sleeper

We are going to Mexico City- staying at the W- for Memorial Day weekend. Any good recommendations for authentic Mexican food? Any other suggestions? I've never been before and am a little wary of the crime, but the city is supposed to be beautiful.

John Galt

I've never eaten at Izote, but I did eat at Siete in Cancun. Quintana is originally from Oaxaca, home of some of the best food in Mexico (although others will argue for Puebla). Her food is "Nueva Mexican;" like Charlie Trotter's is "New American." It's traditional Mexican ingrdients with French techniques....examples of two dishes I've had and loved include "shrimp marinated in vanilla" and a souffle of mole negro (the traditional sauce made with chiles and chocolate). She makes an effort to highlight wines from Mexican wineries....I'm no wine expert, but I liked what I tasted.

Incidentally, I had a conversation with the Hertz guy in Cancun last week...made the same comment about safety. He said that Vincente Fox had done the same job of cleaning up MEX as Giuliani did in cleaning up NYC a few years ago...also, according to one of my cab drivers, the current mayor of MEX (cannot remember his name; he's with the PRD party) is the leading contender to be the next President of Mexico...so he must be doing something right. Or so the cab driver thought....an I usually trust cab drivers more than pundits.

Justanother1k

I can help a little bit here. As far as authentic Mexican food goes, most locals agree that "authentic" Mexican food means traditional food, and is what our maids cook in our homes, since they have learned and practiced the traditional form of preparation since they were little girls in small villages. Many maids are sought after for their cooking skills and occasionally poached from friends (which is a quick way to kill a friendship, trust me). Anyway, we tend not to go out for true Mexican as it is better in one another's homes. Another "real" alternative is the street food, which I personally don't eat for the sanitation reasons, but it is authentic. A lot of people swear by it, and you can find "authentic" regional food from all over Mexico being served in these stands and small "fondas" all over Mexico City. That said, the one thing we all go out for is tacos. Taking the above into account, here are some recommendations. Your hotel concierge will know of them.

Las Sirenas: A variety of traditional Mexican food on a beautiful terrace behind the Cathedral in the Zocalo, with the "pat, pat" sound of fresh tortillas being made in the background. A personal favorite.
Danubio: Traditional restaurant in the "Centro" with great Mexican-style fish and shellfish. A favorite of local politicians and Mexican presidents.
San Angel Inn and Hacienda de los Morales: I have been to too many bad wedding receptions at both to have anything good to say about them, but they are traditional favorites serving both Mexican and Continental food. The one good thing I can say about them is that they are both beautiful, traditional places and the worst thing is that the waiters seem to be walking around to save funeral expenses. Tip: Tequila helps you get used to the service. Guidebooks adore these two places, as did my parents and grandparents.
Lago de Las Cisnes: On Prado Norte in Las Lomas. For tacos, this is about as high end and as clean as it gets. "Beautiful" people from the neighborhood pack this place on weekends, when their maids are off, since none of the women know how to cook. Whatever else you order, a couple tacos "al pastor" are required eating. Not formal. Wear jeans. Another personal favorite.
La Valentina: An upscale chain of 3, the one in Polanco is beloved by visitors and locals alike. The food is "new" Mexican, and extremely good. Not "authentic" but you eat well there and can taste what is happening in "evolved" Mexican cuisine. Think Frontera Grill or Topolobampo in Chicago. It is in a shopping mall, albeit an elegant one, but once you are inside, you forget about it. Villa Maria, also in Polanco, is a less frequented but equally good alternative, and I prefer it.
A few more personal favorites, not Mexican per se, but with plenty of Mexican-inspired dishes on the menu:
Naos-On Palmas in Las Lomas, owned in part by Monica Patino, known as one of the best chef's in the city, this is the center of the universe for older (30+) "beautiful" people at the moment (i.e. this month), full of buzz at lunchtime and at dinner on weekends after 9. If you want to see upscale Mexicans doing what they do best, which is eating, drinking and spending a lot of money, it doesn't get much hotter than this. The grilled oysters "ostiones a las brazas" are amazingly good. On the downside, it is in a non-descript office tower. Again, once you are inside, you forget about it.
Bellinghausen: A traditional place to have lunch in the Zona Rosa. Go on a nice day, sit outside in a beautiful colonial plaza and relax over a few tequilas. The seafood is particularly good here. Been going there since I was 2 or 3, and it never changes. Always a pleasure.

If you want something different, my vote for the best restaurant in Mexico City goes to Bakea, a French-Basque restaurant in Las Lomas. Maybe as good as Akelare and Arzak in San Sebastian.

Finally, I have to put in a plug for a evening walk/bar tour/dinner in my neighborhood, the Condesa. Walk down Tamulipas in the late evening and stop at various bars, cafes shops and restaurants that look appealing along the way. Wander the side streets (Michoacan) as well. It's hip, happening, full of life and you won't find a lot of other tourists. A good place to start would be the bar at the nearby Hotel Condesa.

Hope this helps.

sleeper

Wow Justanother1k, I'm overwhelmed! Thank you for the response. I know I love to share my favorites in Atlanta with visitors. I'm well travelled and jaded enough to believe travel guides aren't probably the best choice for recommendations. My Texan husband, who is a fan of mole, will appreciate your suggestions as well. Gracias

Justanother1k

My pleasure, have a great time. The tourists who get into trouble are almost inevitably found in typical tourist spots (Zona Rosa) and are stupidly and obviously drunk when they do so. Don't take street taxis. Don't wear expensive jewelry. Leave most cash and credit cards in hotel. And most importantly, don't worry.

chtiet

Agree with everything stated, and will add this:
* The Hacienda de los Morales (not too far from the W) is beautiful and interesting, but the food, apart from their signature dishes (such as Huitlacoche-Crepes), is good, but not excellent.
* The same goes for Naos - the last time I was there, about 3 months ago, out of the 3 entrees at the table, 1 was excellent, while the other two were, hm, a bit unexpectedly mediocre. Appetizers were very good though.
* IMO, El Cardenal has one of the best "traditional Mexican" cuisines in town. At the moment, there are two branches, both downtown, one in the new Sheraton hotel opposite Bellas Artes, and the other on Palma, one block from the Zocalo. Excellent 100% Mexican food served at both. Don't be intimidated by the fact that one of them is in the Sheraton - the restaurant still caters to locals, and not only to tourists. The Palma location is a bit more traditional in feel, as it is housed in a colonial building. Great for a break if you're sightseeing in the city center.

USAFAN

Posted by Justanother1k:

We have been at San Angel Inn (in San Angel). You are correct, the food is not very good, but the ambiance is just great! After dinner we always had Margarita in the garden. BTW, our service was O.K.

One other place: Breakfast at a hotel at/near Zocalo. Roofgarden with a view over Zocalo Place. On Sundays they have a cheap, not very good buffet. Many Mexicans come there ... great place!

El Cochinito

I can also vouch for El Cardenal; I've had several great breakfasts and dinners at both locations over the years. Most recently La Cochinita visited the Palma location with my brother-in-law and seated at the next table was the aforementioned Mayor and leading contender to be El Presidente (the Palma location is a favorite of the politicos from the nearby Congress).

techgirl

Any updates from the locals on restaurants to try?

I'll be down there with a friend for Labor Day. We both love great/innovative cuisine and will also be looking for a lively late night scene (as I'm told the W is so "past" its prime ).

(Staying at the W - so neighborhood spots are especially appreciated!)

coplatsat

I went to a new steak place in Polanco down the street from Rincon Argentina which is the franchise of an existing Argentian restaurant in Buenos Aires. It is called puerto maderas (I think).

techgirl

Interesting... might be worth a check out. Puerto Madero is a neighborhood in BsAs with some very good steakhouses.

vivrant

I was in Cancun this past weekend and noticed that there is a Puerto Madero Argentian restaurant there as well (didn't try it out though).

FWIW, the famed Le Cirque 2000 from NYC has a branch at the Camino Real Hotel (Le Cirque, D.F.) which gets good reviews locally. But as you can imagine, it's in the $$$$+ price range.

coplatsat

It is puerto madero. It was very good but pricey. We did drink a lot though. You walk in and their is a case of meat and sea food. Impressive. Upstairs is nice and has a bar. We ate at the table right around the corner, kind of in a corner, from the host stand. It was very crowded for lunch and had to tip to get a table. Reservations may be prudent.

I am fairly well travelled by normal standards (not by this board) and I would state that some of the best restaurants in the world are in DF. You can not beat the atmosphere or the service or the bread.

My only complaint about DF is that at many places the bathrooms are in a dungeon. I can not help but think of the big earth quake and expedite my visits.

For sea food, Los Arcos is very good. It is from Guadalajara or somewhere in Jalisco. Red Snapper or Robollo (sea bass????) a la talla is excellent so is whole red snapper or robollo in salsa verde.

Question-In DF there are a lot of restaurants that cater to the office worker to pick up meals on the way home from work. They display a bunch of different cooked meats in the window and have sides. Think of boston market with a lot more than chicken. What is everyone's opinion as to the whether this concept would work in the US?

techgirl

Has anyone dined at this restaurant?

DO - Denominacion de Origen
Calle hegel #406 Local 3,
Col Bosques de Chapultepec
Mexico City, ol Bosques de Chapultepec 11560

Stumbled upon it while doing searches for Polanco and it looked interesting.

http://www.denominaciondeorigendo.com/

coplatsat

No, but on their menu they have jamon iberico for appetizer, this is suppose to be the best (cured-dried) ham in the world. It is obtained from pigs that are grazed in oak orchards and primarily eat acorns.

Try it, and report.

If you speak some spanish, it is best to look at the menu in spanish. Often the english translations is not what you actually get.