Culinary extravaganza in the Cape Winelands (BA J)
Feb 20, 2015, 3:37 am
#17
Join Date: Aug 2011
Programs: QR - plat (OWE), AI - Maharajah (* gold), Bonvoy - plat, HH - gold, Shangri La - jade, Sixt - plat
Posts: 231
Over 3 seperate trips in the past 5 years, we've spent a significant amount of time in the Western Cape region. The Cape winelands is possibly our favorite place in the world, and Franschoek our absolute favorite small town. As a food and wine lover, I see great value in our visits there and have been to most of the great Franschoek/Stellenbosch/CPT wineries and restaurants.
Thank you for allowing us to revisit our memories via your fabulous TR. We hope to be back in Jan/Feb 2016.
Thank you for allowing us to revisit our memories via your fabulous TR. We hope to be back in Jan/Feb 2016.
Feb 20, 2015, 8:59 am
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver
Programs: Aeroplan, BA, QR
Posts: 362
5. Stellenbosch I
Off we went back over the mountain... Stellenbosch is only 30km from Franschoek so we took it easy and arrived in less than an hour anyway. Our B&B was the highly rated Coopmanhuijs which is 5* B&B in the heart of the town. What a glorious place with quaint old-style decor and furnishings yet modern facilities. Finally some decent free Wifi and even a valet service for the rental car. The room was much smaller but it was great being above the street and hearing the chatter of the University of Stellenbosch students at the surrounding bistros...
That evening we went for dinner at Rust en Vrede which is on the same wine farm. We were really excited for this one. Rust en Vrede has been on the national Top 10 list for years, and is often number 1. What a breathtaking experience. Without being too dramatic, I don't mind telling you that it was the best dining experience I have ever had, and worth every cent.
On arrival we were welcomed by name and asked if we would like a pre-dinner drink on the verandah, which we gladly accepted.
pre-dinner snacks
warm towels prior to entering the restaurant
The restaurant is exquisite inside, with a very high staff to patron ratio... I'm guessing 3:1, as well as a very proactive and knowledgable sommelier. Beautiful large tables and comfortable chairs, I think there are only about 20 tables in total, with a highly exclusive feeling.
bread basket with different butters
amuse bouche
We were surrounded by French, German and British tourists and felt like foreigners, but it was all in good fun and they seemed to be having a ball. They have a 4- and 6- course menu, so we went for the 4-course which was completely sufficient. They even have a special 10-course experience menu that you can book 24h in advance, and there was a Japanese couple who was enjoying that in the corner.
I asked for a 2011 Rust en Vrede merlot but the sommelier considered it to be a bit young, and we ended up getting the 2007 vintage which was ridiculously smooth and such a treat.
The crayfish tail was to die for.
As was the fillet...
palate cleanser
souffle and creamy pistachio icecream
caramel and panacotta compilation
selection of petit fours to choose from
the handwritten bill with a wax seal
The restaurant was mesmerising... I have never visited a place that combines such a brilliant menu with outstanding service and classy ambience. Higher than five stars in my opinion and a very pleasant memory to keep.
Off we went back over the mountain... Stellenbosch is only 30km from Franschoek so we took it easy and arrived in less than an hour anyway. Our B&B was the highly rated Coopmanhuijs which is 5* B&B in the heart of the town. What a glorious place with quaint old-style decor and furnishings yet modern facilities. Finally some decent free Wifi and even a valet service for the rental car. The room was much smaller but it was great being above the street and hearing the chatter of the University of Stellenbosch students at the surrounding bistros...
That evening we went for dinner at Rust en Vrede which is on the same wine farm. We were really excited for this one. Rust en Vrede has been on the national Top 10 list for years, and is often number 1. What a breathtaking experience. Without being too dramatic, I don't mind telling you that it was the best dining experience I have ever had, and worth every cent.
On arrival we were welcomed by name and asked if we would like a pre-dinner drink on the verandah, which we gladly accepted.
pre-dinner snacks
warm towels prior to entering the restaurant
The restaurant is exquisite inside, with a very high staff to patron ratio... I'm guessing 3:1, as well as a very proactive and knowledgable sommelier. Beautiful large tables and comfortable chairs, I think there are only about 20 tables in total, with a highly exclusive feeling.
bread basket with different butters
amuse bouche
We were surrounded by French, German and British tourists and felt like foreigners, but it was all in good fun and they seemed to be having a ball. They have a 4- and 6- course menu, so we went for the 4-course which was completely sufficient. They even have a special 10-course experience menu that you can book 24h in advance, and there was a Japanese couple who was enjoying that in the corner.
I asked for a 2011 Rust en Vrede merlot but the sommelier considered it to be a bit young, and we ended up getting the 2007 vintage which was ridiculously smooth and such a treat.
The crayfish tail was to die for.
As was the fillet...
palate cleanser
souffle and creamy pistachio icecream
caramel and panacotta compilation
selection of petit fours to choose from
the handwritten bill with a wax seal
The restaurant was mesmerising... I have never visited a place that combines such a brilliant menu with outstanding service and classy ambience. Higher than five stars in my opinion and a very pleasant memory to keep.
Feb 20, 2015, 9:03 am
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver
Programs: Aeroplan, BA, QR
Posts: 362
Thank you Petrus... we thought about going to Reubens but there are so many options! Maybe we'll try it next time.
Thank you for the great feedback, vbh812... I'm so glad this could bring back your good memories of the Cape 
Over 3 seperate trips in the past 5 years, we've spent a significant amount of time in the Western Cape region. The Cape winelands is possibly our favorite place in the world, and Franschoek our absolute favorite small town. As a food and wine lover, I see great value in our visits there and have been to most of the great Franschoek/Stellenbosch/CPT wineries and restaurants.
Thank you for allowing us to revisit our memories via your fabulous TR. We hope to be back in Jan/Feb 2016.
Thank you for allowing us to revisit our memories via your fabulous TR. We hope to be back in Jan/Feb 2016.
Feb 20, 2015, 10:17 am
#20
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: SF Bay Area
Programs: UA 1K MM, Accor Plat, Htz PC, Natl ExEm, other random status
Posts: 2,876
Fantastic TR!
Other than the surrounding terrain being a bit higher, it's amazing how much the area (and the restaurants) remind me of the Napa Valley.
Greg
Other than the surrounding terrain being a bit higher, it's amazing how much the area (and the restaurants) remind me of the Napa Valley.
Greg
Feb 21, 2015, 10:46 pm
#23
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: London
Posts: 17,007
Nice report!
Despite positively stuffing myself at dinner I am feeling hungry again after looking at your pictures.
A shame Comair cannot be persuaded to run BA's European operations. Rather sad when a franchisee does it better than the principal.
Despite positively stuffing myself at dinner I am feeling hungry again after looking at your pictures.
A shame Comair cannot be persuaded to run BA's European operations. Rather sad when a franchisee does it better than the principal.
Feb 22, 2015, 7:44 am
#25
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver • DEN-APA
Programs: AF Platinum, EK Gold, AA EXP, UA 1K, Hyatt Globalist
Posts: 21,602
What a treat to read about and see Franschoek, Hermanus and Stellenbosch. Outstanding photos and narrative. Thank you for so many ideas of what to see and do next month.
We are staying in Franschoek our first two nights and will try to get a reservation at Le Bon Vivant assuming that we can't find a way to get into The Tasting Room. Then to Cape Town for three nights and am thinking lunch at Rust en Vrede along the way would be perfect stop. Looking forward to your Cape Town section. Thank you SAtraveler.
We are staying in Franschoek our first two nights and will try to get a reservation at Le Bon Vivant assuming that we can't find a way to get into The Tasting Room. Then to Cape Town for three nights and am thinking lunch at Rust en Vrede along the way would be perfect stop. Looking forward to your Cape Town section. Thank you SAtraveler.
Feb 22, 2015, 6:00 pm
#28
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orange County and oftentimes London
Programs: Marriott Bonvoy, HH Diamond, AA EXP, VS Gold, BAEC Silver, Global Entry, UK RT
Posts: 539
Brilliant report and photos! Thoroughly enjoying every bit of it. Already starting the planning process for a trip next year. Can't wait!
Feb 23, 2015, 3:22 am
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver
Programs: Aeroplan, BA, QR
Posts: 362
6. Stellenbosch II
We were up quite early for a lovely breakfast in our excellent B&B.
The next day we headed off to Ernie Els which is owned by the golfer himself. The farm is really impressive and obviously has a sporty feel to it, with great views of the valley. His wines weren't half bad either. They have recently started making a Rose which was above average. The Proprietor's Blend is just excellent and very forceful for a Bordeaux blend, though our guide said it ages beautifully and for up to 25 years. As if we'd allow it to live peacefully for such a duration in our home...
Some of Ernie's trophies
This road to Ernie Els is part of the Hidden Valley road which contains a few estates (including Rust en Vrede), so it was our second time back on it since the previous evening. We even returned again later for dinner. While on this road we visited Bilton Wines which is not so well known, and dare I say it, impressive... nevertheless, we still popped by because they offer a wine & chocolate tasting and those are always good.
Their vintage car collection
The Bilton family from the UK owns the farm and they tend to pass it down to the next 'heir' who happens to be Mark Bilton at the moment. The chocolate is made specifically for each wine. If you think about it, its an utterly useless exercise considering you will never have a chance to pair the wine with a custom made chocolate again. However, it does show how other flavours can enhance a wine, if only for this short time, and it was a great deal of fun.
We then quickly took a journey to Delheim to replenish our stock of their desert wine (Spatzendreck) which used to be made of chenin alone but is now a blend. It's still good though, so we stocked up. They offer a great tasting in an area that feels like a dungeon, and we promised to commit next time, but were too tipsy to really appreciate much more that day.
That evening we were off to Overture for dinner, which is another notable Top 10 experience. We were there about two years ago for their extensive tasting menu and wine paring but decided this time to go for the a la Carte experience, which was equally satisfying. The restaurant feels like its in the middle of nowhere as if you are driving through the jungle in Jurassic Park, but then it suddenly appears and is in a large and modern building with stunning views of the surrounding cities in the distance.
Views
Our table was well lit with a small solar-powered lamp, and these seem common in the area. They work really well, and as a fan of green energy, I approve!
Once again, Overture really impressed us and retained their glorious reputation. Not in the Rust en Vrede class, but then what is?
We were up quite early for a lovely breakfast in our excellent B&B.
The next day we headed off to Ernie Els which is owned by the golfer himself. The farm is really impressive and obviously has a sporty feel to it, with great views of the valley. His wines weren't half bad either. They have recently started making a Rose which was above average. The Proprietor's Blend is just excellent and very forceful for a Bordeaux blend, though our guide said it ages beautifully and for up to 25 years. As if we'd allow it to live peacefully for such a duration in our home...
Some of Ernie's trophies
This road to Ernie Els is part of the Hidden Valley road which contains a few estates (including Rust en Vrede), so it was our second time back on it since the previous evening. We even returned again later for dinner. While on this road we visited Bilton Wines which is not so well known, and dare I say it, impressive... nevertheless, we still popped by because they offer a wine & chocolate tasting and those are always good.
Their vintage car collection
The Bilton family from the UK owns the farm and they tend to pass it down to the next 'heir' who happens to be Mark Bilton at the moment. The chocolate is made specifically for each wine. If you think about it, its an utterly useless exercise considering you will never have a chance to pair the wine with a custom made chocolate again. However, it does show how other flavours can enhance a wine, if only for this short time, and it was a great deal of fun.
We then quickly took a journey to Delheim to replenish our stock of their desert wine (Spatzendreck) which used to be made of chenin alone but is now a blend. It's still good though, so we stocked up. They offer a great tasting in an area that feels like a dungeon, and we promised to commit next time, but were too tipsy to really appreciate much more that day.
That evening we were off to Overture for dinner, which is another notable Top 10 experience. We were there about two years ago for their extensive tasting menu and wine paring but decided this time to go for the a la Carte experience, which was equally satisfying. The restaurant feels like its in the middle of nowhere as if you are driving through the jungle in Jurassic Park, but then it suddenly appears and is in a large and modern building with stunning views of the surrounding cities in the distance.
Views
Our table was well lit with a small solar-powered lamp, and these seem common in the area. They work really well, and as a fan of green energy, I approve!
Once again, Overture really impressed us and retained their glorious reputation. Not in the Rust en Vrede class, but then what is?
Feb 23, 2015, 3:53 am
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver
Programs: Aeroplan, BA, QR
Posts: 362
7. Stellenbosch III
The next morning we decided to meander around town for a few hours. Stellenbosch is such an awesome town built around the University, and the whole place feels so vibrant and jovial despite its older origins.
Animals anyone?
One of the churches
One of the university buildings
After this it was lunch time and we drove about 10km down the road to Beyerskloof. Beyerskloof Pinotage has been our staple red for dinner for years, as its basically a 4* wine for a very low cost. This time, however, we went for their Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage which is very difficult to find in wine stores around the country. Many people consider it to be one of the best Pinotages available anywhere. It's pricey though, so it should be stored for a few years to allow it to reach its potential, but the three bottles we purchased were among our most valuable purchases on this vacation. We also discovered their Rose, which is dry but wholly impressive, so we had it for lunch on their verandah.
Some Rose with your view...?
Making friends...
The Deli at Beyerskloof is known for its beef burger, the Beyerskloof Pinotage Burger. The caramelized onions are soaked in Beyerskloof Pinotage for three days and then added to the burger. It was honestly one of the best burgers I've ever had, and I was too busy devouring it to take a picture. Apparently in peak season they make up to 300 burgers a day, and last year they ran out leading to a small riot and perhaps a few moments of anarchy.
Off we went to Tokara which is a local favourite, and I can see why. The tasting for 6 wines is free, so naturally the whole Stellenbosch University rugby team was there, and it was BUSY. That said, their wines were really good and they also make a potstill brandy which is really smooth, comes in a fantastic bottle and has a sensational orange aftertaste that will leave you begging for more. Unlike the wines the brandy is not free, and a tasting will cripple your bank account by $1.
Tree sculpture with lines from a poem interlaced within
Brandy tasting
Tokara's awards
View from the tasting room with an early setup for a wedding later in the day
For our last visit that day we then went to Delaire which is a fantastically beautiful and upmarket farm. Their wines are also divine but unfortunately they shoo'd us away because they were too setting up for a wedding. Seems like some brides need the whole farm, and not just the wedding venue
Some pictures of Delaire...
We decided we'd come back another day and make an effort to do a tasting. Delaire is like wine royalty and you can't go home without tasting it. We also got an opportunity to view the world's largest yellow square diamond there, which the owners recently sold at Sotheby's for 25 million Swiss Francs. The burden of winemaking is indeed, severe.
The next morning we decided to meander around town for a few hours. Stellenbosch is such an awesome town built around the University, and the whole place feels so vibrant and jovial despite its older origins.
Animals anyone?
One of the churches
One of the university buildings
After this it was lunch time and we drove about 10km down the road to Beyerskloof. Beyerskloof Pinotage has been our staple red for dinner for years, as its basically a 4* wine for a very low cost. This time, however, we went for their Beyerskloof Diesel Pinotage which is very difficult to find in wine stores around the country. Many people consider it to be one of the best Pinotages available anywhere. It's pricey though, so it should be stored for a few years to allow it to reach its potential, but the three bottles we purchased were among our most valuable purchases on this vacation. We also discovered their Rose, which is dry but wholly impressive, so we had it for lunch on their verandah.
Some Rose with your view...?
Making friends...
The Deli at Beyerskloof is known for its beef burger, the Beyerskloof Pinotage Burger. The caramelized onions are soaked in Beyerskloof Pinotage for three days and then added to the burger. It was honestly one of the best burgers I've ever had, and I was too busy devouring it to take a picture. Apparently in peak season they make up to 300 burgers a day, and last year they ran out leading to a small riot and perhaps a few moments of anarchy.
Off we went to Tokara which is a local favourite, and I can see why. The tasting for 6 wines is free, so naturally the whole Stellenbosch University rugby team was there, and it was BUSY. That said, their wines were really good and they also make a potstill brandy which is really smooth, comes in a fantastic bottle and has a sensational orange aftertaste that will leave you begging for more. Unlike the wines the brandy is not free, and a tasting will cripple your bank account by $1.
Tree sculpture with lines from a poem interlaced within
Brandy tasting
Tokara's awards
View from the tasting room with an early setup for a wedding later in the day
For our last visit that day we then went to Delaire which is a fantastically beautiful and upmarket farm. Their wines are also divine but unfortunately they shoo'd us away because they were too setting up for a wedding. Seems like some brides need the whole farm, and not just the wedding venue
Some pictures of Delaire...
We decided we'd come back another day and make an effort to do a tasting. Delaire is like wine royalty and you can't go home without tasting it. We also got an opportunity to view the world's largest yellow square diamond there, which the owners recently sold at Sotheby's for 25 million Swiss Francs. The burden of winemaking is indeed, severe.