40 Days & Nights (Ghana, Togo, Benin, Rwanda, DRC, UAE, Lebanon, Myanmar, Sri Lanka)
Sep 4, 2016, 6:04 pm
#63
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Day 19: Baalbek, Lebanon
Thankfully we had some time to sleep in a bit before meeting our Uber driver from the day before to take us off to Baalbek in the east of Lebanon. Besides overindulging in the amazing cuisine, visiting Baalbek was a top priority in visiting Lebanon. Over the years, the region has had its share of instability, and opinions on traveling to Baalbek vary greatly. After much, although not very conclusive, research we decided there was low to no risk in visiting the ancient Roman antiquities in the Bekaa Valley. While it was just a few miles from the Syrian border, the geography of the land and Lebanese security made it appear half a world away.
As we would discover, there was no need to shy away from visiting, or even self-driving for that matter. Regardless, for just $120 (much cheaper than the ~$90/person rate offered as tours) the three of us set off for the two-hour ride across Lebanon. There was a bit of traffic in the city and slow trucks (going up the hills) kept our speed in check as we made our way through the valley. From others’ advice we had our passports and expected multiple security checkpoints, but that was hardly the case. At a few points along the way, traffic was funneled through some of those patriotic barricades while a soldier peered in the window. I don’t think we ever actually fully stopped the car and nothing but pleasantries were exchanged between the driver and guards. I had expected long winding roads across expansive voids of civilization, but the majority of the ride consisted of small roads through small towns dotting the landscape. Eventually we passed the exit which led to Damascus and before we knew it, we were in the town of Baalbek.
Bekaa Valley
The road to Damascus
Entering Baalbek
Lots of Palestinian flags and signage around town
Once in town, we walked the main street (where a few touts tried to sell their goods) and found our way to the park entrance. After paying the 15K LBP (~$10) we began exploring the ancient ruins, and UNESCO World Heritage Site (1984). The grounds are pretty expansive, much like their history, but you first enter through what was the Propylaea (a monumental gateway in Greek times) and hexagonal courtyard. Contrary to the modern renderings, mostly just the staircase and a few of the 12 columns remain. The complex is believed to have been constructed under the guidance of Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius between 150 AD and 250 AD. Over the centuries the city has fallen under the rule of many including Muslims, Mongols, Egyptians and Romans, which all used the structures for unique civic and religious purposes.
The Propylaea
Atop the step of the propylaea leading to the hexagonal courtyard
Hexagonal courtyard, very unique for Roman design
Relief design
More detailed ruins on the ground
Beyond the entry, the Grand Courtyard filled the majority of the space. Other than a few outer walls and the water basins, again, not much remained besides the remains of collapsed structure.
Half of the Grand Courtyard
Semicircle exedra
Looking back at the Grand Courtyard
Once the primary of structure of the site, the Temple of Jupiter, was dedicated to Zeus and barely remained. Construction was started under the rule of Julius Ceaser and eventually Augustus. Of the 54 thirty-meter tall, 2.5 meter wide columns, only six remain standing. Over the years many were repurposed across the world (eight for Hagia Sophia) and others fell as a result of earthquakes. It is recognized as the tallest, even outreaching the grandeur of Karnak in Luxor. The details of the capitals on the exterior is nearly pristine while the elements have worn down the interior.
Site of the Temple of Jupiter
That is one large column!
The six remaining columns of the Temple of Jupiter
With a little color
Little detail remains on the inside
But the outside is still very ornate
Snow caps in the distance
Lots of animal depictions
While slightly smaller than the Temple of Jupiter, its neighbor, the Temple of Bacchus (Wine God) is in a state often unseen in ancient antiquities. The majority of its 42 columns still stand, as a result of being protected from the elements (Bekaa winds) by the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. Much like what was once seen across the entire complex, the relief stonework is extremely ornate and a highlight of the site. Restoration works are ongoing to repair the roofing and preserve the other surfaces. As we explored rubble rained from above as crews went about their work. Near the Temple of Bacchus was a small museum which housed artifacts from a necropolis, and was well air conditioned!
Temple of Bacchus
In such good shape since it was protected from the remains of the Temple of Jupiter
Restoration work is being done to the cover
>20 meter columns
Temple of Jupiter from the Temple of Bacchus
Very ornate ceiling art
Supposedly Cleopatra
Museum of the necropolis
It was a pretty amazing site and sadly much like Persepolis in Iran (and now Palmyra in Syria) it is largely unvisited. I’d guess only 10 other people were on the grounds during our 90 minutes of exploring. As we left we were again approached by touts and I picked up a few low quality but unique souvenirs.
Get your Hezbollah souvenirs
Seems a bit out of place
I tried to buy the Iranian donation box, but it wasn’t for sale
Along the ride out of Baalbek we passed multiple roadside signs and images of the region’s Shia leaders, past and present. Our driver initiated some political conversation about regional corruption and pointed out many mansions along the drive belonging to wealthy Gulf State families. He pointed out how the government makes thinly paved roads to save money and line their own pockets. Just before we exited the Bekaa Valley we made an important pit stop at the Chateau Ksara to learn a bit about the wines of Lebanon. In 1857 Jesuit Priests began making a non sweet red wine and after discovering the caves from ancient Roman times had some perfect natural wine cellars to store their product. The tour began with a short video, followed by a walk through the caves and finally a tasting of their most popular wines, or any wine we asked for. I foolishly asked our guide which was her favorite, but explained she doesn’t drink, although she knew a lot for never having tasted the products. The tour and sampling was free but we spent a good amount on some really inexpensive bottles of wine to bring home as souvenirs. They do distribute to many countries (including USA) but I’m sure at a much higher cost than tossing one in your suitcase.
Israel and Daesh keep Hassan Nasrallah (leader of Hezbollah) up at night
Previous leader of Hezbollah: Abbas al-Musawi
Iran’s first Supreme Leader: Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini
And even the current Supreme Leader: Ayatollah Ali Khamenei
Driving without lines
Chateau Ksara
Ksara Winery
Ksara wines in the cave
Spoiled vintages still locked up
Sampling the chardonnay
Stocking up on a few souvenirs
Approaching Beirut
We got back home around 17:00 and headed out for dinner at a local, but slightly upscale, Lebanese restaurant, Diwanbeirut. Even though I had tried the Nayeh (raw kibbeh) yesterday, I still wanted to sample a full portion, which I wound up eating 90% of. It was addictively good I must admit. We also had some hummus and shanklish (a type of local cheese mixed with spices and tomatoes). For my entree I ordered a kibbeh zghort labneh, a ball of kibbeh stuffed with labneh cheese! Fantastic, but the service was really really slow and I was really tired by the time food arrived. The tab was a pricey 96K LBP but well worth the feast, or so I thought. With that, we headed back home to begin planning the next few days driving across Lebanon.
Diwanbeirut
Quite the starter
Veggies, hummus and shanklish
Nayeh
Kibbeh zghort labneh
Labneh inside!
As we would discover, there was no need to shy away from visiting, or even self-driving for that matter. Regardless, for just $120 (much cheaper than the ~$90/person rate offered as tours) the three of us set off for the two-hour ride across Lebanon. There was a bit of traffic in the city and slow trucks (going up the hills) kept our speed in check as we made our way through the valley. From others’ advice we had our passports and expected multiple security checkpoints, but that was hardly the case. At a few points along the way, traffic was funneled through some of those patriotic barricades while a soldier peered in the window. I don’t think we ever actually fully stopped the car and nothing but pleasantries were exchanged between the driver and guards. I had expected long winding roads across expansive voids of civilization, but the majority of the ride consisted of small roads through small towns dotting the landscape. Eventually we passed the exit which led to Damascus and before we knew it, we were in the town of Baalbek.
Bekaa Valley
The road to Damascus
Entering Baalbek
Lots of Palestinian flags and signage around town
Once in town, we walked the main street (where a few touts tried to sell their goods) and found our way to the park entrance. After paying the 15K LBP (~$10) we began exploring the ancient ruins, and UNESCO World Heritage Site (1984). The grounds are pretty expansive, much like their history, but you first enter through what was the Propylaea (a monumental gateway in Greek times) and hexagonal courtyard. Contrary to the modern renderings, mostly just the staircase and a few of the 12 columns remain. The complex is believed to have been constructed under the guidance of Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius between 150 AD and 250 AD. Over the centuries the city has fallen under the rule of many including Muslims, Mongols, Egyptians and Romans, which all used the structures for unique civic and religious purposes.
The Propylaea
Atop the step of the propylaea leading to the hexagonal courtyard
Hexagonal courtyard, very unique for Roman design
Relief design
More detailed ruins on the ground
Beyond the entry, the Grand Courtyard filled the majority of the space. Other than a few outer walls and the water basins, again, not much remained besides the remains of collapsed structure.
Half of the Grand Courtyard
Semicircle exedra
Looking back at the Grand Courtyard
Once the primary of structure of the site, the Temple of Jupiter, was dedicated to Zeus and barely remained. Construction was started under the rule of Julius Ceaser and eventually Augustus. Of the 54 thirty-meter tall, 2.5 meter wide columns, only six remain standing. Over the years many were repurposed across the world (eight for Hagia Sophia) and others fell as a result of earthquakes. It is recognized as the tallest, even outreaching the grandeur of Karnak in Luxor. The details of the capitals on the exterior is nearly pristine while the elements have worn down the interior.
Site of the Temple of Jupiter
That is one large column!
The six remaining columns of the Temple of Jupiter
With a little color
Little detail remains on the inside
But the outside is still very ornate
Snow caps in the distance
Lots of animal depictions
While slightly smaller than the Temple of Jupiter, its neighbor, the Temple of Bacchus (Wine God) is in a state often unseen in ancient antiquities. The majority of its 42 columns still stand, as a result of being protected from the elements (Bekaa winds) by the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. Much like what was once seen across the entire complex, the relief stonework is extremely ornate and a highlight of the site. Restoration works are ongoing to repair the roofing and preserve the other surfaces. As we explored rubble rained from above as crews went about their work. Near the Temple of Bacchus was a small museum which housed artifacts from a necropolis, and was well air conditioned!
Temple of Bacchus
In such good shape since it was protected from the remains of the Temple of Jupiter
Restoration work is being done to the cover
>20 meter columns
Temple of Jupiter from the Temple of Bacchus
Very ornate ceiling art
Supposedly Cleopatra
Museum of the necropolis
It was a pretty amazing site and sadly much like Persepolis in Iran (and now Palmyra in Syria) it is largely unvisited. I’d guess only 10 other people were on the grounds during our 90 minutes of exploring. As we left we were again approached by touts and I picked up a few low quality but unique souvenirs.
Get your Hezbollah souvenirs
Seems a bit out of place
I tried to buy the Iranian donation box, but it wasn’t for sale
Along the ride out of Baalbek we passed multiple roadside signs and images of the region’s Shia leaders, past and present. Our driver initiated some political conversation about regional corruption and pointed out many mansions along the drive belonging to wealthy Gulf State families. He pointed out how the government makes thinly paved roads to save money and line their own pockets. Just before we exited the Bekaa Valley we made an important pit stop at the Chateau Ksara to learn a bit about the wines of Lebanon. In 1857 Jesuit Priests began making a non sweet red wine and after discovering the caves from ancient Roman times had some perfect natural wine cellars to store their product. The tour began with a short video, followed by a walk through the caves and finally a tasting of their most popular wines, or any wine we asked for. I foolishly asked our guide which was her favorite, but explained she doesn’t drink, although she knew a lot for never having tasted the products. The tour and sampling was free but we spent a good amount on some really inexpensive bottles of wine to bring home as souvenirs. They do distribute to many countries (including USA) but I’m sure at a much higher cost than tossing one in your suitcase.
Israel and Daesh keep Hassan Nasrallah (leader of Hezbollah) up at night
Previous leader of Hezbollah: Abbas al-Musawi
Iran’s first Supreme Leader: Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini
And even the current Supreme Leader: Ayatollah Ali Khamenei
Driving without lines
Chateau Ksara
Ksara Winery
Ksara wines in the cave
Spoiled vintages still locked up
Sampling the chardonnay
Stocking up on a few souvenirs
Approaching Beirut
We got back home around 17:00 and headed out for dinner at a local, but slightly upscale, Lebanese restaurant, Diwanbeirut. Even though I had tried the Nayeh (raw kibbeh) yesterday, I still wanted to sample a full portion, which I wound up eating 90% of. It was addictively good I must admit. We also had some hummus and shanklish (a type of local cheese mixed with spices and tomatoes). For my entree I ordered a kibbeh zghort labneh, a ball of kibbeh stuffed with labneh cheese! Fantastic, but the service was really really slow and I was really tired by the time food arrived. The tab was a pricey 96K LBP but well worth the feast, or so I thought. With that, we headed back home to begin planning the next few days driving across Lebanon.
Diwanbeirut
Quite the starter
Veggies, hummus and shanklish
Nayeh
Kibbeh zghort labneh
Labneh inside!
Sep 4, 2016, 6:12 pm
#64
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
I've seen some unique signs (usually because of poor translations) but this was so simple and true.
Sep 5, 2016, 6:50 am
#66
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Austin, TX -- AA Life Platinum; QF Life Silver; UA Silver
Posts: 5,462
Looks like great weather for Baalbek! It was cold, grey and rainy the day I visited. I continued up the Bekaa valley into Syria from there in late Jan 2011... really glad I made my trip to Syria when I did!
?
Sep 10, 2016, 9:41 pm
#69
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,525
Sep 11, 2016, 8:45 am
#70
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
You and me both! I loved it! Damn CNN for its jaded perspectives.
You just had awful luck with the Inka Trail and Baalbek. Looks like you made it safely by days...When day did you leave? Didn't the violence begin a the end of the month?
You're welcome! That was my goal!
We got very lucky with weather, and nearly had the place to ourselves.
Odd, I know there has been ISIS influence 10 miles away in Aasal, but it seems Lebanon is otherwise well protected on that front.
I'll try, eventually...
I'll try, eventually...
Sep 11, 2016, 8:57 am
#71
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
First off I wish to thank everyone for following my latest journey. It has taken longer than expected to write up my experiences and I must begrudgingly delay its conclusion until mid October.
Currently I am in Doha about to begin another month long trip to Armenia (Nagorno Kaabakh), Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal (to trek to the base of Mount Everest).
Sorry for the massive delay, but you will have plenty to read upon my return!
Currently I am in Doha about to begin another month long trip to Armenia (Nagorno Kaabakh), Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal (to trek to the base of Mount Everest).
Sorry for the massive delay, but you will have plenty to read upon my return!
Sep 11, 2016, 8:09 pm
#72
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Austin, TX -- AA Life Platinum; QF Life Silver; UA Silver
Posts: 5,462
hah.. yeah well it was off season in late Jan/early Feb so weather wasn't that great until I reached Jordan. The sun did come out for a bit when I was at the Bacchus temple so did get some blue sky at least. I was in Syria Jan 30th-Feb 5th. The protests had already started in Egypt and everyone was watching them on TV. Wiki says Syria protests started March 11.. So it was about 5 weeks.
Sep 12, 2016, 2:59 pm
#73
Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,685
Great report, though I'd really recommend slowing down instead of doing 1/2 days per country! I'm heading to Lebanon in November to try to run a marathon, so it was cool to see that.
Though with West Africa, I guess there isn't that much to really see.
Though with West Africa, I guess there isn't that much to really see.
Sep 13, 2016, 11:35 am
#74
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,181
>>You and me both! I loved it! Damn CNN for its jaded perspectives. >>
LOL jaded perspectives?
If you were a refugee forced to flee a Middle Eastern country like me, you would understand why some of us can't visit Hezballahland.
I would love to visit Lebanon but it is too dangerous and too late now.
Love your report though. Thanks.
LOL jaded perspectives?
If you were a refugee forced to flee a Middle Eastern country like me, you would understand why some of us can't visit Hezballahland.
I would love to visit Lebanon but it is too dangerous and too late now.
Love your report though. Thanks.