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Old Mar 12, 2018, 5:53 pm
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Ecuador -- luxury venues and experiences

Gathering information for a luxury (hopefully) trip to Ecuador. Thinking about a stay at Mashipi Lodge in the jungle (primarily for the birding). https://www.mashpilodge.com/

Interested in other luxe countryside / jungle venues; and where to stay in Quito. Bonus points for garden / countryside excursions.
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Old Mar 13, 2018, 11:24 am
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Among ecolodges in Ecuador, it appears that Mashpi Lodge and Napo Wildlife Center are among the two top luxury (and overall) choices. They're different in that Mashpi is situated in a cloud forest environment, whereas Napo is deep in the Ecuadorian Amazon (Yasuni National Park.)

Mashpi is easily accessible via road transfer from Quito. Getting to Napo requires a 1 hour flight to Coca, followed by a 2 hour motorized boat ride on the Napo River, followed by a 2 hour dugout canoe ride. So it's far more remote.

Mashpi has more of the traditional luxury hotel amenities, and helps shield guests from the elements (if that's important to you), such as wall & glass-enclosed rooms, etc., and looks to be more refined overall.

We're headed to Napo this November - it's in no way luxury by "luxury hotel" standards, but the comfort and amenities it dishes up in such a remote place, combined with the experiences on offer more than makes up for it. We booked one of the suite rooms at the property.

For Quito, there are not too many choices. The default option is Casa Gangotena; it's smack dab in the city center, facing the main square (Plaza San Francisco) and it's beautiful. The rooms, however, are not very large, and only a handful face the Square. The restaurant is very good. It's also the most expensive option in Ecuador. Prior to our Galapagos trip back in 2012, we stayed at the JW Marriott - it's nowhere near any place interesting, and the hotel is showing decent signs of wear and tear. Strictly an overnight option, IMO.
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Old Mar 13, 2018, 12:01 pm
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Great info, thanks KI-NRT.
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Old Mar 13, 2018, 12:55 pm
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Originally Posted by KI-NRT
Prior to our Galapagos trip back in 2012, we stayed at the JW Marriott - it's nowhere near any place interesting, and the hotel is showing decent signs of wear and tear. Strictly an overnight option, IMO.
We stayed at the JW Marriott last year for three nights prior to our Galapagos cruise. I agree in large part with this assessment. We had a suite and had access to the lounge. It was a comfortable but not luxurious stay. Staff was attentive. We booked a driver from the hotel for excursions. It worked well for us. We stopped in Guayaquil after our cruise. It's only advantage was that it was at sea level. Otherwise we found it unremarkable and could have skipped it altogether if flight timings had permitted. There we had a massive suite and big terrace at the Hilton along with lounge access. When I can't have luxury, my default is space. In fact, I'll take space over a tight luxury room - but that's a different discussion.
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Old Mar 16, 2018, 8:00 pm
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We stayed at both Mashpi Lodge and Casa Gangotena on our Ecuador trip in 2013 - both were outstanding properties. Excellent guides and excursions at Mashpi - the architecture, rooms, and food all terrific as well. About a 3+ hour trip by road - the last hour was on a pothole-rutted track inside the nature preserve. Tough going if you get carsick. Can't beat the Casa G on the main square - stunning views if you get a room facing the square.
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Old Mar 18, 2018, 2:17 am
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I know most people here do not consider a cruise but there are two luxury-ish options in the Amazon part of Ecuador - two boats, the Manatee and the Anakonda [sic], look spectacular and you get to move around a lot which is a distinct advantage over the lodge.



I'm now seriously planning a trip here. My two previous river cruises, on the Mekong and the Irrawaddy, were wonderful. There is nothing better than sitting on a wicker chair on the top deck, G&T in hand, and watching the river slip past.

Last edited by Pausanias; Mar 18, 2018 at 8:50 am
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 12:26 am
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
I know most people here do not consider a cruise but there are two luxury-ish options in the Amazon part of Ecuador - two boats, the Manatee and the Anakonda [sic], look spectacular and you get to move around a lot which is a distinct advantage over the lodge.
I'm now seriously planning a trip here. My two previous river cruises, on the Mekong and the Irrawaddy, were wonderful. There is nothing better than sitting on a wicker chair on the top deck, G&T in hand, and watching the river slip past.
The disadvantage I see of cruises... the excursions are not private, and on the vast majority of cruises, you cannot even pay for the privilege. We were on Aqua Expeditions' Aria boat with only 3 other couples (it was their 2nd week of operating the new boat) - and even then, we wished the outings were all private.
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 12:58 am
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KI-NRT - Private excursions are not something that bother me at all. And private guides often/usually get in the way. We once did a private thing across Argentina and thought afterwards we should have gone with a small group as we did recently in Kazakhstan and also on all our cruises. The only private excursions I can remember which worked well for us were at Amansara. I can see why a major celeb might wish to 'be alone' to avoid those selfie things but regular folk like everyone on here shouldn't be so bashful in my view. Isn't travel all about seeing new things and meeting people? On a safari drive or any kind of cruise going out in the bush or meeting a dolphin or an anaconda in Ecuador is best shared with other people I think. Get yourself in a zodiac with half a dozen strangers and have a huge sperm whale float underneath you and see what I mean . . .
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 1:17 am
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
KI-NRT - Private excursions are not something that bother me at all. And private guides often/usually get in the way. We once did a private thing across Argentina and thought afterwards we should have gone with a small group as we did recently in Kazakhstan and also on all our cruises. The only private excursions I can remember which worked well for us were at Amansara. I can see why a major celeb might wish to 'be alone' to avoid those selfie things but regular folk like everyone on here shouldn't be so bashful in my view. Isn't travel all about seeing new things and meeting people? On a safari drive or any kind of cruise going out in the bush or meeting a dolphin or an anaconda in Ecuador is best shared with other people I think. Get yourself in a zodiac with half a dozen strangers and have a huge sperm whale float underneath you and see what I mean . . .
I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree. When I'm on an outing, I want to immerse myself in the way I want, where I want, when I want to. We are not allergic to other people; but people don't behave the same, have different interests and tastes and have varying degrees of tolerance. For example, one time we were on a glacier hike, and someone wanted to turn back because they had trouble breathing (we were at 4000 meters), so we had to return to camp. Another time, while in the Amazon we were on a small skiff when a Pink River Dolphin appeared on the left side of the skiff. Well, we were sitting on the right side, and nobody had the sense to give the folks on the other side a chance to see this rare creature, let alone offer an "opening" to get some photographs. It was sort of moot, anyway, because nobody got more than a fleeting glimpse of the dolphin... and we didn't even get that. Scenario 3: we were in a clay lick hide waiting for Parakeets, Parrots and Macaws to appear. The children in our group didn't have the patience to wait, nor were the quiet enough for the birds to approach the clay lick in any case. So the entire outing that afternoon was a bust.

Everyone has their own story - when out and about, I like to have my own. Back on the boat/camp/lodge, I'm more than happy to chat it up with other guests. But that's the extent of it.
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Last edited by KI-NRT; Mar 20, 2018 at 5:02 pm
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 1:59 am
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Yep I see where you are coming from KI-NRT. I agree with the fundamental issue of your argument - can I get the photo I want?
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 3:30 am
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
Yep I see where you are coming from KI-NRT. I agree with the fundamental issue of your argument - can I get the photo I want?
You're awesome at making assumptions and passing judgment on others on this forum. I love you for that

While biking on our own in Bagan, we played Football ("Soccer" in the U.S.) with kids at a local school and were later invited into a local villager's home, where we were treated to a traditional Burmese meal. Completely unscripted and authentic.

We travel far and wide to have a LOCAL experience. We want an authentic experience of the local people/culture/wildlife/scenery/environment, and prioritize that over mingling with other guests. For that, we find that privately guided (or completely unguided) excursions tend to work better for us. That's just our priority; YMMV.
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Old Mar 20, 2018, 3:52 am
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Actually KI-NRT I agreed with most of what you said. I too have had experiences like that and also experiences when I was part of a small group that frustrated me a lot. I think particularly of the time when I visited Palmyra in Syria and wanted perfect shots of the colonnades. For two days the weather was poor (grey and dusty) and then it cleared and we had perfect skies and light. But by that time our group had voted to leave to see some church near Damascus and I never got the shots I wanted of Palmyra. Never will now, of course. If we were on our own there would not have been an issue.

I hope I don't often make assumptions or pass judgment on others here. I am/was a professional writer/journalist paid to express opinions and create debate and that background is hard to shake off. Sorry to anyone who feels/has felt offended.

I might add, by the way, that wildlife viewing is often at its best from the deck of a small ship. And there is hardly ever a crowding issue.

Last edited by Pausanias; Mar 21, 2018 at 8:06 am
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Old Apr 16, 2018, 12:48 pm
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Does anyone have a Travel Agent (preferably Virtuoso) who specializes in Ecuador travel?
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Old Apr 16, 2018, 11:23 pm
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I'm currently finalising my trip to Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. Ordinarily I never use travel agents except for complex trips involving regional flights, small planes, remote lodges etc. In the UK I would recommend a specialist agency like https://www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk. They have done several trips for me in the past and have a deep knowledge of the entire continent. They are just as ready booking budget lodgings as well as luxury properties. These people tend not to book people into major chain hotels like the Marriott in Quito. I'm sure there would be an equivalent in the US or maybe an outfit like Abercrombie & Kent. For the Galapagos portion of my trip I'm dealing directly with Silversea.
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Last edited by Pausanias; Apr 17, 2018 at 1:01 am
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Old Jan 11, 2019, 12:55 am
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Originally Posted by KI-NRT
We're headed to Napo this November - it's in no way luxury by "luxury hotel" standards, but the comfort and amenities it dishes up in such a remote place, combined with the experiences on offer more than makes up for it. We booked one of the suite rooms at the property.
Did you do this trip and do you have any comments about your Coca/Napo river experience? I'm off to a nearby lodge, Sacha, next week, followed by Mashpi, then Galapagos Islands - Macmyday's least fave place in the world.
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