Tanzania trip
Jan 9, 2006 | 11:44 am
#1
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Tanzania trip
I've seen a few posts of late on safari's in Africa, so I thought I would post my experience, though it's a year old now. Prices may have risen.
The following is from a three week trip to Tanzania in January of 2005. It included a climb up Kilimanjaro, a safari and beach time on Zanzibar island. Here is the highlights:
Attempted to climb Mount Kilimanjaro using the Rongai route. I was doing a six day climb (5 up, 2 down with the summit day being both an up and down day). Unfortunately, on the start of the fourth day it was obvious that I was not well it looked like I was developing pulmonary edema. I had a gurgling sound when I was breathing, was coughing constantly, was dizzy, had lost my appetite and was very, very tired. The head guide of my group decided it was best that I be taken off the mountain.
Due to my bad condition, they wanted to take me down my stretcher. However, because the mountain rescue team only works on the Marangu route, I would have to walk from Mawenzi Tarn camp to the saddle. Even with the help of two guides, it took me almost 6 hours to make it from Mawenzi Tarn to the Marangu route. The mountain rescue team, who loaded me on a stretcher and took me all the way to the gate, soon met us. There an ambulance met up with us, and I was taken to Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Clinic in Moshi. Got checked out, a shot and a prescription for Dex and released.
I was completely back to normal strength within two days, with no lingering effects.
The rest of the group I was with all made it to Gillmans point, and 8 of the 10 made it to Uhuru Peak.
Overall, my guides were excellent, both in assessing the situation and helping me down the mountain. The mountain rescue team was excellent in getting me off the mountain, even if the stretcher was not very comfortable. The $20 paid in park fees for the mountain rescue crew was well worth it to me!
The climb was booked through Africa Travel Resource (www.africatravelresource.com), locally using The African Walking Company as the local guides. The climb was more expensive than others I saw, but I do feel that the quality of guides was above that of some of the other groups I saw climbing the mountain.
The food was decent and filling, though the higher we got the less variety that we got in our diet.
The hotel accommodations at the Kibo Hotel in Marangu before and after I have no complaints about. I have often read that the Kibo Hotel is a faded glory, but the beds were comfortable, the showers had hot water, the rooms were clean and the beer in the bar was cold.
The Rongai route itself was not a difficult hike. There was only one section, close to the lava chute cave, where we had to use our hands to scramble up some rocks. Otherwise, the climb was mainly a slow, slow walk. The path is not as well developed as the Marangu route, but I think it adds to the appeal to have a more rugged (though entirely walkable) path. Rongai does not provide cabins at all, thus tents are the only way to go. Washroom facilities are ugly many of the group ended up using a shovel instead of going into the squat toilets at the campsites.
The worst part of the trip was the 3 hour car ride from Marangu to the trail head of the Rongai route. The road is rough and dusty. Our car dropped a shock on the way to the trail head.
The following is from a three week trip to Tanzania in January of 2005. It included a climb up Kilimanjaro, a safari and beach time on Zanzibar island. Here is the highlights:
Attempted to climb Mount Kilimanjaro using the Rongai route. I was doing a six day climb (5 up, 2 down with the summit day being both an up and down day). Unfortunately, on the start of the fourth day it was obvious that I was not well it looked like I was developing pulmonary edema. I had a gurgling sound when I was breathing, was coughing constantly, was dizzy, had lost my appetite and was very, very tired. The head guide of my group decided it was best that I be taken off the mountain.
Due to my bad condition, they wanted to take me down my stretcher. However, because the mountain rescue team only works on the Marangu route, I would have to walk from Mawenzi Tarn camp to the saddle. Even with the help of two guides, it took me almost 6 hours to make it from Mawenzi Tarn to the Marangu route. The mountain rescue team, who loaded me on a stretcher and took me all the way to the gate, soon met us. There an ambulance met up with us, and I was taken to Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Clinic in Moshi. Got checked out, a shot and a prescription for Dex and released.
I was completely back to normal strength within two days, with no lingering effects.
The rest of the group I was with all made it to Gillmans point, and 8 of the 10 made it to Uhuru Peak.
Overall, my guides were excellent, both in assessing the situation and helping me down the mountain. The mountain rescue team was excellent in getting me off the mountain, even if the stretcher was not very comfortable. The $20 paid in park fees for the mountain rescue crew was well worth it to me!
The climb was booked through Africa Travel Resource (www.africatravelresource.com), locally using The African Walking Company as the local guides. The climb was more expensive than others I saw, but I do feel that the quality of guides was above that of some of the other groups I saw climbing the mountain.
The food was decent and filling, though the higher we got the less variety that we got in our diet.
The hotel accommodations at the Kibo Hotel in Marangu before and after I have no complaints about. I have often read that the Kibo Hotel is a faded glory, but the beds were comfortable, the showers had hot water, the rooms were clean and the beer in the bar was cold.
The Rongai route itself was not a difficult hike. There was only one section, close to the lava chute cave, where we had to use our hands to scramble up some rocks. Otherwise, the climb was mainly a slow, slow walk. The path is not as well developed as the Marangu route, but I think it adds to the appeal to have a more rugged (though entirely walkable) path. Rongai does not provide cabins at all, thus tents are the only way to go. Washroom facilities are ugly many of the group ended up using a shovel instead of going into the squat toilets at the campsites.
The worst part of the trip was the 3 hour car ride from Marangu to the trail head of the Rongai route. The road is rough and dusty. Our car dropped a shock on the way to the trail head.
Jan 9, 2006 | 11:48 am
#2
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Part II - Safari Details
The five-day, four-night safari consisted of 1 day at Lake Manyara, 3 days in Serengeti National Park and 1 day in the Ngorongoro crater. The trip also included a visit to a Maasai boma village and a visit to Olduvai gorge, though we had to pay separately for those items. Saw 4 of the big 5 (missed the leopard, but saw lion, buffalo, elephant and rhino), and additionally saw cheetah, hippo, wildebeests, zebra, giraffe, impala and many others.
First day camped at the Panorama campsite outside of Mto Wa Mbu. Very nice campsite. The tents are already set up for you and the showers have hot water. Second and third days camped at the Seronera campsite (specifically the Dik Dik campsite) in the Serengeti. Much rougher than the Panorama campsite no showers of any kind and only a squat toilet to use. The final day we camped at Simba campsite overlooking the Ngorongoro Crater. Not as plush as the Panorama campsite, but it does have hot showers and the view is amazing.
I was taken on the safari with Comfort Holidays based in Arusha (http://www.comfortsafaris.com/). Thats not who I booked with, but thats who ended up taking me. I booked with Kilimanjaro Crown Bird Safaris in Arusha. The next day, Comfort Holidays showed up and said I was going with them. Of the 5 people in the car, only two of the people had actually booked with Comfort Holidays, and they had done that prior to leaving for Tanzania. The other 3 paying customers had all booked with another company. After hearing a number of horror stories about people booking group safaris and then not getting to go when the others in the group magically disappeared, I was just happy that I was getting to go on a Safari at all.
The guide and car provided by Comfort Holidays met my expectations. The Toyota Land Cruiser was in good working condition and comfortable (though a bit crowded when all 7 people (5 guests, guide and cook) were in the car). The guide was knowledgeable and did an excellent job meeting the desires of the group for a good, first timer safari. He did get a little side tracked one day trying to find a leopard for us to see, but otherwise I have no complaints.
Food was good and well prepared. The last day we started to run out of some things (powdered milk, tea bags, etc.), which makes me think they could do a better job in supply.
The tents were a little old and took a long time to set up, even with the guest pitching in. They were comfortable enough.
All told my safari (booked in Arusha the day before departure) cost me $US 478, including guide, car, cook, three meals a day, park fees, campsites, tents, sleeping bags and mats, Maasai village visit, Olduvai Gorge fee and tips. The couple who booked from home paid about $50 more than I did booking in Arusha.
As it was a group safari, I didnt know the people I was with. They were nice, some better than others. Luckily we all had similar desires, most of us being first timers (one of the group had been to the Serengeti many years ago), so a wide variety of animals was called for. I could see problems developing, though, if someone in the group had very specific wants (like bird watching) and the others didnt.
Favorite animal I saw the Cheetah. I didnt get to see one run, but they look fast even standing still, like a spring waiting to uncoil.
5 days was just the right amount of time for a first time safari, I think. 3 days would have been a little short and would have been rushed. At 5 days I was ready to get out of the car. There is a lot of driving involved in a game drive a lot more driving than game viewing, in fact, especially if you are switching parks.
Definitely a great experience, and not as expensive as you would think. Highly recommended!
For pictures, check out the following link: Safari pictures (3 blog entries)
Hotels in Arusha:
Novotel Mount Meru for $85 a night (single). Overpriced for what you got. I basically stayed there because thats where the bus dropped me off and it was raining, so I didnt feel like going out in the rain.
LOasis for $45 a night (single). Very nice. Just across the road and through a couple streets from the Novotel Mount Meru. LOasis provides a clean and very atmospheric bungalows in a quiet setting. Its run by a couple of Brit ex-pats. They are also renovating a backpacker hostel across the street, which I think they said they would charge $15 a night for.
Williams Inn. This was recommended by my guide book, and the place I probably would have stayed had it not rained when I arrived at the Novotel. However, one of the group in my safari stayed here and did not like it at all. A woman was screaming all night long about people trying to kill her, and doors were constantly opening and closing and discussions about prices for sex acts could be heard all night long. They were booked to stay 2 days, and only stayed one to find a new place.
First day camped at the Panorama campsite outside of Mto Wa Mbu. Very nice campsite. The tents are already set up for you and the showers have hot water. Second and third days camped at the Seronera campsite (specifically the Dik Dik campsite) in the Serengeti. Much rougher than the Panorama campsite no showers of any kind and only a squat toilet to use. The final day we camped at Simba campsite overlooking the Ngorongoro Crater. Not as plush as the Panorama campsite, but it does have hot showers and the view is amazing.
I was taken on the safari with Comfort Holidays based in Arusha (http://www.comfortsafaris.com/). Thats not who I booked with, but thats who ended up taking me. I booked with Kilimanjaro Crown Bird Safaris in Arusha. The next day, Comfort Holidays showed up and said I was going with them. Of the 5 people in the car, only two of the people had actually booked with Comfort Holidays, and they had done that prior to leaving for Tanzania. The other 3 paying customers had all booked with another company. After hearing a number of horror stories about people booking group safaris and then not getting to go when the others in the group magically disappeared, I was just happy that I was getting to go on a Safari at all.
The guide and car provided by Comfort Holidays met my expectations. The Toyota Land Cruiser was in good working condition and comfortable (though a bit crowded when all 7 people (5 guests, guide and cook) were in the car). The guide was knowledgeable and did an excellent job meeting the desires of the group for a good, first timer safari. He did get a little side tracked one day trying to find a leopard for us to see, but otherwise I have no complaints.
Food was good and well prepared. The last day we started to run out of some things (powdered milk, tea bags, etc.), which makes me think they could do a better job in supply.
The tents were a little old and took a long time to set up, even with the guest pitching in. They were comfortable enough.
All told my safari (booked in Arusha the day before departure) cost me $US 478, including guide, car, cook, three meals a day, park fees, campsites, tents, sleeping bags and mats, Maasai village visit, Olduvai Gorge fee and tips. The couple who booked from home paid about $50 more than I did booking in Arusha.
As it was a group safari, I didnt know the people I was with. They were nice, some better than others. Luckily we all had similar desires, most of us being first timers (one of the group had been to the Serengeti many years ago), so a wide variety of animals was called for. I could see problems developing, though, if someone in the group had very specific wants (like bird watching) and the others didnt.
Favorite animal I saw the Cheetah. I didnt get to see one run, but they look fast even standing still, like a spring waiting to uncoil.
5 days was just the right amount of time for a first time safari, I think. 3 days would have been a little short and would have been rushed. At 5 days I was ready to get out of the car. There is a lot of driving involved in a game drive a lot more driving than game viewing, in fact, especially if you are switching parks.
Definitely a great experience, and not as expensive as you would think. Highly recommended!
For pictures, check out the following link: Safari pictures (3 blog entries)
Hotels in Arusha:
Novotel Mount Meru for $85 a night (single). Overpriced for what you got. I basically stayed there because thats where the bus dropped me off and it was raining, so I didnt feel like going out in the rain.
LOasis for $45 a night (single). Very nice. Just across the road and through a couple streets from the Novotel Mount Meru. LOasis provides a clean and very atmospheric bungalows in a quiet setting. Its run by a couple of Brit ex-pats. They are also renovating a backpacker hostel across the street, which I think they said they would charge $15 a night for.
Williams Inn. This was recommended by my guide book, and the place I probably would have stayed had it not rained when I arrived at the Novotel. However, one of the group in my safari stayed here and did not like it at all. A woman was screaming all night long about people trying to kill her, and doors were constantly opening and closing and discussions about prices for sex acts could be heard all night long. They were booked to stay 2 days, and only stayed one to find a new place.
Jan 9, 2006 | 11:48 am
#3
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Part III: Stone Town and Kendwa, Zanzibar
Stone Town is amazing. My first experience of an Arabic city. The streets are crocked and narrow, and most of them cant accommodate cars, which makes it a great walking city. Sunset at The Africa House hotel is a must, and the sunset is also nice from Mercurys restaurant.
For dinner, definitely hit Forodhani Gardens for the outdoor grill experience. The first night my eyes were bigger than my stomach, and I couldnt finish my 5 skewers of lobster, tuna, prawns, calamari and oysters. Total of that meal, $US 7 dollars. The next night, learning my lesson, I spent $US 4 for lobster, tuna and calamari and was very happily sated.
Stayed at the Garden Inn on Kaunda Road. $US 20 for a single including breakfast on the rooftop patio. The rooms were nice with four-poster beds, mosquito nets, fans and hot water. It is also an excellent choice because it is on a major road, and thus easy to find. One of the places I was thinking of I stumbled on while lost in the twisting alleys of Stone Town. There is no way I would have been able to find a hotel in those back streets in the dark after a few beers.
Took a spice tour. Zanzibar is famous for growing spices, especially cloves, and taking a tour of a spice farm. The farmer takes you around and shows you various plants and their fruits. We then play a game where we try and guess what spice is made from the plant. Everyone else in the group would be sitting their saying stuff like, is it turmeric? The farmer would say, Yes! It is turmeric! And I would be thinking, What the heck is turmeric? A spice tour is a very, very boring concept if you know nothing about spices or cooking. All it was to me was an hour of beach time lost. The spice tour I took cost $20 including a transfer from Stone Town to Kendwa.
Kendwa, on the north coast, is a quiet and beautiful beach town. The beaches are white sand. The Indian Ocean water is blue and calm, perfect for swimming. Unfortunately I only had a day available in Kendwa. I could have stayed much longer.
I stayed at the Amaan Bungalows. It was $US 30 for a single sea view. It was about 20 metres from the beach. They wanted $US 50 for a sea view on the beach, but I decided that the extra $20 wasnt worth the saved 40 steps to the beach. Very nice place hot water, beds with mosquito nets, fan, AC. A beach bar and restaurant is on the property. Food is a little pricey.
The biggest complaint I have with Amaan is that they refused to take 30,000 shillings for the $US 30 charge. The insisted on 33,300 shillings based on their exchange rate. Even though I had to leave early the next day and would miss breakfast, they still wouldnt budge.
I also checked out Kendwa Rocks next door. They were a little cheaper than Amaan Bungalows, but didnt have any singles available. I liked the architecture at Kendwa Rocks better the thatch hut look rather than the stucco bungalow look, but thats just window dressing. I have heard that Kendwa Rocks can get a little rowdy at night they do host full moon parties.
For dinner, definitely hit Forodhani Gardens for the outdoor grill experience. The first night my eyes were bigger than my stomach, and I couldnt finish my 5 skewers of lobster, tuna, prawns, calamari and oysters. Total of that meal, $US 7 dollars. The next night, learning my lesson, I spent $US 4 for lobster, tuna and calamari and was very happily sated.
Stayed at the Garden Inn on Kaunda Road. $US 20 for a single including breakfast on the rooftop patio. The rooms were nice with four-poster beds, mosquito nets, fans and hot water. It is also an excellent choice because it is on a major road, and thus easy to find. One of the places I was thinking of I stumbled on while lost in the twisting alleys of Stone Town. There is no way I would have been able to find a hotel in those back streets in the dark after a few beers.
Took a spice tour. Zanzibar is famous for growing spices, especially cloves, and taking a tour of a spice farm. The farmer takes you around and shows you various plants and their fruits. We then play a game where we try and guess what spice is made from the plant. Everyone else in the group would be sitting their saying stuff like, is it turmeric? The farmer would say, Yes! It is turmeric! And I would be thinking, What the heck is turmeric? A spice tour is a very, very boring concept if you know nothing about spices or cooking. All it was to me was an hour of beach time lost. The spice tour I took cost $20 including a transfer from Stone Town to Kendwa.
Kendwa, on the north coast, is a quiet and beautiful beach town. The beaches are white sand. The Indian Ocean water is blue and calm, perfect for swimming. Unfortunately I only had a day available in Kendwa. I could have stayed much longer.
I stayed at the Amaan Bungalows. It was $US 30 for a single sea view. It was about 20 metres from the beach. They wanted $US 50 for a sea view on the beach, but I decided that the extra $20 wasnt worth the saved 40 steps to the beach. Very nice place hot water, beds with mosquito nets, fan, AC. A beach bar and restaurant is on the property. Food is a little pricey.
The biggest complaint I have with Amaan is that they refused to take 30,000 shillings for the $US 30 charge. The insisted on 33,300 shillings based on their exchange rate. Even though I had to leave early the next day and would miss breakfast, they still wouldnt budge.
I also checked out Kendwa Rocks next door. They were a little cheaper than Amaan Bungalows, but didnt have any singles available. I liked the architecture at Kendwa Rocks better the thatch hut look rather than the stucco bungalow look, but thats just window dressing. I have heard that Kendwa Rocks can get a little rowdy at night they do host full moon parties.
Mar 2, 2006 | 12:08 pm
#5
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I should point out that I have heard that prices for safaris have increased since I was there in January of last year, as the national park entrance fees have increased significantly. People booking should probably expect to pay more than I paid.
Greg
Greg
Mar 2, 2006 | 3:52 pm
#6
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I climbed the Machambe route in 1999 which is also a day longer that the traditional Coca-Cola route which is only 4 days up.
One of my friends who does triathalons in the Bay Area also had her body shut down at about 15,000ft. She went up to the last camp at 17,000ft but did not summit with us.
Like all altitude sickness, she felt immediately better once she hiked to lower altitudes.
A friend and I are headed back to that area this Xmas to climb Mt. Kenya rockclimbing up the mountaineering route. Should be fun!
One of my friends who does triathalons in the Bay Area also had her body shut down at about 15,000ft. She went up to the last camp at 17,000ft but did not summit with us.
Like all altitude sickness, she felt immediately better once she hiked to lower altitudes.
A friend and I are headed back to that area this Xmas to climb Mt. Kenya rockclimbing up the mountaineering route. Should be fun!
Mar 3, 2006 | 11:49 am
#7
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Whilest it would be nice to claim, I am sure that your triatholon running friend is in much better shape than I am. However, it is a reminder that who altitude sickness hits is quite a mystery - young or old, healthy or out of shape - there's no real way to predict.
Greg
Greg