100% we want to try ekiben. So far our Shinkansen trains have been at the wrong time of the day or too short of a ride. But the experience will happen tomorrow on the way to Kyoto or in a few days when we leave Kyoto.

Cool.
Shin-Osaka had the biggest ekiben market of all the places I've been to in Japan. Kyoto is a huge station so things there may be more spread out and I can't comment on the retail opportunities there today. Hopefully someone else can chip in? A little web search (see below) indicates you should be fine
The unagi (eel) works really well in cold bento boxes so don't be put off by the price incriment for it. (Japanese eel with glazed sauce tastes like meat, so it doesn't require an appreciation of 'weird' flavours. Not many people have a problem with it once they have been convinced to try it)
https://www.kyotolocalized.com/post/...st-bento-boxes

Day 9 is a total counterpoint to day 8. 25,000 steps according to Mrs STs app. Why???

Because the island of Naoshima is sort of dedicated to art. And particularly art houses. As a result there are at least three major areas of art work to visit. It seems most people hire bikes (an e-bike is just Y15000 �7.50) but it was a sunny day so we decided to hike. There is also a very cool set of town buses which operate on a circular basis so we knew we had other options if needed.

The main port hasn�t got much in it but the walk across the island�s middle took us past a dentists house and into the secondary port.





Here there are may more houses to visit, each with a small charge (Y700 or five for Y2500). In some places even the warden said �less is more�.







The toilets!


and into a new in 2026 a museum full of large exhibits (and also in itself a piece of stunning modern architecture)








And finally onto the Chichu museum. Which was both stunning and a let down. Partly the latter was because it was three artists only and no photos allowed (Monet, Turrell and another!). plus this weird artefact on path mid way across the island.


About 5m tall



The cafe (oddly westernised selling open sandwiches)

Nice view southwards

But we still weren�t totally art-ed out. Our overnight stay was in the Benesse Art Museum hotel. And that deserves a post of its own.

Benesse Art Museum hotel is a truly sensational place to stay. It�s like staying in your own private art collection house (well sort of). The whole grounds have various art areas and pieces so a photobomb of those first.

We stayed in the �Park� area (they don�t really call it hotel) where we couldn�t find the reception area. It�s because to get to it you have to enter vis a closed art gallery. Definitely felt exclusive.

Being a guest means you can not only visit all the areas for �free� but also see the exhibitions at any time of the day or evening. So we did both.

We splashed out for their Japanese set dinner, which again apart from the food itself, was a lesson in understated service.. once you�d finished they ordered a car to take you back to your room (the restaurant is in the main gallery itself; the lodgings are in separate buildings).

Some of the artwork, kicking off with a Hockney - hotel courtyard (very apt).







The gallery entrance

The food was great (albeit at a huge differential to other restaurants)


The seasonal appetizers (of a seven course meal)


but the sake tasting was surprising. I�ve never been a fan but all these three were really nice; and interesting. All for Y2500 / �12.50.

Given that I�ve not been ecstatic about the hotel rooms, this was a gem.






And the breakfast room was a beachside affair with a very good spread (perhaps too westernised).








it set us up for day 10 - the track back to Okayama and then onto Kyoto.

A very smooth journey. The hotel bus took us to the port. Two minutes to buy the �2 ferry ticket

Once on board, it was deserted. But one more piece of art to admire









The inbound ferry arriving into Naoshima

Uno port

Then the walk back to the station. (Sorry Uno, I did spot a coffee shop, it just wasn�t open) where a train was waiting and the driver delivered us to the interchange hang on time. Cross the platform and onto the next local one. And into Okayama.





Picked up the luggage, bought two tickets and on board the latest bullet train .. all done in less than20 minutes. And into Kyoto an hour later.



Kyoto here we are

Day 10 was, by now, just a half day in Kyoto

We headed to our hotel, checked in and pretty much straight out to the temple at Nanzen-ji


Hotel lobby - quite fun

Metro art


An aqueduct
Then onto The Philosopher�s Walk which was disappointing but we expect to be lovely in a month�s time


The back into the city centre headed for the food market.


Shopping

Nishiki market.

This was a major letdown. Incredibly touristy, pricey and no fun. You can�t eat and walk and it was basically a longish walk following other tourists.

We hadn�t fallen in love with Kyoto so far - mainly because there were so so many tourists everywhere.

Day 11 and our attempt to cover the entire south eastern temples etc

We nearly beat the crowds at Fushimi Inari and Senbon Torii but the sun was out and the walk to the top of the �mountain� was great. There are so so many gates and despite the crowds a peaceful place.








A couple of hours later we retraced our steps to find a small bamboo forest - so serene. Yet only 500m from the hordes.



About 10am ☹️


A tiny shrine

We then headed northwards on the (private) Keihan railway to visit more temples.

A bit of a stream of photos as we packed a lot in and neither of us were quite sure of the names of the places we passed.

First stop was the beautiful Kennin-ji temple. An absolute treat of a Buddhist zen garden and temple.











And then we walked northwest to re-join the crowds.












But despite the people, it was still a very enjoyable day. We totally see that Kyoto is trying to keep old but embrace tourism.

We are intending to hit the Golden Pavilion and north western area tomorrow.

Well, I’ve never had any desire to go to Japan, but you’ve definitely changed my mind! This is a great trip report.

Go! It is such an interesting country. It feels very affordable too which has been a bit of a surprise (our previous visit was along time ago).

Just a quick note that eating in Kyoto seems a little more expensive than everywhere else. That said, this set meal of miso ramen with Waugh beef was only Y2600 (about �12). And it really was delicious - so light and creamy. Thanks Google for �suggesting� the restaurant.


Unpretentious frontage one street off a main road

Typical counter place though with two tables for four (Japanese style with a footwell for westerners)

Very simple but excellent

Day 12 and the luck with the weather continues. Very much an outside day today, kicking off with the golden pavilion - Kinkakuji.

It was an easy 30 minutes bus ride from a stop pretty much across the road from our hotel. Stunning.


A 20 minute stroll took us to a(nother) zen garden, which was serene but perhaps not as good as yesterdays: Ryoan-ji




We�d been quite efficient with our time and with the lovely wether decided to head even further northwest to a third garden Okochi Sanso. That involved two lovely tram rides



To arrive at a station with huge numbers of tourists all on their way to Arashiyama bamboo forest.


There were so many tourists - mostly posing for photos (lots in kimonos) that we decided to skip all the temples here and head into the garden.

a good plan. Although it was busy, it was quiet and the admission included free tea. In Japanese style .. from a machine 🙂








Back to Kyoto on a JR train. Public transport here is so so good. The bus was �1. The two trams �1 (total!) and the train, yes you guessed it, �1.

A short rest until we head into the Gion district to get its atmosphere and for dinner, which we�ve pre-booked using my Amex platinum global dining offer.

A quick note on dinner. What a lovely experience.

We�d chosen a tiny restaurant with a set omakase meal and it was exactly what we wanted. It only sat seven and we plus two other Japanese singles were the only customers. It just felt like a genuine slice of life here.

Whilst the food wasn�t �Michelin standard� it was lovingly prepared by the husband and served by the wife. The children appeared a couple of times too.





Starters

Sashami

Fish

the owners..