I’m not sure I could define the difference between kitsch and homage, but the Oberoi group certainly can, as they have assiduously avoided the pastiche of Mughal architecture that seems to pervade so many other hotels, yet everywhere you look at the Oberoi Amarvilas, you see tribute paid to the rich architectural heritage of the surroundings—and that to me was even more remarkable than the much vaunted views of the Taj from the public areas and guest rooms’ balconies.  So upon returning from touring Agra Fort, you recognize upon crossing the fountain-checkered entrance court that the design is a reflection of one of the courtyards you saw at the Fort, but thanks to Oberoi, you get to see what it would have looked like when operational, with water burbling from each marble column, whereas at Agra Fort you were looking at non-functioning remains. Or when you return from touring the astounding Fatehpur Sikri, you recognize that the lighting surrounding the sunken swimming pool is an echo of the candle-in-niche theme of that abandoned royal palace.

Room

Despite how tempted we were by Ericka’s review of one of the top suites, we decided to save our splurge for suites at the other resorts, and booked the entry-level rooms here. Our Virtuoso booking enabled a one-category upgrade to rooms with balconies facing the Taj. As in the public areas, the quality of detail even in these fairly standard rectangular rooms made them a real pleasure: inlaid wood furnishings, splashes of turquoise silk, etc. The bathrooms would benefit from upgrading the showerheads and fixtures—the only aspect of the hotel that didn’t feel absolutely pristine and perfect.

Fitness Center and Spa

There’s a very decent fitness center and spa, but we were too tired, so early in our trip, to use either of them.  

Dining

For breakfast, included in our rate via Virtuouso, there's a very large buffet, plus a la carte menu items. We ordered lunch poolside each day (one lunch complimentary through Virtuoso), and split our dinners between the two restaurants, one Continental (the same room as breakfast), and the other Indian, open only for dinner. The Indian restaurant was disappointing, but otherwise the quality of the food here was very high.

Overall

Almost everyone only spends one night, but I’d really encourage two, so that you can take time to soak up the whole experience. At dusk, there is of course the view of the Taj from the balconies, but between you and the Taj, the call to prayer echoes, and pigeon-trainers stand on their rooftops like maestros waving sticks to direct the synchronized flying of their flocks—a really amazing activity that I’ve never seen anywhere else and is apparently a centuries-old hobby/sport that only persists now in a few areas. Following arrival on the early morning express train, you’ll reach the hotel by 9:30 am. Since you’ll have missed the chance to see the Taj before it’s mobbed, you might want to spend the morning at another site, perhaps the Fort or the Mughal tomb of Itamad-ud-Daulah. Afternoon poolside is a wonderful experience—so exquisite are the surroundings, and the pool service so proficient.  You’ll want to see the Taj at sunrise, taking advantage of the hotel’s proximity to the entrance and the golf carts that whisk you there. Depending on your appetite for more Mughal remains (and I have to say, I was completely smitten by them—I couldn’t get enough) you can divide the day between more pool time and a trip out to Fatehpur Sikri (my favorite of all the sights), and then spend a second night at the Amarvilas, or leave for your next destination if the Taj was really all you wanted to do in Agra.  One final note about Agra: everywhere else we went in India after Agra was a step up in cleanliness – other than the Mughal sights, Agra is an absolute pit, corroding before your very eyes. So brace yourself for that—you’ll find yourself grateful for the chance to re-enter the Amarvilas each time you leave.