Thanks for the detailed Opheem review, that is definitely the destination of choice the next time I’m in B’ham for a celebration meal of any sort.

Great review, I am getting hungry looking at those pictures!

I'm not an enthusiast by any means, but I love train travel. The Shakespeare Express is run by Vintage Trains, which seems to be a largely volunteer-led organization. This was my first time on a steam engine train, and it was actually an efficient way to get from Birmimgham to Stratford-upon-Avon. The journey took just over an hour with three stops between Snow Hill and Stratford-upon-Avon.








We had four hours to spend in Stratford-upon-Avon and spent a bit over an hour on a private walking tour with a knowledgeable guide. A recurring theme was buildings blowing up and/or burning. Stratford-upon-Avon is a lovely town. Not pictured is a park along the river with a boat rental and a chain ferry. I was eager to take the ferry, but we didn't have time.



Unfortunately, my finger made it into my only photograph of Shakespeare's birthplace.




After the tour, we had tea at The Fourteas. The decor was well done.



Now, we are enjoying a drink at The Garrick, one of several establishments reputed to be the city's oldest. It was built sometime in the 1590s.

Initially, I wanted to get dinner at a Balti spot tonight, but after two nights in a row having South Asian-inspired food, we decided to switch things up. Luckily, there is an all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria, Ridizio Rico, next to the hotel in the Cube building.

For those who are not familiar, in this type of restaurant, there is a salad bar/buffet and then roving servers with various types of meat (pork, beef, lamb, chicken) on spits. You indicate that you want the server to stop and cut you off a slice by flipping a coaster to the green side, and when you need a break or have the meat sweats, you flip to the red side.

I'd rank this one below Fogo de Chao but above some of the smaller ones I've been to. It is worth a visit.

I didn't take any pictures of the meat because there is no way they would look appetizing.


Great view from our table

I feel very lucky to have visited Birmimgham because the night after having a top 3 meal, I had a top 3 bar experience at Passing Fancies (recommended by a server at Opheem). Coincidentally, for what it is worth, one recent survey rated Passing Fancies as the third-best bar in the U.K.

The space is open, with glass walls on three sides. The bar itself is a lower, larger version of a counter or wet bar that you might find in someone's home. This creates an inviting and homey atmosphere, despite the space being very new. The bartenders delivered the drinks to our tables and took the time to discuss the drinks--and the practice and philosophy behind them. Yes, the bar was quiet on a Sunday night with England playing (and no TVs). But I got the sense that the staff here genuinely love what they are doing and are eager to share what they are creating with others, customers and peers alike.

The cocktails here have relatively simple components (~3 main ingredients), and the menu changes at least once a week based on what the staff can acquire at the local market. (We ordered off menu #117.) However, these ingredients are being transformed into cocktails using advanced techniques, like vacuum distillation. And the flavors are incredible--an "Adult Ribena" that tasted like a sweet, juicy blueberry; a twist on an old fashioned using Scotch and caramel made with a Guinness reduction; and the mai tai will serve as my standards for these cocktails going forward. Put simply, this place cares about the craft of making cocktails.

I can't believe you where turned away at the Ritz! Surprised they are so strict.

Really enjoying this report - and I have to say I wasn't familiar with Opheem but am now considering hopping on the train from London to Birmingham at some point to check it out!

I would!

At Birmimgham Airport. We should have left more time. There are only two agents at the Aer Lingus desk, and I think we are very unlikely to make the bag drop cut-off. To be continued...

There have been horror stories in the press of massive lines pre-security in Birmingham for an additional bag check due to the change in the Fluid rules, have you experienced anything like that?

We made it to the front of the line at exactly 10:45 and checked our bags without issue.

Birmingham is now tied with Edinburgh as my least favorite airport in the U.K. I purchased fast track security, and it was worthless. Three gentlemen in kilts who entered the regular queue ten minutes after us were in the duty area free post-security at the same time.

The fast track line moved at a glacial pace. The problem as I saw it is that the scanner belt is located right to the left of a dividing wall in the temporary set-up that's in place, and one can't see the process until it's one's turn. That meant that most people were only using stations 1 and 2 to load containers, no one was using 3-5, and it wasn't possible to view others who could model a proper process. Of course, active instruction would have helped.

I have a feeling this hallway is permanently under construction.


I didn't observe issues with fluids. My wife's bag was stopped for secondary screening due to medicine, and the bag searched before hers had two cigarette lighters in it. I think those could be issues even without liquid rules.

Ever been to Manchester Airport�?

Glad you made it!

When we made it to the hallway that led to gates 1-20, our plane was just pulling in.


Having not had breakfast, we stopped by the Aspire Lounge near Gate 1A as boarding was scheduled to commence. The Advantage ticket provided access. We spent five minutes in there. Twenty would have been enough.





I will amend my assessment of BHX because the gate area was actually okay--getting there was the problem.

When we scanned our boarding passes at 11:27, we were among the last to join the queue on the jetbridge. Given that we boarded the ATR-72 (operated by Emerald Airlines) from the back and were seated in the front, this worked out perfectly.

Seat 1C provided a comfortable amount of legroom, we departed and arrived on time, the crew were friendly, and the buy-on-board muffin wasn't stale. A great flight.

Belfast City offers a convenient arrivals experience. We were last off the plane, collected our bags, and were in a taxi within 15 minutes.

We've now checked into the AC Belfast, where we were upgraded to a spacious suite. Most importantly, we have the first fully enclosed shower of the trip.






A welcome gift of Jack Daniel's in Northern Ireland is hilarious.