Hut

Part 1: Planning

In a time that seems forever ago, just this time last year, I was fortunate enough to spend a couple of weeks in Bergen as part of a summer school programme run by the Norwegian School of Economics. It was a great trip that sort of appeared out of nowhere. As someone who plans things out, holidays are normally a long time in the making – there is annual leave to earn, research to be done, flights and hotels to book etc. This trip came together more like a work trip where you find yourself on the other side of the world with a weeks’ notice.

For my sins I’ve returned to uni for a further piece of parchment – it’s a flexible degree which is to say you get worship at the altar of knowledge while also working full time. So, when I saw an email in my uni inbox that suggested there was a course on offer in Norway it was hard to say no. It would be interesting, there was room in my degree and most importantly it would be in Norway. It also helped that in the parlance of the Australian Taxation Office; there is a sufficient nexus between my revenue earning activity and my further education… which is a long winded way of saying this would be a tax deductible trip.

After getting the okay from Mrs Hut and the Corporation I was soon filling in various applications and taking a quick look at flights. It was recommended that we arrive on the Friday before classes start, so we could have the weekend to acclimatise. There would be a field trip in the middle weekend and it was recommended that we leave on the Saturday after classes finish. All up it would be two weeks in Bergen which would be the longest I’ve spent in any one place on a holiday.

Once I got the formal acceptance, I had to book my travel with the university mandated travel agent, apparently for insurance reasons. It wasn’t as bad as I expected and the agent found a great fare with Finnair. The way over had good connections in Hong Kong and Helsinki, however it looked like I’d have to come back via Tokyo, with a 12 hour layover. The travel agent thought this could be a deal breaker, however I assured him it was not a problem.

I would have liked to do a bit of research about Bergen and the surrounding area; however life was crazy and next thing you know I was in the air.


Maps generated by the Great Circle Mapper - copyright © Karl L. Swartz

Hut

After a hectic day at work I took our big fur baby for one last walk, had a somewhat odd dinner that aimed to use most of the perishables left in the fridge and sorted a ride to the airport.



Late in the evening in Perth there were no real queues, however it still took 15 minutes as it seemed the people at the counters had complex check in needs. When I made it to an agent I was quickly on my way to the lounge.

Qantas Business Lounge



The Qantas lounge at Perth airport is somewhat frozen in time. Qantas has been upgrading their lounges across the network; however, they are also having a battle of egos with the airport corporation. It seems to be over which terminals Qantas should use, so understandably they are not spending any money here.



Still, it’s a nice place to wait for your ride… just not quite as nice as some of the other Qantas lounges out there.

Cathay Pacific CX170
Airbus A350-900 (B-LRN)
Perth (PER) -> Hong Kong (HKG)
Depart 23:42, Arrive 07:11, Flight Time: 7:29



Cathay always seem to have boarding sorted in Perth, lines are well managed and they normally board on time. Today we’d be on an A350, which I very much like. The seats are a slight evolution on the previous ones, which is understandable. Its hard to improve on greatness.



Probably the most noticeable change is a vastly improved monitor and IFE system.



Waiting at each seat was a new look menu and breakfast card.



Dinner looked appetising however as I’d already had dinner and snacked in the lounge, I figured sleep might be the better option.



Having the breakfast menu repeated on the order card did seem a bit redundant… but I do like that they took a different approach.



Tucked away in the little cabinet is everything else you need, there is lots of storage and my only complaint is these seats seem to show the wear a little more than you’d expect.



After drinks were offered most of us completed our breakfast orders and we were soon ready to go.



Another reason to love the A350… the camera is awesome! Once we were in the air, I put the seat back and promptly fell sleep.



I think I was woken up by the lights coming on around 90 mins out, the crew offered a drink and I enjoyed a coffee…



… which was rapidly followed by breakfast.



The crew rushed about sorting out the cabin as we had quite a bumpy descent into a decidedly overcast Hong Kong.



After passing through transit security which was empty but for the security staff, I found myself on the departures level an impressive 5 minutes after getting off the plane. I wandered out to the end of the terminal to watch the planes for a bit.



I always love airports where you get a variety of traffic passing through…



There is also something comforting about seeing your ride touch down.



When the rain arrived figured that was a sign it was time to head for the lounge.

The Pier Business Class Lounge



After clearly not travelling enough with OneWorld airlines I’ve dropped down to Qantas Gold – at least for a few more weeks. Hence one of my favourite lounges, The Pier First Class Lounge was off limits.



Having never visited the Business Lounge before I was surprised just how big it was!



There are multiple different zones and it was super busy. The wait for a shower was over 30 mins.



The buffet here is a bit different where you ask for what you want from the server and it didn’t work very well… It was super slow and after lots of waiting the traveller before me finally got served only to chuck a tantrum when his pretty simple request got mangled. I took that as a sign maybe after breakfast on the plane and lunch to come – second breakfast might just be a coffee.



I headed to the gate around boarding time and found things well organised with clear lines and boarding started right on time.

Finnair AY102
Airbus A350-900 (OH-LWF)
Hong Kong (HKG) -> Helsinki (HEL)
Depart 11:39, Arrive 17:33, Flight Time: 10:54



This was my first time flying Finnair and I have to say I really like how the cabin looks and feels.



The seats are similar to Cathay, probably not quite as good on some of the finer details – but still great.



Everything was very deliberately placed at each of the seats with the menus and amenities on the shelf…



… and the blankets and slippers hidden away.



As boarding was underway drinks were offered by the crew who stopped by to introduce themselves. I went with some bubbles which came in some very distinctive glassware, which the crew proudly told me haven’t changed in 50 years and are available for sale!



As we waited, I took a look at the menu and the crew stopped by to top up the glass as we might be here for a little while.



Soon enough boarding was complete, however as the Captain explained our push back time wasn’t for another hour…



The crew solved this by offering a bite to eat along with a drink. In my case a glass of gin with a just a splash of tonic. Unfortunately, it seems the entertainment system doesn’t start until we are in the air, so I made do with my own.



After waiting to push back, there was then the queue for take off which meant we had spent two hours onboard and were still on the ground! I had an overnight in Helsinki, however there were several passengers around me who were worried about their connections.



We had a fantastic crew member looking after the area I was, she was super friendly, lots of fun and we were soon starting lunch. The appetiser was pretty good, and I quite liked the paired wine.



Although it doesn’t look it, the big plate was amazing. The meat just fell apart, the vegies and the wine… it all came together like that home cooked meal on a winter evening.



Up last was some cheese and desert which was good. It hard to go wrong with cheese and sugar. Overall, the meal was great, but it did feel a little rushed. As a someone who is accused of eating at the pace of a Labrador, it’s unusual for the next plate to arrive while I’m still working on the previous one.



A trolley loaded with sugar rolled down the aisle around the halfway point, I can assure you it was well received. This was also around the time most people were being advised of their new connections, which were less well received… most seemed to be several hours later and in economy. There were many comments along the lines of – next time I’ll just fly direct. Also causing consternation was the state of the toilets… they were pretty feral and I went back to swap the slippers for real shoes.



Around an hour out the second meal arrived which was unremarkable.



Soon, we found ourselves over Helsinki looking for the airport…



… which is easier when you can see out the front. I hope that cameras like this become mandatory on all aircraft in the future!

Hilton Helsinki Airport



With an earlyish flight the next morning I figured it wasn’t worth the hassle of a trip into town, so grabbed a very reasonably priced room at the airport hotel. Quick check in, comfortable bed and good sound proofing – all you need in an airport hotel!

hkskyline

I've always enjoyed the morning departures out of HKG to Europe. I didn't have to worry about not sleeping during the red-eye, arrive in Europe in the afternoon with some time left for sightseeing, and then get a decent night's rest. No jet lag the next day.

I've tried Finnair before but out back. Service was really so-so, and the cabin crew were from HKG. Was it the same for you up front in J?

gaobest

Great TR and look forward to more. I assume this was summer 2019?

Hut

After a great sleep it was the alarm that woke me, the only deficiency of the airport hotel was a less than spectacular view of the airfield. This was easily remedied by taking the short trip back to the airport for breakfast.

Finnair Lounge



As I was hoping to be reunited with my bag in Bergen, I headed straight for security where I was the only one there… so, it was super quick and I was soon at the Finnair Lounge.



It was very busy when I first arrived, however it’s a big place and it emptied out after a bit.



I managed to find a seat by the window and looked into breakfast. There weren’t a lot of options – but what they did have was really nice.

Finnair AY803
Airbus A320 (OH-LXF)
Helsinki (HEL) -> Stockholm (ARN)
Depart 08:52, Arrive 08:55, Flight Time: 1:03



Our gate turned out to be in the basement and we jumped on a bus for a trip across the airport. Boarding was via the rear door; I’m guessing because we were parked at the international terminal.



It took quite awhile to get everyone aboard, while we waited, we watched as the jet bridge next door tried to knock over the not plane on wheels.



Based on the driving I’m thinking it was a learner… Our flight to Bergen would be making a quick stop in Stockholm and the super friendly crew stopped by to discuss breakfast. They said I could have it on either leg but given it would be second breakfast I suggested the second leg…



Not a lot to report on the flight, it was very quick and we ended up next to a pretty rare plane! Those of us continuing to Bergen remained onboard while the plane emptied out. After a brief pause the direction to traffic was reversed, but only a few people got on.

Finnair AY803
Airbus A320 (OH-LXF)
Stockholm (ARN) -> Bergen (BGO)
Depart 09:29, Arrive 10:44, Flight Time: 1:15



We were soon on our way; second breakfast was a sandwich along with coffee and juice.



This was another super quick flight and we were soon descending over the fjords…



… and had great views as we approached the airport.



On arrival, I was pretty sure were in the right place… I was reunited with my bag and headed for the airport bus. The university recommended this as it stopped right outside our accommodation where we would be met by one of the course coordinators. The next bus was a 40 minute wait so I was introduced to Norwegian sticker shock with an expensive coffee at the airport coffee shop. Many of my colleagues have lived in Norway and all of them had forewarned me – but still, it was bit ouchy.

Hatleberg Student Housing



After a trip through picturesque scenery and a surprising number of tunnels Google said we had arrived. As promised, one of the wonderful course coordinators was waiting to show me where to go. We were fortunate to enjoy the benefit of insanely cheap accommodation in the student housing across the road.



Most of the university students were on their summer break and had decamped, so we pretty much had the place to ourselves. Everyone got their own room, which came with a bed, desk and chair.



Plus, your own bathroom. There was also a kitchen that was shared among 6 or 7 rooms.



Most of us were on the water side which came with great views. Unfortunately, this was at the cost of the multi-lane freeway between us and the university. As a heavy sleeper it didn’t bother me, but a few had a hard time getting used to it.

Most of the afternoon was dedicated to mundane tasks like parting with a kidney at local grocery store, unpacking and obtaining a bus pass.



In the evening I headed into the city centre to explore and seek out dinner.



The old part of town long the water was established long long ago, 1070 I was told. It also has the misfortune of burning down. A lot. The remaining buildings generally accepted as being super old were first established after 1702 in Bryggen but as the locals told it, it gets a bit confusing as to which parts were rebuilt after each different fire. Suffice to say they are old and very pretty.

After an expensive dinner (you’ll see a theme about this in Norway!) and lots of walking about I was surprised to find it was 9 pm and I figured it was time to head back to bed. You couldn’t really tell it was bedtime as we were a long way north and it being summer it was light well into the early hours.

Hut

Most of the crew I talked to were from Finland and Estonia and were really good during the meal services. Didn't see much of them during the rest of the flight other than a run or two through the cabin, but I normally like to be left alone - so that works for me. The toilets were really bad and could have used a bit more attention.

Yep in the middle / end of June. Crazy to think all that's happened in just a year...

gaobest

How much was the airport coffee in Bergen - euro translation if possible.
how much were some of the groceries??

Hut

One of my colleagues grew up in Bergen, so when I mentioned that I was going she was delighted. I am reliably informed that most of the year it feels like Bergen’s weather challenges Aberdeen for the title of worst on the North Sea, but during the summer there are a few days where the sky is blue, and they must not be wasted.



The first official activity of the course was a welcome dinner in the eventing. So, when I woke to blue skies there was only one thing to do, head out and explore!



First up I headed into town to find breakfast and have a bit more of a look around. Unlike the previous evening it was super busy, I think, mainly with passengers from a few large cruise ships that arrived in the morning.



I made my way through town heading towards the green spaces that take you in the direction of Ulriken – a must see on a nice day according to my colleague.



The parks and trails were pretty busy…



…one of our lecturers would explain to us that after enduring the winter, the residents of Bergen seem powerless to resist heading out on a nice day.



There are two main ways to get to the top of Ulriken, I chose the easy way for my first trip.



There was a bit of a queue, but that was soon forgotten as we made our way to the top.



Space was understandably at a premium, it’s kinda weird to see this now we live in the world of Covid!



We also saw quite a few people who were taking the more rewarding journey to the top.



The view from the top was amazing and well worth the wait and rather expensive ticket!



What I didn’t appreciate was that there was a lot more to the top of the hill than a big antenna and a place for the flying box to drop you off. There are seemingly hundreds of trails to explore each with their own little quirks.



Scattered all over the place were little huts…



… lots of sheep…



… and a range of little lakes.



After exploring for a bit, I realised that I had left my sunblock back at Hatleberg and returned to the shop attached to the flying box thing. There I became the proud owner of a small quantity of sunblock that was more expensive that most of the fancy creams you’d find inside the doors of a department store. I still don’t like thinking about it!



I did a bit more exploring before it was time to head back for dinner.



It was a bit of a wait to get back down the mountain, but the views were awesome, and it beats walking!



The welcome dinner was great fun, with some nice traditional Norwegian dishes and did the get to know you thing. There were students from around the world, a couple of large cohorts from Australia and Canada. Unfortunately not many of us realised that there are some strict rules around alcohol sales in Norway and we were too late to visit the shop to continue the evening in the Hatleberg common room. So, we instead headed into town – which was super weird as it was still light outside!



While Saturday was a full-on day, Sunday was a lot more relaxed. After a lazy morning several of us met up to do the touristy things in town and enjoyed another lovely day before class was to begin.

Hut

Ah the magic of online banking tells me it was 6.61 AUD, which when I pay 3.50 for a nice cup of coffee at a fancy cafe in the CBD is pretty much 2x as much.... not sure what that was in EUR.

As for the supermarket, I spent round 300 AUD in two weeks which is a lot more than in Australia, especially when we ate out. Lots.

gaobest

wow - tbh 6.61 AUD isn’t that bad for airport coffee! Sfo is probably us$4 (aud $6) for 16-oz (450 gm) size. Even shops bakeries & cafes in San Francisco probably charge us$4 for a 16-Oz coffee.

Hut

We quickly settled into a routine, I guess schedules will do that! Class started at a leisurely 9am, which when the sun doesn’t really go that far below the horizon means you have time to explore in the mornings – if you want! Lunch ran from 12 – 1, could be procured at reasonable rates in the university cafeteria and we were normally finished by 4pm.



Many evenings were spent embracing our temporary return to the student lifestyle in the common room…



… while other evenings were spent in town, exploring local eating establishments, or in this case having the mandatory – if touristy and egregiously overpriced (even for Norway) dinner at the fish market



One of the evenings we headed into town and walked up to Fløyen which is a great vantage point to look over the city.



As you can also make your way up via a funicular it is super touristy at the top, but well worth a look.



The local inhabitants were super friendly and clearly used to tourists stopping by to say hello!



There were also some other inhabitants that were also a hit with the tourists, but for different reasons, I think…



There is an extensive network of trails in the hills behind the city which we used to walk back to Hatleberg.



I won’t lie, it took several hours, and we were ready for a drink at the end! But, along the way we stopped off to see some pretty amazing sights. Bergen really is an amazing place if you enjoy the outdoors, there are so many things to see just a short walk from town.

Hut

Saturday was the first school field trip I’ve taken for, I’m not sure how long – but its been a very long time! The plan for the day was to head out to a Salmon Farm that has been built for tourists to visit, then to a nearby farm, and head back via a waterfall.



Having spent the first week in Bergen, it was nice to see what can be found just a short drive from the city…



… the scenery is pretty spectacular and I think Mrs Hut and I could return to do a road trip in the future!



While the salmon farm was in the middle of a fjord, as an enterprise designed for tourism, access was an easy stroll out.



We were able to see a small-scale pen and then visited the attached information centre and dining room for a very nice lunch where there was a clear salmon theme!



The weather was a bit variable and there were a few showers as we ate, however it cleared up for us to made the trip back to the bus.



Next up was a short drive to a nearby farm to hear about life as a farmer in pretty picturesque part of the world…



… we all might have been taken by the outlook as we headed over the road to sample some of the apples in the form of apple pie.



After a lovely afternoon tea, we stopped off at Steinsdalsfossen – a waterfall you can walk under.



As you’d expect walking under was pretty spectacular…



… as was the view from the top!



After looking around it was time to head back. Like my memories of school trips from the past, while the trip out was rather lively, the ride home was quiet and subdued.



It not being a school night we stayed up quite late, however you wouldn’t know it looking out the window… the only hint is was late was the lights on at the university.



Waking up on Sunday, it was another great day to go exploring. The main challenge was called Stoltzekleiven, a very steep track up one of the nearby mountains. The top is in the top left of this photo… so yeah steep.



Apparently, Sherpas from Nepal were called on to help build the central section!



Things start gently enough, but once you hit the middle section – getting in the experts who know all about building on mountains seems very sensible!



On the way up I stopped several times, to take in the views of course.



I was hopeful this would be a sign that the end was near… Google broke my heart. Melkesyren = Lactic acid



The views from the top were well worth the effort…



… if a bit cold as its pretty exposed on the top.



Going up a steep trail can be… almost fun. Heading back down is most definitely not, so the best option is to continue on the network of trails that extend beyond the end of the trail.



The wind disappeared and the lakes were amazing!



I spent quite a few hours just enjoying being outside.



There were seemingly hundreds of people out on the trails, some running others clearly on family adventures.



Most impressive I think were families with young kids clambering up tricky trials in the middle of nowhere. I’m not sure I would have lasted when I was that little!



We had dinner in town for our last Sunday in Bergen…



… and enjoyed a few drinks late into the ah… I suppose you call it evening.



By the time we made it back there were colours on the horizon that indicated the sun might call it a day at some point. Apparently, if you wait long enough it does get a little dark, however showing some semblance of responsibility we chose not to wait it out. It was a school night after all.

Hut

Like out first week, we soon fell into a rhythm, sleep, class and evening excitement. As we needed to turn in a group assignment and presentation, there might have even been brief moments of academic output…



One of the highlights of the week was going back to Ulriken and taking the more rewarding path to the top…



… we were super lucky with the weather and only had a few rainy days – but this was one of them!



It was a fair hike and towards the top there were some locals to cheer us on…



Like the track up Stoltzekleiven, Sherpas have been engaged to rebuild the path to the top which is almost complete. Once we made it, we stopped to have a well earnt beverage or two…



… before taking the easy way down.



Another highlight was Thursday evening when the Foo Fighters put on an awesome show!



It was a little strange when the main act at your evening concert appears in the broad daylight, although by the time we were done, the sun was setting.



Our last day of class was pretty relaxed as most of us had finished all the course work and we manged to get off early. We spent the afternoon in town enjoying another awesome day.



Quite a few of us needed to pick up some gifts for those back home so we stopped by the touristy shops in Bryggen before sitting out in the sun for a drink or two.



After a final walk around town it was time to head back…



With the wonderful weather we had a barbeque for dinner…



… before heading over to one the course coordinators flat for a farewell celebration in the form of an – apparently, traditional Norwegian house party.



With a big travel day ahead and needing to pack, I turned into a pumpkin just before sunrise and with that an awesome holiday came to an end.

Hut

The trip home was a bit of a journey via Helsinki, Tokyo and Melbourne. I’d have 12 hours in Tokyo along with two nights a row on the plane.



I was up early to pack and clean the room to meet a somewhat earlier than ideal bus, but at a fraction of the cost of a taxi, it was the best option.



The airport is very nice. After a long wait, my bag was on its way and I headed off to find breakfast.



I figured I’d farewell the land of expensive food, with one last meal…



You know a place is doing well when the airport art is scratched up Lamborghini…



The international flights seemed to leave from the old part of the airport, so I headed over there just before boarding.

Finnair AY942
Embraer E190-E2 (LN-WEB)
Bergen (BGO) -> Helsinki (HEL)
Depart 12:01, Arrive 14:33, Flight Time: 1:32



Although this was a Finnair flight, it was operated by Widerøe on one of their new E190-E2’s, a new type for me.



There was plenty of leg room in the front row, and the first few rows were business class – but there wasn’t much difference from economy. All four seats on each row were occupied, there was a very nice meal and maybe a bit more attention from the super friendly crew. Not that you need much more on a 90 minute flight…



Boarding was rapid despite the flight being full and we were soon saying goodbye to Bergen.



On the way out we had some great views of the fjords and even flew over the salmon farm we visited.



A very tasty lunch was served over Sweden and was noticeably more substantial than the flight in the other direction.



We had a firm landing in Helsinki and did quite the tour of the airport as we took a bus from the plane to the terminal.

Finnair Lounge



I stopped by the Finnair lounge which was apparently under renovation and full.



The agent scanned my boarding card, but I couldn’t find a place to sit, as I was leaving the new arrivals were being turned away with a meal voucher… I asked if I could have one but was told that because I had arrived before they had hit the limit, I wouldn’t get one.



I found a table at the bar around the corner and was happy enough. I was there a little longer than expected as our boarding time was pushed out a couple of times.



I headed to the gate when the Finnair App said we were boarding to find it mostly empty and I was told somewhat impatiently by team running the show that boarding had started on time, and the app was wrong… There were evidently quite a few stragglers as we filled two entire busses!



Unlike the bus trip a few hours ago, this one was a bit more direct and didn’t involve an extended tour of the airport.

Finnair AY71
Airbus A350-900 (OH-LWE)
Helsinki (HEL) -> Tokyo (NRT)
Depart 17:38, Arrive 08:56, Flight Time: 9:18



Most of the cabin was full when I arrived and the Captain was explaining to those already onboard that we would be here for a while as there were a couple of late inbound flights that we would be waiting for.



The crew weren’t quite as friendly as team I had on the way over, but they were generous with the bubbles on the ground as we waited.



Orders for dinner were taken as we spent around 40 minutes waiting…



… all of a sudden, a bus arrived with 6 or 7 people along with the last container – that I’m guessing contained their bags and we were soon underway. A bit inconvenient for some, but it’s nice they held the plane. The pilot explained that depending on the air traffic we would be only 20-30 minutes late into Tokyo.



The crew quickly collected the glasses and we were soon in the air.



My IFE was a little wonky and required resetting a couple of times… I do like the info screen that tells you what to expect and helps out with the time zone maths!



Like the bubbles on the ground, the crew kept the drinks flowing in the air.



Dinner started with a great first plate.



I ordered the pork for dinner, however there was a mix up and I was given the Salmon. I happy with how it turned out as the salmon was delicious!



Capping off a great meal was coffee, cake and ice cream.



I watched a few movies and got a little sleep on the flight over to Tokyo.



Breakfast was served around an hour from Tokyo and I went with the Japanese option which was really nice.



It was cloudy and raining when as we arrived, it was awesome to watch the airport appear out of the clouds and also see the weather we created ourselves.



We didn’t quite make as much time up as expected in the flight and arrived around an hour late.

GregWTravels

Thanks for the report. It's been a great read, and some great photos!

I like this. I'm always doing the math in my head, or waiting for the screen to change from "time at departure" to the one with "time at destination".