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A conference and some hiking: to Berlin and the Alps in LH F!

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A conference and some hiking: to Berlin and the Alps in LH F!

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Old Jun 24, 2014, 6:39 am
  #1  
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A conference and some hiking: to Berlin and the Alps in LH F!

Summary: DEN-YYZ-MUC-TXL/TXL-ZRH/ZRH-FRA-DEN in UA "F" and LH F with photos

This trip was originally going to be a rather boring round-trip in coach across the Atlantic to attend a conference in Berlin. I had miles to burn with UA and AA but I wanted to use those for something like Southeast Asia rather than just a transatlantic.

And then United announced their devaluation.

That didn’t change my plans much, I was still more focused on scoring NH or OZ rather than LH, but I did start working on a plan to use up my stash before the deval kicked in.

And then Lufthansa screwed up.

I was spending three weeks traveling around Japan when LH accidentally opened up every seat on their new YYZ-MUC route for partner redemptions for the entire summer. I was sitting on the train from Kyoto to Nara when a mention of this insane amount of inventory scrolled across my Twitter feed. Knowing I needed to be in Berlin this summer anyways, I switched over to the UA app on my phone and immediately booked a YYZ-MUC roundtrip for the dates I needed.

I figured just hoping over to Berlin was a waste so I decided to head to the Alps for some relaxation after the conference. There’s a wonderful thermal spring complex in Austria I visited several years ago and I’ve been longing to return.

Once I got back to the hotel that night, I used Skype to call UA back in the states and add on the domestic legs on either end of the trip, turning it into DEN-YYZ-MUC-TXL/TXL-ZRH/MUC-YYZ-DEN, taking the train from ZRH into Austria and then continuing to MUC for my return flight.

There wasn’t any inventory for a same-day connection in YYZ in either direction so I was forced to deal with overnights. Given that DEN-YYZ is a UX flight, I was fine with that for the outbound—too many bad experiences with the reliability of UA’s RJ operations.

Eventually inventory opened for a same-day connection on the return. I also decided I’d rather spend some time with friends in London rather than go to the Alps so I called UA to switch some things around (prior to the devaluation).

That was a disaster.

In retrospect, I should’ve realized I had a bad agent pretty quickly. She immediately said my existing itinerary was illegal but she switched me to a same-day connection in YYZ on the return so I continued with my switch to London. No idea why I didn’t just hang up.

I knew the inventory I needed was available so I tried to feed her dates and flight numbers, keeping the exact same MUC-YYZ, just changing the intra-EU LH legs.

She immediately insisted I couldn’t keep MUC-YYZ because the itinerary was still illegal *and proceeded to switch me to a UA flight out of LHR instead! I refused the changes and asked her to leave the itinerary exactly as-is. She reluctantly agreed and I ended the call.

I thought that was the end of it. And then ten minutes later I get an email from UA with all my LH segments gone, the entire trip was now on UA!
So I called in again, assuming the worst. At this point, I was just going to cancel the entire thing and buy a coach ticket to Germany (on AA, of course ), abandoning my time in the Alps.

I explained the situation to the new agent and asked if there was anything we could do to reinstate the LH segments. I assumed they were gone and LH wouldn’t give them back since it was *way* more than 15 days out and there was no way LH had any inventory for partners available.

Four hours later (not exaggerating), this angel of an agent had somehow gotten LH to return the segments! Much of that four hours was a mystery to me as I just sat on hold while she first talked to her counterparts at LH and then to the rate desk to reinstate everything. The only concession I had to make was that she insisted the ZRH/MUC open jaw was illegal, so I agreed to backtrack to ZRH and take a connection from there to MUC. Fine, whatever. So long as the TATL legs are back in place.

As for hotels, I had a nice pile of Carlson points sitting around thanks to US Bank so I decided to burn some of those. Thanks to their awesome last-night-free feature on redemptions, I booked two nights at the Radisson Blu Berlin and two nights at the Radisson Blu ZRH for 100k all-in. The rest of my nights in Berlin were at the Park Inn Alexanderplatz (they had the conference group rate). Then I added two nights at the Hilton Innsbruck to finish it off (paid, not redeemed).

Finally, one night at the glorious Hampton Inn YYZ on the outbound.

Then, while in Berlin, LH finally opened up space on the FRA-DEN nonstop for my return. Yes, it would be old F, but a nonstop in old LH F (in the 747 upper deck no less) was miles better than new F followed by three hours in YYZ and three hours in UA “F” on a CR7. This change was a no-brainer. Plus, I was able to work in a five hour layover in FRA for what would likely be my first and only visit to the FCT given that I no longer have any viable path for redeeming for LH F.

Amazingly, the LH 744 originally scheduled for my flight went MX and LH swapped in another 744 with new F!

Contents:

Last edited by txflyer77; Jun 26, 2014 at 9:10 pm
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 6:48 am
  #2  
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Part 1: UA DEN-YYZ

After a frantic night of packing (I always procrastinate on that), I woke up to see that the aircraft scheduled for my flight was already two hours delayed. Knowing how UA’s regional operations tend to fall apart near the end of the day, I started exploring options.

After lunch I walked from the office over to the Boulder Transit Center for the ride to DEN. Certainly not a glamorous way to start a trip in first class but it’s hard to be $12 each way.


Wonderful way to start a trip in F

Shortly after reaching the UC in DEN, UA finally announced a delay of 1:15 on my flight. I thought about trying to switch to an AC flight leaving at 4:30 but foolishly decided to stick with my UA flight (and I was worried about an incompetent agent wrecking the rest of my itinerary).


Beautiful day for flying at DEN!

The creeping delays began to set in and another part had to be repaired on our a/c which took quite some time.


Everyone at the gate watching this guy try to fix our a/c.

We wound up with a delay of 2:45, getting in to YYZ around 1:30am.


Why oh why am I seemingly always stuck on this aircraft?


Midnight junkfood snack.

I called the shuttle for the Hampton Inn I’d booked for the night and was asleep as soon as I reached my room.
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 6:55 am
  #3  
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Part 2: Toronto


For the price, perfectly fine.

I had originally planned to wake up early, store my suitcase at YYZ and take a walking tour of Toronto that was highly rated on TripAdvisor. Since I didn’t fall asleep until 2:30, I opted to sleep in instead. I checked out at 9:15 and then sat around in the lobby until 10 since the 24 hour shuttle was only hourly. I stashed my bag at the Samsonite store in Terminal 1 at YYZ and caught the 192 bus to the metro, making my way towards Kensington.

A friend had told me to check out Cafe Pamenar in Kensington. Okay but not incredible. The croissant was a little lifeless and the cappuccino, while passable, wasn’t as good as I’d been led to expect.


(Sorry, already took a bite of the croissant)

I wandered around Kensington for a bit before heading a block over to Toronto’s Chinatown. I walked up and down Spadina Street poking my head into the little shops and grocers, eventually finding my way to a Chinese bakery where I grabbed a pork bun and a few egg tarts.

I’m heading to HKG for six days later this year so I viewed this as a little preview.


Interesting propaganda in Chinatown

It was only 12:30 and my flight was until 5:45 but I was sweaty and tired from lack of sleep so I started my way back to YYZ. It’s not hard but it is a bit of a trek. Streetcar to metro to bus, though at C$3.00 I can’t complain.

For those who are curious, YYZ doesn’t offer storage lockers but you can leave bags at the Samsonite store in T1. The charge for my bag was C$5.60 for the day. It’s not easy to find however. When you walk into the T1 check in level, go all the way to the right to the “A” check-in aisle by the AC Vacations desk. Turn left and head towards the F gates security entrance. Right before security is the Samsonite store on the right.

I retrieved by bag but LH checkin wasn’t going to open for another 15 minutes so I spent the few CAD coins in my pocket at Starbucks—I needed the caffeine anyways.

I worked at Starbucks for about an hour before finally heading to LH checkin. No one in line, fortunately. Check-in was quick. The agents offered to come escort me from the lounge to the gate but I declined. I always find that particular service to be incredibly awkward.

There was no one in front of me in the priority security lane but once it merged with the regular lane, things slowed to a halt. After about ten minutes of just standing there by the X-ray machine, the line finally moved and I was through security on my way to the MLL.

For a North American lounge, this was pretty nice. Certainly a huge step above the UC. I poured myself a tall glass of ice water to cool down before asking to use one of the shower cubicles.


Ready to go!

The MLL showers are nothing special but I was pretty sweaty after walking around Toronto all day. For some reason I didn’t expect this city to be so humid (and this is from someone who lived in Houston for six years!). I took a shower and changed into some lightweight clothes, having read about LH’s famous sauna cabin.



I avoided the food and alcohol since I was soon to board LH F though the selection looked pretty decent. Sandwiches, salad, some self-service liquor.

The lounge became much more crowded after my shower as we approached the nightly wave of eastbound TATLs but I found a seat and got to work on this trip report, sipping a club soda.

Next up, LH new F on the A330.
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 7:14 am
  #4  
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Part 3: LH F YYZ-MUC

I started walking over to the gate about five minutes before boarding was set to begin. About halfway there—before the boarding time printed on my boarding pass—they announce final call! Should’ve asked for the agent to escort me to the gate after all. Fortunately I still made it with time to spare. Looking back, I actually wonder if I misheard an announcement for the FRA flight since there were still 100+ people waiting to board the MUC flight.

Running to a gate is not the most civilized way to start your first experience of long-haul int’l F.

The day before, this flight was showing F6A0 so I was looking forward to only sharing the cabin with one other passenger. At take-off, that’s how it was. I was in 1A, he was in 1K. The D/F seats are slightly forward of the A/K seats so I couldn’t actually seem him despite being in the same row. Nice touch.


1A and 2A.


Legroom. Took me till the end of the flight to realize you could move the ottoman closer.


Television and LH's signature rose.


Blurry look at the empty row behind me.


Bar already setup by the time I boarded.

As I boarded, an FA took my blazer and asked if I would like a beverage. Champagne, thank you.

He also brought over the pajamas and amenity kit. The pajamas were nice, I changed into them shortly after takeoff before the meal service began. Better to spill on their clothes than mine. I know others have complained about the weight but I found the pants to be rather light, though the cabin was still far too warm after the meal service.

A few comments on the cabin: first of all, I love the suede walls. The cabin just feels more relaxed and cozier since I’m not starting at plastic. The seat is, of course, fantastic, though I wished I’d realized sooner that you can move the ottoman towards you. I’m somewhat short and couldn’t come close to reaching it in it’s default position but I didn’t notice that control until near the end of the flight.

The FA told me he would make up 2A as my bed after the meal service so I could switch back and forth as I like. Terrific.

I was afraid galley noise might be an issue in 1A but the “hallway” between the F cabin and galley is so long I never heard a thing.

After I settled in, another FA brought over champagne, a glass of water and a ramekin of macadamia nuts. Personally, I think the small drink table is a little too far from the seat. I had to lean forward to reach my champagne each time.



I was a little sweaty after my sprint to the gate so I stepped into the lav to wipe the sweat off. I looked at the “refreshment towel” but I can never stand the scent of those things so a lowly paper towel had to do.

A few minutes later the captain announced our pushback and we rolled out towards the runways for takeoff.


(some nice plainspotting on the way out)


EK A380 with some UA RJs and AC props in front.


Flying past Toronto. (I think?)

Once we reached our cruising altitude the FAs began the meal service and brought over a moist towel. Interestingly, ex-Canada flights appear to have different menus than ex-US flights, at least based on this month’s menu listed in the LH forum.




More champagne as I browse the menu.



















Having read my share of LH trip reports before this, I opted for the cod as it’d had good comments by others. I was not disappointed.

The off-menu amuse bouche was some twist on a spring roll. Okay, but the sauce could’ve been spicier IMO. Nice napkin though.



We begin with caviar service (and more champagne). The FA offered another serving but I declined.




I did take a pretzel roll and some garlic bread though.

I asked for the entire selection of appetizers, plus the salad. All very tasty, especially the stuffed peppers—quite refreshing.


From left to right: grilled tandoori chicken, stuffed peppers, lobster claw.


Finally, the cod.

The fish was very well cooked and the sauce complimented it nicely. The vegetables and rice were passable, as is so often the case in-flight. The rice was a little overcooked.


Love the salt and pepper grinders.

For dessert I chose the warm bread pudding. Another common theme in the LH trip reports I’ve read is LH’s rather absurd approach to desserts so I was glad to find something simple and tasty.


Great dessert.


After dessert I asked for some decaf coffee and was offered some pralines as well. I meant to ask for a Baileys or a dram of the monthly whisky selection but I was so full I just didn’t want anything else.


Lovely sunset as we begin our TATL crossing.

Truthfully I did not sleep well *at all* on this flight. Partly due to the warmth of the cabin, partly because LH446 takes off at 17:45EST. Meal service was complete around 20:00 which is far earlier than I normally go to sleep so I mostly tossed and turned in 2A.

After about two hours of trying and failing to sleep, I gave up and returned to 1A with about three hours to go.


Sunrise as we cross Ireland.

I asked for some ice water and splashed a little on my face to wake up. About two hours out I asked for some orange juice as the rest of the cabin began to wake. Terrific juice, tasted very fresh.


Great juice.

My breakfast order had been taken shortly after takeoff and I’d asked for the eggs. Unfortunately I was never offered muesli or the cold cuts in addition—I would’ve like the muesli but didn’t ask for it.


Omelet, ham and potatoes.

The breakfast was fantastic, holding up to LH’s reputation. The croissant was okay but certainly good enough for 40,000 feet!


Croissant.


Coffee, at last.

After breakfast I read my Kindle while sipping more orange juice and coffee, trying to get as much caffeine as I could given that I’d gotten no sleep on the flight. I didn’t want to fall asleep until nighttime in Berlin so I just sucked back coffee all day long.


Coming in to MUC over Bavaria.


Always love external cameras on these flights.

We arrived at a jetway gate so no car transfer for me today. My onward flight to TXL also had a jetway so I actually had to schlepp across MUC.


Looking back at our A333.

Last edited by txflyer77; Oct 4, 2014 at 11:22 am
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 8:33 pm
  #5  
 
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Great start! Look forward to the rest! Brings back memories from last month! Hope to have my first installment up by weeks end!
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 9:05 pm
  #6  
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Part 4: LH MUC FCL and LH C MUC-TXL

I followed the signs and arrived at the fork for Schengen and non-Schengen onward connections. I was rather confused. I knew the MUC FCL had its own passport control but there was no sign for F pax indicating what to do. There was a post that had the red F logo but no information. I just stood there and eventually an LH rep appeared and told me to proceed through security but not immigration and head to the lounge for passport control. This is something that really should’ve been told to pax in-flight.

After the long (and crowded) walk to the FCL, I’m sure I looked pretty bad. Fortunately there was no queue at the lounge. In my tired blur I checked in and found a seat.



The lounge was rather crowded though given its size this is hardly a surprise. I asked for another coffee and then went to find out about a shower—and a Lufty rubber duck! There was a slight wait so I went back to my seat and asked for an orange juice. The shower was wonderful, definitely the right choice after a redeye TATL.







After my shower I took one of the work booths and made a few calls back home and checked in with the office, then I headed to the restaurant area. The buffet was decked out with World Cup gear. Sorry, I'm an American, not a soccer fan. Being from San Antonio, I was far more interested in how the Spurs had done against the Heat while I was in the air.



I chose some muesli and smoked salmon from the buffet and ordered two scrambled eggs and some Earl Grey—plus a glass of champagne.





(LH really needs to do something about the fruit flies buzzing about the place)

After (second) breakfast I moved back to the seating area. The crowd had dissipated by this point.





Eventually I made my way out of the lounge () and to the gate for my flight to TXL. A slight delay but not enough to head back to the lounge so I just waited in the crowded gate area.


Hooray Eurobiz!


So much Lufthansa


The meal was pretty lousy so I just poked at it a bit before dozing off for the hour-ish flight north.


I also discovered I really don’t like Warsteiner beer.

Next up: a fish tank of unusual size
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 9:37 pm
  #7  
 
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Go Spurs Go! Great start to your report.
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 9:55 pm
  #8  
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Part 5: Radisson Blu Berlin

I made the mistake of taking the TXL bus to Alexanderplatz. Crowded, hot and standing-room only. I definitely took a cab on my way back.

I had two nights at the Radisson Blu. The hotel is in a great location—just off Alexanderplatz next to the Dom Kirche and a short walk from nice areas like Auguststrasse.

I reached the hotel around 1PM which was a little early for check-in, so I anticipated that I would just drop off my bags and walk around a bit. The agent said I'd been upgraded to a view room, but it wasn't available yet. Lesser rooms were available immediately but I was willing to wait. Then, after taking my credit card, she said the upgraded room would be available in 20 minutes. I needed another shower after sweating my shirt off on the TXL bus so I decided to just wait at the hotel bar. Then, just as I was about to order a drink, she brought over my key. *shrug*



The giant aquarium in the atrium is certainly cool, and part of the reason I booked this hotel (that and there aren’t any other great CC proprieties in Berlin), but it’s a novelty that becomes pretty boring after the third or fourth elevator ride.

Also, the key readers at this hotel are the most sensitive ones I’ve ever encountered. When I first got to my room I spent a few minutes trying to get in the door and then returned to check-in because I thought my key was invalid. The elevators had the same problem (though at least the elevators *have* key readers—I’m sure they’d be filled with non-guests trying to get a photo of the aquarium otherwise).

The room was nice, though small. It was purportedly an “upgrade” due to my CC gold status. Since I travel solo, suite upgrades don’t really interest me anyways. The view, however, was nice.


Ignore my pants.





The welcome amenity was certainly the oddest I’ve ever been given. Nice gesture but what am I supposed to do with two jars of honey?



The next day I went down to the fitness area. The gym itself was extremely basic—two treadmills, two ellipticals. The pool was rather small. The only redeeming point was the sauna area. Dry sauna, wet sauna, foot baths and cold showers. ^ (Sorry, no photos )
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 1:17 am
  #9  
 
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Nice report so far, keep the pace up !
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 9:39 am
  #10  
 
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Great report! I'm headed for Berlin in a couple of weeks, any pointers would be/are greatly appreciated (it's been about 15 years since my last visit there).

Last edited by ok2uselane; Jun 25, 2014 at 9:47 am
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 9:46 am
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ok2uselane
Great report! I'm headed for Berlin in a couple of weeks, any pointers would be greatly appreciated (it's been about 15 years since my last visit there).
Berlin is the next post! I'll try to post it this evening.

Definitely go to the California Breakfast Slam. Funniest menu I've ever read. The westberlin coffee shop near Checkpoint Charlie has the best cheesecake you'll ever eat! The Prater biergarten in Prenzlauerberg is pretty good as well.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 9:55 am
  #12  
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Nice Report!

@ ok2uselane: Any specific likings?
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 4:16 pm
  #13  
 
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Originally Posted by txflyer77
Berlin is the next post! I'll try to post it this evening.

Definitely go to the California Breakfast Slam. Funniest menu I've ever read. The westberlin coffee shop near Checkpoint Charlie has the best cheesecake you'll ever eat! The Prater biergarten in Prenzlauerberg is pretty good as well.
Great, thanks!

Originally Posted by offerendum
Nice Report!

@ ok2uselane: Any specific likings?
I usually just go with the flow when I'm on holiday. So, not really.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 7:30 pm
  #14  
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Part 6: Berlin

I purposefully flew in a few days before the conference in order to spend some time in Berlin. I'd been once before but only for a day and a half—I was stopping off on my way from Munich to Prague the long way around. (I stayed at the Grand Hyatt that time, great hotel)

After arriving in Berlin on the first day, I didn’t want to fall asleep until nightfall (which turned out not to be until after 10pm…) so I a headed to the nearby area of Auguststrasse, a neighborhood which is essentially a Brooklyn annex in Berlin. A friend had tad me to visit a cafe called The Barn. Great coffee and apfelstrudel. Plus, it was their one-year birthday so espressos were free.



After that I had a pastrami sandwich nearby at what must be the most oddly decorated deli on Earth. Giant close-ups of… hamsters. The pastrami was excellent though.





That got me to around 8pm at which point I just couldn’t keep going so I returned to the Radisson and fell asleep.

Of course, I woke up at 6am the next morning. I’m sure somewhere in Berlin there’s a party at the time of day but I wasn’t about to find it. So I wandered around. I walked from Alexanderplatz to the Brandenburg Gate, then around the adjacent park and then all the way down to Neukolln, for breakfast at the California Breakfast Slam.

A brunch Borat would be proud of. The entire menu is hilarious. And delicious.



I ordered the eggs plate with two eggs from a chicken named Torsten.



And a bloody mary and coffee.


Terrific bloody mary.

I walked up the canal a bit and stopped in at a bakery where I grabbed this strawberry torte.



After that I headed back to my hotel for a nap.

That evening, I headed to the Prater biergarten in Prenzlauerberg for dinner and to enjoy some World Cup matches since that seemed like an appropriate activity for Berlin.





Berlin must have a competition to see how ironic a bar can be. I read over some popular options online and finally decided on a cocktail bar near the biergarten whose theme was Samuel Beckett. Sure, why not.

There's no sign on the front, you just have to know the door is there. You ring the bell and the barman comes to let you in. The drinks are fantastic, I'll give them that, though I did walk by the place twice before finding it.

The next morning I did some obligatory tourist stuff and headed to the Topography of Terror with its section of the Wall.



And then to a nearby cafe called westberlin. Wonderful coffee and amazing cheesecake.



After that it was time for the conference to begin.

Next up: more photos of airplane food. This is, after all, Flyertalk.
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Old Jun 25, 2014, 9:43 pm
  #15  
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Part 7: Park Inn Alexanderplatz

I moved down the street to the Park Inn for the nights of the conference.

I have almost nothing good to say about this dump.

I knew it wasn’t going to be great. In the Carlson forum it’s mentioned that this hotel largely caters to tour groups and that was definitely true. Check-in took forever as there was fifteen people in front of me and no priority line. Fortunately I was upgraded to a corner room.


The welcome amenity wasn't bad.




What a dumb design.


View to the north.


View to the west.

The room was in a horrible state of repair. Odd stains everywhere and a joke of an AC system. I actually called down to figure out how to turn it on. Turns out it was, it’s just only meant to output an imperceptible amount of cold air. The clerk who answered my call told me the tiny holes in the ceiling were the output. Sure enough, a worthless stream of slightly cool air.

Fortunately, I was only staying here for the days of the conference I was attending so I was barely in the room.

While I was here, my thrice-daily checks of award inventory for alternate routes back home finally turned up the FRA-DEN nonstop on the date I needed. It’d been showing F8A8 for weeks so I figured LH would open it up. The Park Inn’s wifi could barely sustain the Skype feed to UA () but I was able to make the change, with some great patience on the part of the UA agent on the other end of the line. I think it took me about six tries to read my credit card to her.

Check-out was also an ordeal. When I first booked the room, I mistakenly booked only two nights when I needed three. At that point, all their site would present me were pre-paid rates for whatever reasons so I booked that. At check-in the agent made sure I wouldn’t have to change rooms. But at check-out, the agent insisted that I owed for all three nights. I pulled up the email on my phone showing that it was a pre-paid reservation but he refused to deviate from what his computer showed him. I had a flight soon so I just dealt with it and made sure to take the receipt. I’ll be filing a dispute with Chase as soon as I get home. When I got the the LH lounge at TXL I checked my credit card statement and sure enough, there’s the prepaid charge from the Park Inn. Hey Radisson, enjoy losing the dispute!
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