Has anyone ever stayed at the Banyan Tree in Bangkok? How would you compare it to The Pen?

Argh! After 6+ years with no kids, this is the first I've seen this. Why didn't you look out for us?

With the kids coming in February, maybe I should start looking for that Aman in Orlando?

Mike

Yes, unfortunately I have stayed at Banyan BK, and no, you cannot even think of comparing it with The Pen. Banyan Tree took over the management from Westin, so it still looks like a Westin. It bears no resemblance to a Banyan Tree Resort. Views are of office blocks. Pollution is bad.

If you want to stay in this area (which is very difficult to access thanks to the terrible traffic), then you would be much better staying at the Sukhothai or The Metropolitan, which are both a short walk away.

The Pen in on the Chao Phrya River, so the feeling is quite different - open, airy, less polluted, more to see, more to do, less traffic etc etc. Stabdards of service here are in a different league, with superb food and service and great river views from every room and suite. No contest.

I just finished my glorious Thailand trip and I can tell you the following:

1. We did 2 nights @ Peninsula BKK in a Duplex Suite. All I can say is WOW. From the moment we walked out of customs to the moment they escorted us back through airport check-in when we left, we felt like VIPs. The airport transfer service is a must, and a great deal to boot.

We were greeted by name at the door upon arrival and whisked directly up to our suite for in-room check in. This is the first hotel that has done in-room check in for us, and we've stayed at some pretty amazing places, including Georges V in Paris. Welcome fruit, tea, pastries, etc...Facilities are top-notch, the hotel is large but quiet. Staff is incredible (though the restaurant staff are a bit on the slow an inattentive side considering how good everyone else is). The riverboat service is super convenient and really made a big difference in our stay. Breakfast is included if you book through Virtuoso or Amex PTS, and it's quite substantial. There's an amazing mix of tropical fruit, western breads and pastries, eastern noodles & stir-frys, eggs prepared several ways, etc... We did not try the spa, but we went inside and it looked quite nice. You must visit the 37th floor heli-lounge (direct access from our suite), as it's spectacular.

I would definitely pick the Pen if we went back to BKK (though I might not spring for such a ridiculously large suite (3500 sq. feet).

2. Four Seasons Tented Camp Chiang Rai - by far my BEST hotel experience in the world, ever. Arrival by boat is included in the lofty price and is an experience not to be missed. Michel the resident manager makes an effort to greet each new arrival and he literally will sit and chat with you about all kinds of things if you like.

Food and drink is also included (the entire resort is 100% all-inclusive, right down to a 90 minute spa treatment), and it's quite good. You're literally in the middle of the jungle, yet the staff is somehow able to do a better job than any city hotel I've ever visited. Everyone learns your name and food/drink preferences almost immediately. Service is damn near telepathic and they seem to anticipate nearly every desire.

The elephant experience is almost life changing, and is quite fun. Who knew these giant creatures were so gentle and intelligent. The tour guides are super-knowledgeable and also quickly learn your preferences about what you enjoy seeing and doing. They even carry your shopping bags for you. The bugs are omnipresent and bug repellent is a religion here, but as long as you constantly reapply you'll do just fine.

We only stayed 3 nights because that's what most people on tripadvisor said to do. I easily could have spent 4 or even 5 nights here.

A word of advice: Rack rate is over US$2140 per day (no joke); if you combine your stay with a few nights at either FS Chiang Mai or FS BKK you get a drastically reduced rate. However, we were able to negotiate a reduced rate directly with Michel of about $1750 per night, with no requirement to stay at other FS properties.

3. Trisara - what a paradox this place is. The facilities are first class all the way, and the villas are simply spectacular. When you're sitting out on your patio overlooking your private infinity pool and the Andaman Sea in the background you simply think "I've arrived, and I never want to leave". The food runs the gamut from good to excellent, and the spa treatments are quite nice (if not a ridiculous ripoff even by American standards).

However there is a dark side to my dear Trisara: her staff. They try really hard - perhaps harder than most places, but they are simply not five-star caliber. There are the de rigeur touches of cold towels and water bottles everywhere, but they can barely speak English and misunderstood us probably 30% of the time. There is no proper concierge, and the staff is unable to provide any recommendations beyond the pre-written guidebook by General Manager Anthony Lark (of Amanpuri). The personal waiter who took care of us during our romantic in-villa BBQ was hovering near our table the entire time and kept wanting to make mindless small talk to show off his limited English. He was sweet and had a kind heart, but it was slightly disruptive and it definitely kept a 5-star experience from being truly 5-stars.

The other severe negative about Trisara is its location. If you're the type to just lay out on the beach and get spa treatments all day, then fine. But if you like to go out and sightsee, shop, go to other beaches, etc...then it's a minimum of 20 minutes to get to the closest place and up to 45 or 60 minutes to get to the more populated and busier areas.

I suspect for a first time visit to Phuket it might be better for someone to stay at a slightly larger, more centrally located resort like the JW or perhaps at a resort that offers more than 1 dining option like Banyan Tree or Amanpuri.

YMMV

I envy your trip to Tented Camp - we were there a year ago this month and it was amazing. Agree with pretty much all of your coments - the local staff are absolutely phenomenal and we were glad we spent four nights there despite the fact that it cost a small fortune. Only drawbacks for us were sub-par spa treatments and the fact that we didn't ever get so much as a smile or a hello from the manager (don't know if it was the same guy who is there now), which for our four-night stay in a tiny propery that was never more than 60% full, was surprising to us. Still, would return in a heartbeat (if someone else were paying!) ...

I've stayed at both. The suites are much much nicer at the Pen but I am one of the few who didn't experience the legendary Pen service despite booking through lhw. In fact I was disappointed with their service. On both my stays at the Banyan Tree I found the service very warm and it's my favourite if I'm just there to shop. If you're staying at the Banyan you must opt for the Club rooms though it can get a bit crowded in the lounge sometimes. If it's your first trip to BKK then you have to stay by the river for the ambience.

Michel and his wife just arrived about 2 or 3 months ago, and they do a fantastic job. They are present and available at all hours and ensure everyone has a once in a lifetime experience. He just came from FS Provence, and FS Georges V before that, so he definitely has service on his mind!

Our spa treatment was quite nice (though not the best I've ever had). Perhaps my largest gripe is that it was supposed to be a 90 minute treatment but IIRC we only got about 70 minutes of table time. They included our undressing/ foot wash/ re-dressing as part of the 90 minute treatment. Bogus if you ask me!

Personally, I must say that I would not stay in the MO in Bangkok if it cost 1/3 of what it does, and it were the last hotel in Bangkok with vacancies. Early last December, I walked into the MO to inquire about availability for a weekend splurge in Bangkok as an upgrade from the place I was staying (the decent, but much more pedestrian Royal Orchid Sheraton). I was dressed in a pair of nice shorts and a polo shirt in the usual 92 degree 90% humidity Bangkok weather. On my way into the hotel (actually, perhaps 30 meters before reaching the front door), I was immediately approached by security and informed that I was not attired suitably to walk into the building to inquire about rates and availability nor to check out the common grounds of the hotel. I explained that I was looking to upgrade to a deluxe property for the weekend and the MO's reputation preceeded it, so of course I wanted to check it out as a prime candidate for this splurge. Well, the security officer felt it necessary to accompany me to the front desk while I made my inquiry, and escort me out the door when I was done. I was not allowed to walk around the lobby to check out the place, and it's shopping and dining and lounges. Finally, I asked him if I could get on their boat to the BTS station, and he told me yes, but actually gave me directions to the public pier - who's ferry charges for the 1/2 km trip, rather than the MO's complimentary ferry. In any case, obviously, I did not stay there - especially after being treated with the utmost courtesy that one would expect from the folks at the Pen, the Shangri-La, and the Lebua. To make a long story short, I would vastly prefer any one of those other 3 places to the MO - and in fact, I don't believe that I will ever in my life patronize a MO hotel anywhere in the world.

To make a long story short, I chose the Shangri-La for my upgrade splurge, because I felt that the location was more convenient than the Pen across the river, due to it's proximity to the BTS. It was extremely nice, and met all of my expectations. And I have never been so disgusted in my life by my shabby treatment in ANY luxury property as I was during my 10 minutes on the premises of the MO Bangkok.

I cannot comprehend how the MO has garnered it's excellent reputation - I can't fathom being treated that way in a Holiday Inn, let alone a luxury property, and I most assuredly will never set foot in any MO property again - when there are deluxe options like 4S, and Pen, and RC, and Aman, and St. Regis, and Shangri-La, etc, etc, etc, that actually understand that the concept of luxury hospitality is in pampering their guests, not in being effete snobs.

The no-shorts-in-Lobby rule is the most ridiculous policy I have ever encountered in luxury hotels.

Especially in a hotel in a city where the weather is routinely in the 90+ degrees, 90%+ humidity range as Bangkok's weather is.

Having stayed at The Oriental BK for decades, with Mr Vuitton and myself often wearing shorts when out and about (a respectable length, naturally), I have never been stopped by anyone.

A steely stare, shoulders back and an air of complete confidence works every time, but if you look nervous and scuttle in, then yes, the style police may pounce.

When the legendary Mr Wachtveitl finally retires I think you will find that dress codes will relax a tad.

Except you're not! It's a clever illusion created by the fact they whisk you there by boat.

Our included spa treatment was just eh ... like you it seemed like they cut the treatment as far short as they could get away with, and there was a spider that was a bit of an issue. It kept climbing up my extremities during the massage and the massage therapist just kept knocking it off me so that 5 minutes later it was back on me. Not relaxing. After she did it twice I asked her to please either kill it or toss it outside.

My wife signed up for an additional pedicure which they said they would only do poolside - seriously, they wouldn't do it at our tent or at the spa ... so there's my wife getting her pedicure next to the tiny pool where the honeymoon couple is trying to have a pleasant splash. My wife said it was one of the worst pedicures she's ever had although I don't know what that means exactly, having never had a pedicure...

Ironically, the spa manager (who oversees this property and the FS CM) was at the tented camp for part of our stay - she wasn't that interested in hearing our comments. Other than the spa experience though service was over-the-moon fantastic.

Agree completely. We didn't have any grief about shorts in public areas. I think the staff is discretely tuned in, however, to who is a registered guest and who isn't ... I suspect that if you aren't recognized as someone who is staying there you are more likely to get stopped by security over wardrobe issues.

It's possible that my shorts (Dockers) and shirt (Nike) did not sport suitably snobby enough designer labels for me to have been allowed on the premises of the MO Bangkok.

I've never been known to have a shortage of confidence.