift on his bed so that he would believe it was for him). We should of course just have asked for this, but always forgot the next morning, but they should change this in general. If the kid is happy, the parents are!

FlyerEC

Thanks Musken

2 years ago , both my niece ( 6 ) & nephew ( 10 ) received some tokens on their ' beds ' at both Kila & Nusa.. Including towel animals. Had private kids cooking class at Kila to give us adults a break. Can't recall if it was complimentary - they really had fun. Was it pizza & ?? . They basically cooked their meal No time at Nusa .. They were golfing with grandparents/parents.. But nephew joined me briefly at private soufflé class - swapped one of my activities .
And last year, at Kila 's 20 th, had my older US niece ( 20 ) bunk with us on the day bed , now she's a proud owner of a 20th anniversary limited edition T- shirt .

Musken

You are right, there were a number of kids activities offered, but since he was only kid there, he rather did things with us. Learning traditional dance and preparing offerings comes to mind (more for girls, maybe) as well as cooking (I think), biking and kite making.

Ericka

Kagehitokiri

am i wrong to assume FS for example would charge a lot more and might not handle as well? also sounded like another example of kila's good location.

Musken

For excursions with driver who also would be the guide, there was a fixed per hour rate at Amankila. Not expensive compared to European taxi prices but FAR about what you would pay for taxi or other kind of car with driver at Bali. Much better, though. Knowledgeable, speaking English well, drinks and cold towels, brought sarongs when needed etc. We have experienced same level of drivers at FS as well but have never tried to ask at a FS to find and take us to a specific local religious ceremony. However, we have had FS drivers stop at markets with us, show us sights etc.

This was not an Aman activity in terms of being something one would be able to book. This specific ceremony was huge and would take place not even every year. It was a whole day event, really big, but there are similar and smaller ceremonies "all the time" at Bali that one can witness, even inside the hotel areas (offerings and hotel temples etc.) What Aman does really well at Dari for example is that they are very closely connected to the local village where many employees live and they let tourist take place during very small and intimate local ceremonies in this village, almost as part of the village people. We would for example go to the local temple to give offerings after the cooking class at Bali. This is something that no FS does - at least not the ones that I have been to. But find and take you to a larger ceremony, I guess they could have done. But they have never been as good as Amans in terms of making you aware of these things. I remember being at FS Jimbaran during Ogoh-ogoh and nyepi three years ago. We saw the Ogoh-ogoh being carried around and out of the FS by the staff, asked reception wether we should go and have a look at the happening at night. We were not really told what to expect and ended up not going (wrong!)