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High and low(brow) in the U.K.
I was a bit hesitant do a report on this trip given its quotidian destinations, but I had fun writing the last "live" report, and the only harm done is a few KBs of space on the server, so here goes...
We're off to the airport for a ten-night excursion to the U.K.: two nights in London on either end, Birmingham, Belfast, and Edinburgh. The itinerary includes what should be some spectacular meals (including Opheem in Birmingham), quirky experiences (the Shakespeare Express train to Stratford-upon-Avon), and decidedly lowbrow amusements (like a Taylor Swift brunch at a ball pit bar). Our flights themselves are unlikely to be report-worthy. This will be my first flight in World Traveler on British Airways, so I am personally interested in comparing it to both Club World and American's economy product. I plan to keep the report light in London (so as to not clog up the board with the xxxth such travelogue) before ramping up the commentary in Birmingham. Next stop: JFK Terminal 8. |
We quickly made it through the First check-in area and security and stopped at the Soho Lounge. I find this to be an exceptionally pleasant lounge. While the food offerings were not extensive (as with the Greenwich Lounge, the dinner buffet is a lot better, in my opinion), I thought that everything was tasty other than the potatoes, which were bland.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...648e85e350.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6bd11d68f1.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e09a184fd1.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9177e576ba.jpg The orderly boarding process began with pre-boards, and we boarded the plane with Group 1 two minutes after boarding started. |
A snafu--there appears to have been a plane swap that caught me unawares. While I am still in the emergency exit row aisle seat with unlimited leg room, my wife across the aisle is no longer in the first row. Others in her row said they suffered the same fate. I should have booked her the middle seat next to me. I offered to switch, but it's nearly physically impossible for me to fit in a seat with such little pitch. This is a lesson for me if I ever book World Traveler again. The trip can only go up from here!
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Looking forward to this report!
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Subscribed and looking forward to sharing your adventure.
Last time in went out for ‘posh nosh’ in Birmingham Opheem lost out to Tattu so I’ll be very interested to see what I missed. Personally I find all flights report-worthy, but I’m just nosey :D Same can be said for London travelogues. |
Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36302483)
Last time in went out for ‘posh nosh’ in Birmingham Opheem lost out to Tattu so I’ll be very interested to see what I missed.
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We had an on-time departure and a stroke of luck right after the doors closed--a seat was open in the emergency exit row on the other side, and the crew member offered my wife the opportunity to move.
The IFM announced that they are a crew member down, so all drinks will be served from the rear galley. I'll pass. Other than the crew members having different accents and serving slightly different food, this has been (unsurprisingly) identical to my experience flying across the Atlantic on American--friendly crew members, a comfortable enough seat and serviceable food. The breakfast was served within an hour of takeoff. I made an unspirited attempt at the glob of eggs, but the rest was edible. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c901f2b7ba.jpg As expected, not much to report on this flight but the disconcerting number of people entering the lavatory in socks or barefoot. |
Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36302702)
We had an on-time departure and a stroke of luck right after the doors closed--a seat was open in the emergency exit row on the other side, and the crew member offered my wife the opportunity to move.
The IFM announced that they are a crew member down, so all drinks will be served from the rear galley. I'll pass. Other than the crew members having different accents and serving slightly different food, this has been (unsurprisingly) identical to my experience flying across the Atlantic on American--friendly crew members, a comfortable enough seat and serviceable food. The breakfast was served within an hour of takeoff. I made an unspirited attempt at the glob of eggs, but the rest was edible. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c901f2b7ba.jpg As expected, not much to report on this flight but the disconcerting number of people entering the lavatory in socks or barefoot. |
I already like this TR simply for the fact that I can now add 'quotidian' to my lexicon. Thanks
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...39b2773df0.jpg
The "sausage empanada": had the consistency of a Hot Pocket microwaved without the crisper sleeve, but all in all, not bad. |
A bit behind because I left my phone on the charger...
Our first two nights are at the Renaissance St. Pancras. This is one of the most visually stunning hotels that I've ever stayed in. I will post a few pictures taken in the daylight tomorrow. By the time we dropped our bags off and took care of some things, it was almost 10 pm. We got an order in right before the restaurant closed at the hotel's combo bar/restaurant, Booking Office. The Singapore Sling replica, the "Million Dollar Cocktail," was delicious. I went to Raffles 18 years ago, but I thought it was a worthy imitator. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...30df75e792.jpg I also had to get the "Seelbach Cocktail," a bourbon/champagne cocktail named after a famous historic hotel in Louisville, Kentucky. After I repeated the name three times, the server said that I was the first person to order it. Everyone else is missing out. We closed out the night at Decimo, on the tenth floor of The Standard across the street. Great vibes and good music, slow service. And the view is tough to beat. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9fa78b06f5.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e39d1813f6.jpg Now, I'm about to turn in, with a full day tomorrow. To the extent that people criticize this hotel, this may be one reason why: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7cf32f5137.jpg This is the "newly refurbished" room we received as an upgrade--with Ambassador status. However, the room is comfortable and in good condition, and we are certainly not complaining. |
The tin of lounge water is slightly funny
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Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36302702)
As expected, not much to report on this flight but the disconcerting number of people entering the lavatory in socks or barefoot.
There's probably some sort of super-fungus evolving in that lav |
Well done - enjoying everything so far. I think the Renaissance St Pancras is a dreadful hotel and that room looks more like Harry Potters bedroom under the stairs.
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I’ve never had the pleasure (or misfortune perhaps?) to actually stay at the Renaissance St Pancras but have enjoyed the hospitality of the bar quite a few times in the past. I remember it as you describe, visually stunning. My wanderings of late haven’t taken me to that part of town at beer o’clock unfortunately. I’m quite shocked at the room, it looks like granny’s spare bedroom without the chintz.
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Originally Posted by eightblack
(Post 36304005)
that room looks more like Harry Potters bedroom under the stairs.
I’m quite shocked at the room, it looks like granny’s spare bedroom without the chintz. |
One other quarrel with this room: the combination of the low ceiling and elevated shower platform meant that I had to do a bit of "the Bernie" to use the rainfall shower head.
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Here are some daytime photos of the lobby and bar areas:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...feb2b8bf37.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...05946e3ac2.jpg The Chambers Club lounge was a quiet spot for breakfast. My understanding is that access is limited to Chambers Suite guests or Titanium and above. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f7ab7649ed.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a510003229.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7eb22a1a37.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ddee4097bd.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3bf67eab52.jpg Interesting selection of books |
I joked that this is the most expensive item in Harrods...the joke is on me because it is actually for sale.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...dd69bc542b.jpg "Price available upon request." |
The upside of Harrods is that there are multiple places to get a cocktail.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5c6dcdcd59.jpg Great Negroni at the Prada Caffe https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1aac74cbc4.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...060f413630.jpg Ramos Fix at the Baccarat Bar, where the conceit is that cocktails are inspired by photographic techniques. (This one is listed under "saturation.") |
After Harrods, we went took the Tube to Green Park for cocktails and dinner.
We had some time to kill and made an attempt at the Rivoli Bar in the Ritz but were turned away due to our "trainers," despite me wearing a jacket and trousers and my wife being similarly attired. I had actually read about this rule before but didn't think it applied to the bar. With such a policy, I think the Ritz is woefully behind the times, and I won't be returning. Following a brief stroll and a G&T, we went to Gymkhana's adjoining new-ish cocktail bar, 42. The standout was the "Bagheera," a spicy margarita cocktail made with weaver ant chutney and banasura peppercorn that had a deep and lasting spice profile, unlike most spicy cocktails that, in my experience, have a quickly fading bite. The Paloma and G&T variants were also memorable. From there, we went to Jamavar, a one Michelin Star restaurant. My verdict is that the food was good but not star-worthy. I can't say that the food was a multiplier better than the delivery I get every week or two in NYC, which it should have been for the price. The exemplary dish on the vegetarian tasting menu was the grilled paneer dish; on the non-vegetarian side, the lamb chop, soft shell crab, and sea bass were impressive. The sommelier was engaging and knowledgeable, and some of the wine choices were inspired. But if you're looking for a one Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in the general area, I'd recommend Amaya in Knightsbridge/Belgravia. Other than the wine, it far outperformed Jamavar at a lower price point. Pictures of the vegetarian tasting menu dishes are in the spoiler.
Spoiler
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...06d02031d5.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0ed65cead4.jpg Pushkin pairs well with tiki drinks. |
Just before I went to bed around 1:30, the toilet began to run violently. I wasn't going to call for maintenance at that hour. It sounded like the scene from "It" was being recreated in the bathroom all night--and I don't like clowns.
Otherwise, my impression of the hotel remains positive. Next up: the Avanti West Coast train to Birmingham. |
I would definitely try the Ritz again. As for food it’s easily the best French restaurant in all of Great Britain. It’s a bit stuffy but a seriously undervalued restaurant.
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Perhaps the first class car being the furthest down the platform means that we will be the closest to the exit in Birmingham, but that was quite a trek.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9eb5d20718.jpg I like the features of the seat. Upon arrival at our row, I was perturbed that the table did not fold up, but it's at a good height, and there is a generous amount of legroom. The wireless charger on the table is a nice touch. The car attendant invited us to move to the empty four-seater to spread out. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...2610033e10.jpg The attendant is very friendly and proactive. Out of the seven people in the car, we are the only ones who accepted food or drink. I can see why, as the food offerings left a bit to be desired.
Spoiler
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The Superior Room at the AC Birmingham is admittedly better than the room at the Renaissance St Pancras.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...41b3fcf1d8.jpg I love this view and look forward to strolling along the canal later. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ffb4c9fa04.jpg PS: What is this?? The best transit center sculpture I've seen. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ca854fc487.jpg |
Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36307000)
PS: What is this?? The best transit center sculpture I've seen.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ca854fc487.jpg |
Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36307050)
Were the animatronics and sound working?
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We made a brief sojourn to West Bromwich. The shopping mall is apparently the place to be in West Brom today. The car pack was at capacity.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...83adcbf9ae.jpg West Midlands has a great tram system. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...401f413df9.jpg Birmingham has a beautiful library. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5f3e894575.jpgNow, it is time for a cocktail along the canal, which is exceedingly pleasant in the sunshine, with live music at The Botanist. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c1331f8db6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...20147d1905.jpg |
Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36307097)
Unfortunately not!
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Opheem was a top 3 restaurant for me. In my opinion, the restaurant is worth a trip to Birmingham. The experience started and concluded in the lounge, where we had cocktails, and they served us five snacks and concluding sweets. Ten courses comprised the main event, and each item was inventive and delightful. The service was professional and precise, yet the staff members took time to engage with us and answer questions.
On the food front, I particularly enjoyed the lamb cutlet and aloo tuk potato dish. For the wine pairings, my favorites were the Numen Sauvignon Blanc and the Garzon Petit Verdot. Looking at the bottles online this morning, none is particularly expensive, but each was thoughtfully paired.
Spoiler
My only regret is that we were too full and tired to make it to the Boom Battle Bar. Today, we have a full schedule, commencing with the Shakespeare Express to Stratford. |
Thanks for the detailed Opheem review, that is definitely the destination of choice the next time I’m in B’ham for a celebration meal of any sort.
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Great review, I am getting hungry looking at those pictures!
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I'm not an enthusiast by any means, but I love train travel. The Shakespeare Express is run by Vintage Trains, which seems to be a largely volunteer-led organization. This was my first time on a steam engine train, and it was actually an efficient way to get from Birmimgham to Stratford-upon-Avon. The journey took just over an hour with three stops between Snow Hill and Stratford-upon-Avon.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...14cd15c0e0.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...dbc3c6d358.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...413104226b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cc355308c7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1e7a39c1bd.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1ed2a7b95a.jpg We had four hours to spend in Stratford-upon-Avon and spent a bit over an hour on a private walking tour with a knowledgeable guide. A recurring theme was buildings blowing up and/or burning. Stratford-upon-Avon is a lovely town. Not pictured is a park along the river with a boat rental and a chain ferry. I was eager to take the ferry, but we didn't have time. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...522fc511b2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9149893150.jpg Unfortunately, my finger made it into my only photograph of Shakespeare's birthplace. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7faf4d442d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...124989e013.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...dc1b0e7377.jpg After the tour, we had tea at The Fourteas. The decor was well done. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...effd228c96.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4b474784c5.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...378b990587.jpg Now, we are enjoying a drink at The Garrick, one of several establishments reputed to be the city's oldest. It was built sometime in the 1590s. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cd4ea0941a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...11e5ed1225.jpg |
Initially, I wanted to get dinner at a Balti spot tonight, but after two nights in a row having South Asian-inspired food, we decided to switch things up. Luckily, there is an all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria, Ridizio Rico, next to the hotel in the Cube building.
For those who are not familiar, in this type of restaurant, there is a salad bar/buffet and then roving servers with various types of meat (pork, beef, lamb, chicken) on spits. You indicate that you want the server to stop and cut you off a slice by flipping a coaster to the green side, and when you need a break or have the meat sweats, you flip to the red side. I'd rank this one below Fogo de Chao but above some of the smaller ones I've been to. It is worth a visit. I didn't take any pictures of the meat because there is no way they would look appetizing. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...748c9f21a3.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c132bfd056.jpg Great view from our table |
I feel very lucky to have visited Birmimgham because the night after having a top 3 meal, I had a top 3 bar experience at Passing Fancies (recommended by a server at Opheem). Coincidentally, for what it is worth, one recent survey rated Passing Fancies as the third-best bar in the U.K.
The space is open, with glass walls on three sides. The bar itself is a lower, larger version of a counter or wet bar that you might find in someone's home. This creates an inviting and homey atmosphere, despite the space being very new. The bartenders delivered the drinks to our tables and took the time to discuss the drinks--and the practice and philosophy behind them. Yes, the bar was quiet on a Sunday night with England playing (and no TVs). But I got the sense that the staff here genuinely love what they are doing and are eager to share what they are creating with others, customers and peers alike. The cocktails here have relatively simple components (~3 main ingredients), and the menu changes at least once a week based on what the staff can acquire at the local market. (We ordered off menu #117.) However, these ingredients are being transformed into cocktails using advanced techniques, like vacuum distillation. And the flavors are incredible--an "Adult Ribena" that tasted like a sweet, juicy blueberry; a twist on an old fashioned using Scotch and caramel made with a Guinness reduction; and the mai tai will serve as my standards for these cocktails going forward. Put simply, this place cares about the craft of making cocktails. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e6f0cceeb5.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f84ec38e8c.jpg |
I can't believe you where turned away at the Ritz! Surprised they are so strict.
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Really enjoying this report - and I have to say I wasn't familiar with Opheem but am now considering hopping on the train from London to Birmingham at some point to check it out!
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Originally Posted by daftboy
(Post 36310634)
I have to say I wasn't familiar with Opheem but am now considering hopping on the train from London to Birmingham at some point to check it out!
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At Birmimgham Airport. We should have left more time. There are only two agents at the Aer Lingus desk, and I think we are very unlikely to make the bag drop cut-off. To be continued...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c05ae22977.jpg |
Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36310654)
At Birmimgham Airport. We should have left more time. There are only two agents at the Aer Lingus desk, and I think we are very unlikely to make the bag drop cut-off. To be continued...
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