Is this country at war? I stepped into warzone - Kyiv
Oct 1, 2023, 2:41 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2014
Programs: krisflyer, Asiana Club
Posts: 63
Is this country at war? I stepped into warzone - Kyiv
It was 25 September. I packed my bag, book my flights, buses and hotels, on my way to the country at war - Ukraine. This is not a spontaneous trip, but a carefully planned journey. In fact, I didn't plan where I wanted to visit at all, mostly just wandering on streets, to experience life in Ukraine, a country is torning apart.
It was early morning. The flight from Dublin to Lublin departed at 06:20. It arrived at the airport at 01:00 berceuse there is no public transport in midnight from where I live!! It was painful. It was 2.5 hours flight but I only managed to sleep 1 hour during the flight. The price of this Ryanair ticket is 67.13 Euro, without luggage and seat. It was a 737-800 MAX and departed on time.
Lublin Airport is a very small airport. There is only about 15 flights a day. It is too quiet even their staff spend most of their time on their phone. The Plane arrived at 10:20. Immigration process was fast and smooth because we were the only arrival flight at that time. However because of the size of the airport, there are little public transport to the city. I waited 2 hours for next bus to go to the city center.
Lublin Old town is very small, the main attritions are cathedrals and a castle. I visited the State Museum of Majdanek, however when I arrived there, sorry Monday they closed!! Because I didn't do my homework, I didn't even plan my trip and where eastly I wanted to go, thus this happened.
The State Museum of Majdanek outside
My bus departed from Lublin at 18:25. The bus arrived on time. Now the only way to Ukraine is through land. There are several operators operating buses from Poland to Ukraine. I picked Flix bus because its reputation, Wi-Fi and plug socket onboard. I couldn't find any information about train to Kyiv, therefore bus is the only option for me although I hate riding a bus.
At Poland-Ukraine border
It took us 2 hours to complete customs and border clearance. I saw there is a miles long trucks queuing to enter to Ukraine. Because there is no water and air transport to Ukraine, everything, either import or export must go by land. Thus the inflation rate in Ukraine is extremely high. The place we were called Berdyszcze, it is the northernmost checkpoint of both countries.
Stamp on my passport.
After crossing the border, we had a short break at a Ukraine store. Now I am in the warzone. It feels so unreal. Cards are widely accepted in Ukraine, but sometimes cash is better because of the exchange rate. Here I exchanged my money to Hryvnia with a traveler. I knew the market rate at that time was 39.3UAH = 1 EUR, he offered me 40UAH to 1 EUR.I thought I had a bargain, later I found out the rate at currency exchange store in Kyiv is 40.5 to 1 EUR......
It is interesting that the currency market rate is different to the actual rate. I believe most people loved to exchange money to you because they dont trust Hryvnia. In July 2022 the government announced devaluation 25% of Hryvnia. This means inflation rate goes up 25%!
Food in Kyiv are expensive, however drinks are cheap. A McDonalds meal is about 200 UAH and a 1 person mid scale restaurant is about 400 UAH. Metro sill 8 UAH per trip.
At 05:45, the bus arrived Kyiv on time. It was so early that I had no idea what I'm going to do. It just passed the curfew and people are still in their dream. Shops are closed and public transport just started running. It is too early to check in to my hotel, unless I am willing to pay extra night.
Sophia Square, here they commemorate the fallen heroes at the beginning of the war.
Mykhailivska Square, right in front of St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery. Destroyed vehicles were displaced here, both Russian and Ukraine side. No Tanks were found here.
Next to the square is a wall to commemorate the fallen heroes of 2014 Donbas War. It listed thousands of soldiers who perished during the war.
Glass Bridge. It was bombed by Russian on 10 October 2022. Now it is repaired and reopened.
Arch of Freedom of the Ukrainian People. It was built to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of the USSR. Origin name was Monument to commemorate the reunification of Ukraine with Russia, it was renamed due to Russian invasion and the sculptures beneath the arch were removed.
View from near the Arch. Dnipro river and northern Kyiv view.
Independence Monument, the most iconic landmark of Ukraine. Revolution took place here in 2014.
Open air Military equipment vehicles museum.
T-64 tank, standard Ukraine Army tank
BM-21 "Grad". Widely used by both side during the war. It can fire 40 rockets at the same time. Low accuracy but can lower enemy's moral. It turns target area into ashes.
A destroyed vehicle.
More equipments displayed outside Local Conflicts' Museum.
Ukrainian Motherland Monument. Unfortunately it was closed when I was there. Reason was unknown. You can see it has changed to Ukrainian Trident.
Be Brave like Ukraine.
Cheval de frise.
View from Poshtova Square
View from Khreshchatyy Park. Down there is Park Bridge.
This beautiful city is at war. Air raid siren can be heard every week. During my visit I heard one air raid siren. It lasted 20 mins. There was another siren during my visit but I was at the hotel and didn't hear anything. However hotel announced that air raid siren went off and everyone should go to the nearest shelter (Of course nobody gave a ....). People are used to hearing the siren and no longer go to find shelter when it is going off. Most of drones and missiles were shot down by Ukrainian Army. Kyiv is much safer that it was.
There is another way to cross the river. Do you dare to try?
Near Mariinskyi Palace, where Zelensky work and live (Or not, or beneath it). Anyone without permission is not allowed to get closer to the palace.
The famous metro station, Arsenalna. It is 105m deep and it takes 4 mins to go to the platform from entrance. It is the deepest metro station in the world.
View from Park of Eternal Glory
It was a short 3 days journey. And I was on my way back to Warsaw. The bus departed at 22:30, one and half hour before curfew. It was supposed to be 17 hours journey but at the end it took 20 hours.
Crossing this river means crossing the border.
Waiting for passport check at Polish checkpoint. We waited 5 hours at polish checkpoint therefore the journey lasted 3 more hours than scheduled.
It was scheduled to arrive Warsaw at 14:45, however the bus arrived at 18:15. On the bus I met a Swiss guy who just finished his volunteer work and on his way home to Zurich. His flight was 19:40, well I hope he made it. He said he was a volunteer in the east for a month. He said nobody speaks English in the East. He speaks some Russian so it is not too difficult for him to be there. I guess maybe people can speak English ran away. Also I met a guy from the US. He said he (and his group) in Kyiv to visit an energy project. Seems people are starting to rebuild this country.
My hotel in Warsaw is Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska. I booked it a week before my stay and just costed about 50 EUR with breakfast. The hotel is good, it has kids area and a pool table.
At Warsaw Citadel, there was a military exhibition of WWII British weapons and 17th centuries weapons. It took some guns and some photos, pretending to be a solider.
Warsaw Old town. This was my second visit.
Warsaw Central Railway Station. I stayed only 1 night in Warsaw. Then I on my way to Vienna by sleeper. This trip was planned in 2020 but canceled due to COVID. This trip, couchette 1 person with shower costed 163 EUR. Welcome snack and drink were provided, also a very disappointed breakfast (just bread and tea/ coffee).
My train, operated by PKP intercity
Cabin
The destinations of this train are Graz and Budapest. Half of the train will go to Budapest and the other half to Graz. There are multiples stops during to journey. Most passenger to Graz direction disembarked at Vienna.
The train arrived on time at 07:00, then I took the train to the airport to end my journey.
Schloss Belvedere. I didn't have time to visit.
App to show air raid siren in Ukraine. In the east and south, air raid siren goes off almost every day.
Bus route from Kyiv to Warsaw. The longest flix bus route to/from Kyiv is to/from Berlin, takes at least 24 hours.
It was early morning. The flight from Dublin to Lublin departed at 06:20. It arrived at the airport at 01:00 berceuse there is no public transport in midnight from where I live!! It was painful. It was 2.5 hours flight but I only managed to sleep 1 hour during the flight. The price of this Ryanair ticket is 67.13 Euro, without luggage and seat. It was a 737-800 MAX and departed on time.
Lublin Airport is a very small airport. There is only about 15 flights a day. It is too quiet even their staff spend most of their time on their phone. The Plane arrived at 10:20. Immigration process was fast and smooth because we were the only arrival flight at that time. However because of the size of the airport, there are little public transport to the city. I waited 2 hours for next bus to go to the city center.
Lublin Old town is very small, the main attritions are cathedrals and a castle. I visited the State Museum of Majdanek, however when I arrived there, sorry Monday they closed!! Because I didn't do my homework, I didn't even plan my trip and where eastly I wanted to go, thus this happened.
The State Museum of Majdanek outside
My bus departed from Lublin at 18:25. The bus arrived on time. Now the only way to Ukraine is through land. There are several operators operating buses from Poland to Ukraine. I picked Flix bus because its reputation, Wi-Fi and plug socket onboard. I couldn't find any information about train to Kyiv, therefore bus is the only option for me although I hate riding a bus.
At Poland-Ukraine border
It took us 2 hours to complete customs and border clearance. I saw there is a miles long trucks queuing to enter to Ukraine. Because there is no water and air transport to Ukraine, everything, either import or export must go by land. Thus the inflation rate in Ukraine is extremely high. The place we were called Berdyszcze, it is the northernmost checkpoint of both countries.
Stamp on my passport.
After crossing the border, we had a short break at a Ukraine store. Now I am in the warzone. It feels so unreal. Cards are widely accepted in Ukraine, but sometimes cash is better because of the exchange rate. Here I exchanged my money to Hryvnia with a traveler. I knew the market rate at that time was 39.3UAH = 1 EUR, he offered me 40UAH to 1 EUR.I thought I had a bargain, later I found out the rate at currency exchange store in Kyiv is 40.5 to 1 EUR......
It is interesting that the currency market rate is different to the actual rate. I believe most people loved to exchange money to you because they dont trust Hryvnia. In July 2022 the government announced devaluation 25% of Hryvnia. This means inflation rate goes up 25%!
Food in Kyiv are expensive, however drinks are cheap. A McDonalds meal is about 200 UAH and a 1 person mid scale restaurant is about 400 UAH. Metro sill 8 UAH per trip.
At 05:45, the bus arrived Kyiv on time. It was so early that I had no idea what I'm going to do. It just passed the curfew and people are still in their dream. Shops are closed and public transport just started running. It is too early to check in to my hotel, unless I am willing to pay extra night.
Sophia Square, here they commemorate the fallen heroes at the beginning of the war.
Mykhailivska Square, right in front of St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery. Destroyed vehicles were displaced here, both Russian and Ukraine side. No Tanks were found here.
Next to the square is a wall to commemorate the fallen heroes of 2014 Donbas War. It listed thousands of soldiers who perished during the war.
Glass Bridge. It was bombed by Russian on 10 October 2022. Now it is repaired and reopened.
Arch of Freedom of the Ukrainian People. It was built to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of the USSR. Origin name was Monument to commemorate the reunification of Ukraine with Russia, it was renamed due to Russian invasion and the sculptures beneath the arch were removed.
View from near the Arch. Dnipro river and northern Kyiv view.
Independence Monument, the most iconic landmark of Ukraine. Revolution took place here in 2014.
Open air Military equipment vehicles museum.
T-64 tank, standard Ukraine Army tank
BM-21 "Grad". Widely used by both side during the war. It can fire 40 rockets at the same time. Low accuracy but can lower enemy's moral. It turns target area into ashes.
A destroyed vehicle.
More equipments displayed outside Local Conflicts' Museum.
Ukrainian Motherland Monument. Unfortunately it was closed when I was there. Reason was unknown. You can see it has changed to Ukrainian Trident.
Be Brave like Ukraine.
Golden Gate
St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery
Kontraktova Square
Cheval de frise.
View from Poshtova Square
View from Khreshchatyy Park. Down there is Park Bridge.
This beautiful city is at war. Air raid siren can be heard every week. During my visit I heard one air raid siren. It lasted 20 mins. There was another siren during my visit but I was at the hotel and didn't hear anything. However hotel announced that air raid siren went off and everyone should go to the nearest shelter (Of course nobody gave a ....). People are used to hearing the siren and no longer go to find shelter when it is going off. Most of drones and missiles were shot down by Ukrainian Army. Kyiv is much safer that it was.
There is another way to cross the river. Do you dare to try?
Near Mariinskyi Palace, where Zelensky work and live (Or not, or beneath it). Anyone without permission is not allowed to get closer to the palace.
The famous metro station, Arsenalna. It is 105m deep and it takes 4 mins to go to the platform from entrance. It is the deepest metro station in the world.
View from Park of Eternal Glory
Monument to the Unknown Soldier
It was a short 3 days journey. And I was on my way back to Warsaw. The bus departed at 22:30, one and half hour before curfew. It was supposed to be 17 hours journey but at the end it took 20 hours.
Crossing this river means crossing the border.
Waiting for passport check at Polish checkpoint. We waited 5 hours at polish checkpoint therefore the journey lasted 3 more hours than scheduled.
It was scheduled to arrive Warsaw at 14:45, however the bus arrived at 18:15. On the bus I met a Swiss guy who just finished his volunteer work and on his way home to Zurich. His flight was 19:40, well I hope he made it. He said he was a volunteer in the east for a month. He said nobody speaks English in the East. He speaks some Russian so it is not too difficult for him to be there. I guess maybe people can speak English ran away. Also I met a guy from the US. He said he (and his group) in Kyiv to visit an energy project. Seems people are starting to rebuild this country.
My hotel in Warsaw is Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska. I booked it a week before my stay and just costed about 50 EUR with breakfast. The hotel is good, it has kids area and a pool table.
At Warsaw Citadel, there was a military exhibition of WWII British weapons and 17th centuries weapons. It took some guns and some photos, pretending to be a solider.
Warsaw Old town. This was my second visit.
Warsaw Central Railway Station. I stayed only 1 night in Warsaw. Then I on my way to Vienna by sleeper. This trip was planned in 2020 but canceled due to COVID. This trip, couchette 1 person with shower costed 163 EUR. Welcome snack and drink were provided, also a very disappointed breakfast (just bread and tea/ coffee).
My train, operated by PKP intercity
Cabin
The destinations of this train are Graz and Budapest. Half of the train will go to Budapest and the other half to Graz. There are multiples stops during to journey. Most passenger to Graz direction disembarked at Vienna.
The train arrived on time at 07:00, then I took the train to the airport to end my journey.
Schloss Belvedere. I didn't have time to visit.
App to show air raid siren in Ukraine. In the east and south, air raid siren goes off almost every day.
Bus route from Kyiv to Warsaw. The longest flix bus route to/from Kyiv is to/from Berlin, takes at least 24 hours.
Oct 1, 2023, 2:42 pm
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2014
Programs: krisflyer, Asiana Club
Posts: 63
Hints if you going to Kyiv.
Do not exchange Ukraine currency before you step into Ukraine. Contactless is widely available, but you have better exchange rate if using cash. For example market rate is 39.3 UAH to 1 EUR, but store rate is 40.5 UAH to 1 EUR. Some stores dont have enough coins or notes for change.
Curfew in Kyiv is 00:00 to 05:00 All public transport stop running at 23:00 and stores close at 22:00. Don't wandering on streets during curfew unless you are looking for shelter.
Police officers dont speak or limited English.
Google translate offline version will be very useful, most people in Kyiv cant speak a single word English.
Dont go further east if not necessary. According to a volunteer, he said nobody speaks English in the East. He was a volunteer in the east for a month.
Dont go to Bucha/ Irpin unguided. There are still lots of landmine.
McDonalds in Kyiv is about 200UAH, mid scale restaurant is about 400 to 500 UAH. Food in Kyiv is not cheap, and the price keep going up every quarter.
Though most people dont speak English, they are friendly and willing to help you.
Hotels are cheap. 50 EUR for a 3 star hotel and 30 EUR for 2 star. Most customers are Ukrainian. You should be the only foreigner in the hotel.
Most hotels offer free cancellation and dont require pre pay.
Life in Kyiv is 80% back to normal, it is even better than COVID.
Do not panic if you hearing air raid siren. People used to this music. Most drones and missiles were shot down by Ukraine air defense system.
Military serviceman can be seen anywhere. Do not take photo of them, or military vehicles/ buildings without permission.
Cancel the trip if necessary.
Please prepare more time for border control. On the return way we spent 6 hours at the border, thus we arrive 4 hours later than scheduled.
There are several bus operators to Ukraine. You can buy last min ticket just hour before departure
------------------------------------------------
My Kyiv metro journey video:
Do not exchange Ukraine currency before you step into Ukraine. Contactless is widely available, but you have better exchange rate if using cash. For example market rate is 39.3 UAH to 1 EUR, but store rate is 40.5 UAH to 1 EUR. Some stores dont have enough coins or notes for change.
Curfew in Kyiv is 00:00 to 05:00 All public transport stop running at 23:00 and stores close at 22:00. Don't wandering on streets during curfew unless you are looking for shelter.
Police officers dont speak or limited English.
Google translate offline version will be very useful, most people in Kyiv cant speak a single word English.
Dont go further east if not necessary. According to a volunteer, he said nobody speaks English in the East. He was a volunteer in the east for a month.
Dont go to Bucha/ Irpin unguided. There are still lots of landmine.
McDonalds in Kyiv is about 200UAH, mid scale restaurant is about 400 to 500 UAH. Food in Kyiv is not cheap, and the price keep going up every quarter.
Though most people dont speak English, they are friendly and willing to help you.
Hotels are cheap. 50 EUR for a 3 star hotel and 30 EUR for 2 star. Most customers are Ukrainian. You should be the only foreigner in the hotel.
Most hotels offer free cancellation and dont require pre pay.
Life in Kyiv is 80% back to normal, it is even better than COVID.
Do not panic if you hearing air raid siren. People used to this music. Most drones and missiles were shot down by Ukraine air defense system.
Military serviceman can be seen anywhere. Do not take photo of them, or military vehicles/ buildings without permission.
Cancel the trip if necessary.
Please prepare more time for border control. On the return way we spent 6 hours at the border, thus we arrive 4 hours later than scheduled.
There are several bus operators to Ukraine. You can buy last min ticket just hour before departure
------------------------------------------------
My Kyiv metro journey video:
Last edited by dragoon17c; Oct 2, 2023 at 2:58 pm
Oct 1, 2023, 3:13 pm
#3
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11,593
Thank you for posting this, it’s really interesting. LUZ is quite the airport…
Your experience in Kiev is what I’ve heard as well, apart from sirens, life pretty much remains as it was which is why your visit was safe and without worry. I follow a number of Ukrainians and the parties and social atmosphere remain as lively as ever… French oysters, champagne and Prada!
Sorry about the PKP breakfast, which surprises me as the food in WARS is normally quite decent.
Your experience in Kiev is what I’ve heard as well, apart from sirens, life pretty much remains as it was which is why your visit was safe and without worry. I follow a number of Ukrainians and the parties and social atmosphere remain as lively as ever… French oysters, champagne and Prada!
Sorry about the PKP breakfast, which surprises me as the food in WARS is normally quite decent.
Oct 1, 2023, 5:27 pm
#5
Join Date: Nov 2022
Programs: British Airways Executive Club - Silver, Nectar, Tesco
Posts: 1,007
You went to a country actively at war?
You utter madlad and total legend - I think I'll do the same think and meet a friend there. I would, however, like to clarify two things
A) Cards are accepted - is this the old style plug in or is contactless available?
B) The money swap - was that an official currency exchange or just a random encounter?
You utter madlad and total legend - I think I'll do the same think and meet a friend there. I would, however, like to clarify two things
A) Cards are accepted - is this the old style plug in or is contactless available?
B) The money swap - was that an official currency exchange or just a random encounter?
Oct 1, 2023, 5:50 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2014
Programs: krisflyer, Asiana Club
Posts: 63
You went to a country actively at war?
You utter madlad and total legend - I think I'll do the same think and meet a friend there. I would, however, like to clarify two things
A) Cards are accepted - is this the old style plug in or is contactless available?
B) The money swap - was that an official currency exchange or just a random encounter?
You utter madlad and total legend - I think I'll do the same think and meet a friend there. I would, however, like to clarify two things
A) Cards are accepted - is this the old style plug in or is contactless available?
B) The money swap - was that an official currency exchange or just a random encounter?
In fact my trip wasn't just simply personal travel. I had other thing to do.
Yes contactless is available, just like in Europe.
I think this is official exchange. I saw 2 money exchange stores offering better rate than market rate shown on google. Also the guy approached clearly knew the rate in the city so he offered 1 EUR to 40 UAH to me. He can make money from this transaction because I have no idea what is the true rate in the city. If I do, I would decline his offer.
Last edited by dragoon17c; Oct 2, 2023 at 7:53 am
Oct 2, 2023, 8:36 am
#8
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kyiv, Ukraine
Programs: Mucci, BA Gold, TK Elite, HHonors Lifetime Diamond
Posts: 7,691
Thank you for the report! I was surprised to see one about Kyiv at the time of war.
You are correct about using cash. Since the war started our Central Bank fixed the exchange rate and this is what the 'market' rate is for banks, but you will get more hryvnias for each USD, EUR or GBP if you exchange cash.
You are correct about using cash. Since the war started our Central Bank fixed the exchange rate and this is what the 'market' rate is for banks, but you will get more hryvnias for each USD, EUR or GBP if you exchange cash.
Oct 2, 2023, 10:53 am
#10
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Athens, Roscoff, Helsinki, Kerry or Tromso
Posts: 459
Brilliant report, thank you.
Kyiv was on my list for autumn 2020 and of course never happened and I didn't think it now could but reading your report, I'm going to start looking at it again and who knows, I might just get there next year.
Kyiv was on my list for autumn 2020 and of course never happened and I didn't think it now could but reading your report, I'm going to start looking at it again and who knows, I might just get there next year.