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Old Jun 12, 2016, 8:58 pm
  #1  
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Four weeks in Italy

We are 2 couples who will be touring Italy this fall for four weeks from the middle of Sept. I am doing the travel planning and have already booked hotels for our visit. Some are chain hotels which I booked because I'm staying on points. Otherwise, I booked smaller hotels or B&B's. I've read several posts about not trusting TripAdvisor reviews so I relied on other on-line sources for info. I would appreciate any feedback on our itinerary and hotel choices. I chose flying into Milan and back from Rome solely because of availability of business class reward tickets.

- Fly into Milan, staying at Park Hyatt (one couple) and Hotel Straf (2nd couple) for 3 nights. At the Hyatt, we have the use of bicycles. Is Milan a bicycle-friendly city?
- Rent car at MXP and drive to Varenna where we're staying at the Hotel Milano for 2 nights.
- Drive to Venice, staying at the Westin Europa & Regina for 4 nights.
- Drive to CinqueTerre, staying at Casa Lorenza in Riomaggiore for 3 nights.
- Drive to Florence, staying at San Firenze Suites for 3 nights.
- Drive to Borgo alle Vigne, staying at the HGVC resort there for 5 nights.
- Drive to Praiano, staying at Villa Maria Luiga for 3 nights.
- Drive to Rome, return car to FCO, staying at the Hilton Cavalieri (one couple) and Antica Dimora Contessa Arrivabene (2nd couple) for 5 nights. Then fly back to Canada from FCO.

Also, I plan on arranging for city tours for Florence, Venice, Pompeii and Rome. Thoughts on using private tour guides vs using a guidebook and wandering?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Jun 13, 2016, 11:06 pm
  #2  
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Hi. Sounds like a fun trip. My wife and I did a similar itinerary in 2012.
We flew into MXP and spent that first night at the airport Sheraton. Then rented the car (for drop off at FCO) and drove to Varenna, Venice, Spello (Umbria), Siena, and Rome.
A couple of tips about the car. Get a small car if you want to visit small villages and especially hill towns. Our Fiat 500 had bare clearance on many of the village streets in Umbria and Tuscany. Also, and I can't emphasize this enough, take the absolute fullest coverage offered by the rental agency. The coverage that absolves you of any and all financial responsibly, no matter what. Do not count on your insurance or a credit card secondary coverage (many won't cover Italy anyway). This coverage doubled the rental cost of our Fiat at Hertz. But in one hill town I scraped the right side rocker panel and when I turned the car in, the clerk told me the repair cost would have been 1100 to 1500 euro, but was no cost to me. Also even the most minor scratch is counted against you're rental. Again, take the hit and buy the coverage.
Okay, in Varenna we stayed in Casa Rossa, one of the lakeside villas run by Albergo Milano. Our room shared a balcony overlooking the lake with the room next door. If you're travelling with another couple, the two rooms might be a good option. You have to walk up the Contrada stairs to go to the main hotel for bkfst. But in exchange you're right on the lake.
We loved the property and the restaurant La Vista was a highlight. The hotel offers private parking by reservation. Take this offer. Parking is difficult and expensive in town.
Varenna is our favorite Lake town. Charming and not overbuilt. Extremely picturesque. Good restaurants (we tried Mon Amour and Cavatappi besides La Vista), great passagiatta, and extremely quiet and romantic after dark. Conveniently located on the Lake Ferry lines so the other lake towns like Bellagio are an enjoyable day trip.
We stayed 3 nights and regretted leaving.
Have you driven to Venice? If it's your first time, spend a few minutes on Google Maps and street view to familiarize yourself with Tronchetto. Take a picture of your parking spot so you can find it when you come back in 4 days. On your way out of the structure look for the ACTV office and pick up Vaporetto passes. Its 7.5 euros a single trip, but with the pass you'll find yourself hopping on the vaporetti to go everywhere. On our first visit to Venice we selected a hotel close as possible to a Vaporetto stop and avoided getting lost in the maze that is Venice while dragging roller bags over stepped bridge after stepped bridge on the most crowded streets in Europe.
We love Venice and are returning next year and renting a place for a couple of weeks. Try ai Mercanti, al Paradiso, and ae Sconte. Great Venetian restaurants. Wander around after dark. Let yourself get lost. It's a unique place.
Last logistical tip - arrange a private car from FCO to your hotel in Rome after you drop your car. I haven't been to FCO since the fire so I can't really tell you the easiest way to organize this, but the car firm surely will. We used airportshuttle.it, booked online, emailed the company to arrange pickup spot at FCO. It wasn't terribly expensive and well worth it. Also, taxis in Central Rome are a deal. Maybe the most reasonable taxi fares in Europe.
Hope these tips help.Enjoy the trip.

Last edited by rickg523; Jun 14, 2016 at 9:41 pm Reason: Fact check
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Old Jun 14, 2016, 10:33 am
  #3  
 
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Italy

We went on a cruise from Venice and when we came back we took the train to Florence. We stayed at a wonderful hotel in a great location, Ponte Vecchio Suites and Spa - Florence. Amazing restaurant Quatro Leoni http://www.4leoni.com/), a few blocks away was an awesome geletaria- Santa Trinita. (over the Santa Trinita Bridge)

http://www.gelateriasantatrinita.it/index_ing.html

Have a marvelous time. Please share your thoughts of the HGVC property..
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 1:55 am
  #4  
 
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Originally Posted by greatwhitenorth
We are 2 couples who will be touring Italy this fall for four weeks from the middle of Sept. I am doing the travel planning and have already booked hotels for our visit. Some are chain hotels which I booked because I'm staying on points. Otherwise, I booked smaller hotels or B&B's. I've read several posts about not trusting TripAdvisor reviews so I relied on other on-line sources for info. I would appreciate any feedback on our itinerary and hotel choices. I chose flying into Milan and back from Rome solely because of availability of business class reward tickets.

- Fly into Milan, staying at Park Hyatt (one couple) and Hotel Straf (2nd couple) for 3 nights. At the Hyatt, we have the use of bicycles. Is Milan a bicycle-friendly city?
- Rent car at MXP and drive to Varenna where we're staying at the Hotel Milano for 2 nights.
- Drive to Venice, staying at the Westin Europa & Regina for 4 nights.
- Drive to CinqueTerre, staying at Casa Lorenza in Riomaggiore for 3 nights.
- Drive to Florence, staying at San Firenze Suites for 3 nights.
- Drive to Borgo alle Vigne, staying at the HGVC resort there for 5 nights.
- Drive to Praiano, staying at Villa Maria Luiga for 3 nights.
- Drive to Rome, return car to FCO, staying at the Hilton Cavalieri (one couple) and Antica Dimora Contessa Arrivabene (2nd couple) for 5 nights. Then fly back to Canada from FCO.

Also, I plan on arranging for city tours for Florence, Venice, Pompeii and Rome. Thoughts on using private tour guides vs using a guidebook and wandering?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Nice itinerary, but are you sure you want to do it like this?
-You sure you want a car in Milan? Parking is difficult and expensive, and it has some of the worst traffic in Europe. Milan is not a very picturesque place. Just a big, industrial city. Unless you are going to the opera, or for fashion, a specific business purpose, or to see the Last Supper, it's a place most people avoid, or just spend one day. More time in Varenna would be time much better spent.
- You sure you want a car in Varenna? There's minimal parking, unless the hotel has a spot or two. Lake Como is much better than Milan for just being awesome and taking your breath away. It's only about 5 euros and 45-50 minutes by train from Milan right to Varenna. Day trips on lake Como are done by the ferries that crisscross everywhere, not by car. From Varenna to Bellagio is about a ten minute ferry ride. Crossing the lake to Menaggio, etc, these are all better than station in urban and ugly Milan.
- You sure you want a car in Venice? There are no cars in Venice. You'd have to just leave it in a giant parking structure just outside of Venice. Cars are routinely broken into their. From Milan to Venice is only about 90 minutes or so by train. The parking lot (Tronchetto) is usually full, nasty, dirty. Not a nice experience, then you still have to get to Venice.
- You sure you want to drive to Cinque Terre? There's no parking in Riomaggiore. you have to park in a State Parking lot outside of it, and take a shuttle to town. The way to get from town to town on Cinque Terre is by the frequent local trains. There's almost no parking anywhere in Cinque Terre, except for Monterosso, the least scenic town.
- You sure you want to drive to Florence? You're not allowed in there without a permit. A robot will take a picture of your license plate, and you will get an expensive ticket. Maybe multiple ones, unless you get your hotel to alert the parking authorities that you will be driving through to a hotel. There's no driving around in Florence. All these places your going, your car will just be parked.
- You sure you want to stay at Hilton Cavalieri? That's so far from the center of Rome you might as well not even be in the city. It's also in the middle of no where. It's also hard to get into the city from there. You won't be able to just go up to your hotel to rest when you are in Rome. It's 20-30 minutes by cab, depending on traffic, to get to the center of Rome from there.
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 8:41 pm
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Perche
Nice itinerary, but are you sure you want to do it like this?
-You sure you want a car in Milan? Parking is difficult and expensive, and it has some of the worst traffic in Europe. Milan is not a very picturesque place. Just a big, industrial city. Unless you are going to the opera, or for fashion, a specific business purpose, or to see the Last Supper, it's a place most people avoid, or just spend one day. More time in Varenna would be time much better spent.
- You sure you want a car in Varenna? There's minimal parking, unless the hotel has a spot or two. Lake Como is much better than Milan for just being awesome and taking your breath away. It's only about 5 euros and 45-50 minutes by train from Milan right to Varenna. Day trips on lake Como are done by the ferries that crisscross everywhere, not by car. From Varenna to Bellagio is about a ten minute ferry ride. Crossing the lake to Menaggio, etc, these are all better than station in urban and ugly Milan.
- You sure you want a car in Venice? There are no cars in Venice. You'd have to just leave it in a giant parking structure just outside of Venice. Cars are routinely broken into their. From Milan to Venice is only about 90 minutes or so by train. The parking lot (Tronchetto) is usually full, nasty, dirty. Not a nice experience, then you still have to get to Venice.
- You sure you want to drive to Cinque Terre? There's no parking in Riomaggiore. you have to park in a State Parking lot outside of it, and take a shuttle to town. The way to get from town to town on Cinque Terre is by the frequent local trains. There's almost no parking anywhere in Cinque Terre, except for Monterosso, the least scenic town.
- You sure you want to drive to Florence? You're not allowed in there without a permit. A robot will take a picture of your license plate, and you will get an expensive ticket. Maybe multiple ones, unless you get your hotel to alert the parking authorities that you will be driving through to a hotel. There's no driving around in Florence. All these places your going, your car will just be parked.
- You sure you want to stay at Hilton Cavalieri? That's so far from the center of Rome you might as well not even be in the city. It's also in the middle of no where. It's also hard to get into the city from there. You won't be able to just go up to your hotel to rest when you are in Rome. It's 20-30 minutes by cab, depending on traffic, to get to the center of Rome from there.
I agree with Perche in this sense. If you're so inclined, model your itinerary using Trenitalia and Italo. You might very well be able to go everywhere you want without a car. And for less money too. On a subsequent trip to Italy, we visited Rome and Amalfi using only public transport. Fast train to Naples, bus to the Port, Ferry to Sorrento. Ferries, buses, and trains to Positano, Amalfi, Capri, Ischia, and Pompeii. Then we rented a car in Sorrento (Europcar) for 5 days to visit Matera and Puglia. Public transport was not so good there and the car gave us "explor-ability." We returned the car at Bari Airport and flew back to Rome (Alitalia 62 euros). I arranged only a few transport tickets in advance - the fast train, the car, and the plane, but got really familiar with the other public transport schedules and particulars so winging it was pretty straightforward.
Bottom line, we enjoyed both ways of traveling in Italy and using short term rentals and internal flights to full in where needed makes the entire country accessible.

Last edited by rickg523; Jun 15, 2016 at 8:42 pm Reason: Typo
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 9:55 pm
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Agree. Except for me it's short term rentals and trains. Some places, like your Matera visit, etc, it's essential. But for Milan, Lake Como, Florence, Cinque Terre, and Rome, a car is a headache.
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 10:21 pm
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Perche
Agree. Except for me it's short term rentals and trains. Some places, like your Matera visit, etc, it's essential. But for Milan, Lake Como, Florence, Cinque Terre, and Rome, a car is a headache.
+1 Perche. We ended up just parking the car for days at a time in Varenna and Venice. And obviously MXP to Varenna to Venice is pretty easy without a car. Though I admit I found driving around the Lake to Varenna exhilarating. Maybe consider a one day rental.
To the OP, if you can convince your companions, at least do some of your trip using public transport.
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 10:36 pm
  #8  
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If you can, I'd arrive in Venice, continue to Milan and then Riomaggiore. It'll cut down on backtracking whether by rail or road.

As most have already said, a car will be an expensive poor-value proposition for most of your itinerary as it will just be parked a lot, and you'll pay for that privilege (at least in Milan, Venice, Riomaggiore and Florence). Better to rail (but tickets in advance as soon booking allows - they'll be quite a lot cheaper) and taxi when you have to.

I'd rail to Florence, pick up a car when you leave (might have to do that at FLR). Check if the property in Praiano actually has enough parking spaces or can guarantee it. You'll see parking, private or otherwise, is at a premium all along the Amalfi coast. If not, the Hilton Sorrento might be better (found street parking but that was in January). It'll be easier to get to Pompeii and the other archeological sites too. It'd be almost better to return the car here as driving around isn't the easiest.

As far as the Cavalieri goes, it's good or o.k. if you have lounge access to the top floor lounge (the whole lounge thing has been redone since I last stayed, a long time ago). If you don't, there's really not much point. We took the shuttle bus to and from Piazza Barberini a lot.

p.s. I have driven in Italy a lot, just to places where parking is a lot easier (and available). Never had any issues with Fiat Pandas, VW Polos, etc. but you'll need to larger vehicle for 4 adults and depending on how used you are to tight spots, it may be a stressful and expensive proposition. The hairiest in Italy for me ever was getting a Fiat 500 XL (involuntary upgrade) up the car rental garage by Roma Termini. Also leave your Canadian sensibilities at home.

Last edited by YVR Cockroach; Jun 15, 2016 at 11:01 pm
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Old Jun 15, 2016, 10:49 pm
  #9  
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If you are into food, I can highly recommend Elizabeth Minchelli's private food tours of Rome.
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Old Jun 24, 2016, 10:43 pm
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Perche
Nice itinerary, but are you sure you want to do it like this?
-You sure you want a car in Milan? Parking is difficult and expensive, and it has some of the worst traffic in Europe.
We're only getting the rental car as we leave Milan. I have no plans to drive a car in any of the cities of Italy.

Milan is not a very picturesque place. Just a big, industrial city. Unless you are going to the opera, or for fashion, a specific business purpose, or to see the Last Supper, it's a place most people avoid, or just spend one day.
we're planning on attending an opera. We're arriving late at night and I'm thinking that the next day will be mostly recuperating from our day of flying and time change. So, we'll really have only 1 full day in Milan.

More time in Varenna would be time much better spent.

- You sure you want a car in Varenna? There's minimal parking, unless the hotel has a spot or two.
Yup, the hotel has parking which we've arranged for.

Lake Como is much better than Milan for just being awesome and taking your breath away. It's only about 5 euros and 45-50 minutes by train from Milan right to Varenna. Day trips on lake Como are done by the ferries that crisscross everywhere, not by car. From Varenna to Bellagio is about a ten minute ferry ride. Crossing the lake to Menaggio, etc, these are all better than station in urban and ugly Milan.
I think we're planning on spending more time walking and ferrying than driving. We may not even take the car out of its parking spot.

- You sure you want a car in Venice? There are no cars in Venice. You'd have to just leave it in a giant parking structure just outside of Venice. Cars are routinely broken into their. From Milan to Venice is only about 90 minutes or so by train. The parking lot (Tronchetto) is usually full, nasty, dirty. Not a nice experience, then you still have to get to Venice.
I looked into combining train travel and car rental or just train travel and the cost and flexibility of the car rental I booked couldn't be beaten even after paying for parking in Venice. Also, once we're in Tuscany, the idea of being able to explore smaller isolated villages by car seemed worthwhile.

- You sure you want to drive to Cinque Terre? There's no parking in Riomaggiore. you have to park in a State Parking lot outside of it, and take a shuttle to town. The way to get from town to town on Cinque Terre is by the frequent local trains. There's almost no parking anywhere in Cinque Terre, except for Monterosso, the least scenic town.
We've arranged for parking and a pickup with our stay.

- You sure you want to drive to Florence? You're not allowed in there without a permit. A robot will take a picture of your license plate, and you will get an expensive ticket. Maybe multiple ones, unless you get your hotel to alert the parking authorities that you will be driving through to a hotel. There's no driving around in Florence. All these places your going, your car will just be parked.
The hotel we're staying at in Florence is arranging for a permit and parking is included with the rate.

- You sure you want to stay at Hilton Cavalieri? That's so far from the center of Rome you might as well not even be in the city. It's also in the middle of no where. It's also hard to get into the city from there. You won't be able to just go up to your hotel to rest when you are in Rome. It's 20-30 minutes by cab, depending on traffic, to get to the center of Rome from there.
Well, we're not planning on spending a lot of time in our hotel room. When we travel, typically we leave our hotel room in the morning and don't return until the evening so I don't think it will be too annoying for us.
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Old Jul 24, 2016, 5:02 pm
  #11  
 
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Originally Posted by greatwhitenorth
- Fly into Milan, staying at Park Hyatt (one couple) and Hotel Straf (2nd couple) for 3 nights. At the Hyatt, we have the use of bicycles. Is Milan a bicycle-friendly city?
...
- Drive to Venice, staying at the Westin Europa & Regina for 4 nights.
Is there any reason for wasting 3 nights in Milano and 4 nights in Venezia?
Reduce that timings and diversify your tour!


Milano is totally nothing, no history, no culture (at least not that much you can find everywhere in Italy), just fashion shop and business. One day is more than enough for the Duomo, Teatro alla Scala and Cenacolo.


If you come to Italy in mid September check to go for "wine tourism" which will fit the season. Go for Alba region in Piemonte and of course spend a couple of days in the nice city of Torino (host of 2006 Winter Olympics).
The region of Veneto is great as well for wine (check on Verona and Treviso) and, frankly, I suggest you to avoid being "robbed" in Venezia where everything is so overpriced!
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Old Jul 29, 2016, 9:15 pm
  #12  
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Thank you for your information. We really have only 2 nights in Milano since we arrive in from Turkey at midnight. I'm staying in Milan mainly for attending an opera performance. I like very much your idea of wine tourism and will check out available tours.
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