<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">…..that have earned Sang a large following among Asian diners and adventurous American eaters. Indeed, I learned about him from mainland Chinese students at Case Western Reserve University. They said food in the brightly lit storefront reminded them of home.

Sang's specialty is seafood. That's not surprising, because he grew up in Shanghai, the mainland's largest port city. A metal pot brought to the table the other night, for example, contained a delicate broth full of octopus, fish balls, shrimp, mussels, lobster and see-through noodles. Later, a waiter arrived with a platter of crunchy wok-seared flounder in shiny black bean sauce. The battered fish was tender and utterly without grease.

The Chinese menu can be problematic for Americans. Items are characters and not words, though oddly, they're numbered. Ordering requires asking for direction from servers whose translation skills are not perfect. My advice is to tell your waiter that you want to order from the authentic menu. Then say you like chicken and vegetables - or seafood or soup or whatever. You can always point at something on someone else's table and ask for it.
In any case, the food won't cost you more. Chinese dishes run about the same as Chinese-American ones. Expect to pay $6.50 to $13 for main courses.

There's always the Chef's Special section on the English menu for those who want to first put a toe in the water. I've generally been satisfied with these dishes. A good bet: Hunan Pan-Fried Noodles, a kitchen-sink coalition of shrimp, scallops, chicken, beef and assorted vegetables laced with thick egg noodles in brown sauce ($10.95). Another: rich and satisfying Walnut Chicken and Scallops ($7.95).</font>

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"> The Cantonese translation for dim sum is "hearts delight," and on weekends, the rolling dim sum carts are especially loaded with dozens of varieties, many of which aren't on the menu. This "moving buffet," as one guest called it, is presented by ladies who do their best to communicate with non-Asian guests. We exchanged a series of questions and answers, and our table soon had six or seven stainless steel baskets filled with goodies.

On weekends, Won Ton Soup, $3.50, is handcrafted tableside. Uncooked won tons are added to a large basin of broth, then choy sum, a Chinese green, is taken from a cubbyhole full of it and trimmed into the broth. The soup is stirred for several minutes, and scallions are tossed into the large bowl and served. Without a doubt, the most fragrant and flavorful won ton soup I have ever eaten. </font>