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Old Dec 28, 2014, 6:36 am
  #1  
formerly known as ravishah
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Thoughts on my Japan trip

Hello all,

The better half and I are heading to Japan for the first time in a couple of months from the UK. Having gone through the forum and researching online using Japan guide etc the below is what I am thinking based on what we like to do which is also included below. Any thoughts on whether we are going to too many places for our first trip? We anticipate this being an action packed holiday.

What we want
- First time in Japan
- In our early thirties
- To see the sights and sounds of the big city
- Really into temples and heritage sites
- Bit of countryside e.g. see a mountain and lake
- Visit an Onsen
- See Sumo wrestling
- Massive foodies – but the better half is only a pescatarian (even then quite particular about the seafood she eats)

Land Tokyo 1st Mar morning

Tokyo 5 nights – 1,2,3,4,5 (with day trip to Nikko and one to Disney Sea?)
Hakkone 1 night – 6 (in an onsen/rkyon) - could we do this in Kyoto?
Kyoto 4 nights – 7,8,9,10 (with day trip to Nara)
Mt Koyo 1 night - wife wants to stay with the monks
Osaka 2 nights – 12,13 (day trip to Hiroshima?)

Take off 14th Morning from Osaka

Question for the places we are only staying 1 night can we send the bulk of our luggage ahead to the next hotel and just take small day bags? We travel pretty light anyway so not a huge issue.

Thanks in advance, also I am happy to provide additional info if I can.
rollingdeep is offline  
Old Dec 28, 2014, 8:27 am
  #2  
formerly known as Tad's Broiled Steaks
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For a bit of a nuanced wholesale (food) market visit in Tokyo - the usual suspect is the user-unfriendly Tsukiji market - try Ota's.

Although I haven't been, it's on the list.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 9:09 am
  #3  
formerly known as ravishah
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Originally Posted by BuildingMyBento
For a bit of a nuanced wholesale (food) market visit in Tokyo - the usual suspect is the user-unfriendly Tsukiji market - try Ota's.

Although I haven't been, it's on the list.
Thanks a lot - we are planning on the before dawn wakeup to go to the fish sale - but maybe this will be something we can check out instead or alongside.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 10:28 am
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For your planning, the Grand Sumo tournament runs from March 8 through March 22 at the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium in Osaka, so it looks like you will be there at the right time. Osaka is a bit less convenient and probably more crowded on weekends than the main Kokugikan arena in Tokyo but weekdays shouldn't be too bad. You might want to see sumo as one of your "Kyoto days" to free up the short Osaka stay for other things. Or, visit Hiroshima from Kyoto and use one "Osaka day" for sumo. Kyoto and Osaka are only a bit over 1/2 hour apart by train.

A full day at the sumo stadium can be pretty wearing for westerners. Matches run all day long, starting with the lowest ranked rookies in the morning. I prefer to obtain my ticket(s) in the morning, while walk-ups are still available, but do other things until mid-afternoon. Returning around 2:00 lets me see the second-ranked juryo matches as well as the top-flight makuuchi bouts. If you are only interested in the top matches, the wrestlers enter the stadium at about 3:30 pm and start their bouts about 4:00 pm. It will all be over about 6:00 pm. Rather than trust to walk-up availability, your hotel may be able to help secure tickets for you. Once in the stadium, there should be a fairly obvious kiosk where you can rent a radio/headphone set to listen to the English-language simulcast commentary. The in-stadium commentary and announcements are all in Japanese. Your deposit is returned, less a small fee, when you return the radio.

I like to indulge in the stereotypical sumo day by purchasing a bento lunch box and beer to consume while watching the fights. I have no idea how that would work for someone who is very selective on dietary matters. It might be better to arrange meals elsewhere. As one who eats whatever the locals do wherever I go, I confess to a certain befuddlement about why overly selective diners would even come to Japan, where the local food is such a big part of the experience, but that is for each to decide for him/herself.

Yes, you can use a takkyubin service to send luggage from Tokyo to Kyoto and from Kyoto to Osaka, using an overnight bag for the one-night stays at Hakone and Koya-san. Your hotel should be able to arrange that.

It looks like the 7-day Japan Rail Pass will pencil out for you and actually save some money. The trick would be to have it activated for the day you travel from Tokyo to Hakone on day 6, or even a day earlier if you plan a day trip from Tokyo, say to Nikko. That means it would expire while you were in Osaka and the trip out to KIX would be out-of-pocket, as would the trip into Tokyo from either NRT or HND. You need to ensure that the 7-day period encompasses both your trip from Tokyo or Hakone to Kyoto and the return trip Kyoto/Osaka to Hiroshima and vv, all of which will be on the more expensive shinkansen (bullet train.)

There are fast, comfortable train links to/from NRT-Tokyo and Osaka-KIX. Don't even consider taxis.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 10:54 am
  #5  
 
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abmjjr. Nice description of sumo. I always buy my tix from overseas from Jeff at www.buysumotickets.com. I also prefer the boxes and I think, if like tokyo, OP might be able to get a 4 person box but only pay for two. Also, make sure you get a radio and tune into the English broadcast. Again, not sure if they have this in Osaka but it was great in Tokyo. I too partake in the libations. I just wish I could figure out how to get the fancy in seat service. And I want to sit ring side one day but with our child, that's a horrible idea.

As to the whole foodie thing, I actually hate the use of that term, I'll say you will need to spend much time to make sure you will be able to communicate your others restrictions. It will be a challenge.

Just my two cents but I'd rather go to Hiroshima for a night than a night in osaka and spend the extra night in Kyoto and just day trip to osaka. It's a second trip to Japan IMO.

Although disney sea is unique, I'd do Tokyo disney but both are fun. I'm a more traditionalist with disney parks though. I think Nikko is a must day trip and well worth the time.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 11:39 am
  #6  
formerly known as ravishah
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Originally Posted by abmj-jr
For your planning, the Grand Sumo tournament runs from March 8 through March 22 at the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium in Osaka, so it looks like you will be there at the right time. Osaka is a bit less convenient and probably more crowded on weekends than the main Kokugikan arena in Tokyo but weekdays shouldn't be too bad. You might want to see sumo as one of your "Kyoto days" to free up the short Osaka stay for other things. Or, visit Hiroshima from Kyoto and use one "Osaka day" for sumo. Kyoto and Osaka are only a bit over 1/2 hour apart by train.

A full day at the sumo stadium can be pretty wearing for westerners. Matches run all day long, starting with the lowest ranked rookies in the morning. I prefer to obtain my ticket(s) in the morning, while walk-ups are still available, but do other things until mid-afternoon. Returning around 2:00 lets me see the second-ranked juryo matches as well as the top-flight makuuchi bouts. If you are only interested in the top matches, the wrestlers enter the stadium at about 3:30 pm and start their bouts about 4:00 pm. It will all be over about 6:00 pm. Rather than trust to walk-up availability, your hotel may be able to help secure tickets for you. Once in the stadium, there should be a fairly obvious kiosk where you can rent a radio/headphone set to listen to the English-language simulcast commentary. The in-stadium commentary and announcements are all in Japanese. Your deposit is returned, less a small fee, when you return the radio.

I like to indulge in the stereotypical sumo day by purchasing a bento lunch box and beer to consume while watching the fights. I have no idea how that would work for someone who is very selective on dietary matters. It might be better to arrange meals elsewhere. As one who eats whatever the locals do wherever I go, I confess to a certain befuddlement about why overly selective diners would even come to Japan, where the local food is such a big part of the experience, but that is for each to decide for him/herself.

Yes, you can use a takkyubin service to send luggage from Tokyo to Kyoto and from Kyoto to Osaka, using an overnight bag for the one-night stays at Hakone and Koya-san. Your hotel should be able to arrange that.

It looks like the 7-day Japan Rail Pass will pencil out for you and actually save some money. The trick would be to have it activated for the day you travel from Tokyo to Hakone on day 6, or even a day earlier if you plan a day trip from Tokyo, say to Nikko. That means it would expire while you were in Osaka and the trip out to KIX would be out-of-pocket, as would the trip into Tokyo from either NRT or HND. You need to ensure that the 7-day period encompasses both your trip from Tokyo or Hakone to Kyoto and the return trip Kyoto/Osaka to Hiroshima and vv, all of which will be on the more expensive shinkansen (bullet train.)

There are fast, comfortable train links to/from NRT-Tokyo and Osaka-KIX. Don't even consider taxis.
Thanks a lot - really helpful info - will def try and get some tickets in advance.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 11:47 am
  #7  
formerly known as ravishah
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Originally Posted by mkjr
abmjjr. Nice description of sumo. I always buy my tix from overseas from Jeff at www.buysumotickets.com. I also prefer the boxes and I think, if like tokyo, OP might be able to get a 4 person box but only pay for two. Also, make sure you get a radio and tune into the English broadcast. Again, not sure if they have this in Osaka but it was great in Tokyo. I too partake in the libations. I just wish I could figure out how to get the fancy in seat service. And I want to sit ring side one day but with our child, that's a horrible idea.

As to the whole foodie thing, I actually hate the use of that term, I'll say you will need to spend much time to make sure you will be able to communicate your others restrictions. It will be a challenge.

Just my two cents but I'd rather go to Hiroshima for a night than a night in osaka and spend the extra night in Kyoto and just day trip to osaka. It's a second trip to Japan IMO.

Although disney sea is unique, I'd do Tokyo disney but both are fun. I'm a more traditionalist with disney parks though. I think Nikko is a must day trip and well worth the time.
Thanks a lot again did you get the radio at the sumo place?

Given the Sea concept is not that wide in the Disney landscape thought it would be something worth doing as we can get over to the US for the main Disney parks quite easily.

As for the foodie concept - not quite sure what you meant I realise she doesn't eat meat but given we have travelled to many places I am sure we will survive and find some great food - however we are planning on trying to learn the correct words and failing that some little cards that show what the requirements are to help us out.

With Osaka - given we fly from there I thought it might be easier to stay there - also I think the hotels are a bit cheaper but will look into an extra day in Kyoto.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 12:44 pm
  #8  
 
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Originally Posted by mkjr
... And I want to sit ring side one day but with our child, that's a horrible idea. ...
Those seats tend to be reserved for what we would call season ticket holders. There are also restrictions on who can sit there based on ability to dodge or "absorb" the hits when rikishi come flying out of the ring. It is very difficult for a casual, non-Japanese attendee to sit ring-side.
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Old Dec 28, 2014, 12:50 pm
  #9  
 
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Originally Posted by ravishah
... With Osaka - given we fly from there I thought it might be easier to stay there - also I think the hotels are a bit cheaper but will look into an extra day in Kyoto.
Either would work but you should know that the "Haruka" airport express train from Kyoto to KIX takes about 75 minutes while the ride from Osaka varies by where in Osaka you are staying but ranges from about 40 minutes to 70 minutes. The difference in time in pretty negligible.
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 8:27 am
  #10  
 
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Originally Posted by abmj-jr
Those seats tend to be reserved for what we would call season ticket holders. There are also restrictions on who can sit there based on ability to dodge or "absorb" the hits when rikishi come flying out of the ring. It is very difficult for a casual, non-Japanese attendee to sit ring-side.
You can buy ring side and even though my child is of age, I would still not sit ring side with her. Yes, the rules and warnings are posted on the ticket pia site.

http://sumo.pia.jp/en/sumo01.jsp#seat

And based on my discussions with Jeff, he does get ring side for some guests.

OP the radios are provided at the venue. I recall they don't broadcast the whole time but the last two rounds. There is info on thr sumo Japan site.
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 1:23 pm
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The radio (never got it) broadcasts the NHK TV English commentary, which is only available for the last "round", namely the top makuuchi division starting at 4 pm.

To get the food and drink service then you have to go to one of the booths in a long hallway with lanterns. I think it may have to be ordered in advance. Search for sumo annaijo, which I think means information place.
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 12:29 pm
  #12  
 
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When I went to the Osaka tourney about 9 or 10 years back, my friend and I were able to get a "box" to ourselves, day-of. We didn't know about bento reservations, so we loaded up on food and drink at a nearby conbini (think 7-11 on steroids) since you can't re-enter the stadium once you leave. I agree that you should just go for the last, most pro group.

You have a very solid itin. I would consider spending one Osaka day in Kobe instead (easily reachable from Osaka or Kyoto, especially if you have a railpass)- I find Osaka to be similar to Tokyo, and Kobe has a very different "vibe." It might make sense to even base yourself either in Kyoto or Osaka for the entire Kyoto/Osaka stay, and alternate between those and Kobe to break up the Kyoto/Nara part. Reason being, you could find yourself "templed out" after 2-3 days straight, and breaking it up a bit might help appreciate them more. Depends how you like to travel.

If you are still in Japan March 27, Himeji Castle is scheduled to fully re-open on that date. It will probably be abnormally full of local tourists that first week, but it is really worth seeing if you have a chance.

The other option to consider (mentioned above) is Hiroshima/Miyajima. I'm not a huge fan of Hiroshima city, but the A-bomb-related sites and museum are worth seeing. Google Miyajima, but it is a breathtaking site to spend at least a half-day.
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Old Jan 5, 2015, 11:54 am
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ravishah
Hello all,

The better half and I are heading to Japan for the first time in a couple of months from the UK. Having gone through the forum and researching online using Japan guide etc the below is what I am thinking based on what we like to do which is also included below. Any thoughts on whether we are going to too many places for our first trip? We anticipate this being an action packed holiday.

What we want
- First time in Japan
- In our early thirties
- To see the sights and sounds of the big city
- Really into temples and heritage sites
- Bit of countryside e.g. see a mountain and lake
- Visit an Onsen
- See Sumo wrestling
- Massive foodies – but the better half is only a pescatarian (even then quite particular about the seafood she eats)

Land Tokyo 1st Mar morning

Tokyo 5 nights – 1,2,3,4,5 (with day trip to Nikko and one to Disney Sea?)

Hakkone 1 night – 6 (in an onsen/rkyon) - could we do this in Kyoto?

Kyoto 4 nights – 7,8,9,10 (with day trip to Nara)

Mt Koyo 1 night - wife wants to stay with the monks

Osaka 2 nights – 12,13 (day trip to Hiroshima?)

Take off 14th Morning from Osaka

Question for the places we are only staying 1 night can we send the bulk of our luggage ahead to the next hotel and just take small day bags? We travel pretty light anyway so not a huge issue.

Thanks in advance, also I am happy to provide additional info if I can.
Ok, I will try and provide some help based on my very similar itinerary in October (Nights 1-8 Tokyo, Night 9 Hakone, Night 10-12 Kyoto, Night 13 Mt Koya, Night 14-15 Tokyo then home).

Tokyo - I can't comment on Nikko or Disney Sea, as I did neither. I did try and go to the fish market, but our self proclaimed expert got the times wrong, so we missed the auction. We did get sushi at around 4am from one place, and I am told it was very good (I don't eat meat or fish). There are thousands of food options for those who eat meat, and almost as many for those who eat fish, especially if she is ok with fish broth / fish flakes that you may not even notice. I don't eat any fish at all, so my options were much more limited. The little 'hole in the wall places did great food according to my omnivore friends, everything from sushi to tempura to noodle places, at every price point. I found the department store basements fascinating food wise. If you post where you are staying I am sure people can recommend good restaurants in the area.

Hakkone - I stayed in a ryokan and really enjoyed the experience, although in retrospect it was probably overpriced for what it was. Dinner was included, and the lovely concierge at my Tokyo hotel called the ryokan for me and explained my dietary restrictions, and they were wonderful about making changes (this is not the norm I am told). The dinenr had about 20 different dishes, it was a real adventure, some was great (amazing tofu) some not so much. Breakfast there was the choice of western (eggs and toast) or Japanese. There were shared indoor and outdoor hot spring baths, and also a private bath you could book out as family / friends. Loved having a nice hot soak. Our ryokan also had a private bathroom in the accommodation, but many do not.

The concierge also wrote a card out explaining what I did and did not eat, that I could show restaurants, and I learnt the Japanese phrases as well.

We took the shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara, then the train into Hakone, left our bags with the ryokan then hopped back on the train and did the Hakone loop (train, cable car, rope way, boat, bus) stopping at the open air museum (loved it), and at the mid way point on the rope way where we ate the black eggs! Sadly Fuji was playing hide and seek.

The next day after breakfast we headed back to Odawara, and took the shinkansen to Kyoto, where we stayed 3 nights. I think there are ryokan options but I stayed in a fairly function hotel near the main station (I really didn't spend any time other than sleeping in the room, as there was so much to see).

I did a day trip to Nara, which was amazing, really interesting (just watch out for the deer!) On the way back, by train, we stopped at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum which was interesting, and then back on the train for a couple of stops to Fushimi Inari-taisha which was very pretty.

Another day in Kyoto I had pre-booked tickets for the inside tour of the Imperial Palace (you need to book up several weeks / months in advance) and found the tour very informative. Then took the bus to the Golden Palace, which was my favourite of the trip - so pretty. After that we went down by bus to Nijo Castle, very pleasant to walk around.

We also went to the Gion district for a wander around, and to Yasaka Jinja Shrine, Sanjusangendo Temple, and Nishiki Market - basically a street full of food options. Kyoto Station is also very vibrant, food options, grocery store, department stores, a roof garden, steps that light up, and a walkway across the top which gives good views of the city.

After Kyoto we went to Mt Koya, where we stayed in a monastery - no food issues here, everything is vegan. Similar to the ryokan, hot spring baths, food int eh room, etc. but less pricey. Walked the length of the town, the cemetery is fascinating, and the large pagoda was very pretty. I was a little 'templed out' by this point tho, I have to admit.

I sent my luggage Tokyo - Kyoto and just took an overnight bag to Hakkone, same in reverse for Mt. Koya. Very simple, the bell boy helped me fill in the slips, and cost, IIRC, around $14 each way per case. With at least one of the companies you can track your bag on their online site.
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Old Jan 7, 2015, 4:03 am
  #14  
formerly known as ravishah
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Originally Posted by Pureboy
When I went to the Osaka tourney about 9 or 10 years back, my friend and I were able to get a "box" to ourselves, day-of. We didn't know about bento reservations, so we loaded up on food and drink at a nearby conbini (think 7-11 on steroids) since you can't re-enter the stadium once you leave. I agree that you should just go for the last, most pro group.

You have a very solid itin. I would consider spending one Osaka day in Kobe instead (easily reachable from Osaka or Kyoto, especially if you have a railpass)- I find Osaka to be similar to Tokyo, and Kobe has a very different "vibe." It might make sense to even base yourself either in Kyoto or Osaka for the entire Kyoto/Osaka stay, and alternate between those and Kobe to break up the Kyoto/Nara part. Reason being, you could find yourself "templed out" after 2-3 days straight, and breaking it up a bit might help appreciate them more. Depends how you like to travel.

If you are still in Japan March 27, Himeji Castle is scheduled to fully re-open on that date. It will probably be abnormally full of local tourists that first week, but it is really worth seeing if you have a chance.

The other option to consider (mentioned above) is Hiroshima/Miyajima. I'm not a huge fan of Hiroshima city, but the A-bomb-related sites and museum are worth seeing. Google Miyajima, but it is a breathtaking site to spend at least a half-day.
Thanks a lot - is the Hiroshima trip possible to do in a day from either Osaka or Kyoto without an overnight stay? This might be a good way to break it up a little.
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Old Jan 7, 2015, 4:04 am
  #15  
formerly known as ravishah
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Originally Posted by emma69
Ok, I will try and provide some help based on my very similar itinerary in October (Nights 1-8 Tokyo, Night 9 Hakone, Night 10-12 Kyoto, Night 13 Mt Koya, Night 14-15 Tokyo then home).

Tokyo - I can't comment on Nikko or Disney Sea, as I did neither. I did try and go to the fish market, but our self proclaimed expert got the times wrong, so we missed the auction. We did get sushi at around 4am from one place, and I am told it was very good (I don't eat meat or fish). There are thousands of food options for those who eat meat, and almost as many for those who eat fish, especially if she is ok with fish broth / fish flakes that you may not even notice. I don't eat any fish at all, so my options were much more limited. The little 'hole in the wall places did great food according to my omnivore friends, everything from sushi to tempura to noodle places, at every price point. I found the department store basements fascinating food wise. If you post where you are staying I am sure people can recommend good restaurants in the area.

Hakkone - I stayed in a ryokan and really enjoyed the experience, although in retrospect it was probably overpriced for what it was. Dinner was included, and the lovely concierge at my Tokyo hotel called the ryokan for me and explained my dietary restrictions, and they were wonderful about making changes (this is not the norm I am told). The dinenr had about 20 different dishes, it was a real adventure, some was great (amazing tofu) some not so much. Breakfast there was the choice of western (eggs and toast) or Japanese. There were shared indoor and outdoor hot spring baths, and also a private bath you could book out as family / friends. Loved having a nice hot soak. Our ryokan also had a private bathroom in the accommodation, but many do not.

The concierge also wrote a card out explaining what I did and did not eat, that I could show restaurants, and I learnt the Japanese phrases as well.

We took the shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara, then the train into Hakone, left our bags with the ryokan then hopped back on the train and did the Hakone loop (train, cable car, rope way, boat, bus) stopping at the open air museum (loved it), and at the mid way point on the rope way where we ate the black eggs! Sadly Fuji was playing hide and seek.

The next day after breakfast we headed back to Odawara, and took the shinkansen to Kyoto, where we stayed 3 nights. I think there are ryokan options but I stayed in a fairly function hotel near the main station (I really didn't spend any time other than sleeping in the room, as there was so much to see).

I did a day trip to Nara, which was amazing, really interesting (just watch out for the deer!) On the way back, by train, we stopped at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum which was interesting, and then back on the train for a couple of stops to Fushimi Inari-taisha which was very pretty.

Another day in Kyoto I had pre-booked tickets for the inside tour of the Imperial Palace (you need to book up several weeks / months in advance) and found the tour very informative. Then took the bus to the Golden Palace, which was my favourite of the trip - so pretty. After that we went down by bus to Nijo Castle, very pleasant to walk around.

We also went to the Gion district for a wander around, and to Yasaka Jinja Shrine, Sanjusangendo Temple, and Nishiki Market - basically a street full of food options. Kyoto Station is also very vibrant, food options, grocery store, department stores, a roof garden, steps that light up, and a walkway across the top which gives good views of the city.

After Kyoto we went to Mt Koya, where we stayed in a monastery - no food issues here, everything is vegan. Similar to the ryokan, hot spring baths, food int eh room, etc. but less pricey. Walked the length of the town, the cemetery is fascinating, and the large pagoda was very pretty. I was a little 'templed out' by this point tho, I have to admit.

I sent my luggage Tokyo - Kyoto and just took an overnight bag to Hakkone, same in reverse for Mt. Koya. Very simple, the bell boy helped me fill in the slips, and cost, IIRC, around $14 each way per case. With at least one of the companies you can track your bag on their online site.
thank you so much this is an awesome details of what you did - will def start to think of booking thinks - we are heading there in 8 weeks and still to book hotels and attractions.
rollingdeep is offline  


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