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-   Trip Reports (https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports-177/)
-   -   A Trip To Eritrea (https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/1815334-trip-eritrea.html)

stevie Jan 16, 2017 6:01 am
Another fascinating TR. It looks like a truly beautiful country.

Parterre Jan 16, 2017 2:25 pm
Fascinating look into a country few visit. It really does appear to have slowly frozen in time as a mid-sized Italian town; both in terms of the buildings and in the lack of bustle. I would visit, but as someone with an Ethiopian background I have rather... strong feelings about it and its government that would probably make travel inadvisable. :D

That said, a look at Addis Ababa makes one wonder if being frozen in time is necessarily a bad thing. The quality of construction there is not as awful as it used to be, but it's still pretty sub-par, and I'd hate to see Asmara's unique cityscape marred by shoddy concrete and cheap glass. I remember hearing stuff about tourist developments on the coast, but those look pretty thin on the ground. Hope the Palace in Massawa is eventually restored!

Originally Posted by YuropFlyer (Post 27764301)
Thank you for this fantastic report. Especially the picture with locals living a totally normal life makes me wonder why Eritreans are #1 refugees in Switzerland.. (well, I don't wonder, I know why, I wonder why our authorities never actually bother to check the situation there like any regular traveller could)
In this regard the pictures are deceiving. Eritrea is a one party-state, and no national elections-- not even show elections-- have been held since independence. Reporters Without Borders lists Eritrea as having the least free press in the world-- even below North Korea. Starting in their teens, Eritreans are drafted for national service, in which they perform public works for nominal pay, and which can last virtually indefinitely until the age of 50. Certain ethnic groups deemed disloyal to the state have been subject to ethnic cleansing, while religious persecution is near-universal-- even the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church has been under house arrest for over a decade. While some asylum-seekers' claims may be questionable, Eritreans certainly are not amongst their number. I suppose any more detail would be for OMNI-- which I've never seen, anyway! :D

PWMTrav Jan 16, 2017 2:57 pm
Originally Posted by Parterre (Post 27771315)
Fascinating look into a country few visit. It really does appear to have slowly frozen in time as a mid-sized Italian town; both in terms of the buildings and in the lack of bustle. I would visit, but as someone with an Ethiopian background I have rather... strong feelings about it and its government that would probably make travel inadvisable. :D

That said, a look at Addis Ababa makes one wonder if being frozen in time is necessarily a bad thing. The quality of construction there is not as awful as it used to be, but it's still pretty sub-par, and I'd hate to see Asmara's unique cityscape marred by shoddy concrete and cheap glass. I remember hearing stuff about tourist developments on the coast, but those look pretty thin on the ground. Hope the Palace in Massawa is eventually restored!



In this regard the pictures are deceiving. Eritrea is a one party-state, and no national elections-- not even show elections-- have been held since independence. Reporters Without Borders lists Eritrea as having the least free press in the world-- even below North Korea. Starting in their teens, Eritreans are drafted for national service, in which they perform public works for nominal pay, and which can last virtually indefinitely until the age of 50. Certain ethnic groups deemed disloyal to the state have been subject to ethnic cleansing, while religious persecution is near-universal-- even the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church has been under house arrest for over a decade. While some asylum-seekers' claims may be questionable, Eritreans certainly are not amongst their number. I suppose any more detail would be for OMNI-- which I've never seen, anyway! :D
I hope you're still in this thread and wouldn't mind answering a couple of questions -

What's the general sentiment on Italians in Ethiopia and Eritrea (if you know much about the latter)? If one visits, would it be advisable either way to enter on a US or an Italian passport? Do the residents themselves care much? I imagine both could still have hard feelings against Italians, but anything worth worrying about if traveling?

Parterre Jan 16, 2017 3:25 pm
Originally Posted by PWMTrav (Post 27771503)
I hope you're still in this thread and wouldn't mind answering a couple of questions -

What's the general sentiment on Italians in Ethiopia and Eritrea (if you know much about the latter)? If one visits, would it be advisable either way to enter on a US or an Italian passport? Do the residents themselves care much? I imagine both could still have hard feelings against Italians, but anything worth worrying about if traveling?
No Ethiopian (or Eritrean) I know has ever exhibited any kind of meaningful anti-Italian sentiment. To this day, despite the brevity of the occupation, we remain fond of pasta, are utterly addicted to cafe macchiato, and say ciao to one another (which admittedly irks me a little!). After the war, Haile Selassie even allowed the Italian migrants to Ethiopia to stay in the country, and many did, although most left after the Derg took power. Although they've recently been overshadowed by the Chinese, Italians do a considerable amount of business in Ethiopia; the dam on the Nile is being built by an Italian firm.

There is virtually no chance you will run into any problems as an Italian travelling in Ethiopia, unless you happen to meet a particularly grouchy veteran arbegna (partisan) from the war. :p In Eritrea, probably even less so.

757 Jan 16, 2017 8:40 pm
Another great report, Daniel! Thank you for sharing and beautiful photos as always.

ironmanjt Jan 16, 2017 9:05 pm
Wow, great report as usual - and looks like a great find on the tour company - the one I used was decidedly ...less helpful.

Looks like the Sunshine Hotel has also spruced up a bit in the meantime....back then they were renovating and didn't have curtains for any of the windows which meant a 5a wakeup when the sun made it in!

DanielW Jan 17, 2017 1:59 am
Originally Posted by stevie (Post 27768830)
Another fascinating TR. It looks like a truly beautiful country.
Thanks, stevie:). I've been to a few francophone African countries so was really interesting to see an ex-Italian one too.

Originally Posted by Parterre (Post 27771315)
Fascinating look into a country few visit. It really does appear to have slowly frozen in time as a mid-sized Italian town; both in terms of the buildings and in the lack of bustle. I would visit, but as someone with an Ethiopian background I have rather... strong feelings about it and its government that would probably make travel inadvisable. :D
Thank you, Parterre:). It certainly is a very unique and amazing place to visit. I have not been to Havana yet, but the similar comparison that has been made, i.e. 'frozen in a different' era seem to be a very apt description.

Originally Posted by Parterre (Post 27771634)
No Ethiopian (or Eritrean) I know has ever exhibited any kind of meaningful anti-Italian sentiment.
Mehritab, my guide, seemed to be quite sentimental about the past when the Italians were living in Eritrea. From the buildings and infrastructure that they built, to the businesses they used to run, such as the water mineral plant, Italian restaurants, bars and agricultural farms that exported produce to Europe.

Originally Posted by 757 (Post 27772909)
Another great report, Daniel! Thank you for sharing and beautiful photos as always.
Thanks, 757:). Just booking my next trip to Africa now, a bit more of a vacation than an adventure this time though.

Originally Posted by ironmanjt (Post 27772997)
Wow, great report as usual - and looks like a great find on the tour company - the one I used was decidedly ...less helpful.

Looks like the Sunshine Hotel has also spruced up a bit in the meantime....back then they were renovating and didn't have curtains for any of the windows which meant a 5a wakeup when the sun made it in!
Many thanks, ironmanjt:). The price that Damera tours quoted me was quite a bit less than the other two companies I inquired, surprisingly so. But had no problems whatsoever and they were really great.

Yes, the Sunshine looks like it had had a bit of a spruce up. Nothing too fancy, but it was the only hotel out of the three on my trip that had hot water so it was really appreciated:)!

ChiefNWA Jan 17, 2017 6:36 am
Another fantastic TR! I didn't realize Eritrea had such an Italian influence.

DanielW Jan 17, 2017 9:33 pm
Originally Posted by ChiefNWA (Post 27774604)
Another fantastic TR! I didn't realize Eritrea had such an Italian influence.
Thanks, ChiefNWA:). Yes, I was quite surprised too, from the Italian language schools to the pasta and pizza:).

capedreamer Jan 17, 2017 10:51 pm
Wonderful report, illuminating photography, and fascinating storytelling as always!

I've noticed most of your trips tend to start with a pre-dawn departure. Is that a personal preference or does DXB's geographic location have some sort of implication on the availability/abundance of these early-morning flights?

MatthewLAX Jan 17, 2017 11:44 pm
Originally Posted by as219 (Post 27764712)
Fascinating report! Many thanks for sharing it. This is why I love FT! ^
^

Thanks DanielW! Another superb report.

rob_flies_ua Jan 18, 2017 6:45 am
Yet again, a wonderful report of what looked like a great trip. Thanks for sharing! :)

DanielW Jan 18, 2017 11:30 pm
Originally Posted by capedreamer (Post 27779237)
Wonderful report, illuminating photography, and fascinating storytelling as always!

I've noticed most of your trips tend to start with a pre-dawn departure. Is that a personal preference or does DXB's geographic location have some sort of implication on the availability/abundance of these early-morning flights?
Many thanks, capedreamer:). Apparently 3am is DXB's rush hour for flights. More informed people here will be able to elaborate on the reasons why (for connecting/scheduling?). I prefer late-night / early morning flights though so I can minimise the leave from work I need to take.
Originally Posted by MatthewLAX (Post 27779394)
^
Thanks DanielW! Another superb report.
Thank you, MatthewLAX:). I'm running out of places closeby to visit with these long weekend trips so are having to savour them now:).
Originally Posted by rob_flies_ua (Post 27780613)
Yet again, a wonderful report of what looked like a great trip. Thanks for sharing! :)
Thanks, rob_flies_ua:). Just writing up my next TR now so hopefully another shortly.

sinbac Jan 19, 2017 7:08 pm
Thanks,Daniel for this fabulous TR!

RTW00 Jan 19, 2017 8:47 pm
Great report. Don't see much of the reporting on Eritrea and you have done a great job with awesome pictures.

gaobest Jan 20, 2017 1:16 am
Fabulous TR! I love injera and the stews - I was definitely craving Ethiopian / Eritrean food while reading this. There are only a few places in my city with this cuisine.
I noticed that you said that Eritrea was your 100th country but your sig says 102 countries.
I also noticed that you have a lot of night flights, but I assumed it was related to getting good fares, combined with Dubai (and the other major ME3 airports) actually operating all 24 hours of a day.
Is African pizza similar to Italian pizza? I couldn't tell from the picture.

DanielW Jan 21, 2017 10:14 pm
Originally Posted by sinbac (Post 27789642)
Thanks,Daniel for this fabulous TR!
Thanks, sinbac:).
Originally Posted by RTW00 (Post 27789954)
Great report. Don't see much of the reporting on Eritrea and you have done a great job with awesome pictures.
Cheers, RTW00:). Yes, I think this is only the 4th Eritrea TR on FT:).
Originally Posted by gaobest (Post 27790549)
Fabulous TR! I love injera and the stews - I was definitely craving Ethiopian / Eritrean food while reading this. There are only a few places in my city with this cuisine.
I noticed that you said that Eritrea was your 100th country but your sig says 102 countries.
I also noticed that you have a lot of night flights, but I assumed it was related to getting good fares, combined with Dubai (and the other major ME3 airports) actually operating all 24 hours of a day.
Is African pizza similar to Italian pizza? I couldn't tell from the picture.
Many thanks, gaobest:). Yes, I really liked the injera too. I had heard about it before quite a bit, but was great to finally try it.
Two more TR's coming soon (for countries #101 and #102) for Romania and Djibouti.
African pizza was really good, super tasty :).

gaobest Jan 22, 2017 9:21 am
Originally Posted by DanielW (Post 27798880)
thanks, gaobest:). Yes, I really liked the injera too. I had heard about it before quite a bit, but was great to finally try it.
Two more TR's coming soon (for countries #101 and #102) for Romania and Djibouti.
African pizza was really good, super tasty :).
Wow I'm shocked that you haven't had injera before! I imagine that you've known about Eritrean & Ethiopian food forever, esp with the injera. And I assume that you can get this in Dubai.
I've only had it here in San Francisco, where the size of injera is based on table sharing. So a party of 4 will have a larger shared injera than a party of 2, as the course will be on top of the injera.
Was the injera / course shared by other tables at the restaurant? It would be interesting if people don't share the injera in Eritrea.
Anyway glad you had it - hope you can enjoy it again.

Fa Hz Jan 22, 2017 9:43 am
Impressive pics and fabulous report, thanks for sharing :)

Seat 2A Jan 22, 2017 12:49 pm
As lovely as are your pictures of the land, the buildings and the food, I like your people pictures the best. Thanks for such unique and entertaining trip reports over the years, Daniel! You are a real pro! ^

DanielW Jan 25, 2017 2:47 am
Originally Posted by gaobest (Post 27800258)
Wow I'm shocked that you haven't had injera before! I imagine that you've known about Eritrean & Ethiopian food forever, esp with the injera. And I assume that you can get this in Dubai.
I've only had it here in San Francisco, where the size of injera is based on table sharing. So a party of 4 will have a larger shared injera than a party of 2, as the course will be on top of the injera.
Was the injera / course shared by other tables at the restaurant? It would be interesting if people don't share the injera in Eritrea.
Anyway glad you had it - hope you can enjoy it again.
I just shared the injera with my guide, Mehritab, plenty for both of us:).
Originally Posted by Fa Hz (Post 27800345)
Impressive pics and fabulous report, thanks for sharing :)
Thank you, Fa Hz, just getting ready for my next adventure now:).
Originally Posted by Seat 2A (Post 27801086)
As lovely as are your pictures of the land, the buildings and the food, I like your people pictures the best. Thanks for such unique and entertaining trip reports over the years, Daniel! You are a real pro! ^
Many thanks, Seat 2A:). I definitely prefer the people photo's too. People you encounter and see when you travel are often much more memorable than some ornate church or a beautiful landscape. They don't see many tourists about too so the locals weren't too bothered with me sticking a camera in their general direction:).

Calchas Jan 25, 2017 1:45 pm
Great report! Love the pictures. ^

DSI Jan 25, 2017 6:21 pm
wow, huge thanks for such an awesome report. I learned a ton.

camsean Jan 26, 2017 2:14 am
Asmara looks incredible.

It is not surprising though that a country with a dreadful human rights record even by African standards is so hard to get into.

Sean_005 Jan 26, 2017 2:35 am
That was a wonderful report, I really felt I was there, it's a very dreary day here in London and your report really brightened up my day.
Your trip report was a breath of fresh air!!

FlyerTalker7654 Jan 26, 2017 5:35 pm
Another fantastic TR, thanks very much for sharing the adventure with us!! ^

aaron1262 Jan 26, 2017 8:45 pm
thanks for another great trip report to another off the beaten path location! always enjoy reading your reports and seeing the pictures.

DanielW Jan 29, 2017 2:04 am
Originally Posted by Calchas (Post 27816926)
Great report! Love the pictures. ^
Thanks, Calchas, yes, it was a very photogenic country:).
Originally Posted by DSI (Post 27818103)
wow, huge thanks for such an awesome report. I learned a ton.
Cheers, DSI:). I learn't quite few things too about this not-often heard of country.
Originally Posted by camsean (Post 27819387)
Asmara looks incredible.
It is not surprising though that a country with a dreadful human rights record even by African standards is so hard to get into.
Thank you, camsean:). Yes, Asmara was very pretty. They've had the same President since independence and he seems to have everything and everyone firmly under his thumb.
Originally Posted by Sean_005 (Post 27819424)
That was a wonderful report, I really felt I was there, it's a very dreary day here in London and your report really brightened up my day.
Your trip report was a breath of fresh air!!
Many thanks, Sean_005:). Yes, I like to 'escape' into my previous TR's too, a good remedy for a bout of boredom or idle time:).
Originally Posted by SgtRyan (Post 27822774)
Another fantastic TR, thanks very much for sharing the adventure with us!! ^
Thanks, SgtRyan:). Just trying to map out another adventure now for 2017.
Originally Posted by aaron1262 (Post 27823323)
thanks for another great trip report to another off the beaten path location! always enjoy reading your reports and seeing the pictures.
Thanks, aaron1262:). Has been a pleasure sharing them with everyone here.

mike&co Jan 29, 2017 11:25 am
In my opinion (fwiw) Daniel and sfo777 are the best trip report writers on here. Keep them coming. Where next ?

DanielW Jan 31, 2017 2:17 am
Originally Posted by mike&co (Post 27834731)
In my opinion (fwiw) Daniel and sfo777 are the best trip report writers on here. Keep them coming. Where next ?
Many thanks, mike&co:). Just packing my bags now for a trip to the sub-continent, Bangladesh.

zanskar Feb 4, 2017 10:24 am
Just to say Daniel I really enjoyed this

Cheers, RTW00. Yes, I think this is only the 4th Eritrea TR on FT

I was one of those 4!
Doesnt look like much has changed over the last 15 years. I followed a similar itinerary to you but also went up to Nakfa and were able to try diving in Massawa which was great.
Thanks again for posting it was very nostalgic for me.

tsastor Feb 4, 2017 11:34 am
Wow, can't believe I almost missed this report. I think this must be the first time the pictures in a trip report make me feel as though I'm really there myself.

DanielW Feb 6, 2017 11:37 pm
Originally Posted by zanskar (Post 27864797)
Just to say Daniel I really enjoyed this

Cheers, RTW00. Yes, I think this is only the 4th Eritrea TR on FT

I was one of those 4!
Doesnt look like much has changed over the last 15 years. I followed a similar itinerary to you but also went up to Nakfa and were able to try diving in Massawa which was great.
Thanks again for posting it was very nostalgic for me.
Many thanks, zanskar:). Diving in Massawa must have been great. And yes, I wouldn't be surprised if Asmara looked the same in another 15 years:)!
Originally Posted by tsastor (Post 27865066)
Wow, can't believe I almost missed this report. I think this must be the first time the pictures in a trip report make me feel as though I'm really there myself.
Thank you, tsastor:). Just getting ready for my next trip now, and to see what US border control thinks about all my previous exotic travels:D.

Madone59 Feb 8, 2017 10:17 am
Beautiful, beautiful photos. Thank you for sharing and for continuing to take us all with you on these journeys.

DanielW Feb 10, 2017 12:53 am
Originally Posted by Madone59 (Post 27882254)
Beautiful, beautiful photos. Thank you for sharing and for continuing to take us all with you on these journeys.
Many thanks, Madone59:). Just sussing out my next trip now. May have to get some tips from you on one of the cities on the list:).

farbster Feb 10, 2017 8:25 am
Terrific report as always. Do you ever try to send copies of the pictures to the people that pose?

Thanks for taking us along with you on your interesting trips. I'm certain it is the only way I'm getting to most of these spots.

DanielW Feb 11, 2017 12:47 am
Originally Posted by farbster (Post 27891218)
Terrific report as always. Do you ever try to send copies of the pictures to the people that pose?

Thanks for taking us along with you on your interesting trips. I'm certain it is the only way I'm getting to most of these spots.
Thanks, farbster:). I show the people the shot on the camera LCD screen afterwards, but don't generally send copies of the pics after.

flying_blue_white_red Mar 24, 2017 12:57 pm
Amazing TR as usual,

I thought a trip like that would cost more
Asmara streets looks quiet and so clean for African standards...
Thanks for sharing

DanielW Mar 27, 2017 5:06 am
Originally Posted by flying_blue_white_red (Post 28081823)
Amazing TR as usual,

I thought a trip like that would cost more
Asmara streets looks quiet and so clean for African standards...
Thanks for sharing
Thanks, flying_blue_white_red:). Yes, I was really surprised by the cleanliness of the streets, definitely one of my favourite African cities too.

mpkz Apr 17, 2019 7:04 am
To top this thread with some questions, I'm heading to Eritrea for a week. No tour booked (nor will I take one unless it makes travel to Massawa etc. much easier), no hotels booked, no nothing. I've heard horror stories about hotels not having electricity, hot water or internet, would you recommend Sunshine hotel? I guess you did your money changing via your travel agent, but would you recommend black market vs official places?

Thanks!


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