A week to kill on Guernsey
Jun 19, 2025 | 3:18 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
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A week to kill on Guernsey
I thought i might try another trip report.
MrsFr attends a week-long course every year on Guernsey and while she's doing her thing, i'm at liberty to have a little look around. Again.
Having been here a number of times already and walked around the island, seen almost all the attractions both major and minor, finding something new to look at is going to be a bit of a task - hence the title.
For those that don't know, Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands but just off the coast of France. Very approximately it's roughly shaped like a right angled triangle about 9miles (14km) down the hypotenuse and 5miles (8km) across the thickest bit. While they use English and they drive on the left like the UK, they have their own government and currency (Guernsey pounds, 1:1 with UKP) - a sworn allegiance since the time of King John in the early 1200s, i believe. So kind of part of the UK. But not. I don't claim to try to understand it or be any kind of expert, just i've been here a few times and you pick stuff up.
I'm sure there's a lot of history here, going back to Dolmen from ancient civilizations right up to comparatively recent modern history. What with the relationship with and against france over the years, the fact that the channel islands were the only British lands occupied by the Nazis during WW2 figures large - the 80th anniversary celebrations for their liberation were just a few weeks ago.
With that all said...
MrsFr attends a week-long course every year on Guernsey and while she's doing her thing, i'm at liberty to have a little look around. Again.
Having been here a number of times already and walked around the island, seen almost all the attractions both major and minor, finding something new to look at is going to be a bit of a task - hence the title.
For those that don't know, Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands but just off the coast of France. Very approximately it's roughly shaped like a right angled triangle about 9miles (14km) down the hypotenuse and 5miles (8km) across the thickest bit. While they use English and they drive on the left like the UK, they have their own government and currency (Guernsey pounds, 1:1 with UKP) - a sworn allegiance since the time of King John in the early 1200s, i believe. So kind of part of the UK. But not. I don't claim to try to understand it or be any kind of expert, just i've been here a few times and you pick stuff up.
I'm sure there's a lot of history here, going back to Dolmen from ancient civilizations right up to comparatively recent modern history. What with the relationship with and against france over the years, the fact that the channel islands were the only British lands occupied by the Nazis during WW2 figures large - the 80th anniversary celebrations for their liberation were just a few weeks ago.
With that all said...
Jun 19, 2025 | 9:15 am
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Coming from France, the best way to get to Guernsey is by boat, and specifically the French port of Saint-Malo requiring a night stop so I booked a night in the Mercure Hotel Balmoral, somewhere we have stayed before for a single night.
We arrived at the underground car park entrance as i have done before after several hours driving through rush hour traffic. It's quite difficult to find being at the back side of the property from the entrance; there's a late afternoon thunderstorm with heavy rain ongoing. Pressing the well hidden intercom button to request the car park entrance to be opened the receptionist refuses to let me in as they need to know my room number. Because of the poor audio quality and volume it takes several attempts to hear and understand fully; if i don't have a room number i need to go to reception to checkin first, before they open the gate. Even though reception is on the other side of the building and all the while with the rain coming in through my car window - i'm getting soaked. I abandon the car there by the intercom, getting even wetter to checking at the front of the hotel asking that she lets me into the parking and then return back to the car.
Pressing the intercom button again i speak to the same receptionist that checked me in 90 seconds ago who then proceeds to ask me whether i really want to pay the 15euro parking fee. And am i really sure. And it's 15euros, and it will be added to the bill. All very frustrating and un-necessary. Its one thing to have a rule to get a job done, but this certainly isn't it.
The car park has maybe 12 spaces, and they're all very tight for most modern cars. It does say parking under reservation but we never have.
Straight up to our room, upgraded to a privilege room due to my ALL status which means bath robes, a coffee machine and a few free soft drinks in the minibar. The bed is at one end, a desk and storage area at the other, and a bathroom with a walk-in shower.
The room and amenties are adequate for a night stop, but its already a bit stuffy and warm; the aircon is set to 16C and is blowing out warm air. The outside temperature is 25C and still the thunder is trying its best to entertain us. And failing We do have a balcony but opening the door to get some kind of air circulation only permits the rain to enter.
We waited a few hours for the rain to stop but showed no side of abating so our planned trip into the old town for dinner is aborted. The hotel has no restaurant (i knew in advance) and MrsFr didn't fancy venturing out in the wet so i looked for something to bring back to the hotel.
Just around the corner was "Bar a Naan" which looked like just what we needed.
So, a lamb massala and chicken massala and couple of naans duly ordered i went back to the bar to eat.
MrsFr had already ordered the drinks. My welcome drink voucher was only valid for a single 25cl beer and her favourite G+T... Apparently all the gin was finished this morning - well, that was convenient - they only had 1 bottle of gin? (many other questions spring to mind). ALL properties "generosity" with their welcome drinks, especially in France, is already well discussed elsewhere on FT; Is MrsFr not welcome enough to get a drink? Are they really that tight for single beer? If it wasn't for the rain we wouldn't have bothered even with mine. Anyway...
The food was ok. Not bad per se, just not very flavoursome. I was asked when ordering, once they had heard my english accent, how spicy i wanted it. "French" spice or more, i asked for more. Maybe they just forgot. It filled a hole.
On the way back from Bar a Naan, i had noticed a homeless sleeper in an alleyway just beside the hotel and after a few mins went back to offer some Naans we had ordered but were not going to eat. A little disturbed though to find they seemed to be a casually dressed lady and raised a few alarm bells. Completely unsure of the situation but also aware of how it could go quite badly quite quickly and on discussing with MrsFr we decided to go back together to check on her welfare. On hearing our discussion another lady in reception interrupted us to say in fact she had already called the Police Municipal, the Pompiers and discussed it with the hotel staff.
The police duly arrived and helped her away in a very poor state; it may have been alcohol related. This is all a long way around to say that we then spent 3+ hours talking with the lady we met in the hotel. Turns out she is a retired German and English teacher and lives in an apartment block next to the hotel. Spent a nice few hours discussing all sorts of subjects. We really enjoy these kind of ad-hoc personal experiences. As mentioned by another Trip Reporter recently, it makes the trip to engage with others.
The bar and reception area
Time for bed as we had an early start, it's much later than we planned.
We arrived at the underground car park entrance as i have done before after several hours driving through rush hour traffic. It's quite difficult to find being at the back side of the property from the entrance; there's a late afternoon thunderstorm with heavy rain ongoing. Pressing the well hidden intercom button to request the car park entrance to be opened the receptionist refuses to let me in as they need to know my room number. Because of the poor audio quality and volume it takes several attempts to hear and understand fully; if i don't have a room number i need to go to reception to checkin first, before they open the gate. Even though reception is on the other side of the building and all the while with the rain coming in through my car window - i'm getting soaked. I abandon the car there by the intercom, getting even wetter to checking at the front of the hotel asking that she lets me into the parking and then return back to the car.
Pressing the intercom button again i speak to the same receptionist that checked me in 90 seconds ago who then proceeds to ask me whether i really want to pay the 15euro parking fee. And am i really sure. And it's 15euros, and it will be added to the bill. All very frustrating and un-necessary. Its one thing to have a rule to get a job done, but this certainly isn't it.
The car park has maybe 12 spaces, and they're all very tight for most modern cars. It does say parking under reservation but we never have.
Straight up to our room, upgraded to a privilege room due to my ALL status which means bath robes, a coffee machine and a few free soft drinks in the minibar. The bed is at one end, a desk and storage area at the other, and a bathroom with a walk-in shower.
The room and amenties are adequate for a night stop, but its already a bit stuffy and warm; the aircon is set to 16C and is blowing out warm air. The outside temperature is 25C and still the thunder is trying its best to entertain us. And failing We do have a balcony but opening the door to get some kind of air circulation only permits the rain to enter.
We waited a few hours for the rain to stop but showed no side of abating so our planned trip into the old town for dinner is aborted. The hotel has no restaurant (i knew in advance) and MrsFr didn't fancy venturing out in the wet so i looked for something to bring back to the hotel.
Just around the corner was "Bar a Naan" which looked like just what we needed.
So, a lamb massala and chicken massala and couple of naans duly ordered i went back to the bar to eat.
MrsFr had already ordered the drinks. My welcome drink voucher was only valid for a single 25cl beer and her favourite G+T... Apparently all the gin was finished this morning - well, that was convenient - they only had 1 bottle of gin? (many other questions spring to mind). ALL properties "generosity" with their welcome drinks, especially in France, is already well discussed elsewhere on FT; Is MrsFr not welcome enough to get a drink? Are they really that tight for single beer? If it wasn't for the rain we wouldn't have bothered even with mine. Anyway...
The food was ok. Not bad per se, just not very flavoursome. I was asked when ordering, once they had heard my english accent, how spicy i wanted it. "French" spice or more, i asked for more. Maybe they just forgot. It filled a hole.
On the way back from Bar a Naan, i had noticed a homeless sleeper in an alleyway just beside the hotel and after a few mins went back to offer some Naans we had ordered but were not going to eat. A little disturbed though to find they seemed to be a casually dressed lady and raised a few alarm bells. Completely unsure of the situation but also aware of how it could go quite badly quite quickly and on discussing with MrsFr we decided to go back together to check on her welfare. On hearing our discussion another lady in reception interrupted us to say in fact she had already called the Police Municipal, the Pompiers and discussed it with the hotel staff.
The police duly arrived and helped her away in a very poor state; it may have been alcohol related. This is all a long way around to say that we then spent 3+ hours talking with the lady we met in the hotel. Turns out she is a retired German and English teacher and lives in an apartment block next to the hotel. Spent a nice few hours discussing all sorts of subjects. We really enjoy these kind of ad-hoc personal experiences. As mentioned by another Trip Reporter recently, it makes the trip to engage with others.
The bar and reception area
Time for bed as we had an early start, it's much later than we planned.
Jun 20, 2025 | 9:58 am
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Apparently when i made the reservation i hadn't requested breakfast, so we're under no obligation to have breakfast there. After a brief stroll around town looking for somewhere suitable, everything was closed - maybe because it was before 9am, whatever. Decision made though and back to the hotel.
Their buffet and english breakfast menu is i think around 14, quite reasonable.
For me, another full english - the first of many. As they're full today they tell us it's going to take a little time, so toast and more importantly a cappuccino to start. Made by a person and espresso machine, not an all in one coffee-drink maker that seems so prevalent in hotels these days.
After a relaxed breakfast, return to the room and have a little baggage sort and reorganisation. With now a good collection of bags and paraphenalia i make a prelininary trip to the car. The hotel has no parking of its own, instead we have to park in the north quay car park by the ferry and White rock cafe. Probably a good few hundred spaces there. In Guernsey all street parking is free - a parking card system is used whereby you set your time card to the time of your arrival, place it in the windscreen and all's done. So long as you don't overstay the limit of that parking space (1hr, 3hrs, 10 hrs, etc) then no problem. While i have a parking card from pervious visits, i seem to have left it at home, so the day before a trip to the tourist information office to get a new one was needed. Previously it was free. This time, for tourists at least it's 6.50. Nothing to do but pay up and curse myself for the omission
Car loaded and back to the hotel to checkout. We'll stay here again in a few days so we ask if it's possible to have a room with air con; Even though my BW status had lapsed, as frequent off-island visitors they had already upgraded us to a king room, but without aircon. We've now been put down to a normal room, this time with aircon. We'll see.
With our next obligation at 2pm, we still have a few hours to meander through the streets. despite being mid-June the air is still cool in the late morning in the shade of the taller buildings in the narrow streets, but quite refreshing.
Walking along the seafront and in the sun we start to warm up. And get a small thirst so look for a suitable cafe but nothing appeals so head back to the car and make a gentle move onwards.
There's a small Waitrose supermarket on the way out of town so we stop for a few supplies.
Being a Sunday we find no cafes open on the way up to our next stop, so decide to go straight to the hotel in the chance that we can checkin early.
For the next week, our home is the Peninsular Hotel on the northern coast.
We get there at 1pm and the staff recognise us instantly and give us a warm welcome; in my book a good thing on 2 counts. Firstly that they do know us - a little; it's no "Good evening Mr Bond, would you like your normal suite?", but it helps build a relationship to help things move more easily during the stay. Secondly, i do think continuity of staff at places like this go a long way to give character and improve service; it indicates the staff are happy to continue working there and there's not a high turnover. Although, i'm told off-islanders work permits are not so simple so job changes are perhaps different here.
Our room isnt quite ready, so we... rehydrate at the bar and site outside.
15 mins later they bring our key and we go up.
This year we have a king bed, but the room is a little sparse furniture wise. Previously an islander told me that back in the '80s when this hotel opened, it opened as a Mercure. Looking at the separate toilet, layout of the bathroom and the room entrance and "wardrobe" area, the concrete wall covering and even the style of the door fittings, i can very much believe it.
Being on the 1st floor we normally have a great view of the bay. This time we get this...
I think one of the worst views possible on the whole property.
The rest of MrsFr's group is arriving shortly by plane and have a bus booked; we'll meet them at the Guernsey Pearl Centre on the west coast, right opposite Fort Grey.
Fort Grey is a Martello tower designed by a family member of the Earl who did stuff with Tea.
It's now a naval museum and is referred to by locals as the "cup and saucer".
There's also a himalyan restauran there, and the group has meals pre-booked. Sorry, no pics for this bit as i forgot.
Back to the hotel afterwards, beating the bus. it didn't make a lot of difference to us as we had checked in already, but the 20+ queue did take a little settling in.
An evening in the bar beckoned but ended early as many were tired.
Best rest up for the week, then...
Hopefully more pics from now on.
Their buffet and english breakfast menu is i think around 14, quite reasonable.
For me, another full english - the first of many. As they're full today they tell us it's going to take a little time, so toast and more importantly a cappuccino to start. Made by a person and espresso machine, not an all in one coffee-drink maker that seems so prevalent in hotels these days.
After a relaxed breakfast, return to the room and have a little baggage sort and reorganisation. With now a good collection of bags and paraphenalia i make a prelininary trip to the car. The hotel has no parking of its own, instead we have to park in the north quay car park by the ferry and White rock cafe. Probably a good few hundred spaces there. In Guernsey all street parking is free - a parking card system is used whereby you set your time card to the time of your arrival, place it in the windscreen and all's done. So long as you don't overstay the limit of that parking space (1hr, 3hrs, 10 hrs, etc) then no problem. While i have a parking card from pervious visits, i seem to have left it at home, so the day before a trip to the tourist information office to get a new one was needed. Previously it was free. This time, for tourists at least it's 6.50. Nothing to do but pay up and curse myself for the omission
Car loaded and back to the hotel to checkout. We'll stay here again in a few days so we ask if it's possible to have a room with air con; Even though my BW status had lapsed, as frequent off-island visitors they had already upgraded us to a king room, but without aircon. We've now been put down to a normal room, this time with aircon. We'll see.
With our next obligation at 2pm, we still have a few hours to meander through the streets. despite being mid-June the air is still cool in the late morning in the shade of the taller buildings in the narrow streets, but quite refreshing.
Walking along the seafront and in the sun we start to warm up. And get a small thirst so look for a suitable cafe but nothing appeals so head back to the car and make a gentle move onwards.
There's a small Waitrose supermarket on the way out of town so we stop for a few supplies.
Being a Sunday we find no cafes open on the way up to our next stop, so decide to go straight to the hotel in the chance that we can checkin early.
For the next week, our home is the Peninsular Hotel on the northern coast.
We get there at 1pm and the staff recognise us instantly and give us a warm welcome; in my book a good thing on 2 counts. Firstly that they do know us - a little; it's no "Good evening Mr Bond, would you like your normal suite?", but it helps build a relationship to help things move more easily during the stay. Secondly, i do think continuity of staff at places like this go a long way to give character and improve service; it indicates the staff are happy to continue working there and there's not a high turnover. Although, i'm told off-islanders work permits are not so simple so job changes are perhaps different here.
Our room isnt quite ready, so we... rehydrate at the bar and site outside.
15 mins later they bring our key and we go up.
This year we have a king bed, but the room is a little sparse furniture wise. Previously an islander told me that back in the '80s when this hotel opened, it opened as a Mercure. Looking at the separate toilet, layout of the bathroom and the room entrance and "wardrobe" area, the concrete wall covering and even the style of the door fittings, i can very much believe it.
Being on the 1st floor we normally have a great view of the bay. This time we get this...
I think one of the worst views possible on the whole property.
The rest of MrsFr's group is arriving shortly by plane and have a bus booked; we'll meet them at the Guernsey Pearl Centre on the west coast, right opposite Fort Grey.
Fort Grey is a Martello tower designed by a family member of the Earl who did stuff with Tea.
It's now a naval museum and is referred to by locals as the "cup and saucer".
There's also a himalyan restauran there, and the group has meals pre-booked. Sorry, no pics for this bit as i forgot.
Back to the hotel afterwards, beating the bus. it didn't make a lot of difference to us as we had checked in already, but the 20+ queue did take a little settling in.
An evening in the bar beckoned but ended early as many were tired.
Best rest up for the week, then...
Hopefully more pics from now on.
Jun 21, 2025 | 7:37 am
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
First day here proper and time to go off-island. Having seen most of the island already i'm heading to the even smaller island of Herm, about 3miles across the water from St Peter port. The trident tours ferry ticket office is on the corner of the north quay, and i get a return ticket for the day. 18 for the 10.30 crossing out and any return boat i want.
The ferry does nothing but shuttle back and forth from Herm, and i reckon it carries about 100 people. it docks right on queue.
St Peter port disappears again as we set off
I've done the north of Herm previously so today it's the southern bit by a coastal walk which will bring be back to the harbour for the return later in the day. As the tide is quite high we dock high on the jetty but too many people to get a clear pic.
Starting the southern loop of Herm, pass probably the worlds cutest prison
starting the climb. Steps. Steps are not my favourite but no choice at this point
After going up through the bushes the view opens out with St Peter Port clearly in sight just a few miles away. The cruise liner arrived earlier this morning and its passengers are now exploring the town, thankfully nowhere near me.
Sheer drop, huh? Ok, let's see...
er, yup, looks about right. no fake warnings here.
reached the southern tip of Herm already barely 20 mins in, not sure i can realistically go much further south.
Champagne rock is apparently a table like rock where people celebrate stuff with champagne. With no notice the best i can do is a water bottle.
carrying on round, there's a sea cave. Beautiful clear blue water here and all around all the islands
more very pretty coastline
getting a bit thirsty now and up ahead i see the cafe at Belvoir beach, so get ready for a quick pit stop.
I've reached the point for my return to the harbour and it's barely been an hour, i thought it would take much longer so as the Belvoir cafe is closed today, i decide to carry on and do the more of the coastline.
what counts as a major road junction on Herm.
A few minutes around the corner is shell beach and its cafe; signs of life suggest it's open. The sight of that clear blue sea makes it quite joyful, a real pleasure to see.
whether correct or not i detect an absence of sugar. With it still being before midday, a slice of white chocolate and Mango cake and a soft drink will have to make do. I thought a little pricey - 7.50, but considering the transport needed to get it all there, understandable.
shoes off and time for a walk on the beach. Shell beach is supposed to be coarsely crushed shell, but i find it quite nice to walk on, quite soft and warm but not hot. certainly nicer than other "sand" beaches i've walked on.
I go for a paddle as i walk along the sealine, but wow, that water's cold. I have expect to see icebergs passing by, but just that clear blue sea. A shame; it looks tropical but it absolutely is not. It is the Atlantic, after all.
I carry on walking along the beach, but it's quite difficult. Soft sand is hard to walk in as we all know and the beach shelves sufficiently that i feel like i'll be toppling over. I tried high in the soft stuff and low on the wet stuff, both equally tricky. I stop complaining to myself and just walk.
Eventually i run out of Herm to walk on, so north to south in just over an hour at a leisurely pace. I forget how small Herm really is
Rounding the corner and on the main Island the port of St Samson comes into view; there's not much of Herm to do now. Along the "top" there's a bit of a rock formation blocking the beach which i don't fancy scrambling over so go inland a little and come across the "Pierre aux Rats". Apparently it's a marker point for local fishermen.
Just behind it there's a scattering of stones. There is very old history on these islands going back to 4000BC (yes, before the pyramids). Can't help but think this looks like a stone circle that's taken a turn for the worse.
Getting close to the harbour and it's approaching lunchtime. Never though i'd get this far or so quickly. On the beach there are some birds. Not on any part of the beach, just here. Must just be the place to be...
On the flightpath for the approach into GCI, Guernsey International Airport. International i think as i do believe they have a weekly flight to Norway as well as frequent flights to the UK. Either way, this doesn't look big enough for any kind of scheduled service here.
Passing the Herm Cemetery. Apparently all others are carried out on Guernsey or Jersey; these 2 died of a disease that i forget and their bodies were refused entry into either so buried here.
Time for lunch and as i return back to the harbour area i pass the mermaid pub which seems as good as place as any.
A little rehydration while i wait for lunch to arrive
Today a British staple, fish and chips. I don't get to chose fish very often as MrsFr is quite allergic, so while she's not here...
The fish is a little soggy underneath although otherwise cooked well and chips a little dry, but not bad and quite enjoyable.
Passing the harbour again, the high tidal range in these islands is quite clear. in just a couple of hours it looks like its dropped by at least 4m and it's still going out. I've heard the tidal range here is one of the highest in the world at around 10m.
I had originally intended to return on the 1535 boat, but that's hours away and i'm pretty much done. It's approaching 2pm so with an earlier boat at 1435 i decide to walk to the chapel in the middle of Herm as it seems not far away. What i hadn't banked on was the steepish climb up from the harbour having just eaten
Inside St Tuguals chapel its unsurprisingly small, but has a nice garden and cute bell tower.
returning down to the harbour, the main crossing point
Due to the low tide, the return ferry doesn't go from the harbour but the rosaire steps, a short walk away
salt crystals have formed on the barrier from the last high tide, i reckon currently about 8m from the current sea level. Quite incredible to just watch the tide come in over something man made.
the downstairs inner cabin and outside deck of the ferry. I've heard that even with a swell of just 1.5m, this is a very tough ride. With wind and rain the inner cabin becomes standing room only and a quite un-enjoyable experience for those... without a strong constitution
Leaving Herm by the Rosaire steps
rounding one of the even small islands of Guernsey called Jethou
St Peter Port comes back into view
Despite being a shorter day than planned, it's taken a bit out of me so i slink back to the hotel for a shower and then retire to the bar for the evening to start this TR while MrsFr has an evening session on her course.
The ferry does nothing but shuttle back and forth from Herm, and i reckon it carries about 100 people. it docks right on queue.
St Peter port disappears again as we set off
I've done the north of Herm previously so today it's the southern bit by a coastal walk which will bring be back to the harbour for the return later in the day. As the tide is quite high we dock high on the jetty but too many people to get a clear pic.
Starting the southern loop of Herm, pass probably the worlds cutest prison
starting the climb. Steps. Steps are not my favourite but no choice at this point
After going up through the bushes the view opens out with St Peter Port clearly in sight just a few miles away. The cruise liner arrived earlier this morning and its passengers are now exploring the town, thankfully nowhere near me.
Sheer drop, huh? Ok, let's see...
er, yup, looks about right. no fake warnings here.
reached the southern tip of Herm already barely 20 mins in, not sure i can realistically go much further south.
Champagne rock is apparently a table like rock where people celebrate stuff with champagne. With no notice the best i can do is a water bottle.
carrying on round, there's a sea cave. Beautiful clear blue water here and all around all the islands
more very pretty coastline
getting a bit thirsty now and up ahead i see the cafe at Belvoir beach, so get ready for a quick pit stop.
I've reached the point for my return to the harbour and it's barely been an hour, i thought it would take much longer so as the Belvoir cafe is closed today, i decide to carry on and do the more of the coastline.
what counts as a major road junction on Herm.
A few minutes around the corner is shell beach and its cafe; signs of life suggest it's open. The sight of that clear blue sea makes it quite joyful, a real pleasure to see.
whether correct or not i detect an absence of sugar. With it still being before midday, a slice of white chocolate and Mango cake and a soft drink will have to make do. I thought a little pricey - 7.50, but considering the transport needed to get it all there, understandable.
shoes off and time for a walk on the beach. Shell beach is supposed to be coarsely crushed shell, but i find it quite nice to walk on, quite soft and warm but not hot. certainly nicer than other "sand" beaches i've walked on.
I go for a paddle as i walk along the sealine, but wow, that water's cold. I have expect to see icebergs passing by, but just that clear blue sea. A shame; it looks tropical but it absolutely is not. It is the Atlantic, after all.
I carry on walking along the beach, but it's quite difficult. Soft sand is hard to walk in as we all know and the beach shelves sufficiently that i feel like i'll be toppling over. I tried high in the soft stuff and low on the wet stuff, both equally tricky. I stop complaining to myself and just walk.
Eventually i run out of Herm to walk on, so north to south in just over an hour at a leisurely pace. I forget how small Herm really is
Rounding the corner and on the main Island the port of St Samson comes into view; there's not much of Herm to do now. Along the "top" there's a bit of a rock formation blocking the beach which i don't fancy scrambling over so go inland a little and come across the "Pierre aux Rats". Apparently it's a marker point for local fishermen.
Just behind it there's a scattering of stones. There is very old history on these islands going back to 4000BC (yes, before the pyramids). Can't help but think this looks like a stone circle that's taken a turn for the worse.
Getting close to the harbour and it's approaching lunchtime. Never though i'd get this far or so quickly. On the beach there are some birds. Not on any part of the beach, just here. Must just be the place to be...
On the flightpath for the approach into GCI, Guernsey International Airport. International i think as i do believe they have a weekly flight to Norway as well as frequent flights to the UK. Either way, this doesn't look big enough for any kind of scheduled service here.
Passing the Herm Cemetery. Apparently all others are carried out on Guernsey or Jersey; these 2 died of a disease that i forget and their bodies were refused entry into either so buried here.
Time for lunch and as i return back to the harbour area i pass the mermaid pub which seems as good as place as any.
A little rehydration while i wait for lunch to arrive
Today a British staple, fish and chips. I don't get to chose fish very often as MrsFr is quite allergic, so while she's not here...
The fish is a little soggy underneath although otherwise cooked well and chips a little dry, but not bad and quite enjoyable.
Passing the harbour again, the high tidal range in these islands is quite clear. in just a couple of hours it looks like its dropped by at least 4m and it's still going out. I've heard the tidal range here is one of the highest in the world at around 10m.
I had originally intended to return on the 1535 boat, but that's hours away and i'm pretty much done. It's approaching 2pm so with an earlier boat at 1435 i decide to walk to the chapel in the middle of Herm as it seems not far away. What i hadn't banked on was the steepish climb up from the harbour having just eaten
Inside St Tuguals chapel its unsurprisingly small, but has a nice garden and cute bell tower.
returning down to the harbour, the main crossing point
Due to the low tide, the return ferry doesn't go from the harbour but the rosaire steps, a short walk away
salt crystals have formed on the barrier from the last high tide, i reckon currently about 8m from the current sea level. Quite incredible to just watch the tide come in over something man made.
the downstairs inner cabin and outside deck of the ferry. I've heard that even with a swell of just 1.5m, this is a very tough ride. With wind and rain the inner cabin becomes standing room only and a quite un-enjoyable experience for those... without a strong constitution
Leaving Herm by the Rosaire steps
rounding one of the even small islands of Guernsey called Jethou
St Peter Port comes back into view
Despite being a shorter day than planned, it's taken a bit out of me so i slink back to the hotel for a shower and then retire to the bar for the evening to start this TR while MrsFr has an evening session on her course.
Jun 21, 2025 | 10:08 am
#6
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: England
Programs: BAC
Posts: 1,873
Aircraft is a Douglas C47; not a regular scheduled visitor. There was one visiting for Liberation Day (8th May), ‘Ready for Duty' (R4D), operated by the Dallas-based Commemorative Air Force; similar colour scheme to that in your photo.
Guernsey qualifies as International as Aurigny fly to Dublin 😎
Guernsey qualifies as International as Aurigny fly to Dublin 😎
Jun 23, 2025 | 12:49 am
#8
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: SE U.K.
Programs: DILLIGAF
Posts: 197
Thank you MalFr for a very interesting TR. I'd forgotten what a lovely part of the world the ChanneI lsles are and makes me want to go back. Roll on the big Lottery win and the subsequent life of travelling to interesting places.
Jun 23, 2025 | 8:04 am
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Apologies that im a bit behind in writing it all up
Jun 23, 2025 | 8:06 am
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Aircraft is a Douglas C47; not a regular scheduled visitor. There was one visiting for Liberation Day (8th May), Ready for Duty' (R4D), operated by the Dallas-based Commemorative Air Force; similar colour scheme to that in your photo.
Guernsey qualifies as International as Aurigny fly to Dublin 😎
Guernsey qualifies as International as Aurigny fly to Dublin 😎
Jun 23, 2025 | 8:07 am
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Jun 23, 2025 | 8:09 am
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
Thank you MalFr for a very interesting TR. I'd forgotten what a lovely part of the world the ChanneI lsles are and makes me want to go back. Roll on the big Lottery win and the subsequent life of travelling to interesting places.
Jun 23, 2025 | 8:11 am
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2019
Programs: FB Gold, Accor Gold, IHG One Rewards Platinum, SNCF Grand Voyager le club, Hertz 5* Gold,
Posts: 578
ill put it up again as soon as i can, as a stop gap until i can write the next one.
