Checked out today after a great holiday stay. The Christmas spirit is in full swing here, and it was the perfect base for our Budapest trip.

Thanks toTRAVELSIGandLondonjetsetterfor their advice on the hotel in advance.

Property and Check-In


The beauty of the property strikes you immediately as you approach it. My camera can’t do justice to it, but photos of the facade and the grand, beautiful lobby are all over the internet.

The hotel was decked out in lights and decorations for Christmas. There was a huge tree:



And even a small Christmas market inside the lobby:



While festive, the lobby market was nothing like the ones outside (this one had stalls selling furs, perfumes and high-end chocolates). Not really for us, and did more to draw crowds from outside than anything. One of the (very) few things we didn’t love about the hotel.

At check-in, our FSPP benefits were explained and special requests noted. This is where I’ll mention my only two remaining gripes about an otherwise-fantastic hotel and stay:

- The amenities of the hotel weren’t well explained at check-in. We didn’t know there was a hot tub (didn’t see this mentioned in the in-room booklet either) until our third day when we finally went to the spa. Not a huge deal, but we probably would’ve gone earlier had we known.

- Wifi, as mentioned in this forum before, was quite slow throughout our stay. I didn’t get much of a boost from plugging into ethernet either. Not bad enough to spring for the 30eur/day premium access, but bad enough to be a little annoying at times.

Room

On the advice of FT’ers, we booked a Danube River View room. It was large enough for two without feeling cramped.





The bathroom was pretty big, with L’Occitane toiletries.





The furnishings are nice enough, but the “wow” here comes from the view of the Chain Bridge, which is stunning at any time of day.







Service

The service was generally excellent, starting well before our stay and continuing until checkout.

A few highlights:

- Prior to arrival, I requested extra water bottles and bath towels to be placed in the room. This was noted at check-in, the additional items were already in the room, and we were given extras every day both during regular housekeeping and at turndown. That’s 8 bottles of water per day.
- Each night at turndown, there were treats placed in our room:



I mentioned to one of the staff that we loved the coconut balls (received at turndown our second night). The next day, another team member emailed me the recipe, and on our last night, we received a big plate of them:



- The spa lent us workout shoes and clothes to use in the gym, delivered on arrival.
- On on our last night (the night before Christmas Eve), we got many treats. In addition to the coconut candy, they left gingerbread cookies, another plate of fruit tarts and madeleines, as well as a nice FS-branded box of Hungarian Christmas candy.

Location

Directly across the street from the Chain Bridge, I can’t think of a hotel that we saw with a better location, though many of the better Budapest hotels (IC, Sofitel, Le Meridien) are in this general area. It was a perfect HQ for sightseeing, tours, Andrassy Ave and the Opera, as well as a short walk to many of the superb restaurants we tried (Borkonyha, Aszu and Klassz were our favorites).

Dining

We had breakfast via room service every day. It was always well prepared and tasty:





The Hungarian Scrambled Eggs and Scottish Smoked Salmon Bagel were particularly good. Probably due to drinking bottles of Hungarian wine followed by Unicum each night, I never felt up to trying the foie gras omelet.

We also enjoyed the hotel bar a couple of times, where the staff is very pleasant and brings around tasty canapes while you drink. The setting is quite cozy and relaxing.

Didn’t get a chance to eat at Gresham, the hotel restaurant. I’ve heard that it was very good, but nothing on the menu particularly excited us and we ended up canceling our reservation and heading to Klassz instead (which we loved).

Spa/Gym

The spa and gym are on the top (5th) floor, and the infinity pool stands in front of massive sloped windows with beautiful views. The pool is quite small and feels crowded with more than a couple of people in it, but the spa was mostly empty during our stay.

Tasty complimentary drinks (different types of iced teas each day), fruits and snacks were available by the pool.

The facilities are excellent, including a sauna and steam room, and a gym complete with plenty of machines and a Concept2 rower which certainly helps sweat out the wine a bit.

We also got a couple of treatments which came with some sticker shock given the market, but were well worth it.

Overall

A stellar wintertime stay in one of the most beautiful buildings in Budapest. This hotel deserves all of the praise that it gets. Despite being the (probably) most expensive hotel, bar and spa in the city, it’s an excellent value, especially compared to FS properties in the rest of the world.

Preamble ; Trip preparations

Thought I had better start this & continue in phases as I am jet lagging but have to give credit to some including DavidO , LM225 , quite a few other FTers who have either posted or PMed . Last but not least , scented , who truly helped make this stay the most memorable part of lodgings on this 3 weeks trip .

Was finalising / making reservations for Budapest & Vienna in the throes of AMAN September cc authorisation ( eventually waived during trip ) fiasco and scented really helped smooth things for FS which I did not fully realise until we arrived !

We were on the Viking Danube cruise which had us stay at where we would not have both in Bucharest & Budapest ( both hotels were changed , till up to just before sail date ) so was getting increasingly concerned ..

Arrival

We were thankful to leave the first Budapest hotel with her ongoing renovations in the complimentary Viking MPV for the short ride to FS . Warmly welcomed at our early arrival by the Director of Guest Experience , Andrea Z , and other staff and shown the activities area and spa where we had an appointment after lunch .

Our corner suite was not ready but we were provided a resting room - another guest room - in the mean time where I think we did our check in .. or perhaps I was too busy talking with Peter B , the chief concierge , that I cannot recall now .

For a start , to complement LM225 ‘ photos , here are 2 night views from our suite

In the day

Room

We were upgraded to a corner river view suite . After rather cramped quarters , yes we were in a suite on the river but it is river long ship & not ocean , we were extremely appreciative of the luxurious space and other surprises scented prepared for us .

Entry , bathroom on the left & closet to the right

Lovely delicious welcome treats from FTer friend !

Beautiful crafted gingerbread cookies & Unicum by Zwack ( have any of you tried it ? ) from the GM 

Looking up at night

And in the day , like the intricate craftsmanship throughout this former palace 

There did not seem to be a master switch so it took a bit of walking arto switch on or off the lights .

Bathroom

The bathroom was a decent size but only one vanity ! Also the shower could have been larger considering the space available . But with ancient buildings one just has to respect the various constraints ..

Pleased to say they now have Omorovicsa especially formulated for FS :) instead of L’ Occitane . Some rooms have ACQUA Di PARMA

Dining

The elegant Lobby Lounge where the Herend afternoon tea is served .

We were rather disappointed that we did not have time for their renowned afternoon tea served on Herend porcelain in the Lobby Lounge .

Mouthwatering welcome to KOLLÁZS

However , we managed to dine in their only restaurant KOLLÁZS – BRASSERIE & BAR where we had our breakfasts which were definitely not good if anyone was doing a fast for Lent . The interesting buffet breakfast spread had a wide range of breads , some Hungarian specialties too besides the usual ‘ fare ‘ all rather eye catchingly presented , 

( No photos as stipulated )

After a rather mediocre breakfast pre arrival , a delicious pork schnitzel and also a very reasonable set lunch was thoroughly enjoyed . 

Gym , indoor pool and Spa

The Spa & activity area was on the 5 th / 6 th floors with access from the spa reception .

Rather small relaxation area by the swimming pool .

The swimming pool as it was at times .. with treatment rooms just off out of sight in the photo

The gym with portholes 

We had different spa massages / treatments including the Hungarian mud therapy for myself . While they were alright , it was no comparison to ones at many AMANs , MOHK and others we have been to like at Chiva Som .

The treatment room we were in was not sound proof and should not have been by the pool ! We could hear screaming children who were playing by the pool during our more than 2 hours session .

Nevertheless , we were pleased to have this relaxing time after being on the go for 2 weeks .

Public areas

The public areas on the ground level are gorgeously grand . However , these photos do not put the area in the best light so one should go in person to appreciate .

Looking towards the reception from the entrance 

Looking towards the entrance

The wing to the right from the reception leads to a function room

The opposite side is the Lobby Lounge 

Towards the elevators / lifts

Looking out at night with the Chain Bridge lit in the background 

Lobby from the concierge area

Note the Preciosa chandelier 

Concierge and Service

Second to none !

Communications with the concierge team began more than a month before arrival & they were prompt , even when I was not ..

They provided much & beyond which I requested and were intuitive . As I had mentioned it was our first time to Budapest / Hungary , they anticipated what I should had asked for but did not . Very patient too I might add .

The list of suggested activities was appreciated and extensive , rather mind boggling as I did not expect to have so much to explore ( Now many left to done on the next visit ) .

One of the first to reach out was Zoltan K . Peter B was very happy to assist probably relieved to have a break until our next stay ;)

He secured last minute requests like dinners at Baraka & the only restaurant in Hungary with a Michelin star - Onyx !

Concierge area during a rare quiet period . Bar beyond and another function room .

All the areas or departments we enjoyed or liaised with were efficient & warm .

Housekeeping team who brought extra bottles of water , ice , clothes hangers , towels , etc , bell team helping with extra luggage racks , closing luggage , possibly other various odd requests , Spa - Virginia , Nora  , back of house , front of house including Andrea Z , the team at Kollazs especially Zsolt B , ..

Odds & ends ..

As I mentioned , we were provided a resting room when we arrived early 

it faced the interior overlooking the glass dome

Had a console table facing the toilet unlike in the suite

Another honeymoon suite 

What a lovely sight & day for a marathon :)

View from a corridor of the glass dome and bevelled frosted windows . Similar view also from the resting room .

Walking along the corridors was quite pleasant with the natural light filtering in and being able to peek at the glass ceiling of the lobby too .

Other perspectives :

Beautiful facade .

Looking at our corner suite

Some cars parked outside 

Some other cars of regular local guests  ..

Pleased that the free wifi worked well .

Departure :

As we decided to visit Vienna , going by road made sense rather than flying . 

We found out that FS has outsourced this service to a company who have dedicated a fleet of vehicles solely for their use !

The chauffeur and bell team did a magnificent job of fitting all our luggage into the BMW 7 L . Competent driving too , we were pleased to have him drive us for the almost 3 hours ride with a detour to Pann.

Location

Could not be better for us !

Walking distance to many indulgences whether edible or otherwise .

Those not within strolling distance were at least in view :) .. But for those marathoners , they would not have been an issue to reach .

What with the park in front , the Chain Bridge and Danube just beyond .

Overall

An all too brief but wonderful stay in one the most impressive historic hotel buildings I have stayed in ( Raffles is so much younger ) and what a view ! 

Thrilled that we extended our Budapest visit just to stay here .

Comfortable rooms / suites , decent AC , excellent warm service and considering the likely building restrictions , architecturally well restored . Hardware and software were in sync with her history as Gresham Palace .

We look forward to returning for a longer stay , perhaps after improvements are made to the spa area , and in another season ? Perhaps when the works on the Opera House , nearby Vörösmarty Square and surroundings are completed & when the CHRISTmas Markets are on :)