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Collecting Continents: Circle of the World, but not RTW

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Old Oct 8, 2017, 9:15 pm
  #106  
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Originally Posted by rosensfole
So much more to see when walking around which is how I prefer to see a city much to the chagrin of my partner
Many thanks! This is really something I've discovered in 2017 that I really enjoy. I'm very open to suggestions from people of cities that have great 15-25k walking routes for next year.

Originally Posted by Vaterland
Sir, your beautiful photos of Petersburg have stirred some wonderful memories! I would love traveling to Petersburg during the harshness of winter.
Stay tuned...I'm hoping to do a week in Russia again this winter!

Originally Posted by Calchas
I'm enjoying this ^
Gracias!
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Old Oct 9, 2017, 12:08 pm
  #107  
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18. St. Petersburg to Helsinki in Allegro business class, overnight Helsinki

Since I would be sitting on the train for a good part of the day, and my train wasn't scheduled to leave until nearly 4pm, I decided to go for another walk around St. Petersburg in the morning. It was also an excuse to stop by Starbucks and get some decent coffee to wake up. Ended up walking nearly 3 miles down Nevsky Prospekt before heading back to the W to pack up and head to the train station.

I think the thing that surprised me the most was just how small the international departures area of Finlandsky Station was. It was basically one large medium sized room with a couple small kiosks. Compared to the station in Moscow which I had departed from it felt positively tiny. When it was time to board, both Finnish and Russian train personnel were on hand to check IDs and tickets.

If there was any question I'd already done enough walking, the business class car was located at the very far end of the platform. The nice thing was, this allowed time to get a great picture of the Allegro train:



Inside seating was in a comfortable 2-1 configuration, but compared to the SAPSAN trains between Moscow and St. Petersburg it felt quite cramped. Granted, this is business class instead of first class, but still...



2-1 seating was nice, as it meant nobody to climb over or have climb over you.



Well, that would be the case if anyone was actually on the train. There were a grand total of three people in business class today!



Almost as soon as we left the station, the "menu tray" came out.



Despite the menu tray promising five options, today there would be onto two choices...both sandwiches. To drink? Two little cups of water. Very strange "meal" for a "business class."



Oh wait...the cabin attendant came back a few minutes later. Apparently, he'd forgotten to give us the cheese course as well...



Perhaps the "coolest" part of the journey was crossing the Schengen border by train - something quite difficult to do these days. First the Russians stamped you out of the country, and then the Finns came by and stamped you into Finland and the Schengen. Many fewer points these days where you can get Schengen train stamps, but I remember the days when you would get them on the train even going between Germany and France.



Near the end of the ride, I was getting a little hungry, so headed to the dining car to see about a snack. Gotta love that the beer comes with a custom glass...



Welcome to Helsinki station!



I had booked the Radisson Blu Plaza right across the plaza from the train station which was a quick five minute walk from the train at most. The corridors certainly had some very funky lighting, and the room numbers were projected on the floor:



My train had arrived over an hour late, meaning it was already late when I got in so I went straight to grab a bite to eat. Sori Brewing right around the corner from the hotel was recommended to me, so I started out with their five beer taster. Sori is actually brewed in Estonia, and from what I understand it's still cheaper to import than it is to get the licensing to brew craft beers in Finland. I know this is changing, but...



They also had a fantastic burger, and it hit the spot. Tomorrow would be a very long travel day, and I wanted to make sure to get lots of rest with four flight segments coming up! I really need to make time to get back to Helsinki and Finland in general soon for a proper visit - perhaps in the summer for the white nights.
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Old Oct 11, 2017, 7:52 pm
  #108  
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19. Helsinki to Detroit: SAS Plus, Icelandair Business Class, United First

Alarm went off around 7am, and as usual the first thing I did was turn off Airplane Mode. The flood of notifications started: email, facebook, instagram, twitter...and United. Hmmm, that's unusual. Must be that it was time to check in for my flight tonight from Washington Dulles to Detroit for my NEXUS renewal interview.

Nope. Almost 22 hours before the flight was scheduled to depart, United canceled it for "weather." Um, there's no weather in or predicted for either Washington DC or Detroit - what gives? I can only guess that the hurricane was stranding planes all over the place, and of course because it was weather...tough luck.

Called and got an agent who told me she could get me out the next morning...at 6am...via Chicago...with a 40 minute connection. Um, that's not going to work, and I have to get to the airport here in Helsinki. I'll touch base when I have more time - but please protect me on that 6am and note that I still have the right to cancel. Great agent, and she was happy to do that.

Quick breakfast at the Radisson Blu as it was included with my rate, and I was super impressed. Huge buffet spread with lots of tasty options, and the only downside is that the breakfast room was absolutely packed. The checkin agent the day before did say they were booked to capacity, and it was a Monday, so that probably explains a lot of it. That said, I'm definitely staying here again my next stop in Helsinki.

It had been about a year since I was last in Helsinki, and since then trains from the main station had started running to the airport. Quick walk across the square, easy to buy a ticket from a vending machine, and only had to wait about five minutes for the train to depart. This makes this hotel combo absolutely priceless going forward. Plus...a great beer restaurant right around the corner!

Arrived at the airport in plenty of time, and the station was quite a hike from the terminal. Given I'd be spending the whole day on planes that was just fine with me, and quickly found the SAS check-in area and got my boarding pass. Of course, the most important place in the terminal was in the other terminal: Starbucks. Got my venti americano, and all was right in the world. Now, off to the gate.

Back to the other terminal (about a five minute walk) up the escalator, and surprised to find absolutely no security queue at all. I was through in 2-3 minutes, and even had 15 minutes for the lounge. The SAS Lounge was right by the security area, and since I had just had breakfast and coffee, I just wanted somewhere to charge my devices for a short bit and sit down. Headed to the gate about 40 minutes before boarding - which was a waste - because the plane only arrived about 30 minutes before departure, and we started boarding maybe 15 minutes before departure.

SAS flight 707
Helsinki, Finland (HEL) to Stockholm, Sweden (ARN)
Depart 11:15, Arrive 11:15, Flight Time: 1:00
Boeing 737-600, Registration LN-RCW, Manufactured 1999, Seat 2A
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 98,640
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,475,617


Does that mean we'll depart late? No. Despite an absolutely packed flight, departure was still right on time. No matter how much you like airlines in the United States, one thing that is horrible is the refugee exodus that happens during boarding. People bringing on everything they own. Maybe I'm being a snob because I get to board first and bring slightly more than I "should" but if you're in group 8 or 9....be realistic! You know you're going to have to check that giant Sampsonite!

Rant over, time to fly. Only 45 minutes in the air, but they still served a small snack...which was much tastier than expected! I never figured out if Seat 2A was technically "business class" or "economy plus" but didn't matter to me in the end. I got a drink, the middle seat was empty, and I was happy.



Off the plane right on time, and first job was to try and find a transfer desk and get my Icelandair boarding passes since it was a separate ticket. I had considered a flight in Finnair which would have left me 1:45 to connect (aka more sleep) but decided not to risk it. Looks like I could have, but end of the day, risks like that aren't usually worth it. Finally found an SAS transfer counter, where the sole agent was busy dealing with a very unhappy passenger who had missed the only flight of the day to her destination for some reason.

Eventually, she got around to helping me, and apparently Icelandair is a bit of a pain because she looked like I was seriously annoying her. I probably shouldn't have asked her (after getting boarding passes) if there was still a Starbucks in the terminal, because I got an annoyed "no, it closed. The only one is outside." Ok fine...could you maybe point me to the lounge? "Well i *guess* you can use that one" - pointing to the elevators right across from the desk.

Up to the SAS lounge which had cool barcode scanners for admission. Also, where my Icelandair boarding pass didn't seem to work. The agent in charge seemed puzzled if I should get in or not, and asked for a frequent flier card. I gave her my United Star Gold card (despite them having nothing to do with Icelandair), and she scanned that and it didn't work either. She was sure I should be let in, but couldn't figure out how to do it, so eventually decided research was more work than it was worth and just manually let me in.

Not much to say about the lounge...good spread of food and drink, huge and plenty of seating, and ample places to plug in and charge the laptop. Other than that, it was a pretty average lounge, although it did have pretty good tarmac views.

Headed to the gate about 40 minutes before departure, and it was a relatively short five minute walk from the lounge. I knew the flight was very full, but the gate area was packed, and there were at least 20 wheelchairs waiting to board. Lots of American passports showing, and this was clearly the Sweden to America geriatric express.

Icelandair flight 307
Stockholm, Sweden (ARN) to Reykjavik, Iceland (KEF)
Depart 14:20, Arrive 15:30, Flight Time: 3:10
Boeing 767-300, Registration TF-ISP, Manufactured 1997, Seat 4A
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 99,977
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,476,594


Fortunately, business "Saga" class was only about half full today, which let me move to a window seat and keep the seat next to me empty in the 2-1-2 config. I've posted quite a lot how I hate climbing over people or having them climb over me, so it's always nice when I can get a window seat and still avoid this. Of course, the internet wasn't working on this plane, so that was a big negative to the flight.

Menus were passed out as we waited for everyone to board:



Wine list was included:



Service on this relatively short flight started out with a beverage and nut service. The nuts came in a chinese takeout container, and were sugar coated almonds. Strange, but points for originality.



I had preordered my meal online, but it wasn't catered. In addition to the internet not working, my already low impression of Icelandair was even going lower. First the internet wasn't working, and now my meal wasn't loaded. Two strikes. That said, the fishy entree was pretty tasty.



Short connection of about 50 minutes in Reykjavik, and when I tried to stop in the lounge (which is on the Schengen side before immigration) I was told there was no time, I had to go straight through immigration to the gate...so I did.

You can guess what this meant. 30 minutes of waiting in the gate area to board my connecting flight. My memory of this wait is of an extremely obnoxious guy and his mother waiting to board. He was .....ing up a storm that nobody in Iceland could manage to charter him a plane to fly him home, and they had to pay $2,500 for one first class ticket and the other person had to sit in coach. Making him even more of a jerk in my mind, was that he made his mother sit in coach while he sat in business class. After three weeks away, ugh, welcome back to the ugly side of America.

Icelandair flight 645
Reykjavik, Iceland (KEF) to Washington DC, Dulles (IAD)
Depart 16:50, Arrive 19:10, Flight Time: 6:20
Boeing 767-300, Registration TF-ISW, Manufactured 1997, Seat 1D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 102,776
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,479,753


This flight was already looking up...and like a flight to the US...with plastic glasses of sparkling wine offered pre-departure:



Once again, they hadn't loaded my pre-ordered meal, but the menu looked relatively tasty:



No almonds in a takeout container this time, but the "famous" Icelandair carmelcorn:



I went with the veal main, which was very United-esque in taste and poor plating. The herring starter with deviled egg was tasty....but stay tuned...



Landed on time, exhausted, and since my United flight to Detroit was canceled I figured I might as well spend the night at home and save money. My hotel in Detroit was kind enough to waive the late cancelation fee, so it was off to Uber and a fantastic night in my own bed. Since my NEXUS interview wasn't until 12:30 the next day, that still left me plenty of time in the morning to make my way to Detroit.

When I got home, I had a look at Delta, and noticed the morning flight to Detroit had a bunch of empty seats, so opted to ask United for a refund and decided to risk going to Detroit standby. Fortunately, when I woke up, the flight was still very open and I had no trouble at all getting on it.

Unfortunately, the minute I stepped into the Delta Skyclub, I knew I'd made a very, very poor decision eating fish and deviled eggs on a plane the previous day. Nausea and all the other food-borne illness side effects rapidly just set in, and I just prayed I would make it through the flight...

Delta flight 2359
Washington DC, National (DCA) to Detroit, Michigan (DTW)
Depart 7:30, Arrive 9:03, Flight Time: 1:33
Airbus A319, Registration N316NB, Manufactured 2000, Seat 24C
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 103,182
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,480,159


Hey, at least I got an aisle seat so that's a positive! I can't say no to a Diet Coke and Biscoff, even if I was seriously nauseous.



By the time we landed I was full on majorly nauseous. Head was spinning when walking, and overall just felt sick. If it wasn't for the fact my NEXUS (and thus Global Entry and PreCheck) was expiring in three days, I would have turned around and gone home and tried to reschedule. Lesson learned: don't leave things to the last minute.

Was originally planning to Uber to my appointment and ask the Uber to wait, but for some reason that felt logistically difficult so I decided to see if I could get a rental from Hertz. No problem, great rate, much cheaper than a roundtrip Uber, and I was set. Off to the shuttle to the Hertz lot, fantastic agent brought me into her office as a Platinum member, and asked if a Volvo would be ok today. Sweet upgrade, although I was feeling too nauseous to even care.

By this point, I should have heeded all the warning signs from the universe: canceled United flight, food-borne illness, but no, I didn't and proceeded with the interview, which started off perfectly fine. The Canadian agents processed me in under a minute, then it was on to the American agent, who seemed not in the best of moods. First comment to his colleague: "hey...Martha...look at this! You ever seen someone who's been to so many countries...ut oh, Cuba? We have a problem"

Without going into details, the agent seemed completely unaware of the changes a couple years prior towards US policy to Cuba and refused to approve my renewal. I was told "if you find any documents that support your case, please fax them." Ugh. Yet, he still took my fingerprints and biometrics. Odd.

Back to the airport, drop off the car, and off to the Delta Skyclub where I sat as a nauseous mess for a couple hours until it was time to board my flight.

Delta flight 1144
Detroit, Michigan (DTW) to Washington DC, National (DCA)
Depart 15:35, Arrive 17:10, Flight Time: 1:35
Airbus A319, Registration N316NB, Manufactured 2000, Seat 15D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 103,588
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,480,565


Fortunately, I got an aisle seat again, and the flight passed without any major excitement. Quite an overly-eventful end to what had been a fantastic 3+ week trip.

Just to finish the story, about two weeks later, after faxing my explanation of how my Cuba trip was "legal" under the new US policy, along with a citation of the policy....someone approved my NEXUS renewal in the system and two minutes later...revoked my status. I read this as "I didn't have grounds to deny the renewal, but in my authority as a border agent I revoked it later."

The case is currently with my US Senator who is following up, along with the CBP Trusted Traveler Ombudsman. Per the letter of the regulations I followed them exactly, and backed that up in writing when requested. We'll see where this goes, but in the meantime (and $85 later) at least I have TSA PreCheck for the time being....

We'll see how my first non-Global Entry immigration experience goes in two weeks on my next work trip...
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 1:31 am
  #109  
 
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You've been unlucky with fish on planes a few times, huh?! :S.

Thanks for an outstanding trip report - looks like despite getting hit by a car, food borne illness and an uneducated CBP agent, you had a great trip.
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 7:24 am
  #110  
 
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Interesting experience regarding the Cuba issue. My GE is up for renewal in June, so not looking forward to having to fight with them if I have to.
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 8:05 am
  #111  
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Originally Posted by ChiefNWA
Interesting experience regarding the Cuba issue. My GE is up for renewal in June, so not looking forward to having to fight with them if I have to.
One piece of advice I've been given since (when I asked if maybe not listing it would have been better) is to be honest on the application and fight if you need to. Omitting it from the application would definitely be grounds for denial.
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 1:52 pm
  #112  
 
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Thanks for an amazing trip report - as usual.
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 5:44 pm
  #113  
 
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Excellent report as always! The timing is great since i'm going to be taking the Allegro soon and staying at the Radisson Blu Plaza. I'm going to cross Cuba off my list inasmuch as I am going to have to renew my GE next year and don't want to deal with any hassle.
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 7:37 pm
  #114  
 
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Thanks for the great TR!

Yes often plenty of room on the Allegro train, the rail services between Russia and Finland have also been hit by the weak ruble and the sanctions, though now the passenger numbers are getting better slowly.

The majority of the people crossing the border are middle class Russians from the St Petersburg district, typically crossing the border by cars and buses. Perhaps surprisingly, these visitors typically come to Finland to buy food and other consumer goods but the Russian sanctions on EU products hit the private shoppers too.

We have even seen serious cheese smuggling at the border This guy tried to hide 100 kilos of Finnish cheese in his minibus:

http://metro.co.uk/2017/08/10/smuggl...heese-6843761/

Last edited by Andaman; Oct 13, 2017 at 2:12 am
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Old Oct 12, 2017, 8:19 pm
  #115  
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Originally Posted by gpeso8
I'm going to cross Cuba off my list inasmuch as I am going to have to renew my GE next year and don't want to deal with any hassle.
My experience says this is a very wise idea

Originally Posted by Andaman
We have even seen serious cheese smuggling at the border This guy tried to hide 100 kilos of Finnish cheese in his minibus
Wow - who knew! Thanks for the info...I find I often learn just as much posting one of these TRs as I did on the actual trip!
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Old Oct 13, 2017, 10:13 pm
  #116  
 
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Sorry, comments made about wrong country.

Last edited by LarryM1; Oct 13, 2017 at 10:21 pm Reason: Quoting just the relevant part ...
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