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Day 1. Outside Terminal 2 at Dubai International Airport at 1am for my early morning flight to Asmara, the capital of Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...WcF/0/O/01.jpg And through to the Marharba lounge after passing through immigration and security. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...wvX/0/O/02.jpg This morning's fight was a simple direct flight on Flydubai (FZ) from Dubai (DXB) to Asmara (ASM). With it's relative close proximity to Dubai I had been wanting to visit Eritrea for quite a while. A few years ago when I was looking at ways to get there, there was only the choice of flying via Cairo on EgyptAir (MS) for ~$1000, or on infrequent direct flights on Eritrean Airlines (B8) for ~$600. In 2014 both Turkish Airlines (TK) and Qatar Airways (QR) started up flights to Asmara for ~$600 from Dubai. Then Flydubai (FZ) started flying to Asmara and I managed to get a return ticket for $220 during one of their frequent sales. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...DCk/1/O/03.gif Waiting at the gates before boarding the bus to the plane. I had managed to get a few hours sleep at home prior so wasn't too tired despite the very early hour. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...KP8/0/O/04.jpg And boarding our flight just after 3am. The flight was mostly Eritreans and a handful of Italians. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...82K/0/O/05.jpg |
The Captain going through his pre-flight paperwork in the cockpit. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...RQD/0/O/06.jpg Luckily the flight was only ~50% full and I managed to find an empty row of seats at the rear soon after take-off to catch a few winks on the 3.5 hour flight to Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BWj/0/O/07.jpg Approaching Jeddah 2 hours into the flight before turning south to avoid Yemeni airspace. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...wfx/0/O/08.jpg Flying over the Eritrean highlands as we descend into Asmara as dawn breaks. Asmara is situated at an elevation of 2,325 metres (7,628 ft). Eritrea would also be my 100th country visited and my 27th and halfway to all 54 countries in Africa. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...jDJ/0/O/09.jpg After catching the bus to the airport terminal I headed to the visa office with my approval letter, filled out an arrival form and handed over $70 for my visa on arrival. A visa for Eritrea can be notoriously difficult to get and another traveller, Chris Guillebeau, had been stumped in his attempt to visit every country in the world and was immediately deported after pleading for a visa at the very same visa office after arriving on a flight from Cairo back in 2012. I was slightly paranoid and nervous that there would be some kind of hiccup, but luckily everything went smoothly however and had my visa in hand after a 20 minute wait. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...sh5/0/O/10.jpg I then headed through to meet up with Dr. Kahsai, the owner/manager of Damera Tours, whom I had been corresponding with to organise my trip and visa. My three day/four night tour cost 590 euro's and included hotels, car and guide for Asmara and to Keren and Massawa, airport pickup/dropoff and my visa on arrival pre-approval. Based on my memorable experience in Eritrea I can definitely recommend Damera Tours for others too. After being introduced to Mehritab, my guide and driver for the next three days, we drove into Asmara to the Sunshine Hotel. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...KCm/0/O/11.jpg |
After checking me in, Mehritab said he was off to get our travel permit, required for all tourists outside of Asmara, to Keren and Massawa and would be back in 2 hours. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...pkt/0/O/12.jpg The view from my balcony onto the street below. After a bit of a rest and a quick shower, I headed downstairs to the hotel restaurant to have some breakfast. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...WRk/0/O/13.jpg A delightful cappuccino to start. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...FfS/0/O/14.jpg Followed by a tasty omelette, toast and orange juice. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...wQK/0/O/15.jpg |
I then headed out with my camera for a bit of a walk. Wrought Iron. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...sH6/0/O/16.jpg Shop. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...3LG/0/O/17.jpg Dubai. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...s7t/0/O/18.jpg Crossing. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...f4J/0/O/19.jpg Kids. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...hpx/0/O/20.jpg |
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After walking back to the hotel, I met up with Mehritab again, who now had my travel permit now in hand. We then went for the short drive to the Fiat Tagliero Building. Designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi and completed in 1938, the building resembles an aeroplane with a pair of 30m cantilevered wings. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...p7H/0/O/24.jpg Local authorities at the time insisted that the wings be supported by pillars, but luckily they were eventually removed and the wings held, just as they are today. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Qg7/0/O/25.jpg The nearby Irga Garage building, constructed in 1961 and designed by Carlo Mazzetti. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...ppg/0/O/26.jpg |
Mussolini had inherited the Italian colony of Eritrea from the European “scramble for Africa” that began in the 1890's. Asmara became the centre for Mussolini's new Roman Empire and called the city “La Piccola Roma” – Africa’s little Rome. Mussolini encouraged Italian architects and engineers to transform Asmara into an urban utopia, full of cinemas, cafés, bicycles and sycamore trees. Unrestrained by European norms, Italian architects turned Asmara into an unlikely playground for futurist architecture. The distinctive "Bar Zilli" which imitates a wireless radio set with windows like tuning knobs. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...kDz/0/O/27.jpg Cinema Roma on Martyrs Avenue, built in 1937. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...k6v/0/O/28.jpg The lively café inside. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...4HC/0/O/29.jpg The original projector. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...r6M/0/O/30.jpg A young couple enjoying some conversation with photos of classic Hollywood stars on the walls behind. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2mM/0/O/31.jpg The original 1930's interior made for a beautiful place to enjoy an espresso or capuccino. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...cwc/0/O/32.jpg |
Mussolini's grand plans for an African empire with Asmara as the capital crumbled with World War II. British forces overran the Italians and Asmara's architectural experiment came to an end. Asmara is now one of the world's major centres for Art Deco with around 400 buildings constructed during the years of Italian colonial rule. The Asmara Opera Building, designed by Odoardo Cavagnari and built in 1918. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...nMF/0/O/33.jpg Like Cinema Roma, there was a café in the foyer. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...S9r/0/O/34.jpg We then walked down the palm tree lined Martyrs Avenue. Asmara is often touted as the most beautiful city in Africa and from my short stroll so far I could definitely see why. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Ljk/0/O/35.jpg |
The former Fascist Party headquarters, with a facade shaped like a giant 'F', and now houses Eritrea's Education Ministry. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...XGQ/0/O/36.jpg Asmara has also been likened to Havana, another city whose architectural style that has also stood relatively still since the 1959 Cuban revolution. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...hHh/0/O/37.jpg St. Joseph's Cathedral, built in 1922 by the colonial authorities. An estimated 50% of Eritreans are Christian. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BDp/0/O/38.jpg The stylish Cinema Impero, designed by architect Mario Messin and built in 1937, it is considered to be one of the world's finest examples of Art Déco style architecture. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Sws/0/O/39.jpg |
At about 11am we headed to the café La Dolce Vita for morning coffee with Dr. Kahsai. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...z3K/0/O/40.jpg Dr. Kahsai is a former pilot, and part of his business is organising foreign aircraft mechanics to fix and maintain Eritrean helicopters and planes. He said when he has a tourist coming, he puts their visa application in with the mechanics, and hence my visa only took just over 2 weeks to approve, versus the typical 6+ weeks for others. It was also November 10th and less than 24 hours since billionaire and former reality TV star Donald Trump had been elected as the leader of the free world, so we had some very interesting conversation over cappuccinos and croissants. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BfF/0/O/41.jpg Myself and Mehritab then continued the tour of Asmara. The Art Déco styled (and currently dry) Mai Jah Jah Fountain. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BQc/0/O/42.jpg A statue of Alexander Pushkin, considered to be the greatest Russian poet and the founder of modern Russian literature. Pushkin was also one-eighth Eritrean. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...63k/0/O/43.jpg The old Italian-era markets. Italy actively encouraged emigration to Eritrea and by 1939 over half of Asmara’s population was Italian. During the Italian colonisation, racial segregation laws forbid native Eritreans from entering this part of Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...5gP/0/O/44.jpg |
Coffee beans. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...NKS/0/O/45.jpg Indoor markets which were originally off limits to Eritreans during the Italian colonial era. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...6nL/0/O/46.jpg We then continued our walk through the city centre. Italians in Eritrea began to move away after the defeat by the Allies during World War II, and by 1949 Asmara had only 17,183 Italian Eritreans remaining. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2jc/0/O/47.jpg The Great Mosque of Asmara, built by the Italians in 1938 on the initiative of Benito Mussolini to impress the Muslim population, who make up 48% of Eritrea's population. Designed by Gudo Ferrazza, the mosque is a blend of both Italan and Islamic architectural styles. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...7nK/0/O/48.jpg |
A pair of old Fiat's on the street. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...x7G/0/O/49.jpg A public bus, originally from Milan, with the logo of Azienda Trasporti Milanesi (ATM) on its side. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...9xT/0/O/50.jpg The very grand and colourful Enda Mariam Coptic Cathedral, built in 1938. Above the two wooden doors are mosaic's showing religious scenes by the Italian painter Nenne Sanguineti Poggi. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...QcB/0/O/51.jpg A small two door Italian car. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Mq5/0/O/52.jpg |
Religious books and trinkets. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...mL7/0/O/53.jpg Bananas. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...7nN/0/O/54.jpg Vegetables. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...WwP/0/O/55.jpg Shoe repair. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...9MK/0/O/56.jpg Horse & Cart. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...qx7/0/O/57.jpg Bus queue. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...jBZ/0/O/58.jpg Grains. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2ST/0/O/59.jpg Samples. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...f3H/0/O/60.jpg |
At a mill where the locals would take their newly purchased grain to be turned into flour. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...5JK/0/O/61.jpg Rail. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...7kd/0/O/62.jpg Poultry. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...RWX/0/O/63.jpg Traditional Eritrean dresses. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...t3Z/0/O/64.jpg Volkswagen. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...qSH/0/O/65.jpg Shop. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...zJH/0/O/66.jpg At about 1pm we went to pick up Mehritab's son from school. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...3gD/0/O/67.jpg His son eagerly giving me a tour through his school! The main language of instruction at the school was Italian and alot of the teachers were from Italy. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Gfh/0/O/68.jpg A map of Africa and Italy side by side. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...tJV/0/O/69.jpg The kids piling onto the buses for the ride home. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...bGk/0/O/70.jpg At Mehritab's house with Donald Trump's surprise election as President of the United States dominating the news on the BBC. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...H5P/0/O/71.jpg We then went back into the city to a local restaurant and had some injera bread, a national dish in Eritrea and Ethiopia, along with some spicy fish stew and salad. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...KJb/0/O/72.jpg I also exchanged some US dollars for Eritrean nakfa. The official (and pegged) exchange rate is about 15 Nakfa to the US dollar, although the black market rate is quite a bit more. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...VKV/0/O/73.jpg Our next and final stop before heading to Keren was Medeber metal workshop and market. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Nd3/0/O/74.jpg At the market scrap metal is recycled and transformed into new objects. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...7LJ/0/O/75.jpg Mehritab said that the government had exempt the markets from any taxation to encourage the recycling of the scrap into new uses. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...djb/0/O/76.jpg And a very photogenic gentleman who kindly obliged when I asked to take his portrait. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...sBz/0/O/77.jpg At about 3pm we then begun the drive north out of Asmara to Keren, the second-largest city in Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...SkF/0/O/78.jpg The plan for the next three days was to head to Keren for one night, then return to Asmara before driving east to the port city of Massawa, before returning to Asmara the following day. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...cRR/0/O/79.jpg A mural on the side of the road, paying tribute to the Eritrean women who fought during the Eritrean War of Independence. Up to 30% of the Eritrean fighters in the war were women. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...mLb/0/O/80.jpg Crops in the valley below as we continued the drive north-west. During the war, massive numbers of trees were cut down by the Ethiopians, both for fuel and to reduce cover for the guerilla independence fighters. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...QF9/0/O/81.jpg A monument to the fighters killed during the 30 year war for independence from Ethiopia. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...sbC/0/O/82.jpg After the British conquered the Italians in Eritrea during World War II, Eritrea was made a British protectorate until 1951. Then in 1952, the UN decided to federate Eritrea to Ethiopia, hoping to reconcile Ethiopian claims of sovereignty and Eritrean aspirations for independence. In 1961 however, Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie dissolved the federation and annexed Eritrea, triggering the 30 year Eritrean War of Independence. Stopping to admire the picturesque and very photogenic landscape. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2qq/0/O/83.jpg A car and a bus making the journey back to Asmara from Keren. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...PRD/0/O/84.jpg An Ethiopian T-62 tank down a gulley beside the road. In the 1970's Ethiopia came under the influence of the Soviet Union after Emperor Haile Selassie was ousted in a coup by a Marxist military junta, and thereafter received significant Soviet support and supplies to battle the Eritrean People's Liberation Front during the Eritrean War of Independence. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...fF7/0/O/85.jpg Traditional huts in a small Eritrean village. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...XLF/0/O/86.jpg And on the outskirts of Keren just before 6pm with the sun now well below the horizon. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...qGb/0/O/87.jpg After handing over the necessary travel permit (as required for all tourists) at a checkpoint at the entrance to the city, we headed to the Keren Hotel for our one night stay. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...D68/0/O/88.jpg The hotel had a roof top bar where we grabbed a bottle of Asmara beer each to relax after the long but eventful day. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...FqG/0/O/89.jpg Looking down on the street below. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...SVm/0/O/90.jpg The town was largely without power due to a black out so the only lights were from cars and buildings with generators. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...B6t/0/O/91.jpg Out for a walk in the (very dark) evening to find some dinner. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...9L6/0/O/92.jpg Where myself and Mehritab shared some injera again at Restaurant Fickri & Selam, this time with goat. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...f5V/0/O/93.jpg And back to the hotel just after 9pm at the end of a great first day in Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...9jJ/0/O/94.jpg http://www.dsw-photo.com/Other/ACAF/.../0/O/Part2.png |
Day 2. Outside the Keren Hotel just after 6am on the morning of day 2. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Bhz/0/O/95.jpg And enjoying an early morning run to work off all the tasty food from the day before. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...bRn/0/O/96.jpg Looking across Keren from the hotel. Keren was important to both the Italian and the British forces during World War II as the road and railway through the city were the main route to the capital Asmara and to the Red Sea port of Massawa. Keren is also surrounded by steep granite mountains and sharp ridges which also enhanced its defensive strategic importance. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...XDw/0/O/97.jpg After a quick shower back at the hotel, I met up with Mehritab at 7:30am and we went to a local café for a traditional Eritrean breakfast of fuul (sauteed and mashed fava beans) served with onions, tomatoes, jalapeńos, cumin, bread and olive oil. Quite tasty and was a good start to the day. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...dsZ/0/O/98.jpg After the filling breakfast we went for a walk through the local markets. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...pVH/0/O/99.jpg Traditional/ceremonial Eritrean canes for sale. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...bB/0/O/100.jpg Monday is the main market day and the best time to witness the visit the bustling markets, but today (Saturday) was a little quieter. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...WS/0/O/101.jpg We then walked to the Italian War cemetery. From February 5th to April 1st, 1941, both Italian and British forces fought during the Battle of Keren. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Gm/0/O/102.jpg A gravestone of an Italian soldier on the left side of the cemetery. The Italians were supported by the Eritrean Ascari, the indigenous soldiers from Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Dk/0/O/103.jpg On the right side of the cemetery were the graves of Eritrean soldiers who fought with the Italians. During the Battle of Keren an estimated 3,000 Italian soldiers and 9,000 Eritrean Ascari were killed. The Eritrean soldiers were not issued with identification however and were buried in graves all eerily marked 'Ignato' (unknown).. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...p6/0/O/104.jpg |
We then walked back into town. Another mural for the War of Independence. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...9X/0/O/105.jpg A former colonial Italian school and now an Eritrean Education Ministry building. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Hv/0/O/106.jpg The former 1930's Keren Railway Station. The train tracks had long gone and the building now functions as the main bus station. Mehritab had said that Italian tourists he had taken to Keren previously had noted that the train station was identical in design to small town train stations back in Italy. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...QN/0/O/107.jpg Cheren, the Italian name for Keren as there is no 'K' in the Italian language. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...J7/0/O/108.jpg We then went for a 2 kilometre drive out of the city to the Shrine of St. Mariam Dearit, a statue of the Virgin Mary that resides inside a trunk of a 500 year old baobab tree. On May 29th of every year tens of thousands of Eritreans make a pilgrimage to the Shrine. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...cZ/0/O/109.jpg We then drove to the British War Cemetery, where Commonwealth soldiers killed during the Battle of Keren are buried. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...rn/0/O/110.jpg The gravestone of an Army Officer from New Zealand. The British and their supporting forces lost 536 soldiers during the battle. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...z5/0/O/111.jpg Back in Keren again, an Italian villa formerly owned by the Italian businessman, Ditta G De Ponti. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...p6/0/O/112.jpg After the interesting morning in Keren, we headed back to the hotel at about 11am, packed my bags and then began the journey back to Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...pD/0/O/113.jpg Kids playing on another Ethiopian tank left over from the Independence War in a village on the road to Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Lk/0/O/114.jpg Stopping again to take in the rugged and very beautiful landscape. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...cr/0/O/115.jpg About 50 kilometres out from Asmara we stopped at a small village to visit a local family. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...5f/0/O/116.jpg Some of the kids who were excited to see a visitor with an unfamiliar face. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...hJ/0/O/117.jpg A traditional wood-fired earthen stove and oven. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Pk/0/O/118.jpg The one room house where Mehritab translated while we had a bit of a chat. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...gm/0/O/119.jpg Our next stop was a local livestock where sheep, goats and cattle were all for sale. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...SG/0/O/120.jpg We got back into Asmara just after 1pm. Mehritab dropped me off in town to grab some lunch while he went to see his family. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...pd/0/O/121.jpg At the Spaghetti & Pizza House where they had a wood-fired oven cooking some seriously tasty pizza. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...6N/0/O/122.jpg I opted for the spicy Africana pizza, laced with some very hot chilli's! http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...dC/0/O/123.jpg At about 2:30pm Mehritab picked me up again for the ride to Massawa. Stopping just outside of Asmara to see the recently renovated train track. Due to the steepness, the track has to make several switch-backs as it descends the mountainous terrain. The steam train currently only runs for a short distance at the moment for tourists who can hire the train by the hour. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...nG/0/O/124.jpg And some more of the picturesque scenery. Asmara is at an elevation of 2,325 metres so there is a considerable descent on the 113 kilometre drive to the coastal city of Massawa. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...CL/0/O/125.jpg A photo of Mehritab with the imposing view in the background. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...N6/0/O/126.jpg Stopping for a drink (Sprite and Coke in Ethiopic/Eritrean Ge'ez script) at a road side stop ~ 40 kilometres out from Massawa. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...29/0/O/127.jpg Just before Massawa was a bridge built by the Italians (and recently renovated by the Japanese) that was dedicated to General Menabrea, the 7th Prime Minister of Italy, and bears the inscription 'Ca Custa Lon Ca Custa' (whatever it takes). Also on the distant side is some camels grazing beside the road. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...FC/0/O/128.jpg An old rail bridge across a dry river bed heading into Massawa. The rail bridge is also featured on the Eritrean 10 nakfa note. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...vM/0/O/129.jpg We got into Massawa just after 5pm and headed over the causeway to Taulud island. War Memorial Square to commemorate the Eritrean War of Independence. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...GV/0/O/130.jpg We then drove onto the island of the Old City. It was a mixture of Ottoman and Italian architecture. The old Italian Commercial bank, now in ruins from the war. Unlike Asmara, Massawa was subject to heavy aerial bombardment by the Ethiopians, including napalm and cluster bombs. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2r/0/O/131.jpg Mehritab then dropped me off at my hotel for the night, the Grand Dahlak Hotel. Situated on Taulud island, it was quite a large complex wth 400+ rooms but I never saw another guest while I was there. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...sf/0/O/132.jpg In the evening we headed to the nearby Luna Hotel for dinner. Some more injera with some big, juicy chunks of locally caught fish, very tasty! The chef was a little surprised with an European ordering injera, as they apparently just stick to pizza and pasta, but he was glad I really enjoyed it. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...xM/0/O/133.jpg We then went to a seaside café for some sugary lemon tea. We chatted about my travels to interesting and unusual places. Mehritab had also spent 14 years living overseas, first in Italy, then Germany and finally California before returning to Eritrea after it gained independence in 1992. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...QW/0/O/134.jpg Day 3. Sunrise over the hotel pool just after 7am. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BH/0/O/135.jpg After a morning run around the island, I caught up with Mehritab and then headed over the causeway over to the Old City to a local café. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...tb/0/O/136.jpg Omelette and bread. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Jg/0/O/137.jpg Followed by a couple of strong and very tasty espresso's. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...p5/0/O/138.jpg After the decent breakfast we headed to the ruins of the Old Palace. Built in 1872 to 1874 for the Swiss explorer Werner Munzinger. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...gZ/0/O/139.jpg It was later used by the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie as a winter palace. It was unfortunately bombed during the war however. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...LR/0/O/140.jpg After picking up my swimming gear at the hotel, we drove ~10 kilometres north to the Gurgussum Beach Hotel. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...7h/0/O/141.jpg Despite being November the temperature was still quite warm. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...vR/0/O/142.jpg And taking a refreshing dip in the waters of the Red Sea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2P/0/O/143.jpg Mehritab said it was quite common for people from Asmara to come down for a weekend at the beach. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...nV/0/O/144.jpg And enjoying a cool Fanta. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...XT/0/O/145.jpg Playing football on the beach. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...GV/0/O/146.jpg And some sea-shell necklaces I bought for 100 nafa to take home for Rianda. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...fd/0/O/147.jpg After a relaxing few hours at the beach, we headed back to the hotel to check out and then begin the drive back to Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...2P/0/O/148.jpg The remains of an old Italian mineral water bottling plant. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...NK/0/O/149.jpg A couple of gentleman in local dress who gracefuly allowed me to take their photograph. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...j6/0/O/150.jpg For lunch we stopped at a little café/pension in the town of Ghinda. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...zX/0/O/151.jpg And had some tasty fuul and bread. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...tH/0/O/152.jpg And some 'burn your mouth' spicy ginger coffee which was quite an experience! http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...XL/0/O/153.jpg Looking down on the town of Nefasit. Near the mountain peak on the upper right is the Monastery of Debre Bizen, founded in the 1350s. It is apparently possible to hike up the monastery, but I decided to leave it until my return visit to Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...Gg/0/O/154.jpg A Hamadryas baboon checking us out on the road close to Asmara. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...HN/0/O/155.jpg We stopped for a coke at a village close to Asmara. The locals were playing Italian billiards. Quite a bit different from normal billiards, and was played with hands instead of pool cues and with small pins that you had to avoid in the centre. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...rn/0/O/156.jpg We got back to Asmara just before 3pm and Mehritab dropped me back at the Sunshine Hotel for my last night in Eritrea. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...pZ/0/O/157.jpg After a shower I went out for a walk and stopped at a local shop to spend some of my last nakfa on some water and a Kitkat. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...KQ/0/O/158.jpg And back at the Fiat Tagliero Building for a few last photographs. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...x3/0/O/159.jpg In the evening, Dr. Kahsai took myself and Mehritab out to a place called Hidmona for some tasty Eritrean cuisine, drink and music. Getting a big glass of sowa, a home-brewed Eritrean beer made from roasted corn, barley and other grain. Not fizzy or frothy like normal beer, but very tasty. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...V8/0/O/160.jpg Followed by a very liberal serving of tibsi, meat cooked in butter and served on injera bread. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...bd/0/O/161.jpg Some Eritrean coffee to finish. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...tM/0/O/162.jpg At about 10pm the dancing started, first with some local ladies twirling their long dresses to the throbbing beat of the live band. Afterwards everyone joined in with plenty of locals as well as some Chinese workers and Russian aircraft mechanics. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...BT/0/O/163.jpg And some Eritrean raki liqueur before heading back to the hotel to get some rest before the early morning flight back home tomorrow. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...SR/0/O/164.jpg Day 4. After a quick shower, I met up with Mehritab just before 5am for the short drive back to the airport. There was minimal street lighting with the limited electricity and it was quite strange to see stars twinkling in the sky above the city. After thanking Mehritab for the great and warm hospitality, I said farewell and went through to check in and was soon airside after passing through immigration and security. http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...dp/0/O/165.jpg And boarding the Flydubai 737 just before 7am for the flight home after an amazing three days in Eritrea! http://www.dsw-photo.com//Photos/ERT...tc/0/O/166.jpg |
Amazing yet again! As always, thank you for sharing your adventures.
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Amazing photos & report as ever! And some looks familiar. :D Keren looks interesting but didn't make it there. Looks like they've fixed the IMPERO sign since I was there.
http://images2.travbuddy.com/1657571_13698399848057.jpg |
Originally Posted by theshaun
(Post 27763032)
Amazing yet again! As always, thank you for sharing your adventures.
Originally Posted by hauteboy
(Post 27763045)
Amazing photos & report as ever! And some looks familiar. :D Keren looks interesting but didn't make it there. Looks like they've fixed the IMPERO sign since I was there.
https://www.tesfanews.net/unesco-rec...s-application/ |
Brings back memories for me.I was in Asmara for a total of 7 weeks a few years ago.We stayed at the Median hotel.Apart from great pizzas there were always tv's in every restaurent showing European football.
Fantastic trip report. |
Daniel, this is a great report! It's incredible how Asmara reminds me of certain boroughs of so many Italian cities built in the 1940s-1950s. Yours are, without a shadow of a doubt, my favourite Flyertalk reports.
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Thanks again DanielW!! I have had a few trips to Eritrea and it is great to hear that more airlines now operate to Asmara.
Did you still have to do the FOREX form that needs to be stamped everytime you change money? And then have to declare every penny when you enter or leave the country? |
Superb report, as usual. After having seen the announcement of your trip to Eritrea I literally checked your website daily to see if it was online already.
I really want to go to Eritrea as well - did you have any problems taking photos? Thanks for your work! |
Thank you for this fantastic report. Especially the picture with locals living a totally normal life makes me wonder why Eritreans are #1 refugees in Switzerland.. (well, I don't wonder, I know why, I wonder why our authorities never actually bother to check the situation there like any regular traveller could)
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Thank you for the great trip report to another country that I know very little about. You always seem to capture interesting and insightful pictures of the countries you visit. I learn so much about these places from your trip reports.
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Wow. Amazing trip report, really motivates me to visit. My grandmother was an Italian born in Asmara, and she spent her early life there up until early teens, when they moved back to Genova. I heard so many stories growing up, and she was always disappointed that she couldn't go back and visit, with Eritrea being at war for most of the time I'd been alive.
Can you tell me about general safety? I'm probably not going to bring my 4 year old there, but how did you feel in general? |
Fascinating report! Many thanks for sharing it. This is why I love FT! ^
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What an amazing adventure. What kind of doctor is Dr Kahsai? It looks like he was an excellent tour guide.
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Thanks a lot for sharing this!
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Apparently the ocean in Massawa is beautiful and very clear. Cruise ships used to call there but no more.
So many Eritreans have left. Fascinating. Thank you. |
Great report. You did bring back memories.... I grew up in Kenya and my parents had friends in Asmara who moved back to Italy in the early sixties. I have been to Asmara and Massawa as a child. I have a photo outside the Italian Commercial Bank building in 1961 (I was 8)!
They seem to have done some sort of work to keep tha Asmara art deco building. A shame for the bombed building in the old city of Massawa. |
Happy new year, Daniel - thanks for another awesome TR about a place I knew nothing about. And thanks to your narrative and typically wonderful photos, I now know some cool things about Eritrea.
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Fascinating. Thanks for posting. ^
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Thanks. do you know if there is diving in Massawa? I have wanted to go but from what I read it was impossible to leave Asmara. So, I am hoping to get there.
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Yet another phenomenal report from this forum's most interesting traveler (just IMO).
Thank you, as always, for sharing. |
Hats off Daniel, trip reports on FT tend to focus too much on the aviation side but yours are very comprehensive and truly on another level.
Thank you again. |
nice report as always, Daniel. destination based-TR like this is always my favourite.
Asmara looks beautiful, and Eritrea in general seems relatively more orderly than other African countries. I'm a bit lost with the visa situation. If I understand it correctly, you applied to Eritrean embassy to get their approval letter, then use it as reference for visa on arrival in Asmara airport? |
Amazing!!! Thank you for sharing such a unique adventure. The food looks delicious. Noticed that one of the boys of the local family you visited had a Toronto T-Shirt on :D
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Originally Posted by rapidex
(Post 27763396)
Brings back memories for me.I was in Asmara for a total of 7 weeks a few years ago.We stayed at the Median hotel.Apart from great pizzas there were always tv's in every restaurent showing European football.
Fantastic trip report.
Originally Posted by 13900
(Post 27763435)
Daniel, this is a great report! It's incredible how Asmara reminds me of certain boroughs of so many Italian cities built in the 1940s-1950s. Yours are, without a shadow of a doubt, my favourite Flyertalk reports.
Originally Posted by roadwarrier
(Post 27763740)
Thanks again DanielW!! I have had a few trips to Eritrea and it is great to hear that more airlines now operate to Asmara.
Did you still have to do the FOREX form that needs to be stamped everytime you change money? And then have to declare every penny when you enter or leave the country?
Originally Posted by MA330
(Post 27764242)
Superb report, as usual. After having seen the announcement of your trip to Eritrea I literally checked your website daily to see if it was online already.
I really want to go to Eritrea as well - did you have any problems taking photos? Thanks for your work!
Originally Posted by YuropFlyer
(Post 27764301)
Thank you for this fantastic report. Especially the picture with locals living a totally normal life makes me wonder why Eritreans are #1 refugees in Switzerland.. (well, I don't wonder, I know why, I wonder why our authorities never actually bother to check the situation there like any regular traveller could)
Originally Posted by bitterproffit
(Post 27764359)
Thank you for the great trip report to another country that I know very little about. You always seem to capture interesting and insightful pictures of the countries you visit. I learn so much about these places from your trip reports.
Originally Posted by PWMTrav
(Post 27764392)
Wow. Amazing trip report, really motivates me to visit. My grandmother was an Italian born in Asmara, and she spent her early life there up until early teens, when they moved back to Genova. I heard so many stories growing up, and she was always disappointed that she couldn't go back and visit, with Eritrea being at war for most of the time I'd been alive.
Can you tell me about general safety? I'm probably not going to bring my 4 year old there, but how did you feel in general?
Originally Posted by as219
(Post 27764712)
Fascinating report! Many thanks for sharing it. This is why I love FT! ^
Originally Posted by HawaiiTrvlr
(Post 27764764)
What an amazing adventure. What kind of doctor is Dr Kahsai? It looks like he was an excellent tour guide.
Originally Posted by flo-e
(Post 27764928)
Thanks a lot for sharing this!
Originally Posted by Bretteee
(Post 27764955)
Apparently the ocean in Massawa is beautiful and very clear. Cruise ships used to call there but no more.
So many Eritreans have left. Fascinating. Thank you.
Originally Posted by londonfog
(Post 27765198)
Great report. You did bring back memories.... I grew up in Kenya and my parents had friends in Asmara who moved back to Italy in the early sixties. I have been to Asmara and Massawa as a child. I have a photo outside the Italian Commercial Bank building in 1961 (I was 8)!
They seem to have done some sort of work to keep tha Asmara art deco building. A shame for the bombed building in the old city of Massawa.
Originally Posted by lb8001
(Post 27765511)
Happy new year, Daniel - thanks for another awesome TR about a place I knew nothing about. And thanks to your narrative and typically wonderful photos, I now know some cool things about Eritrea.
Originally Posted by Betteronacamel
(Post 27765863)
Fascinating. Thanks for posting. ^
Originally Posted by manneca
(Post 27766149)
Thanks. do you know if there is diving in Massawa? I have wanted to go but from what I read it was impossible to leave Asmara. So, I am hoping to get there.
Originally Posted by aa213bb
(Post 27766948)
Yet another phenomenal report from this forum's most interesting traveler (just IMO).
Thank you, as always, for sharing.
Originally Posted by redadeco
(Post 27767046)
Hats off Daniel, trip reports on FT tend to focus too much on the aviation side but yours are very comprehensive and truly on another level.
Thank you again.
Originally Posted by blueferrari
(Post 27767376)
nice report as always, Daniel. destination based-TR like this is always my favourite.
Asmara looks beautiful, and Eritrea in general seems relatively more orderly than other African countries. I'm a bit lost with the visa situation. If I understand it correctly, you applied to Eritrean embassy to get their approval letter, then use it as reference for visa on arrival in Asmara airport?
Originally Posted by SKYEG
(Post 27767432)
Amazing!!! Thank you for sharing such a unique adventure. The food looks delicious. Noticed that one of the boys of the local family you visited had a Toronto T-Shirt on :D
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