I am a traveler, like my father before me. Around the world in F & J
Apr 9, 2019, 7:33 am
#61
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Washington DC
Programs: AA Plt Pro (2MM)
Posts: 200
Really enjoying this report, especially the personal touch. It's not just a tale of a fantastic trip, it's a "journey" in the truest sense of the word...something we don't often get to read here on FT. Thank you for writing this...
Apr 14, 2019, 10:22 pm
#62
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,677
Going slightly earlier is a good call as well. If I recall correctly it gets very busy at dinner.
I read this and thought you took the roller home!
Apr 15, 2019, 3:57 am
#64
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 83
This is actually the first time I’m reading a TR on FT and what a great privilege as well! I had a big laugh about how your dad wanted to get to the airport early, just like my parents who would rather wait 4-5 hours at the airport than home, just in case there’s issues along the way, etc. You’re an amazing writer, I’m hooked and can’t wait to read the rest.
Apr 15, 2019, 10:26 am
#65
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: 6km East of EPAYE
Programs: UA Silver, AA Platinum, AS & DL GM Marriott TE, Hilton Gold
Posts: 9,582
Part 6: All the noodles!
By the authority of TOMFORD I am obligated to alert all readers I have actually never been to Hong Kong, including on this trip because I am dumb and have never purchased an octopus card.
You'd think after the Changi Village breakfast kerfuffle I would have learned my lesson......you'd think. Nope! Our second day in Hong Kong started with me declaring I knew where to go for breakfast, and it wasn't in the hotel. If you think you know where this is going, you are correct. Like I said, you'd think I would have learned my lesson. We made the quick hop from Admiralty to Central and began wondering through central looking for Leaf Dessert a low key noodle spot.
Good morning
Emoji cake
Art
Markets
After quite a bit of wondering, and waiting for my phone to catch up we arrived. D'OH! If you're thinking "Leaf Dessert......did this ding-dong screw up finding ANOTHER Anthony Bourdain spot" Yes, yes I did. It was closed (all damn day). Well there it is folks, the roughly one hundred year old Noodle spot featured in the final season of Part Unknown, boarded up with not a noodle to be found. Our day was not off to a good start
My father turned his familiar shade of red, but I've got to be honest I didn't take this one in stride. This one pissed me off.
"Where is breakfast?"
"There"
"Where?"
*Pointing*
"There"
"it looks closed to me"
*Taking photo*
"It looks closed to me too"
*Turns around and goes back to hotel for breakfast buffet*
I don't mind making mistakes and technically this isn't the same mistake as Singapore because that was the wrong location, where this was the right location on the wrong day, but this one really really got to me. I turned right around and walked back to Central, took the subway to Admiralty walked back into the hotel and right into the lounge. I hadn't said a word until I got some corn flakes in me when I finally mumbled "Damn-it." My father just laughed [with me]...I needed that. My first try at noodles was a bust, but not to worry there were two more meals in the day and we had plans!
Kowloon
My father was in search of tea, and not just any 'ol tea. Good tea. This man takes tea very seriously, and had been advised by his friend in Singapore (who used to live in Hong Kong) that we had to go to Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium in Kowloon by Jordan Station (exit A). From there we planned to walk straight up Nathan Road to one of my favorite spots, Chan Chi Kee Cutlery Co. to grab some knives for friends followed by lunch in Shim Shui Po.
Yue Hwa is an amazing place, and I'd apologize for not taking any photos but I was shopping, and the place was plastered with no photography signs as well as people eyeing my camera. The floors just don't end; one after another like a Chinese Harrods. If you haven't been you really have to check this place out. While my dad successfully found tea, then got lost on another floor which made him very hard to find, I stumbled on something from my childhood I thought would be great to get my son. One of the many things my father trucked home for me and my sisters were chop's with calligraphy of our names, so I picked one out with rooster for 2017 and had it engraved with his name. I am not sure when I will give it to him, but it's in my desk waiting for the right time.
Loaded down with tea and having a few hours to kill before the chop would be ready we continued out journey north heading for CCK and the restaurant district
HA!
Passing through the jade market
Arriving at CCK my dad's eyes lit up! I had gotten my parents a knife in 2015 but never got the sense that they used it much. As I review that sentence I am not sure why u used the plural, my dad can't boil water - so I guess it should read I never got the sense that my mother liked the knife I got her. Ya, that is better. Well according to my dad, my mom did like the knife but just wanted a smaller one. While I was looking to complete my collection with a large chopper I had to get a few duck slicers for friends who had seen or used mine. When I was done with my purchase, I looked over, say my father holding up a knife while asking questions and took a photo I like to call "epic side-eye."
"Sir, this is not William and Sonoma"
My dad stopped brandishing weapons long enough to take out his wallet and buy a few knives too, but that was truly my most hilarious trip to CCK ever. After his Nth question, you wouldn't believe how quickly people pretended they didn't speak English
My new large chopper at home where it belongs. The collection is complete (Chopper, duck slicer classic, duck slicer small, melon knife)
Zorro and I hopped back onto the MTR at Yau Ma Tei and headed towards Sham Shui Po for very special noodles. If you don't know what bamboo pole noodles are, give this article a look. Bamboo pole noodles or Jook-Sing are noodles made literally with a bamboo pole. I won't get into the details of this arduous technique, I'll let the article do that for me, but it is a dying art that I have long wanted to sample. As far as I have researched there are not many of these bamboo noodle shops left in Hong Kong, but Lau Sum kee Noodle is one of them, and it came highly recommended and I bet you can guess by whom.....
Four tables seating five people each
Waiting
Lunch: Noodles with wontons in broth
A quick look into the kitchen on our way out
I can unequivocally say there is a difference between great noodles and bamboo pole noodles. The spot I like in Central and visited during my 2017 trip report, or the place my father and I are going for dinner later in this trip are great; truly great. But the mouth feel, and texture of these is like nothing I've ever experienced. If you've taken the time to read this far thank you, but seriously next time you're in China or Hong Kong find one of these places and enjoy it because they are special.
Full of deliciousness we headed out to do a little exploring
'When they finally let you hold the gun'
While walking back to the MTR we realized we were being cased by a quite strung out looking non local, who lucky for us was really bad at following people so we ducked into a Chinese medicine shop and pretended to need something for a few minutes while tweeker got frustrated and walked away.
We headed all the way back to the JW to drop off our bags and rest a few minutes before heading back out to ride the star ferry - the ONE thing my dad wanted to do in Hong Kong. We decided to walk to the ferry port which is easier than we made it but finally found our way through Tamar park and down to the water.
Walking through err....under the government building
Art or iron pringle. You decide
Walking along I realized my dad was no longer next to me.....Oh lord give me strength
Finally we had arrived
As we took our seats and trundled away from the dock my dad started talking. I had been hearing him talk about star ferry for as long as I can remember hearing him talk. I knew this was his happy place, the exact spot where he had left his heart when he last departed Hong Kong but to see him rub the bench with his hands, and touch the rivets in the walls as if he was walking into his childhood home hit me hard.
"When I was here they'd let you stay on going back-and-forth as long as you wanted."
"I used to ride this after work with a pen and pad, away from everyone, able to think. Able to solve problems."
We got up and walked to the edge of the boat.
*pointing out towards Kowloon finding the Shangri La*
"Those buildings weren't there, and I used to stay riiiiiiiiight....there!"
"I stayed there at least fifty times. Oh I loved that hotel. They knew how to do it right"
I'll tell you all a secret, one I didn't tell anyone in my family until after this trip. I planned this trip, the whole thing just to take one photo. Seriously, this was a giant plan to snap a single frame. I know some day I am going to share the star ferry with my son too. I doubt it will be my 50th+ trip to Hong Kong like my father, but I know it will happen. Having grown up hearing about the food, and the people, and the flying, and the ferry I wanted to capture a tiny piece of it for myself not just in the food we ate but in a specific photo, one I wish someone else took thirty years ago. Sitting here writing I have Flickr open too so that I can add photos to the post and the shot is on the other monitor right in front of me, nearly two months later and my eyes are welling up. I got it and it's perfect. Black and white, city in the background, dad gazing out onto a memory. Hopefully some day soon I will have permission to share it with all of you, but until then - boats.
Off the ferry we decided to take the walk of stars towards the Shangri La as the walk along the water was new for both of us. I gave the camera a rest for a few minutes as my dad was still talking about the Kowloon he knew and his trips to Hong Kong.
Bruce
We took a quick peek into the Shangri La but everything around it had changed, including buildings that were obscuring the views from his old corner room. From afar looking at the Shangri La was fun, but walking through and around it was as sad as saying goodbye to his friend in Singapore so to get us out of the doldrums I did a little quick thinking, hailed a cab and said "Ritz Carlton please. Ozone bar." Not wanting to spoil the surprise for my dad, I kept a low profile as we arrived and headed for the 118th floor.
When we arrived I was pleasantly surprised how well he took to the atmosphere but we were both very disappointed to have zero view. We enjoyed a table inside, as well as a few drinks before realizing it was dinner time. Actually knowing where I was I recommended we head back down through the IFC and into the Elements Mall where we would find the restaurant Tasty Congee Noodle & Wantun Soup.
Noodles and pork - a great way to end the day!!!
Dad recommended not taking a taxi back to Central but taking it to the ferry terminal and riding the star again so that we could enjoy the lights which was a great call.
Just like the second to last night in Singapore a need to head out on my own a little bit so I headed back to Central to the highly recommended Sevva bar and lounge. Both TomFord and JohnRain recommended this spot and I was told very clearly by TomFord "[D]o not wear sneakers and embarrass me."
What a view!
After loitering quite a bit, I finally grabbed a seat and as I sat down I noticed the person behind me was wearing sneaker! I snapped a photo and sent it off to TomFord declaring him wrong....I was immediately shot down
"Dude, those are $500 Yeezy's! Not knowing that is why you're not allowed to wear sneakers to Sevva!!"
Touche' my friend
Dessert
Full of cake, and beer I was ready to call it a night. One more day in Hong Kong with my dad then a very very long trip home lay ahead of me. Sorry about the delay in posting this part 6, I've had some work travel to juggle.
Next: Part 7: Not with a bang but with a whimper
You'd think after the Changi Village breakfast kerfuffle I would have learned my lesson......you'd think. Nope! Our second day in Hong Kong started with me declaring I knew where to go for breakfast, and it wasn't in the hotel. If you think you know where this is going, you are correct. Like I said, you'd think I would have learned my lesson. We made the quick hop from Admiralty to Central and began wondering through central looking for Leaf Dessert a low key noodle spot.
Good morning
Emoji cake
Art
Markets
After quite a bit of wondering, and waiting for my phone to catch up we arrived. D'OH! If you're thinking "Leaf Dessert......did this ding-dong screw up finding ANOTHER Anthony Bourdain spot" Yes, yes I did. It was closed (all damn day). Well there it is folks, the roughly one hundred year old Noodle spot featured in the final season of Part Unknown, boarded up with not a noodle to be found. Our day was not off to a good start
My father turned his familiar shade of red, but I've got to be honest I didn't take this one in stride. This one pissed me off.
"Where is breakfast?"
"There"
"Where?"
*Pointing*
"There"
"it looks closed to me"
*Taking photo*
"It looks closed to me too"
*Turns around and goes back to hotel for breakfast buffet*
I don't mind making mistakes and technically this isn't the same mistake as Singapore because that was the wrong location, where this was the right location on the wrong day, but this one really really got to me. I turned right around and walked back to Central, took the subway to Admiralty walked back into the hotel and right into the lounge. I hadn't said a word until I got some corn flakes in me when I finally mumbled "Damn-it." My father just laughed [with me]...I needed that. My first try at noodles was a bust, but not to worry there were two more meals in the day and we had plans!
Kowloon
My father was in search of tea, and not just any 'ol tea. Good tea. This man takes tea very seriously, and had been advised by his friend in Singapore (who used to live in Hong Kong) that we had to go to Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium in Kowloon by Jordan Station (exit A). From there we planned to walk straight up Nathan Road to one of my favorite spots, Chan Chi Kee Cutlery Co. to grab some knives for friends followed by lunch in Shim Shui Po.
Yue Hwa is an amazing place, and I'd apologize for not taking any photos but I was shopping, and the place was plastered with no photography signs as well as people eyeing my camera. The floors just don't end; one after another like a Chinese Harrods. If you haven't been you really have to check this place out. While my dad successfully found tea, then got lost on another floor which made him very hard to find, I stumbled on something from my childhood I thought would be great to get my son. One of the many things my father trucked home for me and my sisters were chop's with calligraphy of our names, so I picked one out with rooster for 2017 and had it engraved with his name. I am not sure when I will give it to him, but it's in my desk waiting for the right time.
Loaded down with tea and having a few hours to kill before the chop would be ready we continued out journey north heading for CCK and the restaurant district
HA!
Passing through the jade market
Arriving at CCK my dad's eyes lit up! I had gotten my parents a knife in 2015 but never got the sense that they used it much. As I review that sentence I am not sure why u used the plural, my dad can't boil water - so I guess it should read I never got the sense that my mother liked the knife I got her. Ya, that is better. Well according to my dad, my mom did like the knife but just wanted a smaller one. While I was looking to complete my collection with a large chopper I had to get a few duck slicers for friends who had seen or used mine. When I was done with my purchase, I looked over, say my father holding up a knife while asking questions and took a photo I like to call "epic side-eye."
"Sir, this is not William and Sonoma"
My dad stopped brandishing weapons long enough to take out his wallet and buy a few knives too, but that was truly my most hilarious trip to CCK ever. After his Nth question, you wouldn't believe how quickly people pretended they didn't speak English
My new large chopper at home where it belongs. The collection is complete (Chopper, duck slicer classic, duck slicer small, melon knife)
Zorro and I hopped back onto the MTR at Yau Ma Tei and headed towards Sham Shui Po for very special noodles. If you don't know what bamboo pole noodles are, give this article a look. Bamboo pole noodles or Jook-Sing are noodles made literally with a bamboo pole. I won't get into the details of this arduous technique, I'll let the article do that for me, but it is a dying art that I have long wanted to sample. As far as I have researched there are not many of these bamboo noodle shops left in Hong Kong, but Lau Sum kee Noodle is one of them, and it came highly recommended and I bet you can guess by whom.....
Four tables seating five people each
Waiting
Lunch: Noodles with wontons in broth
A quick look into the kitchen on our way out
I can unequivocally say there is a difference between great noodles and bamboo pole noodles. The spot I like in Central and visited during my 2017 trip report, or the place my father and I are going for dinner later in this trip are great; truly great. But the mouth feel, and texture of these is like nothing I've ever experienced. If you've taken the time to read this far thank you, but seriously next time you're in China or Hong Kong find one of these places and enjoy it because they are special.
Full of deliciousness we headed out to do a little exploring
'When they finally let you hold the gun'
While walking back to the MTR we realized we were being cased by a quite strung out looking non local, who lucky for us was really bad at following people so we ducked into a Chinese medicine shop and pretended to need something for a few minutes while tweeker got frustrated and walked away.
We headed all the way back to the JW to drop off our bags and rest a few minutes before heading back out to ride the star ferry - the ONE thing my dad wanted to do in Hong Kong. We decided to walk to the ferry port which is easier than we made it but finally found our way through Tamar park and down to the water.
Walking through err....under the government building
Art or iron pringle. You decide
Walking along I realized my dad was no longer next to me.....Oh lord give me strength
Finally we had arrived
As we took our seats and trundled away from the dock my dad started talking. I had been hearing him talk about star ferry for as long as I can remember hearing him talk. I knew this was his happy place, the exact spot where he had left his heart when he last departed Hong Kong but to see him rub the bench with his hands, and touch the rivets in the walls as if he was walking into his childhood home hit me hard.
"When I was here they'd let you stay on going back-and-forth as long as you wanted."
"I used to ride this after work with a pen and pad, away from everyone, able to think. Able to solve problems."
We got up and walked to the edge of the boat.
*pointing out towards Kowloon finding the Shangri La*
"Those buildings weren't there, and I used to stay riiiiiiiiight....there!"
"I stayed there at least fifty times. Oh I loved that hotel. They knew how to do it right"
I'll tell you all a secret, one I didn't tell anyone in my family until after this trip. I planned this trip, the whole thing just to take one photo. Seriously, this was a giant plan to snap a single frame. I know some day I am going to share the star ferry with my son too. I doubt it will be my 50th+ trip to Hong Kong like my father, but I know it will happen. Having grown up hearing about the food, and the people, and the flying, and the ferry I wanted to capture a tiny piece of it for myself not just in the food we ate but in a specific photo, one I wish someone else took thirty years ago. Sitting here writing I have Flickr open too so that I can add photos to the post and the shot is on the other monitor right in front of me, nearly two months later and my eyes are welling up. I got it and it's perfect. Black and white, city in the background, dad gazing out onto a memory. Hopefully some day soon I will have permission to share it with all of you, but until then - boats.
Off the ferry we decided to take the walk of stars towards the Shangri La as the walk along the water was new for both of us. I gave the camera a rest for a few minutes as my dad was still talking about the Kowloon he knew and his trips to Hong Kong.
Bruce
We took a quick peek into the Shangri La but everything around it had changed, including buildings that were obscuring the views from his old corner room. From afar looking at the Shangri La was fun, but walking through and around it was as sad as saying goodbye to his friend in Singapore so to get us out of the doldrums I did a little quick thinking, hailed a cab and said "Ritz Carlton please. Ozone bar." Not wanting to spoil the surprise for my dad, I kept a low profile as we arrived and headed for the 118th floor.
When we arrived I was pleasantly surprised how well he took to the atmosphere but we were both very disappointed to have zero view. We enjoyed a table inside, as well as a few drinks before realizing it was dinner time. Actually knowing where I was I recommended we head back down through the IFC and into the Elements Mall where we would find the restaurant Tasty Congee Noodle & Wantun Soup.
Noodles and pork - a great way to end the day!!!
Dad recommended not taking a taxi back to Central but taking it to the ferry terminal and riding the star again so that we could enjoy the lights which was a great call.
Just like the second to last night in Singapore a need to head out on my own a little bit so I headed back to Central to the highly recommended Sevva bar and lounge. Both TomFord and JohnRain recommended this spot and I was told very clearly by TomFord "[D]o not wear sneakers and embarrass me."
What a view!
After loitering quite a bit, I finally grabbed a seat and as I sat down I noticed the person behind me was wearing sneaker! I snapped a photo and sent it off to TomFord declaring him wrong....I was immediately shot down
"Dude, those are $500 Yeezy's! Not knowing that is why you're not allowed to wear sneakers to Sevva!!"
Touche' my friend
Dessert
Full of cake, and beer I was ready to call it a night. One more day in Hong Kong with my dad then a very very long trip home lay ahead of me. Sorry about the delay in posting this part 6, I've had some work travel to juggle.
Next: Part 7: Not with a bang but with a whimper
Last edited by Madone59; Jun 10, 2019 at 1:55 pm
Apr 15, 2019, 2:28 pm
#67
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: LAX
Programs: United Silver, Marriott Lifetime Titanium, Hilton Diamond, IHG Diamond
Posts: 988
Good lord...no Octopus card? How many precious minutes you could have spent exploring the city have you pissed away over the years digging out coins to feed the ticket machines?
Apr 15, 2019, 6:48 pm
#68
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: 6km East of EPAYE
Programs: UA Silver, AA Platinum, AS & DL GM Marriott TE, Hilton Gold
Posts: 9,582
Apr 15, 2019, 6:58 pm
#69
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,528
After quite a bit of wondering, and waiting for my phone to catch up we arrived. D'OH! If you're thinking "Leaf Dessert......did this ding-dong screw up finding ANOTHER Anthony Bourdain spot" Yes, yes I did. It was closed (all damn day). Well there it is folks, the roughly one hundred year old Noodle spot featured in the final season of Part Unknown, boarded up with not a noodle to be found. Our day was not off to a good start
...also, between you and TomFord I feel like the least fashionable FlyerTalker ever.
Apr 15, 2019, 7:13 pm
#70
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: DTW
Programs: DL DM, National EE, Hertz PC, IHG PL, Bonvoy Amb
Posts: 1,342
Apr 18, 2019, 10:44 am
#72
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bargara Australia
Programs: VA, SQ, IHG, HH,ALL, Europcar
Posts: 1,530
I feel like Tony must be looking down from the great beyond, reading this post, shaking his head, and saying something like "some days, the dragon wins. The best you can do is roll with the punches."
...also, between you and TomFord I feel like the least fashionable FlyerTalker ever.
...also, between you and TomFord I feel like the least fashionable FlyerTalker ever.
Ironmanjt you always have the most amazing sneakers so no you are very fashionable
Apr 19, 2019, 11:19 am
#73
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: London-Venice
Programs: BA Gold, *A Gold
Posts: 189
Thank you for this TR. I am enjoying it and it also brings back memories of a trip I took with my parents more than thirty years ago. (I am slightly younger than your father, mid-sixties). You brought back very fond memories of me, my (late) first wife, my eldest son and my parents in Maracaibo in the mid-eighties. My father used to work for an oil company and before I was born they had lived in Maracaibo for about four years in the late forties/early fifties and loved it.
Apr 22, 2019, 8:22 am
#74
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: TPE
Programs: CX Silver
Posts: 146
My father was in search of tea, and not just any 'ol tea. Good tea. This man takes tea very seriously, and had been advised by his friend in Singapore (who used to live in Hong Kong) that we had to go to Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium in Kowloon by Jordan Station (exit A).
This is how we spend our vacations.