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offerendum Nov 9, 2023 1:37 pm

Villa Feltrenelli
 
Let's take a look inside the villa: The interior rooms on the ground floor are largely in their original state. Even if I wouldn't furnish myself like this, the rooms are very beautiful and impressive.
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Then a quick look at the first floor, where the guest rooms are located.
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offerendum Nov 11, 2023 9:15 am

Villa Feltrenelli
 
The advantage of Villa Feltrenelli is that it is strongly focussed on its guests. When I asked about breakfast times, the answer was that it starts at 7 and lasts until we get up. I praise that, such flexibility is rare.
We always had breakfast on the terrace.
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The first thing that greets you is the beautiful view.
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Breakfast is ordered completely a la carte.
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The selection is relatively normal, totally unusual things were missing. The food itself was good, although not outstanding. Nevertheless, we were unquestionably satisfied.
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offerendum Nov 12, 2023 2:11 pm

Salò
 
Of course, we don't just want to stay in Villa Feltrenelli, we also want to get out and about. First of all, we went to Salò. It's a beautiful little town with lots of old buildings.
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LuciaSemon Nov 13, 2023 1:18 am

The photos are nice, thanks for sharing, have you visited any museums? the reviews say they are quite interesting

offerendum Nov 13, 2023 2:42 am


Originally Posted by LuciaSemon (Post 35740563)
The photos are nice, thanks for sharing, have you visited any museums? the reviews say they are quite interesting

In Saló? Yes, the MuSa, will report about it later.

offerendum Nov 13, 2023 4:13 pm

Duomo Salò
 
To start with, Salò is not a bishop's see, but the main church is still called the Duomo.
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At first the church was closed (lunch break), but I came back. Inside is a classic church, there are also cloths to cover your shoulders.
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offerendum Nov 14, 2023 2:56 pm

Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato Salò
 
It is a small church with a special feature. A considerable number of relics have been collected in an adjoining room.
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offerendum Nov 14, 2023 2:59 pm

MuSa Salò
 
The MuSa is the historical museum of Salò, which presents the history of the region since ancient times. The building is also interesting, it is a former church.
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offerendum Nov 15, 2023 3:38 pm

La Casa del Dolce Salò
 
But now it was definitely time for a gelato. La Casa del Dolce had made it into the top 100 of the last Dissapore list (no. 95) and received one Cono from Gambero Rosso.
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The selection was very promising.
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Our selection.
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The gelato was really very good, I can highly recommend it. When I came back to the church later, it was really full, so it's no secret.
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offerendum Nov 16, 2023 3:18 pm

Gelateria Ciocolat Toscolano Maderno
 
On the way back there was a stop at Ciocolat. The gelateria was ranked 52nd in the last Dissapore list, and 36th the year before. In 2017, Gambero Rosso awarded it the title of up-and-coming ice cream maker of the year.
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The selection was quite large, some of the flavours were unusual and creative.
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The gelato was of very good quality, you can go there more often. I did, but more on that later;)
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offerendum Nov 17, 2023 8:58 am

Lido84
 
When I was researching restaurants on Lake Garda, I naturally came across Lido84, which is just 12 kilometres from Villa Feltrenelli and has a Michelin star. It is also number 7 in the San Pellegrino list worldwide, making it the best-ranked restaurant in Italy. Of course, I know that the former first-placed "Best of the Best" restaurants are not included in the list, but in Italy this is only the Osteria Francescana, which in my opinion is rather disappointing. So once again, the list and the Michelin are falling apart somewhat, and the Lido84 has also retained one star in 2024.
However, the restaurant's ranking makes it very popular. I didn't book directly on the day the reservations opened at 12 noon, but a day later. As a result, I was only able to put myself on the waiting list for 3 days. Then, 1 week before our arrival at Lake Garda, I was informed that a table had become available.
Unexpectedly, on the evening of the dinner, travelling there was a problem. While the 12 kilometres should normally take a maximum of 15 minutes, it took us around 1 hour! It just sucked, you could almost have walked. By the time the photo was taken, we had already covered quite a distance.
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The restaurant itself is quite inconspicuous. Although it is located on the waterfront, you didn't really have a view in the dark.
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While the menu still cost €85.00 when it was booked in April 2023, they now want €130.00 for 7 courses and €150.00 for 9 courses. A hefty increase, but there are worse things on the market at the moment.
The courses themselves weren't exactly big, so the 9 courses have to be put into perspective. But they were really filling, so it was more than enough. I can't remember everything and can't really understand it from the menu.
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This is the first Signature Dish: Speghettoni, Butter, Yeast Crumble.
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This was immediately followed by the next signature dish, namely "Risotto, Black Garlic, Berries".
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Contrary to what you might think, it wasn't the kitchen crew who got drunk here, but the plate design is intended to honour the artist Stefano Bambardieri.
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Next came a bit of cinema, we had "400° Eggplant alla Parmigiana".
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It's basically a totally burnt aubergine on the outside, but it's juicy on the inside.
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The main dessert was a huge yeast pastry. It was dgood, but in my opinion far too much, too heavy and rather disappointing as a finale to such a dinner.
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The bill was relatively manageable.
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How was it? It was a good dinner, everything tasted good. But it's certainly not number 7 in the world - San Pellegrino seems to be joking again. I think 1 star is OK overall, but you could also go for 2 stars. But certainly not more.

drminn Nov 17, 2023 12:47 pm

I'd give it a PG on the food porn scale :eek:.

Fabo.sk Nov 17, 2023 2:03 pm

Now those prices (despite portion sizes, but then agian, 9 courses, so taking that in mind) are more like it, unlike the previous restaurant where I felt were a bit overcharging.

Especially the April price, 85 eur for 7(?) courses feels like a steal.

offerendum Nov 17, 2023 3:47 pm


Originally Posted by Fabo.sk (Post 35753219)
Now those prices (despite portion sizes, but then agian, 9 courses, so taking that in mind) are more like it, unlike the previous restaurant where I felt were a bit overcharging.

Especially the April price, 85 eur for 7(?) courses feels like a steal.

So far it has only been Feltrenelli (Sacher was included) and in my opinion the Lido84 is a better value. The €85 was actually a steal, the €150.00 is definitely still fair.

offerendum Nov 17, 2023 3:49 pm


Originally Posted by drminn (Post 35752992)
I'd give it a PG on the food porn scale :eek:.

My father would definitely have enjoyed it:D

tom tulpe Nov 18, 2023 12:17 am

That water was surprisingly inexpensive (unless you got tap water). I've paid € 5 in quite ordinary places over the last couple weeks in France, and don't get me started on Switzerland.

offerendum Nov 18, 2023 3:24 am


Originally Posted by tom tulpe (Post 35754029)
That water was surprisingly inexpensive (unless you got tap water). I've paid € 5 in quite ordinary places over the last couple weeks in France, and don't get me started on Switzerland.

It wasn't tap water, it was San Pellegrino (not my favorite). In many restaurants in Italy water was relatively reasonable priced, often even a flat and sometimes for free.

offerendum Nov 18, 2023 10:17 am

Panorama al Fil
 
The next morning we set off for the Santuario Di Montecastello. On the way, we stopped at Panorama al Fil. It's a bar, but it was closed. The view is magnificent.
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offerendum Nov 19, 2023 8:17 am

Santuario Di Montecastello
 
Next we went up to the Santuario Di Montecastello. The path is quite steep and narrow, especially on the last few metres. The car park is also quite special, as you park on a steep driveway. On one side the door bangs open, on the other you have to push hard. I would be careful parking under another car, depending on the driver or passenger you are sure to get a nice dent.
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The complex looks most impressive in aerial photographs, but the entrance is also nice to look at.
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Behind the entrance you can see the actual church.
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The church itself is relatively classic and typical of a pilgrimage church.
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There is also a lower church under the main church.
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Another place of devotion.
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The real highlight, however, are the views.
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A few metres further down is the Panchina gigante n. 238 Tignale.
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There is also a good view from here.
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Fabo.sk Nov 19, 2023 9:32 am

Did you upgrade, or is that just a random parked car?

offerendum Nov 19, 2023 2:52 pm


Originally Posted by Fabo.sk (Post 35756910)
Did you upgrade, or is that just a random parked car?

No, that's mine. Whether it's really an upgrade is another question. In any case, it is significantly more expensive;)

Fabo.sk Nov 19, 2023 3:03 pm

Surely it's not as bad as to call it enhancement, right? :D

offerendum Nov 19, 2023 3:46 pm


Originally Posted by Fabo.sk (Post 35757594)
Surely it's not as bad as to call it enhancement, right? :D

No, but to be honest, I would have hoped for more. Somehow I was more satisfied with the BMW overall. The Porsche is a beautiful car, no question. But so was the BMW, and with the Porsche there are always little things that don't work properly. Nothing dramatic, but annoying.

Fabo.sk Nov 19, 2023 4:38 pm

I can imagine.

Well all I can say I'm quite satisfied with my car from the other Stuttgart brand, albeit an older model.

offerendum Nov 20, 2023 3:00 pm

San Benedetto Limone sul Garda
 
Next we stopped in Limone sul Garda. The first place of interest was the church of San Benedetto.
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Although the church was in the city, there was even a view.
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offerendum Nov 21, 2023 2:11 pm

Limonaia del Castel Limone sul Garda
 
Who could have guessed it? The main attraction of Limone sul Garda is a limonaia. Admission costs a few euros, but you get to see a multi-storey limonaia with lots of citrus plants.
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offerendum Nov 22, 2023 2:01 pm

Limone sul Garda
 
The heart of the city is the riverside promenade. Everything is pretty, but nothing extraordinary. Too touristy for me, even in October.
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offerendum Nov 23, 2023 4:02 pm

Vittoriale degli italiani
 
The Vittoriale degli italiani is the former villa of Gabriele D'Annunzio, a highly controversial writer and fascist. The latter in particular is accepted quite uncritically here, and if you look at the election results, many people don't seem to think it's such a bad thing. Unfortunately, the idiots aren't getting any fewer; in many places around the world, including my home country, right-wing ideas are becoming more and more acceptable.
The area is a mixture of many things: in addition to the house, there is an arena, a theatre, a museum, a mausoleum and, last but not least, the garden with a battleship, the Puglia. It's all quite bizarre, to be honest.
We had a ticket that included a guided tour of the villa. Photography was forbidden, so no photos. But I have to say that the interior was one of the ugliest houses I've ever seen. In addition, everything was very dark (D'Annunzio had an eye disease) and it smelt musty everywhere. GF cancelled the tour after 5 minutes, an elderly woman collapsed. Not a nice place to be honest.
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offerendum Nov 24, 2023 4:05 pm

Chiesa di San Nicolò da Bari
 
Directly opposite the Vittoriale degli italiani is the church of San Nicolò da Bari. It is a Baroque church with paintings by Andrea Celesti and Francesco Monti. There is a view on top.
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offerendum Nov 25, 2023 8:03 am

La Tortuga Gargnano
 
In the evening we went to La Tortuga. What sounds like a disreputable pirate shop with Jack Sparrow lying in the corner is actually an old family restaurant that has been awarded a Michelin star for many years.
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The furnishings are quite unconventional, but somehow cosy.
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The menus offer good value with 4 courses for €110.00 and €120.00 for 5 courses, but we wanted to eat a la carte.
Bread
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Amuse Bouche
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A mix of small tastes from the lake and the sea
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Scallops on Lamon beans sauce, rosemary flavoured oil
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Spaghettini with fish ragù
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Tagliolini, prawns and radicchio from Treviso
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https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...953a9b22f7.jpgTombea cheese cannoli, mountain butter and caramelized pears
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Perch fillets, with rosemary breadcrums
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Char in white wine, chanterelles and local truffle
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Dessert
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Petit fours
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The bill
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A really good meal, we enjoyed all the dishes. Personally, I preferred it to Lido84 because it was simply "down-to-earth" Italian cuisine. The prices are also reasonable, you can eat even cheaper with a set menu.

1P Nov 25, 2023 10:57 am

Last time we were in this part of the world, we ate at La Tortuga in Gargano and liked it so much we went back there the following evening as well. Good food and charming staff at reasonable prices.

offerendum Nov 25, 2023 12:25 pm


Originally Posted by 1P (Post 35771346)
Last time we were in this part of the world, we ate at La Tortuga in Gargano and liked it so much we went back there the following evening as well. Good food and charming staff at reasonable prices.

It was closed the next evening, otherwise I would have tried to get a table.

JapesUK Nov 25, 2023 1:39 pm


Originally Posted by offerendum (Post 35765237)
The heart of the city is the riverside promenade. Everything is pretty, but nothing extraordinary. Too touristy for me, even in October.

What makes it ‘too touristy’? Nothing really stands out in the photos

offerendum Nov 25, 2023 4:47 pm


Originally Posted by JapesUK (Post 35771609)
What makes it ‘too touristy’? Nothing really stands out in the photos

The kind of restaurants, ice cream (not gelato!) shops with Spaghetti-ice, many tourists, souvenir-shops.

offerendum Nov 27, 2023 3:10 pm

Gargnano
 
We walked around Gargnano at night for a while.
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At the pharmacy, there was a vending machine that was noticeably heavy on certain products.
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offerendum Nov 29, 2023 12:32 pm

Castello Scaligero Malcesine
 
The next morning we travelled to Malcesine. The journey is long as the ferry didn't run and we were allowed to drive once around the lake. In Malcesine we went to Scalier Castle.
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There is not an infinite amount to see inside. There is modern art on display, but otherwise you have beautiful views from the tower and there is a small natural history museum. There is also the Goethe Room, because the castle is known from Goethe's travelogue. He was supposedly arrested here as an Austrian spy.
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offerendum Nov 30, 2023 12:43 pm

San Viglio
 
San Viglio is a small complex with a villa (not open to the public), a hotel and some old buildings. Quite nice, but contrary to what my travel guide says, it's not a must-see.
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offerendum Dec 1, 2023 4:48 pm

Santa Maria Assunta Garda
 
Our next stop was the town of Garda, where we first went to the Santa Maria Assunta church.
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offerendum Dec 4, 2023 10:51 am

Garda
 
The tour of Garda began on the promenade and continued in the town centre. Everything was pretty, but nothing more. Garda is not the highlight of the lake.
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offerendum Dec 4, 2023 11:06 am

Lazise
 
The sightseeing programme ended in Lazise. A town with old city walls and pretty houses.
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The church SS. Zeno e Martino
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There is still a castle and a Romanesque church at the harbour, but it was already late and we were tired.


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