Denmark, Faroe, Iceland, and Greenland via LX J, SK Y, RC Y, FI Y
Aug 15, 2023, 4:57 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Denmark, Faroe, Iceland, and Greenland via LX J, SK Y, RC Y, FI Y
Our family of four took two weeks trying to find cold weather during a hot summer at home. The trip took us to Denmark, the Faroe Islands, and Greenland,; some spots not often mentioned in reports here. We had quick stops in Switzerland and some real troubles in Iceland. We did all this with two teenagers who had varing degrees of constant moodiness. Add to that some food poisoning and a sinus infection....with epic scenery. Follow along.
Aug 15, 2023, 5:06 am
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
JFK-ZRH via LX C
I was able to grab 4 seats in business on a Swiss flight to Zurich, connecting onwards to CPH via SAS. The ultimate goal was Copenhagen as most of the flights on to the Faroe Islands originate in Denmark. The Swiss flight happen to be open on points. As a plus (or minus) we had a 9 hour connection in Zurich which gave us enough to to explore Luzern. My idea was to break up the trip to give the teenagers a break and let them see something other than airports.
Standard Swiss flight. I had the beef. All ok...until about 2 hours from landing when I decidedly had food poisoning. The next 24 hours were unpleasant for me. Was it the food from Swiss? Or something from the airport?
Regardless everything went on time and we had a pleasant few hours in Luzern.
Aug 15, 2023, 5:42 am
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
ZRH-CPH via SAS J and 3 nights in Copenhagen
Swiss rail lived up to its reputation and we arrived back at ZRH just in time for our late flight on to CPH. Traveling with a family means bags, but even then we managed everything with four larger backpacks. These we checked at JFK giving us flexibility in Zurich.
Though still nauseous, I was improving. A very full flight to Copenhagen with nothing special to report.
A quick and super convenient metro ride from CPH airport to Norreport station. From there, at about midnight, we had a pleasant walk past Copenhagens legions of drunk young people to the Hotel Kong Arthur.
This was a pleasant enough 4 star hotel with great staff in a quiet area. And a bonus, a free drink happy hour. In a city with ridiculous alcohol prices this was a treat. I'm a runner was able to log many miles in early morning runs around the large lakes just outside the hotel. All in all a win win.
We had a nice three days in Copenhagen. The teens hated the museum. Tivoli was the star here. Europe's oldest amusement park delivered. Word is Walt Disney got inspiration from Tivoli. I believe it because the park was insanely crowded and wildly overpriced. Here is Hans Christian Anderson looking at this monster as if to say "Let's make a kid paradise that destroys parents wallets!"
And some obligatory pictures of people upside down.
Tivoli is seriously small, but I can see how Disney was inspired by the pleasant landscaping and really smart use of the space available.
Though still nauseous, I was improving. A very full flight to Copenhagen with nothing special to report.
A quick and super convenient metro ride from CPH airport to Norreport station. From there, at about midnight, we had a pleasant walk past Copenhagens legions of drunk young people to the Hotel Kong Arthur.
This was a pleasant enough 4 star hotel with great staff in a quiet area. And a bonus, a free drink happy hour. In a city with ridiculous alcohol prices this was a treat. I'm a runner was able to log many miles in early morning runs around the large lakes just outside the hotel. All in all a win win.
We had a nice three days in Copenhagen. The teens hated the museum. Tivoli was the star here. Europe's oldest amusement park delivered. Word is Walt Disney got inspiration from Tivoli. I believe it because the park was insanely crowded and wildly overpriced. Here is Hans Christian Anderson looking at this monster as if to say "Let's make a kid paradise that destroys parents wallets!"
And some obligatory pictures of people upside down.
Tivoli is seriously small, but I can see how Disney was inspired by the pleasant landscaping and really smart use of the space available.
Aug 15, 2023, 2:37 pm
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Finishing up Copenhagen
One of the joys of traveling with teenagers, besides that they are moody, is that they are picky eaters. In Copenhagen I told them we can eat Danish sandwiches, or smorrebrod. I am sure they were imagining a Subway sandwich and not this:
No matter what the Danes think this is not a sandwich. It is a cracker of bread topped with various salads, some of which taste good.
Fortunately Copenhagen has a fascination with hot dogs, and polser wagons are all over the city serving mediocre hot dogs at ballpark (or football stadium) prices that taste good to teenage boys.
There is a hot dog stand buried in these bikes.
No matter what the Danes think this is not a sandwich. It is a cracker of bread topped with various salads, some of which taste good.
Fortunately Copenhagen has a fascination with hot dogs, and polser wagons are all over the city serving mediocre hot dogs at ballpark (or football stadium) prices that taste good to teenage boys.
There is a hot dog stand buried in these bikes.
Aug 15, 2023, 3:13 pm
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Cph-fae sas y
A quick metro ride to CPH and a seamless check in for our SAS flight to the Faroe Islands. SAS and Atlantic Airways (RC) both serve this route and prices are comparable. I was able to grab two award seats on SAS so the decision was made.
Nothing special to report on the completely full, 1.5 hour flight. We were served by FAs that had all the sunny disposition to be expected of long-tenured, union employee working on a Sunday. It was a typically cloudy day on approach, but there were decent views.
The circles in the water are fish farms. Tiny Faroe Islands is the world's fifth largest producer of salmon and fishing is the largest industry. Even the smallest villages had farms and often a processing plant.
The international airport on Vagar is small and has two gates and a duty free shop twice as big. This is the entirety of the terminal:
Rental cars appear to be dear in the Faroes so we smartly booked well ahead. Close to the airport is beautiful Mulafossur falls and the little village of Gasadalur.
The Faroes have a striking imbalance of men to women; so much so that the government has offered a "bounty" for able bodied women to move to the islands. I broached the idea to my wife that she should stay on in Gasadalur. She suggested I do as well because the village needed an idiot.
Close to Vagar is the iconic Sorvagsvatn, a lake if photographed correctly appears to be suspended above the ocean. It is an easy two mile hike to see it:
The chatter boards are full of travelers incensed that the land owner on whose property this trail traverses has begun charging a hefty 200 DKK hiking fee. It's pricey, and not the most dramatic scenery in the Faroes. But it is his land, so don't hike it if you don't want to pay. We found hiking fees all over the Faroes, popping up faster than the travel guide sites can report them. Faroe Islands tourism is on the cusp of becoming explosive, perhaps even beyond the island's carrying capacity I believe.
Nothing special to report on the completely full, 1.5 hour flight. We were served by FAs that had all the sunny disposition to be expected of long-tenured, union employee working on a Sunday. It was a typically cloudy day on approach, but there were decent views.
The circles in the water are fish farms. Tiny Faroe Islands is the world's fifth largest producer of salmon and fishing is the largest industry. Even the smallest villages had farms and often a processing plant.
The international airport on Vagar is small and has two gates and a duty free shop twice as big. This is the entirety of the terminal:
Rental cars appear to be dear in the Faroes so we smartly booked well ahead. Close to the airport is beautiful Mulafossur falls and the little village of Gasadalur.
The Faroes have a striking imbalance of men to women; so much so that the government has offered a "bounty" for able bodied women to move to the islands. I broached the idea to my wife that she should stay on in Gasadalur. She suggested I do as well because the village needed an idiot.
Close to Vagar is the iconic Sorvagsvatn, a lake if photographed correctly appears to be suspended above the ocean. It is an easy two mile hike to see it:
The chatter boards are full of travelers incensed that the land owner on whose property this trail traverses has begun charging a hefty 200 DKK hiking fee. It's pricey, and not the most dramatic scenery in the Faroes. But it is his land, so don't hike it if you don't want to pay. We found hiking fees all over the Faroes, popping up faster than the travel guide sites can report them. Faroe Islands tourism is on the cusp of becoming explosive, perhaps even beyond the island's carrying capacity I believe.
Aug 15, 2023, 4:31 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
The Faroes
We stayed at the new Hilton Garden Inn in the capital, Torshavn. It is international standard and centrally located. Of course everything is centrally located in the Faroe Islands; one can drive from end to end in a matter of hours. This is largely thanks to the absolutely amazing civil infrastructure in the Faroes. A vast network of roads, tunnels, and bridges have linked together even the most remote villages. Tunnels like this which connects Gasadalur (population 50) to the rest of the country.
The Eysturoyartunnilin connects Streymoy to Eysturoy and is 10 km long with an undersea roundabout! It cost 1 BILLION DKK to complete. I am sure that is nice, but our entire time in Faroe we wondered about the cost-benefits of all this civil work. How is this country affording tunnels to towns of 50 people?
During our time there we visited many beautiful villages like Saksun with iconic turf roofed houses:
And Gjov bookended by towering cliffs full of puffins:
We went on many hikes along muddy tracks. Smart shoes and water resistant pants are a must here. We hiked to the iconic Kallur lighthouse on remote Kalsoy. The lighthouse has been here one hundred years, the epic cliffs for eons. Yet every visitor we met asked if we saw James Bond's tombstone. The location was used in a 007 movie some 10 years ago--the prop was left . Here it is:
This was a nice three days in the Faroes. But by the end the teenagers were complaining. Aside from being moody and picky eaters, teenagers complain. A lot.
The Eysturoyartunnilin connects Streymoy to Eysturoy and is 10 km long with an undersea roundabout! It cost 1 BILLION DKK to complete. I am sure that is nice, but our entire time in Faroe we wondered about the cost-benefits of all this civil work. How is this country affording tunnels to towns of 50 people?
During our time there we visited many beautiful villages like Saksun with iconic turf roofed houses:
And Gjov bookended by towering cliffs full of puffins:
We went on many hikes along muddy tracks. Smart shoes and water resistant pants are a must here. We hiked to the iconic Kallur lighthouse on remote Kalsoy. The lighthouse has been here one hundred years, the epic cliffs for eons. Yet every visitor we met asked if we saw James Bond's tombstone. The location was used in a 007 movie some 10 years ago--the prop was left . Here it is:
This was a nice three days in the Faroes. But by the end the teenagers were complaining. Aside from being moody and picky eaters, teenagers complain. A lot.
Aug 16, 2023, 1:01 pm
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
FAE-KEF and how things go really bad
Three days was a perfect amount of time for us in the Faroes, and I'd offer that's an ideal time for most visitors. So we continued west. The route from FAE-KEF is only served by Atlantic (RC) on a 3x weekly schedule, though I read where Icelandair may start a seasonal route soon.
The flight was perfectly fine on an A320 with nothing more that coffee or tea offered. The flight arrived early and we were in Iceland by 0930.
Our travel plan has us moving on to Greenland that evening on a 2100 flight. This gave as about 10 hours in Iceland. On our return from Greenland we planned 3 solid days in Iceland. The most logical flight plan would have us in Iceland first, heading on to Greenland, as the returns on Icelandair are timed well for morning flights to Europe or the US. Alternatively we could have returned to CPH and flown Air Greenland to Kangerlussuaq (SFJ) on their single A330. This is cheaper than the flight options ex-Iceland. In retrospect this would have been the best option since SFJ is an international airport with usually good weather.
But flights to Greenland are limited and expensive. This was the only option we had with four people. So we rented a car for the long layover and drove the Golden Circle along with thousands of other tourists. Really, Iceland was beyond capacity with 95% of hotels booked. It was Yellowstone in July, Disney in the summer, you get the idea.
We returned to KEF and boarded the Dash-8 to Ililusiat (JAV). FI uses the Dash-8 planes for their Iceland routes and does not fly to SFJ. Only Nuuk, Ilulissat, Narsarsuaq in the west and occasional flight to Kulusuk in the east. None of these have runways to accommodate larger jets.
What this also means is that the flights are very weather dependent. And Greenland has unpredictable weather. Flights get cancelled. That's what happened to us. Except that we boarded our Dash-8, flew 3 hours to Ilulissat, put wheels down, aborted the landing due to heavy fog and diverted to SFJ for refuelling at about midnight. The pillot announced that we would immediately return to Keflavik.
What ensued was chaos. Immediately after landing half the plane was on their phones booking flights for the next morning. Kangerlussuaq is Air Greenland's hub and had 4 flights onward to Ilulissat the next morning. A Spanish tour group of 8 people was the first to strike asking the pilot to deplane and let them off. One by one people asked to deplane. The problem was there were no hotel rooms to be had in Kangerlussuaq. The pilot allowed us onto the runway and airport manager came out. He found 11 beds for people including offering to put 2 people in his own house. The other half the plane, including us, were out of luck. So back into the plane and another 3 hour flight back to Keflavik.
We arrived into KEF at 0530 and I ran to the service desk, which opened at 0600. They were able to rebook us on the 0820 flight in a few hours. So no real harm done, we would arrive at 0930 just 9 hours later than planned.
The flight over seemed promising. Clear skies with some nice views over Greenland.
Except that the exact same thing happen to this flight, FI123. We departed. We flew 3 hours, aborted two landing attempts, and diverted to SFJ for fuel and returned to KEF. This time I was able to take a pitiful picture of SFJ.
We arrived back into KEF. If you're keeping score we have spent 24 hours trying to land in Ilulissat. The Icelandair rep was not helpful. "No sir we will not rebook. You have to call the service center." "We will only provide you a hotel, but first we will bus you to another hotel for dinner while we find a hotel because there are no hotels available."
Yeah, right--I'm not waiting on a bus for a hotel room that doesn't exist. I went online, found a hotel in Rekyavik for the four of us (a superbly expensive price) and we regrouped. I have sent the bill to Icelandair.
The next morning I found the city office for Icelandair and camped there for an hour or so. FI was only able to book us on a flight the following morning at 0820, and we changed the return to Monday. What this meant was I had to cancel plans for the three days we had in Iceland upon our return. But the third time will be the charm, right!?
The flight was perfectly fine on an A320 with nothing more that coffee or tea offered. The flight arrived early and we were in Iceland by 0930.
Our travel plan has us moving on to Greenland that evening on a 2100 flight. This gave as about 10 hours in Iceland. On our return from Greenland we planned 3 solid days in Iceland. The most logical flight plan would have us in Iceland first, heading on to Greenland, as the returns on Icelandair are timed well for morning flights to Europe or the US. Alternatively we could have returned to CPH and flown Air Greenland to Kangerlussuaq (SFJ) on their single A330. This is cheaper than the flight options ex-Iceland. In retrospect this would have been the best option since SFJ is an international airport with usually good weather.
But flights to Greenland are limited and expensive. This was the only option we had with four people. So we rented a car for the long layover and drove the Golden Circle along with thousands of other tourists. Really, Iceland was beyond capacity with 95% of hotels booked. It was Yellowstone in July, Disney in the summer, you get the idea.
We returned to KEF and boarded the Dash-8 to Ililusiat (JAV). FI uses the Dash-8 planes for their Iceland routes and does not fly to SFJ. Only Nuuk, Ilulissat, Narsarsuaq in the west and occasional flight to Kulusuk in the east. None of these have runways to accommodate larger jets.
What this also means is that the flights are very weather dependent. And Greenland has unpredictable weather. Flights get cancelled. That's what happened to us. Except that we boarded our Dash-8, flew 3 hours to Ilulissat, put wheels down, aborted the landing due to heavy fog and diverted to SFJ for refuelling at about midnight. The pillot announced that we would immediately return to Keflavik.
What ensued was chaos. Immediately after landing half the plane was on their phones booking flights for the next morning. Kangerlussuaq is Air Greenland's hub and had 4 flights onward to Ilulissat the next morning. A Spanish tour group of 8 people was the first to strike asking the pilot to deplane and let them off. One by one people asked to deplane. The problem was there were no hotel rooms to be had in Kangerlussuaq. The pilot allowed us onto the runway and airport manager came out. He found 11 beds for people including offering to put 2 people in his own house. The other half the plane, including us, were out of luck. So back into the plane and another 3 hour flight back to Keflavik.
We arrived into KEF at 0530 and I ran to the service desk, which opened at 0600. They were able to rebook us on the 0820 flight in a few hours. So no real harm done, we would arrive at 0930 just 9 hours later than planned.
The flight over seemed promising. Clear skies with some nice views over Greenland.
Except that the exact same thing happen to this flight, FI123. We departed. We flew 3 hours, aborted two landing attempts, and diverted to SFJ for fuel and returned to KEF. This time I was able to take a pitiful picture of SFJ.
We arrived back into KEF. If you're keeping score we have spent 24 hours trying to land in Ilulissat. The Icelandair rep was not helpful. "No sir we will not rebook. You have to call the service center." "We will only provide you a hotel, but first we will bus you to another hotel for dinner while we find a hotel because there are no hotels available."
Yeah, right--I'm not waiting on a bus for a hotel room that doesn't exist. I went online, found a hotel in Rekyavik for the four of us (a superbly expensive price) and we regrouped. I have sent the bill to Icelandair.
The next morning I found the city office for Icelandair and camped there for an hour or so. FI was only able to book us on a flight the following morning at 0820, and we changed the return to Monday. What this meant was I had to cancel plans for the three days we had in Iceland upon our return. But the third time will be the charm, right!?
Last edited by CHSDOC; Aug 16, 2023 at 1:16 pm
Aug 16, 2023, 1:49 pm
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
KEF-JAV on FI Y
We boarded our third flight to Ilulissat now 48 hours after we were supposed to arrive. We had fortunately built in three days after our return from Greenland to tour more of Iceland. Unfortunately I had some non-refundable hotel reservations that would hurt my wallet. But we had enough of Iceland, or at least the crowds.
The flight over to Ilulissat was better. Crystal clear skies and amazing Greenland views.
Glaciers emptying into ocean
Surface melt on the inland ice sheet.
Icebergs flowing into Disko Bay
We arrived into Ilulissat, finally!
Our Icelandair flight parked next to an Air Greenland Dash-8.
Tiny Ilulissat airport
Ilulissat is in the the process of getting a new terminal and runway that will handle international jet traffic and make weather delays less of a problem. It is supposed to open in 2024 but given the progress I saw I doubt that timetable. Contractors are literally moving a mountain of rock to make a level field. But the rocks aren't good enough for what is needed for the runway so better rocks are being imported from Norway.
The flight over to Ilulissat was better. Crystal clear skies and amazing Greenland views.
Glaciers emptying into ocean
Surface melt on the inland ice sheet.
Icebergs flowing into Disko Bay
We arrived into Ilulissat, finally!
Our Icelandair flight parked next to an Air Greenland Dash-8.
Tiny Ilulissat airport
Ilulissat is in the the process of getting a new terminal and runway that will handle international jet traffic and make weather delays less of a problem. It is supposed to open in 2024 but given the progress I saw I doubt that timetable. Contractors are literally moving a mountain of rock to make a level field. But the rocks aren't good enough for what is needed for the runway so better rocks are being imported from Norway.
Last edited by CHSDOC; Aug 17, 2023 at 4:07 am
Aug 16, 2023, 8:27 pm
#9
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: ORD
Programs: AA EXP >3 Million miles,HH Lifetime Diamond
Posts: 2,890
Thanks for this trip report. Reminder of a few facts of travel even in 2023. Mother nature is still in charge, not all places of natural beauty have the the tourist infrastructure to support or manage the visitor numbers, and how important a sense of humor and adaptability is while traveling. I have friends that went to Greenland and the first thing they told me was..flights are unpredictable..don't plan on a tight schedule. I know you said summer but what specific time were you to be in Iceland. I'm an off season traveler..don't have timing constraints so I'd probably look at shoulder season. Loved the report but felt your pain
Aug 17, 2023, 5:05 am
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Ililusaat
With a population of 5000 Ililusaat is Greenland's third largest city. For centuries the town was known as Jacobshavn. The weather station at the airport is still known as Jacobshavn station, and weathermen use the name Jacobshavn. But like I said before the weather in Greenland is unpredictable. Weathermen there are involved in predicting the unpredictable. They wear long robes, pointy hats imprinted with stars and moons, and carry a wand. If you go around saying "Jacobshavn" in Ilulissat people will think you are crazy.
The town itself is in a beautiful location on Disko Bay. And Disko Bay is famous for the icebergs that break off from the massive Jacobshan glacier that flow into the bay from the inland ice sheet. It is no small amount of ice, the ice river is 7 km wide and 50 km long. All of that ice makes 25% of the world's icebergs. There is only one other place on earth like it, and it is fairly inaccessible in Antarctica. For that reason Ilulissat and Disko Bay are a UNESCO World Heritage site and the capital of Greenland's tourism industry.
Ilulissat from atop the Best Western
Though tourism is big there, fishing remains the top industry in town. Ilulissat has a wonderfully protected natural harbor and two large fish processing plants. Every family in town owns a boat or two.
Ilulissat harbor
Independent travel is very easy in Ilulissat. The town has two international class hotels and several smaller inns. There are a scattering of small restaurants and a host of trip outfitters and tour operators. The two big hotels are the older Hotel Arctic and the new Best Western. We went with the Hotel Arctic. When staying above the Arctic Circle, a place with a name like Hotel Arctic has a certain sound of adventure to it. Best Western sounds to me more like "John and Maude load the kids in the Oldsmobile we're going to Branson!"
The Best Western is truly better located in town and much more modern. It has a rooftop restaurant with amazing views. While we were there the Hotel Arctic seemed to cater to large tour groups of decidedly older travelers. The hotel is owned by the Air Greenland group, which sponsors several package tour plans to the area, so that makes sense. Meanwhile, the independent travelers we met seemed to be staying at the Best Western (aka "Hotel Ilulissat") and It would be my choice if I did it again.
The town itself is in a beautiful location on Disko Bay. And Disko Bay is famous for the icebergs that break off from the massive Jacobshan glacier that flow into the bay from the inland ice sheet. It is no small amount of ice, the ice river is 7 km wide and 50 km long. All of that ice makes 25% of the world's icebergs. There is only one other place on earth like it, and it is fairly inaccessible in Antarctica. For that reason Ilulissat and Disko Bay are a UNESCO World Heritage site and the capital of Greenland's tourism industry.
Ilulissat from atop the Best Western
Though tourism is big there, fishing remains the top industry in town. Ilulissat has a wonderfully protected natural harbor and two large fish processing plants. Every family in town owns a boat or two.
Ilulissat harbor
Independent travel is very easy in Ilulissat. The town has two international class hotels and several smaller inns. There are a scattering of small restaurants and a host of trip outfitters and tour operators. The two big hotels are the older Hotel Arctic and the new Best Western. We went with the Hotel Arctic. When staying above the Arctic Circle, a place with a name like Hotel Arctic has a certain sound of adventure to it. Best Western sounds to me more like "John and Maude load the kids in the Oldsmobile we're going to Branson!"
The Best Western is truly better located in town and much more modern. It has a rooftop restaurant with amazing views. While we were there the Hotel Arctic seemed to cater to large tour groups of decidedly older travelers. The hotel is owned by the Air Greenland group, which sponsors several package tour plans to the area, so that makes sense. Meanwhile, the independent travelers we met seemed to be staying at the Best Western (aka "Hotel Ilulissat") and It would be my choice if I did it again.
Last edited by CHSDOC; Aug 17, 2023 at 8:58 am
Aug 17, 2023, 5:46 am
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Ilulissat
The main attraction in town is the ice fjord, or the large flow of icebergs that fill the fjord just south of town. The beautiful Icefjord Center is a worthwhile museum and the start of several must-do trails to the icefjord. Since I was traveling with moody, hungry, complaining teenagers we gave only a quick look at the museum and spent a half day hiking the trails.
Icefjord Center
There are four color coded trails around Ilulissat. The easy boardwalk leads straight down to the fjord and merges with the well marked blue and yellow trails. Follow the blue trail along the fjord for amazing views. It merges with the red trail which leads back to the Icefjord Center. An easy 2 hour hike that even managed to get smiles from my teenagers.
And easy boardwalk leads from the Icefjord Center to the actual iceflow.
The end of the Icefjord where large icebergs flow into Disko Bay and start their journey to the Atlantic.
The ice fjord along the blue trail
Ice fjord
The Icefjord with brilliant green mosses
The last trail, the orange trail, runs 20km from Oqaatsut to Ilulissat and requires a one way boat trip either to drop off or pick up. It was our plan for one of the days. Since our trip was cut by two days due to flight cancellations we had to drop this.
One morning I woke early and ran from the airport to the Icefjord Center. It's a mere 3.5 miles. The morning was brilliant and clear. As I sat there, in the span of 10 minutes a fog rolled in across the bay in a Hollywood sandstorm style effect blanketing the town in a milky white. What weather phenomenon can cause this??? I hear if you call out "Jacobshavn!" three times while walking backwards a meteorologist will appear, complete with crystal orbs and amulets, to give you insight.
Icefjord Center
There are four color coded trails around Ilulissat. The easy boardwalk leads straight down to the fjord and merges with the well marked blue and yellow trails. Follow the blue trail along the fjord for amazing views. It merges with the red trail which leads back to the Icefjord Center. An easy 2 hour hike that even managed to get smiles from my teenagers.
And easy boardwalk leads from the Icefjord Center to the actual iceflow.
The end of the Icefjord where large icebergs flow into Disko Bay and start their journey to the Atlantic.
The ice fjord along the blue trail
Ice fjord
The Icefjord with brilliant green mosses
The last trail, the orange trail, runs 20km from Oqaatsut to Ilulissat and requires a one way boat trip either to drop off or pick up. It was our plan for one of the days. Since our trip was cut by two days due to flight cancellations we had to drop this.
One morning I woke early and ran from the airport to the Icefjord Center. It's a mere 3.5 miles. The morning was brilliant and clear. As I sat there, in the span of 10 minutes a fog rolled in across the bay in a Hollywood sandstorm style effect blanketing the town in a milky white. What weather phenomenon can cause this??? I hear if you call out "Jacobshavn!" three times while walking backwards a meteorologist will appear, complete with crystal orbs and amulets, to give you insight.
Last edited by CHSDOC; Aug 17, 2023 at 6:02 am
Aug 17, 2023, 8:12 am
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Around Ilulissat
We had 2.5 days in Ilulissat, down from four thanks to the travel disruptions. But with essentially no dark hours in this late summer time we crammed a lot in. Tour operators all offer similar outings like Whale Watching, Iceberg Cruises, kayaking, etc. We went fishing the first morning. This is a very wise trip to take for several reasons. First, you are almost guaranteed to have a solo excursion as no sane person elects to go fishing in 2 C water (38 F) with an air temperature of 43 F. Second, we caught a lot of fish. All cod, though I did hook a nice halibut I didn't manage to land. Finally, out on the water you almost assured of seeing whales. We saw two humpbacks. People pay separately for a whale cruise. But why not try multitasking?
The days catch
We also went kayaking through the icebergs. This was a nice experience and we really got close to the icebergs. The downside is you are in a kayak in 2 C water, mostly terrified about flipping over. The day before our trip a whale breached under one kayaker sending her on an unexpected waterslide down his backside. Taking photos was impossible. The pictures below are from a boat cruise we took separately.
For those not into such adventures, near Ilulissat is Ilimanaq where you can find a branch of Faroe based, Michelin star restaurant Koks, which is billing itself as the most remote Michelin restaurant in the world. I am not judging the gourmands who enjoy this stuff. For about $600 one can spend an entire day in tiny Ilimanaq eating whale blubber and musk ox while dressed in jackets at Koks. Afterward they advertise an included walking tour of the village where locals will stare at you as if you just yelled out "Jacobshavn".
The days catch
We also went kayaking through the icebergs. This was a nice experience and we really got close to the icebergs. The downside is you are in a kayak in 2 C water, mostly terrified about flipping over. The day before our trip a whale breached under one kayaker sending her on an unexpected waterslide down his backside. Taking photos was impossible. The pictures below are from a boat cruise we took separately.
For those not into such adventures, near Ilulissat is Ilimanaq where you can find a branch of Faroe based, Michelin star restaurant Koks, which is billing itself as the most remote Michelin restaurant in the world. I am not judging the gourmands who enjoy this stuff. For about $600 one can spend an entire day in tiny Ilimanaq eating whale blubber and musk ox while dressed in jackets at Koks. Afterward they advertise an included walking tour of the village where locals will stare at you as if you just yelled out "Jacobshavn".
Last edited by CHSDOC; Aug 17, 2023 at 9:16 am
Aug 17, 2023, 11:09 am
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 357
Oqaatsut
After a day of seeing Ilulissat and icebergs we ventured further north past the tiny village of Oqaatsut for a hike to a waterfall and a swim in the lake. We saw spectacular scenery, passed many icebergs, and saw two more whales.
Tiny village of Oqaatsut
Oqaatsut is the starting or ending point of the orange trail to Ilulissat, 20km away. There is a small restaurant in town open during the summer called H8. The name comes from WWII when the United States took control of Greenland from occupied Denmark. Small settlements were given letter number codes for life saving, air-dropped supplies.
H8 restaurant
In both Ilulissat and Oqaatsut there were dozens of not hundreds of sled dogs chained and housed in any open space around town. The dogs were never a problem during my early morning runs but their howls once started would echo around town. Puppies were not chained and kind of roamed around everywhere.
Tiny village of Oqaatsut
Oqaatsut is the starting or ending point of the orange trail to Ilulissat, 20km away. There is a small restaurant in town open during the summer called H8. The name comes from WWII when the United States took control of Greenland from occupied Denmark. Small settlements were given letter number codes for life saving, air-dropped supplies.
H8 restaurant
In both Ilulissat and Oqaatsut there were dozens of not hundreds of sled dogs chained and housed in any open space around town. The dogs were never a problem during my early morning runs but their howls once started would echo around town. Puppies were not chained and kind of roamed around everywhere.
Aug 17, 2023, 8:33 pm
#15
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Programs: American Airlines
Posts: 30,044
Great report and definitely not one I'm used to reading here. Nice to see Dash 7's in service.
Those pics are amazing and I can only imagine they don't do justice to seeing them in person.
Did you filet those cod? Cod and chips??
Those pics are amazing and I can only imagine they don't do justice to seeing them in person.
Did you filet those cod? Cod and chips??
