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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 6:27 pm
  #16  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 842 Economy Class (IPC-SCL)

Mataveri International Airport is tiny. With only LAN Airlines servicing the island, there is no need for anything larger than one hall and one departure gate. In fact, with the cancellation of the Lima to Easter Island route starting in March 2013, there will only be two other destinations: Santiago and Papeete. The check-in counters were at the very end of the hall, and had a separate line for Premium Business passengers despite the economy lines being mostly empty.





Once our bags were checked in, we walked over to the other end of the hall, where there were a number of gift shops packed to the brim with tourists looking for last minute souvenirs. About an hour before departure, the doors to the boarding room opened, and passengers were screened via a quick security check before filing into a large waiting area. There were plenty of open seats, as well as more gift shops and a small snack shop. Passengers were welcome to walk outside from here and take pictures of the aircraft sitting on the tarmac, although we were not allowed to walk onto the tarmac until boarding began.



Once boarding was called, a mad rush of people crowded into the departure gate hallway, and we slowly made our way to the front, where our tickets were torn. Once passengers got onto the tarmac, everyone took their time snapping some final pictures of Easter Island before boarding.











LAN Airlines 842
Boeing 767-300ER
Easter Island (IPC) - Santiago (SCL)
Thursday November 8, 2012
Departure: 2:10 PM (scheduled)
Arrival: 8:55 PM (scheduled)
Duration: 4h 45m (scheduled)
Seat: 27A (Economy)


When I entered our Boeing 767-300ER, I was pleasantly surprised to see the new-style interiors. Even though both the business and economy seats were very similar to the old version, the refresh nevertheless looked incredibly modern and clean. Incidentally, these new seats are identical to those featured on LAN's new Boeing 787s (once they are actually allowed to fly).


New Premium Business


New economy







I selected a window seat in hopes of catching a good view of Easter Island as we took off. However, I wasn't exactly sure which side of the plane would be ideal. Luckily, I made the right choice by sitting on the left side. It was a beautiful sight to behold as Easter Island gradually faded from sight. Once we broke through the thick layer of low clouds, it was clear skies all the way to Santiago.








One last look at Easter Island



I got to playing around with the AVOD, and was relieved to see that they finally fixed the dreaded slow-response issue on the older generation system. This new version was quick and responsive, and the screen was bright and clear. With a rather short flight time, however, I didn't bother watching a full movie. Instead, I caught a few episodes of the LAN travel series, which gave an informative introduction to a number of South American cities.



Service was friendly and efficient, no different from any other LAN flight I'd been on thus far. Meal and drink service began approximately an hour in, and we were given a choice between chicken or pasta. While extremely simple and not very pleasing to the eye, the chicken with rice was appetizing, and filling enough to tide me over for the remainder of the flight.



As we traveled east, the sun quickly set. And by the time we started our descent into Santiago, it was completely dark outside. We landed smoothly and exited the aircraft via jet bridge and into the terminal. Because Easter Island to Santiago is considered a domestic flight, no immigration paperwork was needed, and we also saved the $160 USD reciprocity fee that Chile charges American citizens upon entering through Santiago International Airport.

After picking up our bags, we booked a ride to the Crown Plaza Santiago at the Taxi Oficial booth right inside the arrivals hall. Although this option may be more expensive than hailing down a random taxi outside, it is always better to play it safe when it comes to taxis in foreign countries. I think that is a far better option than getting ripped off or worse. We paid 16,000 CLP (~$34 USD) for the one-way ride, but if you decide to book a Taxi Oficial for the return trip as well, they will give you a discount. Since it was fairly late already, the drive into town took less than 30 minutes.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 6:36 pm
  #17  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Crowne Plaza Santiago

I selected the Crowne Plaza Santiago primarily because of its excellent central location. The historical neighborhood of Barrio Lastarria, filled with restaurants, theaters, museums, and bars is just a five minute walk from the hotel, while the bohemian enclave of Bellavista is a ten minute stroll in the opposite direction. The convenient Baquedano metro station is only two blocks down the street, and connects to both Line 1 and Line 5. The hotel has good rankings on TripAdvisor (#14 out of 157).


Crowne Plaza Santiago


Lobby area




Reception and concierge


Dining area and lounge


Cool vintage phones

We arrived late at night and check-in was quick and easy. I had used the Priority Club cash and points option (15,000 points + $70 USD per night) to book three nights at the hotel. The receptionist acknowledged by Platinum Elite status, and offered a higher floor room with a nice view, which I appreciated. Unfortunately, in-room WiFi was not free, but that wasn't a problem since there was a business center in the lobby area with four computers for complimentary guest use. There seemed to be at least one unoccupied computer available at all times during the day. A small gym was available at the hotel, but I didn't bother checking it out.


Business center

The room itself was very typical of large chains... nothing special, but spacious and bright. This is not a new hotel by any means, so some wear and tear was evident in the carpeting and furniture. The double beds were really comfortable, especially after spending the previous four nights in a rather old twin bed. Sheets and linens were of good quality and clean. The bathroom had a large tub/shower combo, and the water pressure was perfect.











The front desk was helpful, although depending on who you asked. We wanted recommendations on good places to eat, especially on the first night when we arrived late, and the receptionist offered up a perfect suggestion (more details in the next post). We were also given a detailed map of Santiago and plenty of information on how to get to different locations.


View from the room


View of Cerro San Cristbal

Regarding transportation in the city, we found that it was a much better option to take the hotel car rather than hail down a random taxi on the street. The hotel car offered a flat rate to neighborhoods throughout the area, while on the other hand, we were ripped off by taxis that would take roundabout routes. In the end, it cost more to take an old metered street taxi than to take the nice hotel car. In any case, there should hardly be a need for taking taxis except late at night when the metro isn't running.

While exploring the city, we passed by a number of other hotels, including the Intercontinental, the Holiday Inn Express, and the Radisson Plaza. While some of them were newer, I think the location of the Crowne Plaza really can't be beat. I would definitely recommend this hotel to anyone visiting Santiago.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 6:47 pm
  #18  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Santiago (Part 1)

I really liked Santiago de Chile. Perhaps not as famous as Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro, it is nevertheless filled with a myriad of cultural, entertainment, and culinary opportunities. I sort of liked the low-key nature of the city, and was pleasantly surprised at how friendly the people were. The metro system was particularly convenient for getting around, although it does shut down around midnight. Buy a rechargeable Bip! card for easiest access.


Santiago Metro

We arrived late on the first night and asked the hotel concierge for some dining recommendations. After a quick taxi ride, we arrived at Liguria, a noisy, chaotic, bustling bar/restaurant in Providencia filled with locals having a great time on a Thursday night. We definitely went to the right place for an introduction to Santiago! Try their famous Lomo a la Paila, and wash it down a Pisco Sour for safe measure. Sit at the bar is you don't want to wait for a table, and you'll get your food and drinks served quickly by a friendly waiter.


Bar Liguria

The next day, we decided to take a free walking tour of Santiago. I'd actually never done one of these before, so I had no idea what to expect. We opted for the afternoon tour, which met at 3:00 PM in front of the Catedral de Santiago in the Plaza de Armas. Lasting about four hours, we walked to a number of landmarks, including Palacio de La Moneda, the Pre-Columbian Art Museum, the Supreme Court building, the Old Congress Building, the Santiago Stock Exchange, Cerro Santa Luca, Barrio Lastarria, Barrio Bellavista, Cerro San Cristbal, and Pablo Neruda's house (La Chascona).


Streets of Santiago


Plaza de Armas




Palacio de La Moneda


Santiago Stock Exchange


Pablo Neruda's house (La Chascona)

The central part of Santiago is great for walking, and there are plenty of things to see all within a few mile radius. Note that while we walked to a lot of these sites and our guide was a wealth of information regarding their history and cultural significance, we didn't actually go into any of them. The walking tour gave a great overview of the major landmarks in the city, but it's really up to you to decide which places are worth a more in-depth look. Make sure you give your guide at least the recommended tip since that is how they make most of their money.

We ended the tour in the early evening outside of La Chascona. Unfortunately, it was already closed and we didn't have a chance to see the interior. The surrounding area of Bellavista is a wonderfully bohemian neighborhood with tons of good restaurants and bars. It also has a fun college town atmosphere due to the numerous universities nearby. I ate at a restaurant named Galindo on the corner of Constitucin and Dardignac. Their cazuela (traditional Chilean stew) was probably the most delicious thing I tasted while in Chile. There is also a huge outdoor food court nearby with dozens of restaurants to choose from.


Cazuela (traditional Chilean stew)

Graffiti is treated as public works of art in Santiago, and walking just a few blocks west in Bellavista, you can see some of the best examples. I was amazed at how intricate and creative many of them were. These are definitely not the typical tagging you see in the States, as I felt like some of the graffiti could have easily been displayed in galleries or art museums.









That evening, we ate at Astrid y Gastn, arguably the most famous restaurant in South America. Although thoroughly Peruvian by origin, the food is a fusion of Latin American cuisine, and relatively moderate in price for the quality and service. The Trio de Ceviche was very interesting and quite tasty, while the dessert presentation of apple tart with yellow pepper ice cream was fantastic.


Trio de Ceviche





The next day, we visited the Central Market, a huge indoor marketplace filled with food stalls, restaurants, and vendors selling just about anything you can imagine. Afterwards, while walking to Cerro Santa Luca, we stopped at Emporio La Rosa for the best gelato in Santiago (supposedly). I don't know if it really is the best, but I must say the raspberry sorbet I had was ridiculously good.


Central Market




Emporio La Rosa gelato
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 6:53 pm
  #19  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - Exploring Santiago (Part 2)

Cerro Santa Luca is a small hill in the center of Santiago, surrounded by a beautiful park filled with trees, flowers, and fountains. The stroll up the hill is a great way to unwind during the afternoon hours, and provides a nice view of the city from the top. There is also a fort at the very top of the hill which you can climb, although the stairway may be very crowded.


Cerro Santa Luca





Directly to the east of Cerro Santa Luca is the neighborhood of Lastarria, perhaps a more upscale and toned-down verson of Bellavista. Barrio Lastarria is filled with quaint cafes, restaurants, theaters and museums, and best of all, street festivals and live performances on the weekends. We spent a good amount of time just exploring the tiny streets and alleyways, and browsing the numerous stalls selling random knickknacks. Just to the south of Barrio Lastarria is the Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center, a striking orange building with some interesting exhibits.


Barrio Lastarria


Street festival




Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center

The business district in Providencia has some interesting sights to see, such as the tallest skyscraper in Latin America, Gran Torre Santiago, which is still under construction. It it part of the Costanera Center complex, which also houses the largest mall in Chile. The mall contains just about every international brand you can think of, and if you love shopping, this is definitely the place to be.


Gran Torre Santiago


Costanera Mall

Finally, on our last day, we decided to climb up Cerro San Cristbal, the highest and most visible landmark in Santiago. Unfortunately, the funicular that transports passengers up the hill was under restoration, so the only options were to take the bus or walk. Walking to the top isn't too difficult as long as you are not in terrible shape. The trail is wide and the elevation gain gradual. Once at the top, you are rewarded with a stunning view of all of Santiago. The 22-meter statue of the Virgin Mary at the summit provides a great place to relax and take in the view. In addition, there is a beautiful little stone chapel lined with intricate carvings on its walls.




Statue of the Virgin Mary






View from the top of Cerro San Cristbal

Santiago was a lovely city to visit, and I definitely would like to return at some point. With a developed infrastructure, quirky neighborhoods, plenty of delicious restaurants, great nightlife, and lots of outdoor activity, there really is something for everyone. In the future, I would love to take a road trip from Santiago to Mendoza, or visit the port city of Valparaiso for a quick day trip.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 7:07 pm
  #20  
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Reading your TR was like deja vu....We visited Easter island and Santiago last November. We also stayed at Kaimana Inn (maybe even in the same room!!!!) on Easter Island, and Marcelo also took us on a day tour of the island; we also went to the Kari Kari show, and I got to dance with one of the girls We crammed everything you did into 2 days

We also stayed at the Crowne Plaza in Santiago......

It almost seems like you have raided my photo album and used my pictures as I have almost identical pictures of Easter isalnd and Santiago that you posted

It was a great trip; we also went to Cusco, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Pisac and Lima on the same trip!!

I shouldn't have been so lazy and done a trip report, but you have done justice to both Easter Island and Santiago in your report above^
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 1:52 am
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kpc
Reading your TR was like deja vu....We visited Easter island and Santiago last November. We also stayed at Kaimana Inn (maybe even in the same room!!!!) on Easter Island, and Marcelo also took us on a day tour of the island; we also went to the Kari Kari show, and I got to dance with one of the girls We crammed everything you did into 2 days

We also stayed at the Crowne Plaza in Santiago......

It almost seems like you have raided my photo album and used my pictures as I have almost identical pictures of Easter isalnd and Santiago that you posted

It was a great trip; we also went to Cusco, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Pisac and Lima on the same trip!!

I shouldn't have been so lazy and done a trip report, but you have done justice to both Easter Island and Santiago in your report above^

Haha, thanks so much for the kind words kpc. I wonder if we were maybe even there at the same time! Yours was definitely a longer trip if you also did Machu Picchu though. I really love S. America... headed back there again in about a week... this time to Bolivia.

I'm trying hard to fight procrastination and finish this TR, but it definitely takes time to write
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 5:31 pm
  #22  
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Very enjoyable report, thank you. My favorite parts were the Santiago parts, I went there a few years ago and consider it a very underrated city. We saw pretty much all the same attractions. Thank you again for sharing.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 6:59 pm
  #23  
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Great TR. Easter Island is one of the most magical places I visited. I too stayed at Kaimana Inn
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 12:02 pm
  #24  
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Liguria in Providencia IS a fantastic restaurant. I had a great meal there in Nov 2011 and it was a dining highlight of Chile.

The Easter Island part looked great. That's a particularly good reward that you got by today's standards.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 5:20 pm
  #25  
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Interesting report to read.

Unfortunately, the impression I have got is that Easter Island is an overpriced dump. Even the Moai look fake to me, like an artist decided to make a bunch of concrete "garden gnomes" to attract clueless tourists to his outlet shop on the beach.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 1:26 am
  #26  
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@CMK10, I definitely think Santiago is underrated. It's a beautiful city to visit with lots of very eclectic neighborhoods.

@EuropeanPete, haha Kaimana Inn seems like the place to be. Although the whole time I was there, I kept wondering if there were better places to stay that were perhaps more under the radar (aka not featured on TripAdvisor).

@worldtraveller73, Liguria was great! I wanted to go back, but there are so many good eats in the city.

@dieuwer2, Easter Island may be overpriced, but imo it is certainly not a dump. But everyone enjoys different types of travels. If the historical and cultural aspects of the island don't amaze and impress you, then you definitely shouldn't go.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 1:31 am
  #27  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 600 Economy Class (SCL-LIM)

This was an absolute mess of a flight. I've never had such a chaotic, stressful, and unprofessional experience at the airport. We took the Taxi Oficial back to Santiago International Airport and arrived approximately three hours prior to departure. Unfortunately, what we thought would be a quick and easy check-in process turned into a nightmare. Immediately, I noticed a single massive line for all United States-bound flights.


Two hour wait to check in your bag

Apparently there was a flight cancellation to New York (from what I could gather), and on top of that, their systems were also having problems. Worst of all, they only had three agents working our counters for the hundreds of people in line. The check-in line stretched to almost two hours long and, understandably, people began getting extremely upset. Each person who finally got up to the counter ended up just standing there and waiting for fifteen minutes or more as the agent would simply stare at the computer screen waiting for a response.


Three agents working a line of hundreds

LAN finally added three more agents as people were close to missing their flights and yelling began to erupt in line. One lady literally sat down on the ground in front of the counters in protest. Not surprisingly, the wait time didn't improve by much. When I finally reached the counter, the agent told me I had to wait for a seat assignment despite having previously reserved my seat online and having the printout to prove it.

The agent dismissively denied that I had a seat assignment. She proceeded to turn to the agent next to her and began chatting and giggling. Needless to say, I quickly understood why people were becoming infuriated. The gentleman beside me was in a similar situation. He was arguing with his agent, and then escalated it to a supervisor manning the stations. I voiced my concerns to the supervisor as well, and her immediate response was to tell me to step aside so the agent could help others. I refused, and the gentleman next to me told me emphatically, "don't move or they will brush you aside".

The argument between me and the supervisor became heated as I was suddenly told that I'd been put on standby for the flight despite having a confirmed seat and previous seating assignment. Fed up with the situation, I finally lost it and begin yelling at the supervisor and agent, while the gentleman beside me went off on them as well. Magically, less than five minutes later, a seat was found for me and my boarding pass was quickly printed out.

This was hands down the most frustrating check-in experience I've ever had. The level of unprofessionalism displayed by the LAN ground staff was unbelievable, as the agents simply did not care if we got on the flight. They appeared far more concerned with chatting with each other than trying their best to resolve any issues. The supervisor was arguably worse, abetting their behavior and brushing off customers.

Despite getting delayed in line for two hours, we finally got our bags checked in and made it through security. When we got to the gate, we were hit with another surprise: our flight had been delayed by almost an hour. Normally, that wouldn't be an issue, but since we were already faced with a tight connection in Lima, this only made matters worse. We were now left with less than 45 minutes to deplane, go through transfer security, and make a mad dash to the departure gate.



Since LAN 600 was technically a flight to the United States (despite the brief stop in Lima), there was a secondary security check at the gate, which delayed boarding even further. Luckily, I wasn't selected for the bag search, but my friend was. Finally, after a four hour ordeal at the airport, we boarded our flight to Lima.


Secondary security check line at the gate

LAN Airlines 600
Boeing 767-300ER
Santiago (SCL) - Lima (LIM)
Sunday November 11, 2012
Departure: 10:15 PM (scheduled) / 11:01 PM (actual)
Arrival: 12:01 AM (scheduled) / 12:24 AM (actual)
Duration: 3h 46m (scheduled) / 3h 23m (actual)
Seat: 22L (Economy)


Once seated, I was frankly too tired and worked up to take many pictures. All I could do was look at the time and wonder if we would make it for our connecting flight to San Francisco. I was sweating bullets the entire way.



The seats and layout were completely identical to the previous flights, although this was again the old configuration with the very slow AVOD system. I didn't even bother turning it on for this rather short hop. After queuing for what seemed like an eternity on the tarmac, we took off smoothly and left Santiago behind.







A quick meal service began shortly after take-off, and I selected the chicken dish. I have never been disappointed with the catering on LAN, and this also was no exception. While not particularly pleasing to the eye, the meal was hearty, filling, and quite delicious. Perhaps I've just grown accustomed to starving on domestic flights in the States, but I'm always amazed that foreign airlines still cater full meals on flights less than five hours long.



As I mentioned previously, LAN is definitely not known for exemplary service. But even with tempered expectations, I felt like the flight attendants were extra curt with passengers. Nary a smile could be found anywhere. I have a feeling it was probably due to them dealing with hundreds of angry and frustrated passengers that night.

Luckily, we made up some time while in the air, and we landed in Lima just about 20 minutes after the scheduled arrival time despite the long delay. Still, there were many passengers who were nervous about their tight connections, and people were up and out of their seats even before the seat belt lights were turned off. Once off the plane, we began our mad dash to the transfer security line along with dozens of other frantic passengers.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 1:34 am
  #28  
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Easter Island/Santiago November 2012 - LAN Airlines 2608 Economy Class (LIM-SFO)

Upon arrival in Lima, we only had about 45 minutes to catch our connection to San Francisco. We ran through the halls like madmen along with a number of other passengers, only breathing a huge sigh of relief when we realized that the transfer security queue had no one in line. After a very quick security check, we made a beeline for the departure gate, arriving just as boarding got underway. A secondary security check at the gate went a lot faster than in Santiago.



LAN Airlines 2608
Boeing 767-300ER
Lima (LIM) - San Francisco (SFO)
Monday November 12, 2012
Departure: 1:15 AM (scheduled) / 1:17 AM (actual)
Arrival: 7:55 AM (scheduled) / 7:42 AM (actual)
Duration: 9h 40m (scheduled) / 9h 25m (actual)
Seat: 27C -> 31H -> 25C (Economy)


Upon boarding the aircraft, I walked to my seat 27C and noticed that another gentleman was already sitting there. Similar to the previous flight, I had reserved my seat assignment online months earlier. And although the check-in agent in Santiago claimed I didn't have a seat reserved for the SCL-LIM flight, she didn't have an issue with the LIM-SFO leg, reconfirming my seat at 27C. I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised when I arrived and saw my seat occupied, given the chaos I experienced with the Santiago ground staff.



We looked at each other's boarding passes, and saw the exact same seat 27C printed on both. When I flagged down a flight attendant and asked her where I should sit, she directed me to 31H. However, when I made my way over to that seat, I noticed someone was already seated there too! I couldn't help but laugh at the situation. Fortunately, this flight was maybe 60% full, if that, with nobody in the exit rows. Again, I asked a flight attendant what I should do, and she told me to go ahead and take an entire exit row with plenty of extra legroom all to myself!




Awesome legroom at the exit row







Despite these initial issues, I have to say that the contrast between the flight attendants on this flight and the previous flight was like night and day. Everyone was warm, friendly, and full of smiles the entire way up. Perhaps the extremely light load and red-eye departure made their job a lot more relaxed and pleasant. It's truly amazing to me how much difference a crew can make to the overall enjoyment of a flight.

Since this was a very late departure, only a snack service was provided shortly after takeoff. Although I typically enjoy LAN's catering, the sandwich that was served definitely could have used more flavor and filling. A thin slice of mystery meat was smothered in melted cheese and placed between two disproportionate pieces of bread. The whole thing looked rather sad. At least the small cake square tasted pretty good.



The flight was empty enough for passengers to occupy an entire middle row for themselves and make it into a nice bed, although the empty rows were all quickly taken. With enough legroom for me to stretch out in the exit row, I was able to get some comfortable shuteye during the nine and a half hour flight. About two hours prior to landing, a quick breakfast service began. Again, I was slightly disappointed with the dried-out omelet and leftover piece of potato unceremoniously dumped on the side. At least the fruit and cake were edible.



Soon after breakfast service, we began our descent into San Francisco on a beautiful clear morning. We landed a little bit ahead of schedule, and Premium Business passengers were allowed to deplane first before the rest of masses filed out. Although my experience with LAN was slightly unpleasant on the return trip, I was happy that it ended on a positive note with a great crew and awesome seat. I still think they are the best option when traveling to South America.




Descent into San Francisco International Airport
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 4:59 pm
  #29  
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Thanks for coming back to finish this one up...sorry to read about those LAN experiences at SCL. I will say that I had a frustrating experience with them in GRU a number of years ago that was similar, incompetent and unprofessional and most of all, unhelpful check-in agents. Still, they're great once you're in the air.
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