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Old Oct 14, 2014, 2:45 am
  #46  
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Originally Posted by sfoactuary
Yes, sadly our experience was similar to yours, with the Raffles just not living up to expectations. The sad part is that there is so much potential here!
True, even if they did a lot of faults durng construction. Also Praslin is a wonderful island and I can`t really see an alternative with a beach.
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 2:07 pm
  #47  
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Island Hopping - La Digue

Until today, we had been having a good time in the Seychelles, but nothing had really blown us away. Everything changed once we stepped foot on La Digue.

La Digue is the 3rd largest island in the Seychelles after Mahe and Praslin, and is a short 15-minute ferry ride from Praslin. The route is serviced by both the Cat Cocos and Inter Island Ferry, and between the two companies there are at least 4-5 departures per day from Praslin, making La Digue a perfect destination for a full-day or even half-day trip.

We drove out to the Praslin boat jetty which was roughly 20 minutes from the hotel, purchased our tickets, and queued up. Many other passengers had luggage with them since they planned to stay overnight on La Digue. The ferry is quite large, easily seating over 100 passengers between its lower and upper decks.

It was just a 15-minute ride over to La Digue, but it was a roller-coaster of a trip that put my stomach to the test. We were glad that we had opted for the plane ride from back from Praslin to Mahe instead of the even longer, 50-minute ferry ride.

Even though it's the 3rd largest island in the Seychelles, La Digue is significantly smaller than Praslin which means that it is easily navigated by bicycle or even by walking. Bicycle rentals are available right at the jetty, and 15,000 Rupees later we had our rides for the day. There are a handful of taxis on the island, but in general there really isn't much car traffic here which makes it extremely safe to ride bikes.

First stop? Anse Source d'Argent, which is one of the most photographed beaches in the world, located about 15 minute bike ride south of the jetty. We had taken the first ferry of the day in order to beat the crowds, and after summoning our inner-Lance Armstrong, we were successful in out-pacing our fellow passengers on that morning's ferry.

This beach is located on a compound that actually requires an entrance fee, but believe me it's worth every penny. After entering the compound and biking along a dirt road that took us past some vanilla bean trees and giant tortoises, we were there.

Now I understood why this beach is considered to be one of the best in the world - the pictures simply don't do it justice. Anse Source d'Argent isn't merely one long stretch of beach, but rather a series of beaches accessible along a walkway. At any point, you can jump out onto the beach to check out the unique pink granite formations at every turn. The sand is powder-soft, and the turquoise water was warm enough for a bath.

Our hustle paid off and we were among the first people to arrive for the day. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

The money shot


Anse Source d'Argent












My attempt to be artsy


Our return ferry wasn't scheduled until late afternoon, which meant that we'd be on La Digue for over 7 hours. Initially, we were worried that we'd be bored and have trouble filling in the time, and had been considering changing our return to an earlier time. My suggestion? Spend the entire day here, you simply will not regret it.

After walking to the end of Anse Source d'Argent, we circled back and went beach hopping for the next couple hours before deciding that it was time to move on. We saddled up, and started to ride further south toward Grande Anse, the #1 beach in the world according to the CNN list that had brought us here.

We arrived just as some rain showers were passing through, and grabbed cover at the small beach restaurant where we enjoyed a fresh coconut as we waited it out.

Grande Anse itself is just one long stretch of beach, book-ended by two beautiful pink granite formations. It's extremely wavy, and is clearly marked as not safe for swimming. That didn't stop two young teenagers from trying, and they nearly paid the ultimate price after getting sucked under by the currents. Luckily they were able to break free and made it back to shore, but were in bad shape and needed medical attention. The paramedics must be purposefully located close by, since they arrived in minutes.

Perhaps that's what makes this beach so appealing and enticing, since it presents itself in a "look but don't touch" manner. There's also a path that leads north and takes you to several other nearby beaches, including Petit Anse and Anse Cocos.

While CNN had Grande Anse ranked at #1 and Anse Source d'Argent at #4, my ranking would flip the two, as nothing we saw on the entire trip compared to the beauty of Anse Source d'Argent.

Grande Anse




Waves crashing in at Grande Anse




After a couple hours at Grande Anse, we were ready to move on again and biked north, past the jetty, and along the northern tip of the island where there are many more beaches. We had worked up an appetite, and stopped by a roadside restaurant to grab a bite. Keeping with our theme for the trip, we ordered a tuna pizza, along with octopus curry.

Overall, this was by far the best day of our entire trip. If you decide to make the journey to the Seychelles, don't leave without spending a day on the island of La Digue.



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Old Oct 15, 2014, 2:35 am
  #48  
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Lists I agree about La Digue, wonderful place.
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 3:12 pm
  #49  
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Island Hopping - Praslin, Cousine, Curieuse, St. Pierre

Those passing rain showers that I've been alluding to in the Seychelles? They passed by every single day, except for the one that we'd be spending on a boat, in the middle of the ocean, with no cover. Just our luck.

Imagine taping sponges all around your body, throwing on a huge wool sweater, and then sitting in the shower for 8 hours. The skies decided to really let it go today, and we were soaked to a level that I'd never experienced before. At least it was a comfortable 75-80 degrees throughout the day, so we weren't out in the cold shivering our butts off.

Through the hotel we had arranged for an island hopping day-trip that would start at Cousine Island, then take us over to Curieuse Island, and would finish at St. Pierre Island which is known for snorkeling.

Our guide picked us up at the hotel in a twin-engine speedboat, and explained that when it rains it actually calms down the seas. If this was calm, then I'd hate to see angry. It was even more of a roller coaster ride than yesterday's ferry ride to La Digue, and for those that get seasick you will definitely want to have whatever you need on-hand.

We anchored slightly off-shore at Cousine Island, and were picked up in a smaller boat. The fun part was speeding into shore, catching a final wave, and flying airborne onto the beach like something out of a James Bond movie.

My one piece of advice when visiting Cousine? BRING MOSQUITO REPELLENT. If you don't, you will get absolutely devoured. We lucked out in that everyone else was smarter than us and had brought it. We put on our saddest puppy dog faces and were able to beg others for some.

The group split off into two large groups by language, English and French, and then further into about 3-4 subgroups which were led by guides who lived on the island. They gave us an abbreviated tour since everyone was soaked even under the cover of the trees, but it still ended up being a nice 45 walk around the island which included spotting some pretty darn cute birds.

Unfortunately, heavy rain also meant that it was hard to keep the camera gear dry, hence the lack of pictures from this portion of the trip.

Bird spotting on Cousine Island




Next stop was Cureiuse Island, where we first stopped for lunch under the cover of a picnic area where several BBQ pits were setup. There were many stations, presumably reserved for each of the different tour operators. Ours cooked up a delicious lunch which included salad, rice, and grilled fish and chicken that had been slathered in a traditional Seychellois Creole marinade that was absolutely delicious. Everyone used this time to dry off, and a giant tortoise came over to hang out with us while we ate.

Normally, we would have walked from here to the other end of the island where the giant tortoises are located, but for today we jumped back in the boat and rode over.

The giant tortoise sanctuary was awesome - hundreds of giant tortoises were just hanging out here. They were in all different states of activity - laying down, standing up, completely in their shell, chilling in the water, and even getting it on! And yes, they mate as slowly as you'd expect.

It was really fun to play with and feed the tortoises and was a unique experience to be so up-close-and-personal with them.

Giant tortoises at Curieuse Island






Mating season


Feeding the tortoises fresh leaves


Last stop of the day was St. Pierre Island. Well, to call it an island is a bit of a stretch - it's basically a rock formation in the middle of the ocean. St. Pierre is extremely picturesque and known as a great spot for snorkeling. It was extremely wavy near here and visibility wasn't great, so we spent just 30 minutes here before calling it a day.

St. Pierre Island


The next day on the way to the airport, we made sure to stop by Vallee de Mai which is a UNESCO heritage site located on Praslin Island. It's home to the endemic Coco de Mer, and is the alleged location of the Garden of Eden.

Guides were available on-site, and we spent about an hour walking through Vallee de Mai with ours. He provided a lot of information about its history, as well as descriptions of all the unique plants, trees, and fruits inside.

Most interesting things we picked up? The Coco de Mer is the world's most expensive nut and is typically used in high-end cosmetics. As such, each nut costs tens of thousands of dollars, and can take anywhere from 6-10 years to form. Oh, and there are male and female Coco de Mer trees, which have reproductive organs that look eerily similar to...well I'll let you bet the judge below.

Vallee de Mai entrance




Learning about the Coco de Mer's reproductive process


Coco de Mer tree


Petrified Coco de Mer tree


Watching the snails climb down the tree

Last edited by sfoactuary; Oct 15, 2014 at 3:34 pm
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 3:37 pm
  #50  
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Originally Posted by offerendum
Lists I agree about La Digue, wonderful place.
Seems like we have very similar tastes and opinions!
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Old Oct 16, 2014, 12:53 am
  #51  
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Originally Posted by sfoactuary
Seems like we have very similar tastes and opinions!
OK, options limited on Seychelles, but I also enjoyed Cousine, Curieuse, St. Pierre and Valley de Mai.
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Old Oct 16, 2014, 12:16 pm
  #52  
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Hilton Seychelles Northolme Resort and Spa

Getting there/Check-in

Of the major chains, Hilton is king of the Seychelles with 3 properties, including the Hilton Northolme and Doubletree Allamanda on Mahe Island and Hilton Labriz located off the coast of Mahe on a separate island accessible by either boat or helicopter. We had hoped to carve out a few days to spend at the Hilton Labriz but the timing just didn't work out, and it wouldn't have made sense to stay there for our short 1-night stay.

All three hotels were available on the date that I needed, and 95,000 Hilton points later I had a room booked at the Hilton Northolme.

After exploring Vallee De Mai, we took an early afternoon flight back to Mahe and arrived at the Hilton Northolme around 3pm. We were dropped off at the lobby but found it unattended. About 15 minutes later someone showed up to check us in.

There are about 40 rooms at the Hilton Northolme, all of which have ocean-views and some with direct ocean access. In addition, construction is currently underway where approximately 15 new villas are being built next door which will each feature their own private pool. From what they told me, construction is slated to finish early next year, and it will be interesting to see if these new villas will be available for cash upgrades from the standard redemption, or only as premium room redemptions.

Hilton Northolme lobby


Empty front desk


Views of the villas from lobby


Our Villa

After check-in, we were led up a flight of stairs to the top of the hill, and further up more stairs until we reached our villa. Each villa was a duplex, and we were assigned to the room on the bottom. It's unclear if someone was occupying the top floor, because we didn't hear any noise from above during our stay.

On the way to the room, we passed by a cannonball tree, which gets its name from the extremely heavy nuts that are grown. This is one of two cannonball trees on the island of Mahe.

Cannonball tree


The villas have a very wood-sy, rustic cabin feel to them. The lighting in the room was not very good, which usually means that the hotel is trying to hide something in those dark areas. But in general, the room was very clean and well-kept, and would be more than comfortable for our quick 1-night stay.

The woman that checked us took us outside to the patio, and after asking if we needed anything else, left us there to enjoy the views. A while later, we were ready to head back inside, and thought the door was stuck since it wouldn't open. After throwing my shoulder into it a few times, we finally realized that it wasn't stuck, and in fact she had actually locked us out as she left! And this wasn't one of those doors that automatically locked, she had actually turned the lock.

Nothing worse than two screaming people repeatedly yelling "HELP" to disrupt a peaceful afternoon nap. Sorry, neighbors. Eventually, one of them came outside to their patio, and helped us call down to the lobby. I guess that's one way to get to know your neighbors.

Villa exterior


Outdoor patio furniture


Views from our balcony


After our little ordeal, we finally got back inside and had a chance to check out the rest of the room. There was a nice welcome sign on the bed, along with two sun hats. Also waiting for us was a plate of scones, honey and jams which was perfect since we hadn't eaten lunch yet.

The bathroom features double vanities, a large soaking tub, and a spacious but open shower. I'm a messy eater, and must be a messy shower-er as well since the bathroom was soaked by the time I was done.

Bedroom


Welcome gift


Bathroom




Resort Facilities

Overall, the resort is on the smaller side and as such, they offer a wide range of both complimentary and paid off-resort activities for guests. With just a 1-night stay we weren't able to participate in any activities, but did look them up online as part of our research. Other than the rooms and the beach, the remaining resort facilities include a swimming pool, fitness center, and spa.

After settling in, we walked around and enjoyed the fantastic views from all different parts of the resort. It just so happened that Paul Allen's megayacht was anchored off the coast, and I fired up the long-distance zoom on my camera to try and spy on the yacht-goers.

Enjoying the views all around the resort




Spying on Paul Allen's megayacht


The swimming pool was sparsely used, and unfortunately we didn't have time to take a dip. It provided fantastic ocean views, with Silhouette Island visible in the distance around the trees.

Swimming pool


We also walked down to the beach which was slightly busier, but still wasn't very crowded. There was a nice selection of beach equipment for use. Overall, the beach is quite small but was very swimmable as it is situated in a cove with several nearby rock formations breaking up the waves.

Hilton Northolme beach






Food and Beverage

We only had time for one meal, which meant that it was a big decision choosing between the hotel's 3 restaurants which include the Ocean View bar, Les Cocotiers restaurant which is an a la carte semi-formal dining option, and the Hilltop restaurant serving an Asian buffet on that night.

We wanted a lighter, less formal option, and decided to try the Ocean View bar. We were sold as soon as we walked out and saw the amazing views, and knew that it would also be a perfect place to catch sunset.

Ocean View bar




We started with a milkshake, which was brought out with some bar snacks as we waited for the main courses. Keeping with the dining theme of our trip, as you can guess we ordered a pizza, along with the catch of the day which had been perfectly grilled and served with rice and Creole tomato sauce.



Catch of the day


Seafood pizza


The food was great, and the views were even better. It was the perfect spot to catch a final sunset from our trip to the Seychelles, and marked the end to our island adventure. Overall, a very different island experience than the Maldives, and highlighted by our visit to two of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

One final sunset


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Old Oct 16, 2014, 1:23 pm
  #53  
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The other cannonball tree is at the Botanical Garden. But can`t really remember it.
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Old Oct 16, 2014, 11:34 pm
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Originally Posted by offerendum
The other cannonball tree is at the Botanical Garden. But can`t really remember it.
Ah, yes that seems to ring a bell. We didn't have time to visit the Botanical Garden or downtown Victoria, but from your trip report doesn't sound like we missed much.
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Old Oct 17, 2014, 2:44 am
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Originally Posted by sfoactuary
but from your trip report doesn't sound like we missed much.
Not too much....
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Old Oct 20, 2014, 4:32 pm
  #56  
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Emirates Business Class Mahe, Seychelles to Dubai

Without enough Alaska Airlines miles to take us home from the Seychelles, I had to come up with another plan. After running through a bunch of scenarios, the one that made the most sense would be to purchase tickets on Emirates from the Seychelles back to Dubai, and continue on a separate Cathay Pacific ticket back to the US via Hong Kong.

As an added bonus, I had a sizable stash of Emirates Skywards miles credited from our stay at the Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort and Spa that I used to upgrade us to Business Class.

Now that we were 1.5 weeks into our trip, jet lag was long gone and meant that the 8:40AM departure would be painful. The wake-up call rang at 5:30AM, followed by a knock at the door a few minutes later to collect our luggage.

At least they came with breakfast and coffee in hand. Since we'd be departing before breakfast, the hotel was nice enough to pack us a continental breakfast of pastries and yogurt to-go.

We jumped in the taxi, and drifted in and out of sleep until reaching the airport shortly after 7AM. We didn't have the chance to explore downtown Victoria at all, but at least I was able to snap a drive-by photo of the mini-Big Ben statue.

Mini-Big Ben in downtown Victoria


After checking-in and passing through security, we headed upstairs to the Salon Vallee de Mai lounge where we were able to relax, and most importantly, grab a 2nd cup of coffee. There were just a handful of commercial flights leaving during this time of day the lounge was very empty.

The lounge featured plenty of seating and there was a small selection of cereals, pastries and fruits available for breakfast.









The wifi speed was surprisingly quick, but I passed the time with a different form of entertainment and enjoyed the great views of the tarmac.



Plane spotting on the tarmac - Kenyan, Mihin Lanka, and what appears to be a military plane


Our A340-500


About 30 minutes prior to departure, the boarding announcement came, and we joined the great migration downstairs to the gate. Our return flight to Dubai would feature the same A340-500 that we had taken down to the Seychelles, but this time we'd been demoted to Business Class.

The Business Class cabin had a very similar color scheme and style, and is configured in a 2x2x2 layout. With such a light load today there was nobody else in our row.

Upon taking our seats, initial impressions was that they were quite spacious and comfortable. However, later on into the flight as we tried to recline and sleep, we found the seats to be quite oddly-shaped and awkward. They seemed to fold up in something like a cradle that had me contorting my body in three different directions with a dip in the lower back, and then a hump around the knees. Even my wife who could find a way to fall asleep on a park bench was having trouble getting settled into these seats, so we just sat upright for most of the flight.





The IFE system? Just as hard to use as the one in First Class. Oddly, the touch-screen on these seats was better and more responsive than the ones in the First Class cabin.







It was a moot point for me anyways, since I had everything I needed on my iPad backup IFE system, and spent the next few hours with Jax Teller and the rest of the Sons of Anarchy.

About 30 minutes into the flight, the meal service started with a hot towel and drink service. Even though we had nibbled on some pastries earlier that morning, I was starving and was more than ready for a hot breakfast. I couldn't turn down the scrambled eggs option which proved to be great.

Overall, a very good flight for our first experience with Emirates' Business Class. However, while the seats weren't necessarily an issue for the 4-hour flight, if these are the same ones in use on longer-haul flights then I wouldn't say that they are competitive with the lay-flats offered by Cathay Pacific as an example.





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Old Oct 20, 2014, 7:10 pm
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Nice job catching the Octopus!
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Old Oct 21, 2014, 10:32 pm
  #58  
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Originally Posted by MonThruThurs
Nice job catching the Octopus!
Thanks! Now that would be a trip report I would love to see.
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Old Oct 22, 2014, 1:37 am
  #59  
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The "funny" thing is, that the breakfast-menue at First was more or less the same.
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Old Oct 22, 2014, 11:48 am
  #60  
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Originally Posted by offerendum
The "funny" thing is, that the breakfast-menue at First was more or less the same.
You're right, comparing the Business Class menu to the First Class menu we had on the outbound, it looks like First Class gets a mushroom omelet instead of a cheese one, and French toast instead of banana pancakes, everything else is exactly the same.

Plus, in my mind, banana pancakes are better than french toast!
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