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We made it to the front of the line at exactly 10:45 and checked our bags without issue.
Birmingham is now tied with Edinburgh as my least favorite airport in the U.K. I purchased fast track security, and it was worthless. Three gentlemen in kilts who entered the regular queue ten minutes after us were in the duty area free post-security at the same time. The fast track line moved at a glacial pace. The problem as I saw it is that the scanner belt is located right to the left of a dividing wall in the temporary set-up that's in place, and one can't see the process until it's one's turn. That meant that most people were only using stations 1 and 2 to load containers, no one was using 3-5, and it wasn't possible to view others who could model a proper process. Of course, active instruction would have helped. I have a feeling this hallway is permanently under construction. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f6383c28a7.jpg I didn't observe issues with fluids. My wife's bag was stopped for secondary screening due to medicine, and the bag searched before hers had two cigarette lighters in it. I think those could be issues even without liquid rules. |
Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36310712)
Birmingham is now tied with Edinburgh as my least favorite airport in the U.K.
Glad you made it! |
When we made it to the hallway that led to gates 1-20, our plane was just pulling in.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9844f5587d.jpg Having not had breakfast, we stopped by the Aspire Lounge near Gate 1A as boarding was scheduled to commence. The Advantage ticket provided access. We spent five minutes in there. Twenty would have been enough. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...843fc379f9.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0cfb0cec11.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f556b40810.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f0d7e259b5.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...2bf49c1c8a.jpg I will amend my assessment of BHX because the gate area was actually okay--getting there was the problem. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ec9bd6089b.jpg When we scanned our boarding passes at 11:27, we were among the last to join the queue on the jetbridge. Given that we boarded the ATR-72 (operated by Emerald Airlines) from the back and were seated in the front, this worked out perfectly. Seat 1C provided a comfortable amount of legroom, we departed and arrived on time, the crew were friendly, and the buy-on-board muffin wasn't stale. A great flight. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a7c291c4bc.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...229aecd66b.jpg |
Belfast City offers a convenient arrivals experience. We were last off the plane, collected our bags, and were in a taxi within 15 minutes.
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We've now checked into the AC Belfast, where we were upgraded to a spacious suite. Most importantly, we have the first fully enclosed shower of the trip.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...08d831b2f3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...08634973b7.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e6f0d4874e.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7f7c3d8ecd.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b2ba8756a7.jpg A welcome gift of Jack Daniel's in Northern Ireland is hilarious. |
Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36310689)
There have been horror stories in the press of massive lines pre-security in Birmingham for an additional bag check due to the change in the Fluid rules, have you experienced anything like that?
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Nice room and compliments on that very neatly packed suitcase!
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Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36310924)
Nice room and compliments on that very neatly packed suitcase!
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In many ways, all distillery tours are the same--there are only so many methods to make liquor. The Titanic Distillers tour is unique because the distillery is housed in the pumphouse that served the drydock for the Belfast shipyard that produced the Titanic, and many of the pumphouse's components are still present. Our guide was polished and enthusiastic. The "homegrown" whiskey won't be available for at least two more years, the distillery having opened just last year. I didn't like the blend that Titanic had produced in collaboration with another distillery and sold under its label. Part of the blend had been stored in Scotch barrels, and the peaty flavor didn't do it for me. The vodka made of locally-grown sugar beets was smooth, and it was good in two cocktails we had in the Titanic Hotel afterward (having found the Titanic Experience ticket booth closed).
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We had dinner at James St. Everyone with whom we discussed our plans today reacted enthusiastically; one even said it was his favorite restaurant in Belfast. The key here is to make your reservation very early (before 6). If you come later like we did, not only will you miss out out on a fantastic deal (a tomahawk steak and bottle of wine for 85 GBP), the restaurant may be sold out of steaks for two entirely. James St does a brisk business, and many of the patrons were having a highly convivial Monday night.
I got the 270g fillet with peppercorn sauce. The sauce and fries were nearly perfect, and the steak got better with each bite, but at the end of the day, the dish was on par with steak frites I've had at random French bistros. I would go again, on the early side. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cbab285690.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0eb64b6186.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...083422d3cf.jpg We then walked to Orisha--thoughtfully prepared cocktails, but we were the only customers above ~22--before returning to the Duke of York/Commercial Court and getting a taxi back to the hotel. Other than the restaurant and the Commercial Court area, it was a sleepy Monday in Belfast. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3c06c89cee.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9056c07f87.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f2f7fe33d9.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3a8861cff1.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a7af261050.jpg |
Today's itinerary is a bus tour to Giant's Causeway. I picked the tour that seemed less Game of Thrones-centric/that didn't feature a deranged leprechaun in its logo. All the tourists who weren't out last night are here. The bus is full.
This is the first bus tour I've been on in some time. Generally, there is a driver and a guide narrating from the jump seat. This driver is capably performing double duty and even cueing music for effect at certain moments. We've packed an impressive amount of stops into this day, yet it hasn't felt rushed. We were left to our own devices at each stop, which I prefer. I avoid these tours now because the seats are cramped, but it's tough to beat a nine-hour tour for 33 GBP. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e9a71d481e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...325e6a06ae.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6d77619697.jpg One of several castles https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...057301624d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4bff7f7a89.jpg Cafeteria-style lunch at the Hedges Hotel was accompanied by two knights https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...51717d6160.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cc09ea0734.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0d67c5c677.jpg Bushmills--making whiskey since 1608 https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8bfa6dbe88.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3350aefea1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fbdef869ac.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3edf80b08f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...45c9564934.jpg Capped off Giant's Causeway with a drink at The Nook. The trip out here was smooth, but we had stragglers who were 20 minutes late to the bus at Giant's Causeway, and now we've apparently just hit a parked car while turning toward the exit. We are stalled as this gets sorted out. |
The accident must have been minor, as we were moving within five minutes. It was smooth sailing the rest of the way.
We got pre-dinner cocktails at the Merchant Hotel Cocktail Bar. This is an elegant bar, and a lot of effort went into the menu. The "browsing cocktail" and bar snacks that every customer is offered gratis are a nice touch. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...aad9d1ef2d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...249b86c8b3.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...18f78ef30e.jpg The cocktails are all named after adjectives that evoke a sensation. I went with the "Toasty," a smooth mai tai, in an attempt to banish the cold that seeped into my body during the walk. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6917f3296a.jpg Not as good as Passing Fancies, but very good. I would have gladly ordered another cocktail, but the server was absent over the next twenty+ minutes. That is the one criticism I have of Belfast: in many places, it was hard to get a first drink, and harder to get a second. |
We had dinner at Yugo, which I would describe as an Asian fusion small plates restaurant. As with James St, it was full of diners of all (adult) ages.
The menu had some inventive spins on familiar dishes. The Szechuan lamb croquettes, tofu and butternut squash dumplings, and short rib massaman curry were all phenomenal. Every dish was very good. The Thai colada was dangerously delicious, like a mango lassi. The food came out quickly (which was nice), and the servers were occupied bringing food out to the patrons, so there wasn't much interaction with them. But if I am being honest, I would rank this meal above Jamavar on this trip, at a fraction of the price. It's worth a visit if you're in Belfast.
Spoiler
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Belfast City is also a great departure airport. There were at least six agents staffing the Aer Lingus desk, and we would have checked bags and been through Fast Track security within five minutes had we not both been selected for secondary screening. The culprits seem to have been our tablets, although I didn't see a sign instructing us to remove them from our bags. Perhaps all U.K. airports have this, but I liked that secondary screening had its own mini scanner, which allowed the second scan to be done expeditiously.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...de61c7e91a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e41e134c00.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ad40ae8e15.jpg The Aspire Lounge is located to the left once you pass through duty free and reach the concourse. While the design shares some features with the Birmimgham gate 1A lounge, this one is far superior. It has an open and airy feeling because large windows flood it with light. The food and drink are the usual suspects, but I appreciated that there were ample cordials and other mixers for making cocktails and cans of Guinness on offer (although it was too early for me to want either). The robotic pancake maker was really fun to use; the pancakes it produced were mediocre. There are signs warning patrons that photography and recording are strictly prohibited and that failure to comply with this direction will result in ejection from the lounge, so I won't post any pictures. One lounge feature that I have never noticed elsewhere is the sign near the wine that lists the escalating consequences for various situations involving unruly behavior, including a fine of up to 80,000 GBP for a diverted flight. |
The departures board announced our gate sometime around 9:15 for our 9:45 departure. We initially overlooked the door leading to Gates 1-3 (downstairs), but luckily there is nothing past it to get lost in.
Emerald Air's nature as a low-cost carrier has been a lot more evident this time. It is 9:38, and we haven't yet boarded. Three minutes ago, an agent patrolled the ranks and pulled people aside to test their bags against the sizer. Looks to be another full flight. Next stop (eventually): Edinburgh. |
As I anticipated once 9:45 rolled around, the plane has a maintenance issue. We've been told to expect a 20-30 minute delay. While I predict that the delay will be far longer, I don't trust the boarding announcement to reach the lounge. Thankfully, there is plenty of space available, and we have a front row seat to the action here.
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The gate agent's estimate wasn't too far off. The PA system alerted us that we should report to the gate at about 10:25. Boarding started with rows 1-10, and we were in our seats by 10:32. We will probably be just over an hour delayed.
The legroom on the other side of the aisle was better, but Seat 1D is fine. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1645e1b1a4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ee7cd832b2.jpg |
As expected, we were an hour late into Edinburgh. However, we still came out ahead compared to our last experience here because the bags were out and the belt was stopped by the time we used the restroom and made it downstairs.
We are now unpacking in the Wow suite at the W Edinburgh. I'd say this is worthy of two Nightly Upgrade awards. NB: the minibar is complimentary. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fee04b2932.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fbf3949381.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...683410fd3c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5714b85768.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6c042182cb.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...876d801d82.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f2f2767f7a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f6abb9be2b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1a66b65f61.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...edd6dda695.jpg |
That really is well named, Wow!
Whats the oddness on the top shelf of the minibar? |
Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36315446)
Whats the oddness on the top shelf of the minibar? |
It's a stunningly beautiful day in Edinburgh.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...37ad50de36.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...61cfd61e63.jpg We stopped for lunch at Milnes Bar. This was a haunt of Scottish poets in the 50s and 60s and was the site of such ferment that it was dubbed "Little Kremlin." While much sanitized now, it serves a solid steak and ale pie, which paired well with an Edinburgh classic gin and tonic. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0a8898c22c.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...81f0fbbe94.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...351dec77a2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1fdddc2da5.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cbafee683f.jpg |
The Writers' Museum houses a collection of items related to Robert Louis Stevenson, Robert Burns, and Walter Scott.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...26f4d9e598.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0d07696d2f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c19e194977.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a565a7980e.jpg After, we stopped in at the Jolly Judge for a drink. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...366de3774c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8d7ce3d5b2.jpg |
Waterstones Cafe has an impressive view of the castle.
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Panda & Sons: two cocktails in--wow, these are delicious. Worthy of its top 50 designation.
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Keeping this report live has been tough, mainly because my phone battery keeps dying. I made the above post at 6 PM, and my phone shut down soon thereafter.
A few more notes on Panda & Sons, ranked #39 by the World's Best Bars list: while it is located in a traditional pub space, its techniques are anything but. Its cocktails fall into four main categories of preparation: switching, freeze drying, sous pression, and frozen delights. The illustrated menu helpfully provides an explanation of each. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...45acaad15d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3eef4328e1.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b3a91cec9a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6b51bc2e46.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...94f0bb543e.jpg |
Great pics throughout your report!
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Originally Posted by lamphs
(Post 36317616)
Great pics throughout your report!
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Originally Posted by ewh9
(Post 36317585)
Keeping this report live has been tough, mainly because my phone battery keeps dying. I made the above post at 6 PM, and my phone shut down soon thereafter.
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Last night, we had dinner at Condita, a one Michelin star restaurant located in a more residential area. We caught the end of the spring menu. The decor in the restaurant changes based on the season/menu, and this season had a kaleidoscope theme. Regrettably, I didn't get a picture of the interior.
A summer night is a great time to visit the restaurant, as the skylight illuminates the space with natural light. The restaurant has a maximum capacity of 5-6 tables, so you are guaranteed an intimate experience. We were the first diners at 7 PM, and the diners for two other tables arrived later (a table of 2 at 7:30 and a solo diner at 8 pm). So, for our amuse bouche courses and initial wine pairing, we had a private dining experience, and not much changed once the others arrived. Condita doesn't publish a menu. Instead, they provide a bookmark that hints at what's to come. Much of the produce comes from the restaurant's garden. There were two servers who worked in tandem, one of whom is also a sommelier. They were formal yet very engaging and responded to our enjoyment of the meal. While the atmosphere was naturally a bit reserved, it was unfussy. A record player played throughout the meal. This was a delightful experience. Pictures follow in the spoiler. I won't attempt to name most of the ingredients--because some dishes had upwards of 10 ingredients rattled off by the servers--but will try to identify some of the less evident ones.
Spoiler
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Ok... you and I do not have the same definition of 'low brow'...
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We closed out the night at Bramble, #31 on a recent best bars in the U.K. list. Some friends of my wife met us. It had a great lively vibe with good hip hop music. All three cocktails that I had were excellent; the last one tasted exactly like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bb53a0dbf8.jpg Its basement location is easy to miss https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...772b7e316e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e87e0947a8.jpg Caribana https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9a97883f60.jpg Kimchi tai https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ab732edda4.jpg Amica nova |
We had a late start today and asked to push back our Johnnie Walker Experience booking. They helpfully accommodated us. We got lunch at the Painted Rooster. It was hard to select something from the menu due to the bountiful choices, but the pierogis and pastrami toastie were tasty.
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Originally Posted by PLeblond
(Post 36317796)
Ok... you and I do not have the same definition of 'low brow'...
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Originally Posted by JapesUK
(Post 36317768)
This is a problem I've faced quite a few times, having to beg a fast charge from others whilst out, and in Niagara even buying a charger and cable. I've just bought a battery back for the phone AND a plug in battery. Not sure what phone you have but photos and uploading seem to kill my fairly new iPhone in short order.
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With a bit of time before Johnnie Walker, we have stopped by an empty Chillie Dhu. I am trying the Glaswegian raspberry rhubarb gin (based on the rectangular bottle), and I really like it.
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Looking forward to the JW review, I didn’t have time on my last whistle-stop visit and it’s on the list to return as it’s only an hour away on the train (although I’d probably fly :D) and a great trip report overall too may I say, much jealousy and many good ideas for the future being stored away.
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Two thumbs up for the Johnnie Walker Experience. This isn't a distillery tour (and Johnnie Walker doesn't distill its own whisky anyway), but I still learned something about the distillation process.
The audiovisual features of the tour were quite impressive. My favorite part was the second room, where an actor talks about the history of the company on a stage with two moving walkways and a sliding globe, accompanied by some AV effects. Before the tour, you do a quiz that provides you with your preferred flavor profile. (These are later visualized as colors on a color wheel.) At the outset, you are given a wristband based on your result. There were about five stops focusing on different aspects of the company's history and whisky production. At the third, you get a cocktail based on your wristband color, served from an automatic dispenser. These are all highballs made with various whiskys, accompanied by a garnish. At the end of the experience, you get your choice of two cocktails or drams of whisky. I am still not a fan of Johnnie Walker, but the cocktails were solid. The experience lasts about 80 minutes. I was skeptical going in, but I'm glad we did it.
Spoiler
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After Johnnie Walker, we went up to The Gently Mad, an antiquarian bookstore and bookbinder in the northern part of the city. It is small but has an impressive collection of books. The fiction selection is limited, but I picked up a Graham Greene novel I haven't read yet.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...352c76124f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d422057792.jpg Afterward, we walked down a few doors to The Tollhouse, where we enjoyed a cocktail and some snacks along the river. I liked the Mexican Negroni. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c038c04862.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4ae1e12b54.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c1a68f4d12.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fd0e85a250.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...041a5709d6.jpg |
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