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Old Feb 2, 2004 | 3:13 pm
  #1  
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The Gallic Shrug

The Gallic Shrug

BahrainLad’s younger brother has from birth been a tougher, rougher and altogether more sportingly inclined version of him. In fact, I was always referred to as “the sensitive one” whilst my brother was considered “the bruiser”.

In any case, as a result of his early propensity to fall off bikes, into swimming pools, out of windows and run into walls he’s reached the dizzy heights of the England under-19 Rugby squad – the running game.

So, in an effort to provide fraternal support I investigated the possibility of going to watch him play against France in Salon de Provence over last weekend.

Easier said than done. Where exactly is Salon de Provence? An quick perusal of the excellent http://www.viamichelin.com gave the information that it was approximately 40 minutes up the autoroute from Marseilles. So between myself and the parents, we decided to make Marseilles city centre the base of the weekend’s jaunt.

But how to get there? The joys of ID travel mean that nothing is certain, especially trying to get to the Continent from a UK regional airport on a Friday afternoon. I saw 3 options – SN Brussels from Newcastle to Marseilles via Brussels on the Friday afternoon, Air France via Paris (also on Friday) and British Airways via London Gatwick very early on Saturday morning. The Seat Availability Tool was a great help here, although in the end all of the flights seemed to be “full-ish”, which in past experience can change to “overbooked” at the very last moment with no trouble. I made the decision to try SN Brussels. Two main reasons, they fly a larger aircraft out of Newcastle and they give you free Neuhaus chocolates……

(However, I got tickets issued for all my options detailed above, more on that later!)

SN Brussels Airlines
Newcastle-Brussels
Dep. 1630 Arr. 1900
Avro RJ100
4D

Newcastle Airport is undergoing some fairly hefty airside redevelopment at the moment (to be completed in time for the summer season) but the landside/check-in area remains much as it was. The Servisair handling staff are efficient and the queue moved quickly. I noticed that “conventional” check-in for British Airways is now reffered to as “Assisted Check In”, their focus now being on Self-Service Kiosks, of which there are three at Newcastle. Not such technology for SN Brussels, still very much the conventional format. But at least you get to talk to a real person, and when there’s the inevitable query about a staff ticket the ability to explain/reason is invaluable. Also a human being can do clever things like give you the aisle seat on the first row of Economy when you’ve a tight connection and another flight to check-in for (through check-in being an alien concept when you’re travelling ID.)

After completing formalities I went upstairs to clear security and get into the airside area. Even though a massive amount of construction is going on, there’s not much disruption (apart from lots of walls blocked off with white boards). Burger King, WHSmith and Bar des Voyageurs have now opened to go with the existing Duty Free shop, and I’m told they’re only about 25% of their way through the works.

Got a copy of WIRED in Smiths (only later realising the issue was almost obsolete, kind of annoying after paying Ł3.95) and hit the bar, having a Corona whilst calling some mates.

Now, I don’t know about the rest of you, but I never take any notice of boarding announcements. Especially at terminals where I know there’s a holding facility at the gate and they want to drag me away from the shops (and more importantly, watering holes!). So, I wandered down to Gate 3 at about 1610, plenty of time for a 1630 departure. After a bit of confusion (during which I almost boarded the delayed Easyjet flight to god-knows-where), and hearing the dreaded “would the last n passengers for Brussels please proceed immediately…..” I arrived at a deserted gate area. Last. And the bus had just left. So I cooled my heels for a bit and chatted sheepishly to the dispatcher (who was the kind soul on the desk when I checked-in)…”I never usually do this you know….” etcetera.

So I boarded the bus (1 passenger) and got to the aircraft. Aha! A British machine no less! Avro RJ100s and Concorde, Britain’s contribution to late 20th century aviation. A comfortable machine in my experience, configured 2-3 for SN rather than the dreaded 3-3 of British Airways.

The usual boarding stuff went on, including the announcements in English, French and Flemish. Always wonder if they get paid extra because of all the languages… A good touch was the complimentary copies of the WSJ Europe, Le Soir and De Standaard distributed to all pax.

After take-off the drinks service started with tea, coffee and a full bar. A Stella Artois followed, together with a cheese roll (choice of 2, tuna being the other selection). And another cheese roll on the second round, followed by the obligatory Neuhaus, of which we were exhorted to take as many as we wanted.

No delays into Brussels and a short taxi to the stand outside the new A pier. Which then meant a bus over to the B gates as the UK persistently refuses to join Schengen (as if our current controls work effectively!). A quick-ish check-in at the SN service desk (“Why won’t our computer accept a British Airways onload priority……We’re British, we’re always difficult”) and then it was off through security towards the A gates and A61.

SN Brussels Airlines
Brussels – Marseilles
Dep. 2000 Arr. 2140
Bae 146-200
12C

Rather than wait in the seating area, I took up position at the bar located conveniently opposite A61. A cool Leffe Blanc and more phone calls (some to relatives living in Belgium) later I received a text message from my little bro: just arrived in Marseilles, came from Birmingham via Frankfurt, just seen Mum and Dad (who’d flown direct from Gatwick), Lufthansa seem to have lost the kit. We were certainly attacking MRS from all angles this evening!

Boarding was fine, had the seat next to me free so moved and sat on the window. No delays in push-back or taxi out, and a fighter-style takeoff with a sudden right bank to comply with Brussels’ strict noise abatement.

More Stella, sandwiches (Egg and Bacon this time) and chocolate followed as we made our way across France with my iPod singing merrily into my ears. Musical selection? Hed Kandi World Series 1, the Disco Heaven Mix (http://www.hedkandi.com).

After a bit of inclement wx on the way we began our descent into MRS. Got to the gate, didn’t have to wait for bags (didn’t have any) and met the ‘rentals.

England lost the match, the brother didn’t get off the bench and the weather was shocking. But a couple of lovely restaurants were found in Marseilles and Salon de Provence and a good time was had by all. But as the weather began to clear up it was time to leave….

I’d taken the exec. decision earlier to go back via Paris, it was at the same time as both the parent’s and the brother’s flight and would get me back to Newcastle much earlier in time to prepare for the week ahead. However, the best laid plans…….

Air France
Marseilles – Paris CDG
Dep. 1305 (1340) Arr. 1435 (1505)
Airbus A321
19A

As you can see from the timings above, this flight had a bit of a delay. After bidding farewell to the rest of the clan, off to London and Frankfurt, I made my way to the Hall 4 section of MRS. And sat and waited, and waited, and waited. We eventually got off 35 mins late. The flight itself was fine, but it’s never particularly enjoyable when you’re sweating a connection that you haven’t even checked in for! I had no idea which section of T2 at CDG we were arriving at, nor the Newcastle flight departing from. I was going to have to run…….

After trundling around CDG’s taxiways for what seemed like an eternity, we arrived at 2F. I ran as fast as I could, but I was too late. “Ze flight ‘as already left, m’sieur”. I’d missed it by 5 minutes. However, there then was a development – there was a 2020 flight that evening that I didn’t know existed. But it only had 2 seats left to book which in my book is not worth risking.

I decided to offload myself. Now, I was about to employ the BahrainLad-Lateral-Thinking-Option. What was to stop me hopping on the TGV, thundering up to Brussels, getting to National-Zavantem in time for a gloriously empty SN RJ85 departing for Newcastle at again, 2020? Answer: nothing (bar a couple of €). (and in the standby game, the bigger the aircraft, the better…AF only operate an ERJ-145).

THALYS
Paris CDG TGV – Brussels Midi/Zuid
Dep. 1558 Arr. 1714 (1708).
GEC-Alsthom PBKA TGV Trainset (Paris, Brussels, Koln, Amsterdam)
Car 6 / Seat 71
(this service even has an AF flight number).

A new experience for me: long distance high-speed European train travel. I’ve been on Eurostar a couple of times, but it’s always been (up until Sep ’03) crippled on the English side.

Paris CDG really is a model of successful, long-term planned, rail-air integration. The TGV station is in the centre of the complex and contains numerous facilities for purchasing tickets. After not being able to get a young-person’s ticket issued, I went to the ticket office where I found out why: none available on the 1558 service. However, €60 isn’t bad when you consider the late-notice (20 mins before departure) and the distances involved.

The train arrived exactly on time and left exactly on time. Being from a country that counts “on time” as being “within 10 minutes of timetable” this was a bit of a novelty. And it was also to be a recurring theme.

The seat was extremely comfortable, and pretty soon we were heading north out of CDG. And the speed keeps building and building right up until 186 miles per hour. The train then sat at that speed all the way to the southern approaches to Brussels. Northern France, scene of so much horror and hurt, passed by effortlessly. Bridges, tunnels, motorways, factories, houses, cars all sped past to the backing sounds of blissful house music. Quite a sight.

After snaking our way throught the Brussels suburbs of Forest and Lot, we arrived at Midi station 6 minutes early. A superb journey. Midi has become the hub of European rail travel and the departure boards are getting quite exotic (you can imagine yourself on a cloak and dagger MI6-style mission, boarding a train on a smoky platform for some far-flung corner of the EU empire….)

But for me it was the distinctly less glamorous “Airport Express” to Zavantem. This is really just a suburban train with no special facilities for its airport role. But slightly cheaper than the HeX at €2,60 rather than Ł12!

SN Brussels Airlines
Brussels – Newcastle
Dep 2020 Ar. 2040
Avro RJ85
12F

I was massively early for this flight having checked in at about 1745, so true to form I hit the bar via the Duty Free shops (Port, Cheese, Beer, Cigarrettes). Passed the time reading through the Hutton, sorry Whitewash, reports in the UK Sunday’s.

Not much to say about this flight, the usual excellent service, the iPod battery finally died on me and the landing was a bit windy.

So, the Gallic Shrug ends with a bit of a whimper. But an enjoyable trip and I’m getting ready to do it all over again (although to Berlin this time) in a couple of weeks.

Hope you enjoyed.

BahrainLad is offline  
Old Feb 2, 2004 | 5:05 pm
  #2  
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thanks for the report on SN -- such reports are rare on FT. I flew them THF-BRU last month and was pleasantly surprised... I'd definitely fly them again.
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Old Feb 2, 2004 | 8:38 pm
  #3  
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Excellent report BahrainLad - good story, great writing style and nice dry humour. Now, I must look up that Hed Kandi mix...
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 8:34 am
  #4  
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Great report

really enjoy the writing style (bit at Midi about MI6 missions ) and the spontaneous trip to Brussels from Paris.

Last summer I was going to follow fbgdavidson jr. when he was rwing for GB in the Coupe de la Jeunesse in Belgium, alas he got injured

I look forward to the upcoming report
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:41 am
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Nice report, pleasant reading. Sorry England lost. Next time!

One has to love the Euro service on SN. I flew them as Sabena and lot's of food on a short flight. Don't even mention languages. Mixed with German to FRA it all sounded the same as one garbled announcement.

However, I will take Godiva over Neuhaus anytime, any place.

How is the new Schengen terminal at BRU? I have yet to see that. I hear it is nice but alot of walking.

As for Schengen, please, keep the UK (and Ireland) out of that dam/ thing. It is a complete loss to sovereignty and I could have had a heart attack when I learned that Greece had joined. Yeah, they could do better at patroling the borders, sea coasts but atleast you have some protection.

As for Air France, love them in the air, but on the ground they are a basketcase.

Why it is called Air Chance.
Nearly lost it in November non-revving on them. You have to love it(NOT) when they have 20 empty jetbridges at CDG and you are boarding by bus and stairs in the rain.
What are they thinking?

I was hoping to hear about Bahrain in the trip, but all good.

Oh, and tell Thalys, a great service, to maybe go all the way to Zaventem Airport, then that would be splendid. Going thru Midi, keep it.

------------------
YAS+
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 6:13 am
  #6  
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Thanks for the comments. Glad you enjoyed reading it. I certainly enjoyed the trip.

Fraser, the upcoming report may be delayed a bit....I'm trying to find a spare weekend in my so hectic life. Slam/Funk d'Void and Groove Armada this weekend, friends over from Ireland the following, Hed Kandi and Carl Cox the weekend after, then moving house the weekend after that......so I should be able to get away mid-March.

Just before I go to Hong Kong for a couple of days mid-April!

(And the Berlin trip looks to be out via Dusseldorf on Lufthansa and back via Amsterdam on KLM based on timings/loads...should be some interesting reading for our friends across the pond).

Thanks for your trip reports.....prompting some fond memories of when one has been up the sharp end!

Interflug a couple of answers/comments for you. I agree the staff sometimes get confused with the languages on SN BRU, case in point when we landed at Newcastle the English announcement said "On behalf of SN Brussels and our codeshare partner American Airlines", the French changed it to "American Airways" and finally the Flemish got it right with "British Airways".

But I have my own theories on the Flemish-Walloon "conflict". The two component parts of Belgium act on their own, and as a consequence Brussels has become a city-state in its own right in between them. Coupled with the large influx of EU bureaucrats it has made the city an enticing entrepot of language and culture. I have also noticed that most of the inhabitants speak excellent English (and a lot of the adverts/signage in BRU is in English only).

Hmmm....a rehash of the age-old Neuhaus-Godiva debate. One's uncle has previously been in the employ of both companies, and therefore early childhood Christmases in their delightful town-house in Brussels were spent "evaluating" samples of new chocs. So I feel well suited to a decision: Neuhaus. Godiva are more mainstream, more "American" and quite a bit cheaper (and if you're going to spend a small fortune on chocolates, you might as well spend a large fortune....!)

The new A pier in BRU is very nice, big new shopping area in the "Topaz" and a good selection of bars, shops spread down its enormous length (but travelators ease the walking). Only problem is that the SN Avros look a bit pathetic parked up against something so large!

As for Thalys, it's very wierd and I think there may be a hint of politics here. You can get a train Paris CDG - Brussels Midi. You can also get a train Brussels Airport - Paris Nord (albeit only 1x day). But no direct Airport-Airport service.

Maybe I'll tell you about Bahrain some other time.....but it could take a while!

(You may be able to gather that I like Brussels quite a bit....very interesting city, food as good as Paris, great beer, cheap and if you're into Techno...Fuse can't be beat!)
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 6:43 am
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Why dont decent DJs ever come to Southampton? I guess I could sum that up in one word....Southampton

Hope you have a safe move, and a good few nights out as well safe trips to HKG and Berlin
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:03 pm
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Cheers. I love and agree with all the comments, save of the course the GODIVA/Newhaus one.

Godiva is Heavenly. Neuhaus is alright and my sister in law loved them when I brought some back from Belgium. Again, Godiva is Heavenly. If I had Godiva in front of me all the time I would be in serious trouble.


As for Belgium. A few years ago we stayed by CDG. Had to go into Paris Gare du Nord, which I didn't mind, I love train stations as well, but not as much as airports. Took the Thalys to Midi, then the local train out to Zaventem and played.

I love how English is just not a problem in BRU wheras in Paris, it can be. One person speaks English well and another not at all, same in Germany.

I do appreciate how so many signs in BRU are in English and it is more int'l. Why they chose BRU for their capital.
Too much French pride a few miles to the South.

Will have to check out the new pier.

As for techno, I love it. I discovered Techno on a mileage run to Frankfurt which apart from Ibitha(Ibiza), may be the world's techno capital. Techno just isn't as popular over here. One more thing I enjoy while in Europe, apart from the women, better food,and more fun airports, and no TSA!!!

------------------
YAS+
InterflugIL62 is offline  


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