Flying Buccaneer

After we returned from Isla Negra and exploring Viña del Mar on Sunday, we stayed at the hotel. After some relaxing and checking football scores, we went downstairs for pisco sours and a view of the Pacific. Other than the two kids whose parents let them run wild on the terrace facing the ocean, the only annoyance was the smoke from the fires around Viña. The steady breeze kept the smoke from being unbearable, but it was something we could have done without. It did make the sunset more spectacular, though.



The smoke cleared a bit after sunset, giving us a nice view of the lights in Valparaiso.



(Note the left side of the photo.)

The air was almost free of smoke, so we decided sleep with the door to the balcony open. Even though the crazy seagull was stationed outside, squawking any time it sensed real or imagined threats, we wanted to hear the sounds of waves crashing as we went to sleep. It lulled me right to sleep, and every time I awoke I was reluctant to get out of bed.

Around 9:00 a.m., we finally went downstairs to breakfast. The choices were the same as they had been the past couple of days, but the pan au chocolat had been replaced with lemon meringue pie. Hey, we’re on vacation! Before heading back to the room, I asked the concierge if he could contact Viña Veramonte regarding a tour at 12:30 p.m. I had emailed them twice but never received a response. He called and never got an answer. He suggested we tour Casas del Bosque and made reservations for us at 3:00 p.m.

Back in our room, we packed and enjoyed the view one last time. A little before noon, we said our farewells to the psycho gull and went downstairs to check out. We had to straighten out an error in the bill, but that was done smoothly. Everyone had been so welcoming and accommodating at the Sheraton Miramar that it was tough to leave, but it was time to move on.

The drive to Casablanca was easy, and we still had over two hours before our tour. We decided to visit Viña Veramonte, just to see if anyone was there. We exited Ruta 68, and approached the gate. The guard let us in, and we drove to the main building.



We went into the shop and decided to try the Primus, which is a mixture of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Carmenere. We both liked it so much that we bought three bottles to bring back to the US. After looking around, taking pictures, and tasting wine, we were hungry and asked the woman at the shop if she could recommend a place for lunch. She was so enthusiastic in her recommendation for a place called Botha that we looked forward to visiting it. Unfortunately, we missed the exit and could not figure out how to get back, so we ended up eating at a Bariloche Restaurant just off Ruta 68.

We hurried through lunch so that we would make it to Casas del Bosque by 3:00 p.m. We need not have rushed. We had to wait until 3:25 p.m. for the tour to begin, but our guide did an outstanding job. The tour started with a film about the history of wine-making in Chile and the Casablanca Valley, some background on Casas del Bosque, and a description of the process. Our guide then showed us the Pinot Noir vines:



and then explained the wine-making process and showed us where the wines ferment and age. Then we went for a tasting of five wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and a Pinot Noir/Syrah/Carmenere/Merlot blend. We bought a bottle of the Sauvignon Blanc, paid for the tour, and made our way to the car for the drive to SCL.

We made it to the airport at 5:30 p.m. and returned the car, pausing to take a picture:



and lugging our bags to the Alamo counter. The process of turning in the car was just a little easier than renting it. Done with that, we arranged for a taxi to take us to the W.

We are probably not the W’s target market, but we have had some wonderful experiences at W Hotels, especially the one in Istanbul last December. Therefore, we were excited about staying at the one in Santiago. After a surprisingly quick taxi ride to the hotel, we were greeted and helped with our bags. At check in, the agent informed me that we had been upgraded to a Fantastic Suite. It certainly is fantastic! The entrance is through a hallway that passes a ½ bath on its way to the living area. This part of the suite has a comfortable sectional sofa and two bright mustard-color chairs as well as a table, mini-bar, and flat screen TV:



The bedroom has a king bed, another flat screen TV, a desk, a walk-in closet, and it shares space with a double sink, tub, and open shower:



We figured we should explore the neighborhood before getting too comfortable, so we took a walk along Isidora Goyenechea. After a snack, we returned to the room for the evening. Around 9:45 p.m., we received a call that there was an amenity to be delivered to our room if we wanted it. I said, “Send it up,” and it was a couple of trays of fruit (raspberries, kiwi, and pineapple) and a couple of bottles of water. It was a nice way to end the evening.

Our first impressions of Santiago are positive, and we are looking forward to exploring the city over the next two days.

Eastbay1K

This continues to be such a nice report. My laundry is clean, and tomorrow afternoon, I'll be shoving some of that into luggage. One of these days I'll have to check the W out. But not staying at the San Cristobal Tower is like going somewhere and not telling relatives that you really like that you are in town.

Flying Buccaneer

Thanks Eastbay1K. Our taxi from the airport passed the San Cristobal Tower and Sheraton, and I pointed it out to Mr. FB. He reminded me that staying at the new W was how I convinced him that we should include SCL in our itinerary. I guess I didn't have much choice!

Flying Buccaneer

Once again, we got off to a late start today. I woke up first and went to the Juan Valdez Café next to the hotel for my morning tea. I got another one to go and came back to the room. We didn’t leave for the day until a little before 11:00 a.m.

First on the agenda: finding the El Golf metro station and buying a Bip! card. The metro in Santiago is clean and inexpensive. Each ride is 400 pesos, about 80 US cents. I loaded a Bip! card, and both of us were able to use it. We took the metro to La Moneda station. It took a couple of minutes of orient ourselves, but we found Chile’s Presidential Palace without much trouble:



We walked around to the back, which is really the front, and saw the Plaza de la Constitución. The plaza has statues of some former Chilean Presidents, including a prominent one of Salvador Allende on its east side:



After we had taken way too many pictures of the plaza, we walked up Morandé for a few blocks to Catedral and then over to Plaza de Armas. This plaza was much more abuzz with activity – tourists, locals, businesspeople, vendors, etc.



The most striking feature of the plaza is Catedral de Santiago:



After all this walking, I was getting hungry, so I pointed us toward Mercado Central, which was just a few blocks away. Walking through the market could be pretty disgusting for someone who does not like fish, because there is fresh fish everywhere. There is also the smell of fish. I doubt any other inland city has as much fresh fish as Santiago:



The market reminded me of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, because everyone called me “my friend.” Of course, they were just trying to get me to eat at their restaurant. The concierge at the W recommended a place called El Galeón. There were probably less expensive restaurants in the market, but as a couple of gringos, we were happy to follow a recommendation.

I had a few “must tries” on my list, including congrio frito (fried conger eel), so I ordered it with a salad. Mr. FB ordered the corvina (sea bass, another one of my must tries) a la plancha with fries. I ordered half a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to go with it.

Because we arrived a little after 1:00 p.m., we barely beat the lunch rush, so our food was served quickly. The conger eel looked like any other hunk of fried fish:



and it had a delicate flavor. I don’t think anyone tasting it blindly would think it was eel. The corvina was also delicious, slightly more flavorful than the congrio. The bill, including tip, was a little less than 19,000 pesos, or about US$38. I can’t imagine getting fish this fresh and wine for anywhere close to $38 back home (and I live in Florida).

Mr. FB wanted to visit the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, and we had passed it earlier without even realizing it. Therefore, we retraced our steps. On the way, we saw a Café Haiti, one of Santiago’s shops offering “Cafés con Piernas,” or coffee with legs. These shops sell coffee that is served by women wearing short short skirts. As a couple of guys who have been in a relationship for over seven years and married for nearly 18 months, it was the experience that interested us more than the scenery. This is one of those things anyone visiting Santiago should do, just because of its uniqueness.

After this break, we made it to the museum. The exhibits were well done. We both expected it to focus on items from Chile and were surprised to find artifacts from throughout the Incan empire. The pottery, textiles, gold, and other items did an excellent job of educating the visitor about the people who had lived in Chile and as far north as Mexico before Europeans arrived in the Americas.

It was not all Incan, however. These Chemamull gave some insight into the culture of the Mapuches:



When we left the museum, we walked east along Paseo Huérfanos past department stores, cafes, and shops, until we reached Cerro Santa Lucia. Thankfully, we were able to ascend the hill with the help of an elevator! When we got to the top, we decided to enjoy the scenery and the pleasant breezes. We got a couple of Diet Cokes and parked ourselves on a bench for at least thirty minutes. Then we began our gradual descent, pausing to take pictures here and there. We got a few with the Andes in the background, but imagine they would be much more striking if the mountains were covered in snow.

At the bottom of the hill, we took some time to admire the terraces we had just passed through



before walking to the Santa Lucia metro station, where we caught a train back to El Golf.

It was about 5:00 p.m. when we made it back to the hotel, and we relaxed for about two hours before dinner. We had our dinner in two parts. First we visited a Dominó where I had completo. That’s the Chilean hot dog with ketchup, American sauce (whatever that is), chopped tomatoes, and green salsa. Mr. FB got what I meant to get, the completo with palta (mashed avacado). Thankfully, these were not as big as some of the ones I had heard about, so they made excellent appetizers. (To be honest, I want another one before we leave.) Next, we visited a nearby Italian restaurant called Tiramisu and split an olive pizza. The crust was nice and crisp and there was very little sauce. The green and black olives were whole. I had an Austral Lager and Mr. FB had a mango sour.

Not surprisingly, our appetites were completely satisfied after going to two places for dinner. We have a lot more to see tomorrow in Santiago, so we need to keep up our strength!

Flying Buccaneer

We only had two items on today's itinerary: visiting La Chascona (Pablo Neruda's last house) and viewing Santiago from Cerro San Cristóbal. As we made our way from the room to the exit of the hotel, no fewer than three employees asked us what we had planned for the day and offered recommendations. The last to do so was Humberto, who suggested that we get the metro at Torrelaba instead of El Golf, and recommended a place to eat on Pio Nono, the street from the metro station to the places we wanted to visit.

We made the leisurely stroll to Torrelaba and caught the metro to Baquedano. Bellavista had a personality much different than any of the other areas we had visited in Santiago. We could tell it was different, even though it was not yet alive at noon. We stopped at Empanada Todo and ordered a couple of combos. I got the Salque (salmon and cheese) and Queron (cheese and shrimp) along with a drink. We got a table on the sidewalk and waited for our fried turnovers to be made. It took at least 15 minutes, a sign that they were being made to order, and they were worth the wait. A tasty, inexpensive, and filling lunch:



With our bellies full of fried dough and cheese, we continued on our way to La Chascona. Like Neruda's house at Isla Negra, you're not going to find La Chascona unless you are looking for it and have a map. We were looking, and we had a map, so we found it with no problem. We arrived at 1:10 p.m., and it occurred to both of us that maybe we should have checked beforehand to see when the tours in English were being conducted. Fortunately, the next one was at 2:00 p.m., meaning that we would have to wait for a little less than an hour. We went to the little cafe upstairs and ordered beverages and enjoyed them.

As we waited, a couple approached us and asked if they could borrow our Lonely Planet guide for a few minutes. They were from Brazil and headed to Easter Island, and they had not seen any guides to Easter Island. We were happy to loan them the guide, and told them we were jealous that they were going to Rapa Nui, because we had unsuccessfully tried to work it into our itinerary. Our conversation with them, along with watching others at the cafe, helped pass the time.

The tour of La Chascona was excellent. The setting of Isla Negra was much more spectacular, but his Santiago house reflected as much of the quirkiness of the poet, if not more, than the other one we visited.



Claudio, our guide, did a great job of discussing the history of the house. Even more interesting, he was not shy about discussing Neruda's politics, giving us some insight into the man.

After the tour was over, we lingered to take pictures and visit the gift shop. Then we made the short walk to Cerro San Cristobal. We stopped at the information kiosk, where we learned that the teleferico (gondola) was not running. Bummer! We bought our tickets for the funicular and waited for our ride up the hill. Unfortunately, the front car was packed, so we settled for the view in the back. While the more spectacular view is looking downhill, looking uphill was pretty good, too.



After the ride up the hill, we took lots of pictures and relaxed. After a cold drink, I wanted to try the mote con huesillo (corn and dehydrated peach with a very sweet peach-flavored water). It was good, but a little too sweet for me. I preferred the lucuma popsicle!

We walked a little farther up the hill and took pictures of the status of the Virgin Mary, then took pictures of the city below. The lack of snow in the Andes and haze in Santiago didn't provide much of a contrast, but we got the best photos of the city we had taken during our stay.



After shopping for postcards and a couple of souvenirs, we realized that it was 5:00 p.m. Where had the afternoon gone? We took the funicular back down, once again missing a shot at the front car. The walk down Pio Nono seemed longer than the walk up, and we caught the metro back to Torrelaba.

Because we are leaving for the airport at 5:00 a.m., we decided to have an early dinner. After we returned to the hotel, we went back to Dominó. Somehow, we figured that a couple of dogs would be the best last meal we could have in Chile!



We've both enjoyed our much too brief stay in this wonderful country. We could happily spend another six days here, but Argentina awaits!

Eastbay1K

Great report - and we just missed each other -we landed at 6am on a fantastic morning here.

Flying Buccaneer

Thanks! We arrived at the airport around 5:30 a.m. and boarded our flight at 7:00 a.m., so we literally passed each other. Have a great time in Chile. Our flight to EZE was great, but I will report on that later today.

Flying Buccaneer

The last day of 2009 came early for us, a wake up call at 4:00 a.m. We packed on Wednesday night, so all we had to do was shower, dress, check out, and wait for the taxi. It's difficult to express how really fantastic our experience at the W Santiago was, from check-in to check-out, and even after. As we waited for about 10 minutes for our taxi, the bellman who helped us with our bags waited with us and kept us company.

Because the streets were empty, we made it to SCL in about 25 minutes. In fact, we only encountered two very minor snags:

(1) We could not find LAN's premium check-in desk, but asking someone took care of that.
(2) Mr. FB lost the piece of paper he had filled out before entering Chile last Friday and had to complete another form.

Those slight issues behind us, we did a little shopping and headed to the LAN VIP Lounge. It looked as though we were the first ones there, and we helped ourselves to beverages (including excellent pineapple and strawberry juice) and snacks while we waited for our flight to board. A little before 7:00 a.m., we made our way to gate 15.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

LAN Airlines 405
SCL-EZE
Scheduled Departure/Arrival: 7:30 a.m/9:25 a.m.
Actual Departure/Arrival: 7:31 a.m./9:25 a.m.
767-300
Seats 3A and 3C

Boarding had been underway for nearly 10 minutes when we reached the gate, and we boarded and found our seats very quickly. The business class cabin of the 767 looked clean and spacious, and the seats were a bit more comfortable than those we had with AA on the MIA-SCL flight. Before we even got settled, a FA offered us a choice of beverages. A few minutes later, the lead FA introduced herself, thanked us for flying LAN, and asked us where we were from. Next time we visit Chile, we're flying LAN!

The door closed at 7:31 a.m. and the plane pushed back a couple of minutes later. The taxi to the runway took some time, and we were airborne at 7:47 a.m. Soon after takeoff, there was an announcement that the seat belt sign would stay on until after we had crossed the Andes. I had no plans to get up anyway, because I wanted to take pictures as we crossed.





As soon as the crossing was complete, the seat belt sign was turned off. Almost instantly, the FAs were in the aisles with breakfast service.



I think this was considered a "light" breakfast, but it was actually quite filling. The chocolate chip muffin came on the tray, and a FA came around with a basket of breads. When I asked for a croissant, she offered me more, but that was plenty. We were also offered coffee, tea, and other beverages on three occasions with breakfast. I am not sure if this type of service is SOP with LAN, but it's another reason I want to fly LAN next time we go to Chile.

Our flight landed at 9:11 a.m. and was at the gate four minutes later, and it took another ten minutes for the door to be opened. Once off the plane, everything went smoothly. We paid our $131 reciprocity fee, went through immigration, claimed our bags, and went through customs in a matter of 15 minutes. We found our driver and were on our way to the Park Tower.

The driver with QuickCar was quiet until we reached the city, but that changed as we rode down Avenida 9 de Julio. He gave an excellent tour of the wide boulevard, and as we rode around Plaza San Martin, he warned us "don't cross there at night." We reached the hotel and someone came out to take our bags and direct us to a check-in desk. Walking into the lobby was quite the experience; it is quite grand.

While we checked in and enjoyed our check-in drink, the agent welcomed us and informed us that our room was an "enhanced room, one for platinum members," but it would not be ready for another hour or so. She also told us that, since we paid with Starpoints, breakfast was not included, but it would be served on the second floor.

We decided to walk around for awhile, so we headed toward Calle Florida. At 10:45 a.m., it was already teeming with people. We popped into Galleries Pacifico, had some coffee, and did a lot of people watching on the pedestrian street.



As we approached the end, we took a left and walked toward Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosado.



As we passed the noon hour, we realized we were tired and hungry, and that finding a place to sit for awhile might be a good idea. We headed north along Avenida de Mayo, hoping that we would be able to visit Cafe Tocino. Unfortunately, the line outside the Cafe was about 30 people deep. We decided lunch would be more appropriate than dulces anyway, and went to a nearby Italian restaurant name Piecere.

After lunch, we continued walking up Avenida de Mayo until we reached Avenida 9 de Julio. We stopped in Carrefour for water and snacks and made our way to the Subte. As we were about to cross the street, I shocked Mr. FB by motioning for a taxi. (He is the taxi guy, I am the public transportation guy.) While $3 for the taxi was about 5 times as much as a ride on the subte, it was still just $3!

Back at the hotel, we were a little unnerved that our bags were exactly where we had left them about four hours earlier, but everything was still there. I waited until one of the check in desks was available, and got the keys to our room. I gave the claim checks our room number to one of the bellmen, and we went up to our room.

The room was beautiful, with a great view of the English Tower, Retiro Station, and the Rio de la Plata. We were ready for a nap, so we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Eventually, I decided that I should unpack for our five-day stay. After that, we decided to have an early dinner.

That's when I remembered Eastbay1K's advice about New Year's Eve. There were a few places serving a New Year's Eve dinner, but by 7:00 p.m., almost every place was closed. As we were about to give up hope, Mr. FB suggested we try the bar at the Marriott Plaza. Great idea! We got the last table and enjoyed drinks, snacks, and empanadas while we admired the leather upholstered wall at the other end.

Still exhausted, going back to the room and getting to sleep before midnight seemed like a good idea. I know, not the best way to ring in the new year. However, the plan was foiled when we returned to our room a little after 8:00 p.m. As I reached into the safe to retrieve my computer, I stepped in a puddle. I looked up and saw that the A/C was leaking. Immediately, I called reception and reported it. About 10 minutes later, a technician came to take care of it. He removed a ceiling panel and water came pouring down. We went outside, brought back a plastic bag, and drained some more. After that, he replaced the panel and said that housekeeping would be by to clean up the mess.

After 30 minutes had passed, I called reception again, but no one answered. I was tired, and now I was aggravated. I went to the lobby, and Mr. FB went along to keep me under control. I explained to the agent at reception that we had waited for someone to clean the mess, and that we were concerned that the problem had not really been fixed. She apologized, but said that the hotel was completely full (?). I told her that I understood, but that I was a little disappointed that the problem had occurred in the first place and that it was taking so long to fix.

It's too late to make this long story short, but somehow, another room became available. We met the butler at the room, and she apologized for the inconvenience and said she would move everything from the old room to the new. We had never even seen, nor heard from, a butler in our old room. She also provided a bottle of wine and a tray of fruit and chocolates, again, for our inconvenience. As Mr. FB commented, it's almost like we are staying at a different hotel.

The Park Tower did a good job of recovering from the problem, and something good did come from it. The process of moving shook us out of our tired state and allowed us to stay up past midnight local time. Unlike last year, when we brought in the new year with about 100,000 of our closest friends in freezing Dam Square, this year we watched spontaneous firework displays from our hotel room in warm Buenos Aires.

Happy New Year, everyone!

Kiwi Flyer

Happy New Year Flying Buccaneer, and thanks for the great report of your nice trip ^^

Flying Buccaneer

Thanks Kiwi Flyer, and Happy New Year to you, too! NZ is the next big trip we have planned (Aug 30 - Sep 18). It will be my 10th time in NZ, Mr. FB's 2nd.

Eastbay1K

By the way, Congrio really isn't an eel. But it is translated as "Conger Eel." Don't ask me why. Well, you can ask, but I don't have a good answer

Flying Buccaneer

It was fun to say I ate eel, anyway! I hope you are having a great time in Chile. Have a pisco sour for me!

Flying Buccaneer

My day started at 8:00 a.m. with tea and muffins from the butler. Mr. FB was still asleep, so I drank all of the tea but left one of the muffins for him. Like many other food products in Argentina, the muffins had some dulce de leche on the inside, making good muffins even better. Because this was the first time in my 50 years that I had ever had tea delivered by a butler, I made sure I captured the tray in picture form:



After all, I don't know when it will happen again. Oh wait, I do know when... tomorrow!

When Mr. FB awoke, I gave him the other muffin and waited for him to get ready to go downstairs for breakfast. As a gesture for the inconvenience we had to go through when changing rooms last night, the hotel offered us breakfast this morning. That was quite a gesture, and we realized just how generous it was when we went to the breakfast room on the hotel's second floor. With a nice variety of hot items, sweets, cheeses, meats, breads, pastries, and fruits, one could probably make breakfast the big meal of the day. But pacing yourself is a good idea in Buenos Aires!

We came back to the room after breakfast and relaxed for about an hour before setting off on today's adventure. Because today was New Year's Day, just about everything was closed in Buenos Aires, so there really was no place we needed to be. The lack of activity did offer the rare opportunity to wander the streets of the city without having to deal with crowds. Before we left at 12:30 p.m., I took a picture from our window to show how deserted the area was.



We decided to visit Palermo and Recoleta, so we walked to Retiro station to catch the Subte to Diagonal Norte and then to Plaza Italia. We were surprised to see a lot of activity there, and quickly realized that it was because of the Dakar Rally. Our driver had explained on the ride from the airport that it was going to start today from the Obelisk, but apparently the real start is tomorrow. We were where all of the cars, trucks, and other vehicles were being staged and apparently inspected before the rally really starts.



We walked along Avenida Sarmiento to Avenida del Libertador and saw some of the big trucks that were apparently transporting drivers and vehicles to the Obelisk for the opening ceremony. We turned around and walked through Plaza Seeber back toward Plaza Italia. As we walked, we realized that we were being swarmed by something, and that something turned out to be mosquitos. Not just a few mosquitos. I looked at the backs of my legs and saw that my calves were covered, so I swatted them away. Mr. FB's legs were covered also, so I swatted his away as well.

We had planned to visit the Botanic Garden, but we were no longer in the park/garden mood. Accessing the Plaza Italia was a little problematic, as access in this side of Sarmiento was restricted, but we finally reached Avenida Santa Fe again. Every business we passed on the street was closed. As we reached the Plaza Italia Subte stop, we saw a Kentucky Pizza (because Kentucky is known for its pizza?) that was open. It was a little after 2:00 p.m., so we stopped for lunch.

Even if the name is a little strange to a couple of gringos, the place was packed. I am not sure if that was because of its pizza or the lack of alternatives. Anyway, the pizza was good, and the promos were a good value. We got a large pizza with 1.5 liters of Coke Zero for 50 pesos, about $13. Unfortunately, there was more pizza than we could eat, so we left half of it. At least we didn't waste as much as the four members of the Czech racing team at the next table who ordered three large pizzas!

We caught the Subte and went a few stops to Puerreydon so that we could walk over to Recoleta Cemetery. On my previous trip to Bs As, I had not visited Eva Peron's tomb, but we thought it would be something interesting to do on a day that did not offer many other activities. It's a pretty long walk (about 2 km) from the Subte stop to the cemetery, and it's not exactly easy to find the entrance if you have not done your homework. However, it's a worthwhile activity, even if you are not looking for Evita's tomb. The tombs are spectacular, even if many of them have crumbled a bit. And, yes, Evita's does attract more than its fair share of visitors.



After visiting the cemetery, we wandered around the tents and stalls that had been set up by people selling crafts and other items. Then we happened upon a series of sidewalk cafes that were open (!)



and thought relaxing with a Quilmes on the warm afternoon would be a great idea!

Refreshed, we decided to walk directly back to the hotel instead of walking just a slightly shorter distance back to the Subte stop. Libertador was blockaded for the rally, but we found a place to cross and made it back to the hotel.

After a shower and a nap, we didn't have enough energy to leave the hotel again. We had beers and shared a sandwich at a cafe in the Sheraton and returned to the room. With three more full days (and a late departure on the fourth), we still have plenty of time and plenty to explore.

opushomes

on the same beach as in your photo.

"Unfortunately, we never saw any penguins, but we did see one of the most beautiful beaches either of us has ever seen:"

Great report. It brings back a multitude of memories.

Flying Buccaneer

Thanks opushomes. Not seeing penguins at Cachagua gives us an excuse to go back!