Eating my way through IST and getting there on TK Economy
Dec 16, 2012, 4:09 pm
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
Thank you elsie, Mr Roboto and Meriem.
Elsie - Ciya, Hunkar, Kanaat and Zencefil are a few of the restaurants that I wanted to visit but unfortunately was not able to on this trip. Between sightseeing, walking a couple of miles everyday and a few rainy days thrown in the mix, I was dead tired by the time I got back to the hotel and usually skipped going out for a meal.
I also had to be careful about what I ate everyday because I suffer from high blood pressure, acid reflux, gout and was recently diagnosed with diabetes a few months ago. Suffering from these conditions can be disastrous for someone who loves to eat and is passionate about food. Since my diabetes diagnosis, I lost 55 lbs in 3 months and have reversed my blood sugar level back to normal. In addition, my acid reflux has almost disappeared and my cholesterol level has been drastically lowered. In order to be able to eat like I did on this trip, I had to walk everyday in order to compensate for these indulgences and my blood sugar never spiked above normal during my visit. As a matter of fact the reading were much lower than I expected. Perhaps I am giving too much information here, but if my experience can help encourage someone to manage these conditions better, then it was worth sharing. There is not much you can do about your genes, but you certainly have the upper hand when it comes to managing it. I have always refused to be a victim and don't plan to live like one.
Lunch @ Canim Cigerim
This restaurant is located close to Istiklal St. a few meters down from Asmari Mescit Cd. intersecting with Minare Sk. It only specializes in kebabs and on the menu it offered 3 types - liver, meat or chicken. I was taken upstairs by the friendly waiter and he suggested me to order the half portion since I was dining alone. I'm glad I followed his advice because the half portion was more than enough for 1 person. I went for the chicken kebab and each morsel was tenderly cooked and flavorful. You can make a banquet with all the side dishes included with your order and it is best to come here with a couple of people. My meal came to a total of 13 TRY (1 USD = 1.8 TRY) which was a bargain in my book.
The website for the restaurant is in Turkish but here is a link published by Istanbul Eats about this place.
Menu on the wall
Condiments and side dishes
Ezme salad
A mix of finely diced tomatoes, onion and parsley flavored with tart pomegranate molasses
Pickles
Thin bread to wrap your kebabs
Half portion chicken kebab
Grilled vegetables
The complete meal spread
After my lunch I strolled around Istiklal St. checking out the shops and cafes. If you are in a hurry and just want to grab a quick lunch, the chain Simit Sarayi is very convenient. There are several of these fast food cafe/bakeries scattered throughout Istanbul and here is more information about this company.
Close to Taksim Sq. at the end of Istiklal St, I stumbled upon an art/photo exhibition inside a small building. It was all in Turkish but I believe that it was a showcase of contemporary artists sponsored by one of the major banks. Admission was free but I had to go through security and have my carry on x-rayed.
Some works at the exhibition
Yesil-Umit-Hulya Samer
Turuncu-Memnuniyet-Ozden Yagdiran
Sari-Incelik-Hulya Samer
Bay means Man
Bayan means Woman
Interior
..to be continued with side trip to Cappadocia on Pegasus.
Elsie - Ciya, Hunkar, Kanaat and Zencefil are a few of the restaurants that I wanted to visit but unfortunately was not able to on this trip. Between sightseeing, walking a couple of miles everyday and a few rainy days thrown in the mix, I was dead tired by the time I got back to the hotel and usually skipped going out for a meal.
I also had to be careful about what I ate everyday because I suffer from high blood pressure, acid reflux, gout and was recently diagnosed with diabetes a few months ago. Suffering from these conditions can be disastrous for someone who loves to eat and is passionate about food. Since my diabetes diagnosis, I lost 55 lbs in 3 months and have reversed my blood sugar level back to normal. In addition, my acid reflux has almost disappeared and my cholesterol level has been drastically lowered. In order to be able to eat like I did on this trip, I had to walk everyday in order to compensate for these indulgences and my blood sugar never spiked above normal during my visit. As a matter of fact the reading were much lower than I expected. Perhaps I am giving too much information here, but if my experience can help encourage someone to manage these conditions better, then it was worth sharing. There is not much you can do about your genes, but you certainly have the upper hand when it comes to managing it. I have always refused to be a victim and don't plan to live like one.
Lunch @ Canim Cigerim
This restaurant is located close to Istiklal St. a few meters down from Asmari Mescit Cd. intersecting with Minare Sk. It only specializes in kebabs and on the menu it offered 3 types - liver, meat or chicken. I was taken upstairs by the friendly waiter and he suggested me to order the half portion since I was dining alone. I'm glad I followed his advice because the half portion was more than enough for 1 person. I went for the chicken kebab and each morsel was tenderly cooked and flavorful. You can make a banquet with all the side dishes included with your order and it is best to come here with a couple of people. My meal came to a total of 13 TRY (1 USD = 1.8 TRY) which was a bargain in my book.
The website for the restaurant is in Turkish but here is a link published by Istanbul Eats about this place.
Menu on the wall
Condiments and side dishes
Ezme salad
A mix of finely diced tomatoes, onion and parsley flavored with tart pomegranate molasses
Pickles
Thin bread to wrap your kebabs
Half portion chicken kebab
Grilled vegetables
The complete meal spread
After my lunch I strolled around Istiklal St. checking out the shops and cafes. If you are in a hurry and just want to grab a quick lunch, the chain Simit Sarayi is very convenient. There are several of these fast food cafe/bakeries scattered throughout Istanbul and here is more information about this company.
Close to Taksim Sq. at the end of Istiklal St, I stumbled upon an art/photo exhibition inside a small building. It was all in Turkish but I believe that it was a showcase of contemporary artists sponsored by one of the major banks. Admission was free but I had to go through security and have my carry on x-rayed.
Some works at the exhibition
Yesil-Umit-Hulya Samer
Turuncu-Memnuniyet-Ozden Yagdiran
Sari-Incelik-Hulya Samer
Bay means Man
Bayan means Woman
Interior
..to be continued with side trip to Cappadocia on Pegasus.
Dec 16, 2012, 11:45 pm
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
A trip to Cappadocia
Cappadocia is a region in central Turkey characterized by its exceptional natural wonders and unique cultural and historical heritage. The Open Air Museum is one of the major attractions in the area and it consists of a complex of refectory monasteries that are cut out of the rocks containing exquisite frescoes dating from the 10th - 12th century. This area has been an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984. In order to get here, I flew from Istanbul to Kayseri which took about 1 hr and 20 min. followed by another 1 hr car ride to the town of Goreme.
When I saw a fare for 19.99 TRY one way from Istanbul to Kayseri (the major hub for Cappadocia) on Pegasus Airlines, I grabbed that fare right away. Since Pegasus is a low cost carrier, that meant that every extra service requested was going to be charged. I also had some concerns about the limitations of carry-on luggage but quickly solved this by leaving my regular bag at the hotel in Istanbul and bringing a small carry on bag.
My flight departed from Sabiha Gökçen Intl. (SAW), Istanbul's second international airport located 22 miles southeast of the city on the Asian side. It is named after Sabiha Gökçen, the first female combat pilot in the world. The airport was originally built to handle the overflow from Ataturk but has become a hub for domestic flights and low cost international carriers. A new terminal building opened in October 2009 handles both domestic and intl flights under one roof.
I was scheduled to fly at 8:40A and my shuttle van pick up from the hotel to the airport was scheduled to be at 5:40A. Traffic was light and the ride took less than an hour. As I left the historic Old Town and crossed into the Asian side, the landscape revealed modern apartments, malls and new building constructions resembling soulless generic suburbs in any developed country. My first impression on SAW was positive. It was clean, spacious and customer friendly. I had to clear security and have my bag x-rayed before even entering the building, as is the case at Turkey airports. Once inside I used Pegasus check-in kiosk to print my boarding pass. An agent immediately approached me when he saw me using the kiosk and entered the information on the screen for me. He handed me my boarding pass and I thanked him for his assistance. I was starving by now and decided to pay a visit to McDonald's. As a general rule I don't really patronize American fast food chains, especially when I am abroad, but I made an exception this time and ordered the Turkish breakfast. After all, when will I have a chance to order such a meal at a McDonald's on my return? I was presented with a meal that was healthy, satisfying and did not regret my choice. I checked the dept. information on the screens one more time and saw that my flight was now delayed for 30 minutes. I went straight to the gate and cleared security one more time.
PC 166 SAW-ASR
EQP 738 - Seat 15A Y Class
Dept. 8:40A (Actual 9:10A) - Arriv. 1000A (Actual 10:30)
Originally I requested seat 21F and paid a fee of 10.00 TRY for the privilege. I also reserved a cold breakfast meal and paid 16.98 TRY. The gate was located at the lower level where a bus shuttle would take us directly to the plane. At about 40 min. before departure, two agents walked up to the gate and announced the boarding of the flight. They positioned themselves on each side of the door and proceeded to tear the boarding passes. When I presented my bp, I inquired if there were any emergency exit row seats opened. The agent checked on the computer and replies "Of course, I have window 15A available". He then writes the new seat assignment on my stub and gives me the ok to board the bus. My limited interaction with PC agents have proven to be very positive so far which makes for a great first impression. Would the inflight experience be just as good?
I intentionally waited for the second bus to take me to the plane avoiding the claustrophobic crunch of people in the first bus. Once the bus arrived at the plane, I boarded from the rear of the airplane. A flight attendant was positioned in the aft galley to welcome passengers. There were 4 FA's onboard. All of them female and well groomed. I settled in my seat and another guy moved to the aisle one on my row. At least the middle seat was free. To be honest today's flight was not very full, perhaps at 40% occupancy. I placed my laptop bag under the seat in front of me and browsed the inflight magazine. Before the door closed, one of the flight attendants came to me and said that because I was occupying the emergency exit row, no bags can be placed under the seat in front and everything had to go in the overhead bin. She requested that I hand her my bag and she put it in the overheard bin for me. A cute video with kids doing the safety announcement was played and soon we were on our way to Kayseri.
About 10 minutes after take off the "fasten the seat belt sign" is turned off and the purser presents me with my breakfast and asks for my choice of drink. I requested hot tea and she comes back with it quickly. I then saw the FA's roll the carts and offer food for sale. The only free thing handed out by them is a packaged refreshing towel. My breakfast was pretty generous and consisted of fresh fruit, some sweet oatmeal with a piece of grapefruit on top, soft cheese with tomatoes, pistachios and chives, a packaged roll, cherry jam and butter. The fruit tasted very fresh and overall I was very satisfied with this meal. The flight was about 1:20 min and soon we were getting ready to land in foggy Kayseri. The low visibility was the reason for our delay.
Inside SAW terminal
Breakfast at McDonald's
I know pine is sometimes used as a fragrance, but pine honey?
Pegasus logo on the winglets
Boarding from the rear of the plane
My pre-ordered cold breakfast tray
Nice tea tray
Plane @ Kayseri (ASR)
Caravanserai Hotel in Goreme
I had a great stay at this charming property which is rated #8 out of 40 hotels in Goreme according to Trip Advisor. It was located in the center of town within walking distance of restaurants and shops, and it definitely had spectacular views and charming rooms. As a bonus the son of the hotel owner even gave me a ride in his SUV when he saw me walking up the road towards the Open Air Museum one afternoon.
The hotel courtyard
Rooftop terrace
Breakfast room
Seating area outside of the room
Room
...to be continued with Open Air Museum and Goreme restaurants.
When I saw a fare for 19.99 TRY one way from Istanbul to Kayseri (the major hub for Cappadocia) on Pegasus Airlines, I grabbed that fare right away. Since Pegasus is a low cost carrier, that meant that every extra service requested was going to be charged. I also had some concerns about the limitations of carry-on luggage but quickly solved this by leaving my regular bag at the hotel in Istanbul and bringing a small carry on bag.
My flight departed from Sabiha Gökçen Intl. (SAW), Istanbul's second international airport located 22 miles southeast of the city on the Asian side. It is named after Sabiha Gökçen, the first female combat pilot in the world. The airport was originally built to handle the overflow from Ataturk but has become a hub for domestic flights and low cost international carriers. A new terminal building opened in October 2009 handles both domestic and intl flights under one roof.
I was scheduled to fly at 8:40A and my shuttle van pick up from the hotel to the airport was scheduled to be at 5:40A. Traffic was light and the ride took less than an hour. As I left the historic Old Town and crossed into the Asian side, the landscape revealed modern apartments, malls and new building constructions resembling soulless generic suburbs in any developed country. My first impression on SAW was positive. It was clean, spacious and customer friendly. I had to clear security and have my bag x-rayed before even entering the building, as is the case at Turkey airports. Once inside I used Pegasus check-in kiosk to print my boarding pass. An agent immediately approached me when he saw me using the kiosk and entered the information on the screen for me. He handed me my boarding pass and I thanked him for his assistance. I was starving by now and decided to pay a visit to McDonald's. As a general rule I don't really patronize American fast food chains, especially when I am abroad, but I made an exception this time and ordered the Turkish breakfast. After all, when will I have a chance to order such a meal at a McDonald's on my return? I was presented with a meal that was healthy, satisfying and did not regret my choice. I checked the dept. information on the screens one more time and saw that my flight was now delayed for 30 minutes. I went straight to the gate and cleared security one more time.
PC 166 SAW-ASR
EQP 738 - Seat 15A Y Class
Dept. 8:40A (Actual 9:10A) - Arriv. 1000A (Actual 10:30)
Originally I requested seat 21F and paid a fee of 10.00 TRY for the privilege. I also reserved a cold breakfast meal and paid 16.98 TRY. The gate was located at the lower level where a bus shuttle would take us directly to the plane. At about 40 min. before departure, two agents walked up to the gate and announced the boarding of the flight. They positioned themselves on each side of the door and proceeded to tear the boarding passes. When I presented my bp, I inquired if there were any emergency exit row seats opened. The agent checked on the computer and replies "Of course, I have window 15A available". He then writes the new seat assignment on my stub and gives me the ok to board the bus. My limited interaction with PC agents have proven to be very positive so far which makes for a great first impression. Would the inflight experience be just as good?
I intentionally waited for the second bus to take me to the plane avoiding the claustrophobic crunch of people in the first bus. Once the bus arrived at the plane, I boarded from the rear of the airplane. A flight attendant was positioned in the aft galley to welcome passengers. There were 4 FA's onboard. All of them female and well groomed. I settled in my seat and another guy moved to the aisle one on my row. At least the middle seat was free. To be honest today's flight was not very full, perhaps at 40% occupancy. I placed my laptop bag under the seat in front of me and browsed the inflight magazine. Before the door closed, one of the flight attendants came to me and said that because I was occupying the emergency exit row, no bags can be placed under the seat in front and everything had to go in the overhead bin. She requested that I hand her my bag and she put it in the overheard bin for me. A cute video with kids doing the safety announcement was played and soon we were on our way to Kayseri.
About 10 minutes after take off the "fasten the seat belt sign" is turned off and the purser presents me with my breakfast and asks for my choice of drink. I requested hot tea and she comes back with it quickly. I then saw the FA's roll the carts and offer food for sale. The only free thing handed out by them is a packaged refreshing towel. My breakfast was pretty generous and consisted of fresh fruit, some sweet oatmeal with a piece of grapefruit on top, soft cheese with tomatoes, pistachios and chives, a packaged roll, cherry jam and butter. The fruit tasted very fresh and overall I was very satisfied with this meal. The flight was about 1:20 min and soon we were getting ready to land in foggy Kayseri. The low visibility was the reason for our delay.
Inside SAW terminal
Breakfast at McDonald's
I know pine is sometimes used as a fragrance, but pine honey?
Pegasus logo on the winglets
Boarding from the rear of the plane
My pre-ordered cold breakfast tray
Nice tea tray
Plane @ Kayseri (ASR)
Caravanserai Hotel in Goreme
I had a great stay at this charming property which is rated #8 out of 40 hotels in Goreme according to Trip Advisor. It was located in the center of town within walking distance of restaurants and shops, and it definitely had spectacular views and charming rooms. As a bonus the son of the hotel owner even gave me a ride in his SUV when he saw me walking up the road towards the Open Air Museum one afternoon.
The hotel courtyard
Rooftop terrace
Breakfast room
Seating area outside of the room
Room
...to be continued with Open Air Museum and Goreme restaurants.
Last edited by aw; Dec 16, 2012 at 11:54 pm
Dec 17, 2012, 8:15 am
#18
formerly known as Tad's Broiled Steaks
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,412
Eating your way through IST? I was expecting the clear majority of the photos to be about food...
Though, that pre-ordered Pegasus meal looks like something I'd eat for breakfast anywhere! Too bad McDonald's didn't provide simit instead of an English muffin, not that it's such a bad runner up...
Though, that pre-ordered Pegasus meal looks like something I'd eat for breakfast anywhere! Too bad McDonald's didn't provide simit instead of an English muffin, not that it's such a bad runner up...
Dec 18, 2012, 12:56 am
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
Open Air Museum
The museum is a complex of monasteries placed side by side located within a 15 min. walk uphill from the center of Goreme. Due to its strategic location in the center of the region with easy access from all directions, it is the first sight that visitors to Cappadocia will encounter when they come. This place has been in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1984 and it is specially enchanting in the late afternoon when air balloons fly over it.
Love Valley
This hiking valley is not far from the Open Air Museum and you can get there by following the path off the main road by the Cappadocia Tourist Hotel. If you go after the tour buses leave, then you can pretty much have the whole place to yourself. This area allows you to see the fairy chimney formations up close and enjoy the surreal landscape of this unique region.
Indulge in some contemplation while you are here.
Lovely pathway.
Dinner @ Anatolian Kitchen
Anatolian Kitchen is conveniently located in the center of town and a few steps from my hotel. On the night that I went, it was filling up with travelers and a Turkish clientele. Service was friendly and warm, and the interior was very cozy. This was specially welcomed on a cold night. I ordered a cup of salep, which is a hot creamy drink made of orchid root mixed with milk and sprinkled with cinnamon. I then had a nice tomato soup as an appetizer followed by one of the region's specialties - pottery kebab (testi kebab), a dish cooked in a clay pot and sealed with bread on top. When it is brought to your table, the waiter takes out a small machete and with a sweeping motion breaks the top revealing a bubbling tomato based stew with your choice of meat (I ordered chicken in this instance). I love dishes that make a dramatic entry. In my mind I associate kebab with grilled food so it was a bit surprising to get stew instead. Nevertheless the dish was cooked perfectly and every bite was tenderly delicious. This was accompanied by a very inflated (like some people's ego) lavash bread which provided the perfect instrument to pick up the stew.
Salep
Comfort food - tomato soup with melted cheese.
Pottery kebab
Lavash bread
...to be continued with a very interesting character at the hotel and more dining.
The museum is a complex of monasteries placed side by side located within a 15 min. walk uphill from the center of Goreme. Due to its strategic location in the center of the region with easy access from all directions, it is the first sight that visitors to Cappadocia will encounter when they come. This place has been in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1984 and it is specially enchanting in the late afternoon when air balloons fly over it.
Love Valley
This hiking valley is not far from the Open Air Museum and you can get there by following the path off the main road by the Cappadocia Tourist Hotel. If you go after the tour buses leave, then you can pretty much have the whole place to yourself. This area allows you to see the fairy chimney formations up close and enjoy the surreal landscape of this unique region.
Indulge in some contemplation while you are here.
Lovely pathway.
Dinner @ Anatolian Kitchen
Anatolian Kitchen is conveniently located in the center of town and a few steps from my hotel. On the night that I went, it was filling up with travelers and a Turkish clientele. Service was friendly and warm, and the interior was very cozy. This was specially welcomed on a cold night. I ordered a cup of salep, which is a hot creamy drink made of orchid root mixed with milk and sprinkled with cinnamon. I then had a nice tomato soup as an appetizer followed by one of the region's specialties - pottery kebab (testi kebab), a dish cooked in a clay pot and sealed with bread on top. When it is brought to your table, the waiter takes out a small machete and with a sweeping motion breaks the top revealing a bubbling tomato based stew with your choice of meat (I ordered chicken in this instance). I love dishes that make a dramatic entry. In my mind I associate kebab with grilled food so it was a bit surprising to get stew instead. Nevertheless the dish was cooked perfectly and every bite was tenderly delicious. This was accompanied by a very inflated (like some people's ego) lavash bread which provided the perfect instrument to pick up the stew.
Salep
Comfort food - tomato soup with melted cheese.
Pottery kebab
Lavash bread
...to be continued with a very interesting character at the hotel and more dining.
Dec 18, 2012, 12:14 pm
#22
Join Date: Jul 2009
Programs: DE,UN,StarwoodGold
Posts: 522
What a completely lovely -- and appetizing -- Trip Report! You've clearly put a lot of effort in, and it pays off; we readers can just about feel we are there with you and certainly feel your appreciation of the unique places, people and experiences. As the proud new owner of a couple of Turkish cookbooks I'm venturing into that area in my own kitchen and it's very rewarding -- and your TR will inspire me to lavish all possible care on my efforts even though they will never approach what you can buy from a street vendor there. Thanks so much!
Dec 20, 2012, 12:53 am
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
Thanks TWA4Me and timetogo1st.
timetogo1st - Congratulations on venturing into a new cuisine. I too have become fascinated with Turkish food and I happen to think that it is quite healthy (excluding the sweet desserts, of course) since they follow more or less a typical Mediterranean diet. You already have the passion and in no time I'm sure you will become quite an expert. Practice makes perfect after all.
One of the most interesting characters that I have ever met in a hotel.
It was a chilly morning and I headed up to the terrace for breakfast. The moment I sat down on the table ready to consume my copious meal, my eyes locked with his. There he was, sitting silently in a corner of the terrace behind a crate of Efes beer bottles. His expression was one of blissful complacency. The day before, while I was on the terrace, I saw him make quite an appearance. A group of his friends were hanging around when all of a sudden he jumps in making a shattering noise scattering his friends in all directions. Such a prankster!
Goreme
Goreme is a small town in Cappadocia with close to 2,500 people. Due to its strategic location among the "fairy chimney" rock formations and easy access to the Open Air Museum, it has become a popular base for many travelers who want to explore this region of Turkey. Goreme was first settled back during the Roman period with Christianity as the main religion, as evidenced by the presence of the many rock churches around. During my short stay I found Goreme to be quaint and quite compact to explore, with unexpected charm awaiting to be revealed at the turn of the corner.
Lunch @ My House Cafe
This restaurant is almost next to the bus terminal and has a bakery section as well. The cafe area is not very big but it was cozy and service was very efficient. I stumbled upon this place because I was craving for cacik (diluted yogurt) and this place featured it on its menu. In addition to cacik I also ordered a vegetable stew and some pickles. As it turned out, the meal was fantastic. The yogurt as meze was refreshing and the crushed garlic and chopped cucumbers complemented the tangy taste beautifully. The vegetable stew was cooked perfectly and seasoned with a generous serving of tomato sauce on top. Finally the pickles were crisp and made for a nice prelude to the main dish. As I found out later, this restaurant is also ranked highly on the Turkish site mekanist.net.
Cacik
This dish is served cold and consists of diluted yogurt that is generally seasoned with salt, garlic, chopped cucumber, dill, mint, olive oil, lime juice and garnished with sumac. When it is consumed as a meze, paprika might also be sprinkled on top of it.
Pickles
Vegetable stew
Dinner @ Dibek restaurant.
My last meal in Goreme was taken at Dibek which is a very atmospheric restaurant. I ate sitting on a cushion on the floor and ordered a traditional cucumber and tomato salad, followed by bulgur soup and cheese gozleme (flat bread stuffed with meat or cheese). I enjoyed this fine and simple meal inside this former stable. The waiter was particularly attentive and quite efficient.
Salad
Bulgur soup
Cheese gozleme
PC 167 ASR-SAW
EQP 738 - Seat 20F Y Class
Dept. 10:25A - Arriv. 11:45A
The van picked me up from the hotel at about 2 hrs. before dept. and the ride took a good 1 hr to the airport. Kayseri airport is small with a dedicated area for intl. flights. I did not feel comfortable taking pictures of the airport because there was some kind of military base next to it and wanted to avoid attention just in case.
Once again, I had to pass through security and have my bags x-rayed before entering into the building. Once inside, I proceeded to the Pegasus counter to check in for my flight. The agent seemed robotic and at the end wished me a good flight. Before heading to the gate which was almost next to the counter I had to go through security one more time. It was not necessary to take off your shoes and the whole screening process was carried out efficiently and in a dignified way.
Boarding soon began and we boarded from both the front and rear of the plane. Today's flight was full and took my window seat quickly. The pitch felt a bit tight, but for a 1:20 min flight it was fine. About 10 minutes after take off, a smiling male FA approached me with my pre-ordered meal and asked for my drink of choice. I requested some sour cherry juice and it was brought up right away. My meal was the chicken leg in thyme sauce and it cost 24.98 TRY which is a bit pricey. However, the quality of the meal was very good featuring chicken pieces with rice and vegetables, warm roll, salad with beans, chocolate cake with whipped cream, crackers and cream cheese.
Pegasus places ads on the overhead bins
Chicken meal
Chocolate cake
SAW Airport
We arrived as scheduled on a sunny day and made my way to the Havas bus to take me to Taksim Sq. Once there, I took the funicular to Kabatas where connected to the tram to Sultanahmet.
...to be continued with more dining in Istanbul and the Istanbul Eats tour.
timetogo1st - Congratulations on venturing into a new cuisine. I too have become fascinated with Turkish food and I happen to think that it is quite healthy (excluding the sweet desserts, of course) since they follow more or less a typical Mediterranean diet. You already have the passion and in no time I'm sure you will become quite an expert. Practice makes perfect after all.
One of the most interesting characters that I have ever met in a hotel.
It was a chilly morning and I headed up to the terrace for breakfast. The moment I sat down on the table ready to consume my copious meal, my eyes locked with his. There he was, sitting silently in a corner of the terrace behind a crate of Efes beer bottles. His expression was one of blissful complacency. The day before, while I was on the terrace, I saw him make quite an appearance. A group of his friends were hanging around when all of a sudden he jumps in making a shattering noise scattering his friends in all directions. Such a prankster!
Goreme
Goreme is a small town in Cappadocia with close to 2,500 people. Due to its strategic location among the "fairy chimney" rock formations and easy access to the Open Air Museum, it has become a popular base for many travelers who want to explore this region of Turkey. Goreme was first settled back during the Roman period with Christianity as the main religion, as evidenced by the presence of the many rock churches around. During my short stay I found Goreme to be quaint and quite compact to explore, with unexpected charm awaiting to be revealed at the turn of the corner.
Lunch @ My House Cafe
This restaurant is almost next to the bus terminal and has a bakery section as well. The cafe area is not very big but it was cozy and service was very efficient. I stumbled upon this place because I was craving for cacik (diluted yogurt) and this place featured it on its menu. In addition to cacik I also ordered a vegetable stew and some pickles. As it turned out, the meal was fantastic. The yogurt as meze was refreshing and the crushed garlic and chopped cucumbers complemented the tangy taste beautifully. The vegetable stew was cooked perfectly and seasoned with a generous serving of tomato sauce on top. Finally the pickles were crisp and made for a nice prelude to the main dish. As I found out later, this restaurant is also ranked highly on the Turkish site mekanist.net.
Cacik
This dish is served cold and consists of diluted yogurt that is generally seasoned with salt, garlic, chopped cucumber, dill, mint, olive oil, lime juice and garnished with sumac. When it is consumed as a meze, paprika might also be sprinkled on top of it.
Pickles
Vegetable stew
Dinner @ Dibek restaurant.
My last meal in Goreme was taken at Dibek which is a very atmospheric restaurant. I ate sitting on a cushion on the floor and ordered a traditional cucumber and tomato salad, followed by bulgur soup and cheese gozleme (flat bread stuffed with meat or cheese). I enjoyed this fine and simple meal inside this former stable. The waiter was particularly attentive and quite efficient.
Salad
Bulgur soup
Cheese gozleme
PC 167 ASR-SAW
EQP 738 - Seat 20F Y Class
Dept. 10:25A - Arriv. 11:45A
The van picked me up from the hotel at about 2 hrs. before dept. and the ride took a good 1 hr to the airport. Kayseri airport is small with a dedicated area for intl. flights. I did not feel comfortable taking pictures of the airport because there was some kind of military base next to it and wanted to avoid attention just in case.
Once again, I had to pass through security and have my bags x-rayed before entering into the building. Once inside, I proceeded to the Pegasus counter to check in for my flight. The agent seemed robotic and at the end wished me a good flight. Before heading to the gate which was almost next to the counter I had to go through security one more time. It was not necessary to take off your shoes and the whole screening process was carried out efficiently and in a dignified way.
Boarding soon began and we boarded from both the front and rear of the plane. Today's flight was full and took my window seat quickly. The pitch felt a bit tight, but for a 1:20 min flight it was fine. About 10 minutes after take off, a smiling male FA approached me with my pre-ordered meal and asked for my drink of choice. I requested some sour cherry juice and it was brought up right away. My meal was the chicken leg in thyme sauce and it cost 24.98 TRY which is a bit pricey. However, the quality of the meal was very good featuring chicken pieces with rice and vegetables, warm roll, salad with beans, chocolate cake with whipped cream, crackers and cream cheese.
Pegasus places ads on the overhead bins
Chicken meal
Chocolate cake
SAW Airport
We arrived as scheduled on a sunny day and made my way to the Havas bus to take me to Taksim Sq. Once there, I took the funicular to Kabatas where connected to the tram to Sultanahmet.
...to be continued with more dining in Istanbul and the Istanbul Eats tour.
Last edited by aw; Dec 20, 2012 at 1:07 am
Dec 20, 2012, 7:56 am
#25
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dalat, Vietnam
Programs: Vietnam, Asiana, Singapore, EVA, Southwest
Posts: 934
That's quite a TR, thanks. I was in Istanbul in October 2011 as well as in Tbilisi (another great foodie destination). I made the mistake of taking Air France because I was curious about the whale (A388, JFK-CDG). Had I known it was so easy to upgrade on TK, I would have done as you did. I made the side trip to Georgia on Pegasus out of SAW.
I also took the Istanbuleats tour, the New City Tour, and it was fantastic. I stayed in an apartment just down the street from Galata Tower, and really loved that neighborhood for it's convenience, and it's color (not to mention that juice stand on the corner). I believe your trip was considerably more upscale than mine. I also have HBP and also walk my fat little feet off, and use stairs to increase my metabolism. I must have walked the Istiklal Cadessi at least 50 times, since it was near my apartment.
While baklava does nothing for me, and I don't care for Turkish coffee, I must say that I was thoroughly impressed with the food scene in Istanbul, and will be returning there again. While I did make it to Ciya's vegetarian cafe, Istanbuleats failed to clue me in on Canim Cigerim (I'm basically a kebab lover, and one of my reasons for coming to Turkey in the first place!)
As a perfectionist, I must say the simits in Istanbul are not as good as my neighbor's here in Portland (still hot from the oven). While the ice cream in Istanbul was very good, it's even better in Tbilisi. The Georgians really know how to eat!
I also took the Istanbuleats tour, the New City Tour, and it was fantastic. I stayed in an apartment just down the street from Galata Tower, and really loved that neighborhood for it's convenience, and it's color (not to mention that juice stand on the corner). I believe your trip was considerably more upscale than mine. I also have HBP and also walk my fat little feet off, and use stairs to increase my metabolism. I must have walked the Istiklal Cadessi at least 50 times, since it was near my apartment.
While baklava does nothing for me, and I don't care for Turkish coffee, I must say that I was thoroughly impressed with the food scene in Istanbul, and will be returning there again. While I did make it to Ciya's vegetarian cafe, Istanbuleats failed to clue me in on Canim Cigerim (I'm basically a kebab lover, and one of my reasons for coming to Turkey in the first place!)
As a perfectionist, I must say the simits in Istanbul are not as good as my neighbor's here in Portland (still hot from the oven). While the ice cream in Istanbul was very good, it's even better in Tbilisi. The Georgians really know how to eat!
Last edited by Daawgon; Dec 20, 2012 at 4:22 pm
Dec 23, 2012, 2:30 am
#26
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NYCEWR
Programs: MP(1K) Million Miler, Marriott Plat
Posts: 478
This is my second trip in less than a year and I must confess that I have fallen in love with Istanbul. For me it's not only its architecture, food, or sights that make this place so compelling, but the element of surprise that "wows" me when I least expect it.
[I
...to be continued.
[I
...to be continued.
Dec 23, 2012, 7:52 pm
#27
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Apr 2003
Programs: UA*Lifetime GS, Hyatt* Lifetime Globalist
Posts: 12,337
Excellent AW!
I miss your report and food photos. I am so happy to see you doing this report!
What camera are you doing these days?
Btw, I am back in S. Florida for the holidays.... Stone Crabs and yummy Cuban pastries"
I miss your report and food photos. I am so happy to see you doing this report!
What camera are you doing these days?
Btw, I am back in S. Florida for the holidays.... Stone Crabs and yummy Cuban pastries"
Dec 23, 2012, 8:52 pm
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
Thank you HangukStyle, Daawgon, TheCount2 and UA_Flyer.
HangukStyle – Interesting observation. Do these Korean characters mean anything?
Daawgon – It was easy to upgrade on TK because the flight was very open. From what I have read this flight is usually full most of the time, but when the space is available to move up to Comfort Class, it is quite a value. For sure TK offers a superior hard product in Y compared to AF and other Western carriers. Catering is excellent on this carrier no matter what class you fly.
Walking in Istanbul is such a pleasure and part of the charm of the city is finding out what lurks behind the corner. Next time try Canim Cigerim. You will like the experience and it will be fun to eat an assortment of different kebabs. I have to give Tbilisi a try one of these days.
TheCount2 – You mean TK instead of TG (Thai Airways), right? Although I am pretty sure that your statement about TG Premium Econ. is pretty accurate as well. Since you are in Taksim, there is one restaurant named Haci Baba (across from the French Cultural Center on Istiklal St.) that was on my list to try but did not have a chance to do so. I will attach the link here for more information. Enjoy your wet burger.
UA_Flyer – Great to hear from you buddy! You know your pic reports are always a great inspiration to me. Maybe I am lazy but I did not want to carry my DSLR so I bought a Canon Powershot G12 and used it for this trip and the Costa Rica one on TACA Business (that report is about to be published soon). On my next trip I think I will bring the DSLR. No matter how good a compact camera is, it will never compare to the quality of the pics taken with a DSLR.
Enjoy your time in South Florida eating stone crabs, pastelitos and Cuban medianoches. I’m jealous!
Suleymaniye Mosque
Istanbul’s most important mosque built between 1550-57 was not only a place of worship but also a charitable foundation that included a hospital, soup kitchen, school, caravanserai and bath house. It fed and serviced the city’s poor (Muslims, Christians and Jews alike) and this mosque is both a tribute to its architect the great Sinan, and a fitting memorial to its founder Suleyman the Magnificent.
Ali Baba and Tarihi Süleymaniyeli restaurants
Located in front of the mosque, there is a row of restaurants offering simple but very satisfying meals. I saw crowds of locals patronize these eating places and one of them – Ali Baba, at the end of the corner, was even patronized by the Turkish Finance minister who makes an appearance from time to time with his entourage. The specialty here is kuru fasulye (white beans stew) served with rice which makes for a filling meal. I understand that this combination is also “comfort” food for a lot of Turkish people. I ordered mine with a side of pickles and a lamb stew with vegetables. My friends Muharrem and Yusuf spoke highly of this place and when I arrived the waiter took me directly inside the kitchen and showed me the dishes prepared for the day. The kitchen was small but full of pots and trays of mouthwatering stews, plump stuffed eggplants, and rice dishes among many other things. To order you just tell the waiter or point to what you want. Outside in the seating area there was a spit roasting doner. There is nothing fancy about this place and the table set ups are very basic, but the food served is excellent and satisfying.
My meal at Ali Baba
Lamb stew with vegetables
Tarihi Süleymaniyeli restaurant is next to Ali Baba and its set up is the same. A waiter takes you inside to show you the daily specials and you order what catches your eyes. The food is equally as good as Ali Baba in my opinion and I enjoyed my meal here as well. On my next trip to Istanbul I plan to revisit these restaurants again.
Tarihi Cesme restaurant
This restaurant was conveniently located in front of my hotel and I ate here on one or two occasions. Overall the food here runs from fine to average and the prices are reasonable, but I feel that there is a consistency issue. Having said that, I really enjoyed the pides and must say that the service is excellent. Little details like tearing off the wet napkin package offering it to the guests at the end of the meal and opening the door when they leave whenever a staff is nearby make a lasting impression.
Mezes
Baked vegetable stew
Chicken kebab - a bit dry
Doy Doy restaurant
This is another establishment located in Sultanahmet and quite popular with travelers since it is often mentioned in several guide books. It’s known to have a killer view from its terrace facing the Blue Mosque. I can’t speak for that because I stayed inside the warm dining room on a cold winter day. There were a few neighborhood locals sitting and prices are quite reasonable for the area. I had a nice meal of patlican (eggplant) kebab which was slightly charred on the outside and cooked perfectly accompanied by cold mezes.
Cold meze
Patlican (eggplant) kebab
..to be continued with more food...
HangukStyle – Interesting observation. Do these Korean characters mean anything?
Daawgon – It was easy to upgrade on TK because the flight was very open. From what I have read this flight is usually full most of the time, but when the space is available to move up to Comfort Class, it is quite a value. For sure TK offers a superior hard product in Y compared to AF and other Western carriers. Catering is excellent on this carrier no matter what class you fly.
Walking in Istanbul is such a pleasure and part of the charm of the city is finding out what lurks behind the corner. Next time try Canim Cigerim. You will like the experience and it will be fun to eat an assortment of different kebabs. I have to give Tbilisi a try one of these days.
TheCount2 – You mean TK instead of TG (Thai Airways), right? Although I am pretty sure that your statement about TG Premium Econ. is pretty accurate as well. Since you are in Taksim, there is one restaurant named Haci Baba (across from the French Cultural Center on Istiklal St.) that was on my list to try but did not have a chance to do so. I will attach the link here for more information. Enjoy your wet burger.
UA_Flyer – Great to hear from you buddy! You know your pic reports are always a great inspiration to me. Maybe I am lazy but I did not want to carry my DSLR so I bought a Canon Powershot G12 and used it for this trip and the Costa Rica one on TACA Business (that report is about to be published soon). On my next trip I think I will bring the DSLR. No matter how good a compact camera is, it will never compare to the quality of the pics taken with a DSLR.
Enjoy your time in South Florida eating stone crabs, pastelitos and Cuban medianoches. I’m jealous!
Suleymaniye Mosque
Istanbul’s most important mosque built between 1550-57 was not only a place of worship but also a charitable foundation that included a hospital, soup kitchen, school, caravanserai and bath house. It fed and serviced the city’s poor (Muslims, Christians and Jews alike) and this mosque is both a tribute to its architect the great Sinan, and a fitting memorial to its founder Suleyman the Magnificent.
Ali Baba and Tarihi Süleymaniyeli restaurants
Located in front of the mosque, there is a row of restaurants offering simple but very satisfying meals. I saw crowds of locals patronize these eating places and one of them – Ali Baba, at the end of the corner, was even patronized by the Turkish Finance minister who makes an appearance from time to time with his entourage. The specialty here is kuru fasulye (white beans stew) served with rice which makes for a filling meal. I understand that this combination is also “comfort” food for a lot of Turkish people. I ordered mine with a side of pickles and a lamb stew with vegetables. My friends Muharrem and Yusuf spoke highly of this place and when I arrived the waiter took me directly inside the kitchen and showed me the dishes prepared for the day. The kitchen was small but full of pots and trays of mouthwatering stews, plump stuffed eggplants, and rice dishes among many other things. To order you just tell the waiter or point to what you want. Outside in the seating area there was a spit roasting doner. There is nothing fancy about this place and the table set ups are very basic, but the food served is excellent and satisfying.
My meal at Ali Baba
Lamb stew with vegetables
Tarihi Süleymaniyeli restaurant is next to Ali Baba and its set up is the same. A waiter takes you inside to show you the daily specials and you order what catches your eyes. The food is equally as good as Ali Baba in my opinion and I enjoyed my meal here as well. On my next trip to Istanbul I plan to revisit these restaurants again.
Tarihi Cesme restaurant
This restaurant was conveniently located in front of my hotel and I ate here on one or two occasions. Overall the food here runs from fine to average and the prices are reasonable, but I feel that there is a consistency issue. Having said that, I really enjoyed the pides and must say that the service is excellent. Little details like tearing off the wet napkin package offering it to the guests at the end of the meal and opening the door when they leave whenever a staff is nearby make a lasting impression.
Mezes
Baked vegetable stew
Chicken kebab - a bit dry
Doy Doy restaurant
This is another establishment located in Sultanahmet and quite popular with travelers since it is often mentioned in several guide books. It’s known to have a killer view from its terrace facing the Blue Mosque. I can’t speak for that because I stayed inside the warm dining room on a cold winter day. There were a few neighborhood locals sitting and prices are quite reasonable for the area. I had a nice meal of patlican (eggplant) kebab which was slightly charred on the outside and cooked perfectly accompanied by cold mezes.
Cold meze
Patlican (eggplant) kebab
..to be continued with more food...
Dec 23, 2012, 9:11 pm
#29
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Apr 2003
Programs: UA*Lifetime GS, Hyatt* Lifetime Globalist
Posts: 12,337
UA_Flyer – Great to hear from you buddy! You know your pic reports are always a great inspiration to me. Maybe I am lazy but I did not want to carry my DSLR so I bought a Canon Powershot G12 and used it for this trip and the Costa Rica one on TACA Business (that report is about to be published soon). On my next trip I think I will bring the DSLR. No matter how good a compact camera is, it will never compare to the quality of the pics taken with a DSLR.
Enjoy your time in South Florida eating stone crabs, pastelitos and Cuban medianoches. I’m jealous!
Enjoy your time in South Florida eating stone crabs, pastelitos and Cuban medianoches. I’m jealous!
Dec 24, 2012, 12:27 am
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Burlingame, CA
Programs: TK Miles & Smiles, CM ConnectMiles, AA Advantage
Posts: 2,129
Great minds think alike, right? Don't get me wrong, I am very happy with my G12, but for those times when I am really inspired and want to take a "killer" shot, a DSLR would be better.
Hatay Has Kral Sofrasi restaurant
I came with my friend Muharrem to this upscale restaurant frequented by locals and businessmen from the Middle East and Europe. The restaurant specializes in Eastern Mediterranean cuisine from the Hatay province in Turkey. This region is known for its multicultural influences and the food here combines elements of Turkish, Arabic, Armenian and other ethnic cuisines of the region. Although lamb dishes are prominently featured here, I saw the waiters dispatch orders of Tuzda Tavuk (chicken in a salt crust) and Testi (Clay Jug). Kebap, two popular specialties at this restaurant. It is suggested that if you want to order either one of these dishes, call at least 2 hrs ahead of time since they require a lengthy preparation. The official site for the restaurant is here.
After we sat down, a tray full of tempting mezes arrived for our perusal. We decided on humus and what I think was acuka (a paste made with peppers, ground walnuts, tomato paste, bread crumbs, garlic, and spices). I enjoyed the silky and rich texture of the humus but found the acuka more intriguing. The paste had a “bite” and heartiness to it that was unlike anything that I have tasted before. This was followed by a robust chicken soup, made even better with a squeeze of lemon, a refreshing salad, lamb kebab cooked in a tray, and lamb stew. I particularly appreciated the contrasting textures of these two lamb dishes. There was also plenty of lavash bread to accompany the mezes and the meal.
Mezes brought on a tray to your table
Salad and humus
Acuka
Soup
Ayran yogurt drink
Lamb kebab cooked in a tray
Lamb stew
After the meal, we decided to walk by the Valens Aqueduct and visit a kunefe shop named "Şefikoğulları Künefe" which is reputed for being one of the best in Istanbul. Kunefe is considered one of the most delicious Turkish desserts and it is made up of a semi soft cheese sandwiched between two layers of kadayif (shredded phyllo dough) that is then heated individually in a plate and served hot with syrup and a good sprinkling of ground pistachios. It is best consumed hot right after the kadayif absorbs the syrup for the best taste. The combination of crunchy kadayif mixed with the stringy cheese and sweetness of the syrup was pure bliss with each bite becoming more addictive. I can't think of a more proper ending to a great meal.
Istanbul Eats' "Culinary Secrets of the Old City" tour
In addition to trying to navigate the culinary landscape of Istanbul by myself, I supplemented my search by signing up for a gastronomic tour titled "Culinary Secrets of the Old City" offered by Istanbul Eats. The tour cost $125 per person and according to the company's website "Our culinary walks program is designed to lead visitors on an eating binge through Istanbul’s lesser seen historic side streets and the authentic markets of the city, taking in countless hard-to-find culinary gems and, in between meals, a couple of untouristed monuments." Their approach proved to be insightful and enjoyable exposing me to new experiences that I might not have been able to sample on my own without the expertise of a local.
When it comes to Turkish food, Istanbul Eats is quite an authority. With a blog that was voted "one of the best food blogs" by Saveur magazine and features on shows such as CBS Sunday Morning, its reputation as a reliable culinary source is solid. Besides the tour that I was signed on, there are two other ones that were offered - Cosmopolitan Beyoglu and Kebab Krawl at night.
The Culinary Secrets tour accommodates between 2-7 people and starts at 9:30A at the Spice Market taking half a day. I was instructed to meet Angelis, our tour guide, in front of the stairs of the New Mosque adjacent to the market. At 9:40A, the group was assembled with all 7 of us from the USA. We introduced ourselves to each other and start the tour in front of a simit cart. Angelis is a Greek transplant and his passion for Istanbul and Turkish food is evident. He has a very friendly and enthusiastic demeanor which puts everyone at ease. He starts to shop for our breakfast by purchasing a couple of simits and breads, followed by a walk through the alleys on the side of the market looking for cheese, olives, clotted cream, honey and pastrami cuts. As we visited each stand, we had the chance to sample some of their products at the same time.
Olive stand
Cheese
Fish stand next door
Dried vegetables stand
The purple tubes are dried eggplant that are later soaked in water and stuffed to make a dish.
Pickles shop
Breakfast cart
...to be continued...
Don't get me wrong, I am very happy with my G12, but for those times when I am really inspired and want to take a "killer" shot, a DSLR would be better.Hatay Has Kral Sofrasi restaurant
I came with my friend Muharrem to this upscale restaurant frequented by locals and businessmen from the Middle East and Europe. The restaurant specializes in Eastern Mediterranean cuisine from the Hatay province in Turkey. This region is known for its multicultural influences and the food here combines elements of Turkish, Arabic, Armenian and other ethnic cuisines of the region. Although lamb dishes are prominently featured here, I saw the waiters dispatch orders of Tuzda Tavuk (chicken in a salt crust) and Testi (Clay Jug). Kebap, two popular specialties at this restaurant. It is suggested that if you want to order either one of these dishes, call at least 2 hrs ahead of time since they require a lengthy preparation. The official site for the restaurant is here.
After we sat down, a tray full of tempting mezes arrived for our perusal. We decided on humus and what I think was acuka (a paste made with peppers, ground walnuts, tomato paste, bread crumbs, garlic, and spices). I enjoyed the silky and rich texture of the humus but found the acuka more intriguing. The paste had a “bite” and heartiness to it that was unlike anything that I have tasted before. This was followed by a robust chicken soup, made even better with a squeeze of lemon, a refreshing salad, lamb kebab cooked in a tray, and lamb stew. I particularly appreciated the contrasting textures of these two lamb dishes. There was also plenty of lavash bread to accompany the mezes and the meal.
Mezes brought on a tray to your table
Salad and humus
Acuka
Soup
Ayran yogurt drink
Lamb kebab cooked in a tray
Lamb stew
After the meal, we decided to walk by the Valens Aqueduct and visit a kunefe shop named "Şefikoğulları Künefe" which is reputed for being one of the best in Istanbul. Kunefe is considered one of the most delicious Turkish desserts and it is made up of a semi soft cheese sandwiched between two layers of kadayif (shredded phyllo dough) that is then heated individually in a plate and served hot with syrup and a good sprinkling of ground pistachios. It is best consumed hot right after the kadayif absorbs the syrup for the best taste. The combination of crunchy kadayif mixed with the stringy cheese and sweetness of the syrup was pure bliss with each bite becoming more addictive. I can't think of a more proper ending to a great meal.
Istanbul Eats' "Culinary Secrets of the Old City" tour
In addition to trying to navigate the culinary landscape of Istanbul by myself, I supplemented my search by signing up for a gastronomic tour titled "Culinary Secrets of the Old City" offered by Istanbul Eats. The tour cost $125 per person and according to the company's website "Our culinary walks program is designed to lead visitors on an eating binge through Istanbul’s lesser seen historic side streets and the authentic markets of the city, taking in countless hard-to-find culinary gems and, in between meals, a couple of untouristed monuments." Their approach proved to be insightful and enjoyable exposing me to new experiences that I might not have been able to sample on my own without the expertise of a local.
When it comes to Turkish food, Istanbul Eats is quite an authority. With a blog that was voted "one of the best food blogs" by Saveur magazine and features on shows such as CBS Sunday Morning, its reputation as a reliable culinary source is solid. Besides the tour that I was signed on, there are two other ones that were offered - Cosmopolitan Beyoglu and Kebab Krawl at night.
The Culinary Secrets tour accommodates between 2-7 people and starts at 9:30A at the Spice Market taking half a day. I was instructed to meet Angelis, our tour guide, in front of the stairs of the New Mosque adjacent to the market. At 9:40A, the group was assembled with all 7 of us from the USA. We introduced ourselves to each other and start the tour in front of a simit cart. Angelis is a Greek transplant and his passion for Istanbul and Turkish food is evident. He has a very friendly and enthusiastic demeanor which puts everyone at ease. He starts to shop for our breakfast by purchasing a couple of simits and breads, followed by a walk through the alleys on the side of the market looking for cheese, olives, clotted cream, honey and pastrami cuts. As we visited each stand, we had the chance to sample some of their products at the same time.
Olive stand
Cheese
Fish stand next door
Dried vegetables stand
The purple tubes are dried eggplant that are later soaked in water and stuffed to make a dish.
Pickles shop
Breakfast cart
...to be continued...