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Old Mar 3, 2013, 6:54 pm
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Amantaka trip report

I first learnt about Luang Prabang 3 years ago when I was reading the Alila hotel brochures in my hotel room in Alila Ubud (those were the days before I even knew Aman exists!). It looked like a small charming Buddhist town on papar and the property looked gorgeously restored from a former prison. Back then, it was still managed by Alila. Unfortunately our trip to Laos kept getting postponed due to work and other reasons. And meanwhile Alila has recentred their management focus back to Indonesia, passing over property in Maldives to Park Hyatt and one in Luang Prabang to 3 Nagas. We, on the other hand, have been converted into Amanjunkies and find it difficult to return to a non-Aman hotel Amantaka was the perfect choice for our short intra-Asia hop out of fanatically busy HKG and back to the peaceful embrace of Aman. We were immediately charmed by its calming atmosphere, beatifully restored ground, kind Laotian staff and warm welcoming management, so much so that we decided to extend our 3 night stay for another 2 nights. Another top notch Aman property!

Arrival
Transiting in Bangkok or Hanoi is usually needed as LP’s airport only has a short runway (This is going to change soon though with the new airport being built next door). We flew in from Bangkok on a turboprop and landing was quite fun involving close proximity to the Mekong mountain ranges. Unlike the Indonesian Aman, no VIP visa service here. The queue to visa-on-arrival can get rather long. It is a good idea to sit at the back rows if flying in on a turboprop as those passengers deplane first. Or get a pre-arrival visa done through the local Laos embassy which was what we did. Aman staff in white uniform whisked us to the hotel on a 15 - 20 minutes drive, with cold towels and water of course. We noticed that people are not driving crazily fast or honking manically like most other South East Asia countries... and our guide told us the true meaning of Laos PDR - People Don't Rush

Location
Luang Prabang is a small town perched on a penisula at the confluence of Mekong and Nam Khan river. Declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1995, it is a living Buddhist town with more than 30 temples, where saffron-robed monks are common sights. Few larger temples and the previous royal palace line the main street, while restaurants and shops catered for tourists are dotted alongside. Young European backpackers are sipping their Beer Laos on street cafes with their huge rucksacks. It felt like going back to Siem Reap before the massive tourist construction work began 5 to 10 years ago.

Amantaka is located on one of the main roads going into town. A 5 minute walk from where all the buzz is happening, or a easy bike ride down to the river. Similar to Amansara, it is not as isolated as other Aman resorts in Indonesia or Thailand. But once we entered the front lawn, the street traffic and noise seemed to gradually dissipate. And we’re back in our little piece of Oasis...

View of Amantaka from adjacent hilltop



Grounds
Restored from an old French colonial hospital, the resort’s architecture and preservation work are stunning. Its footprint may not be as big as the Indonesian Amans though it has created an expansive and calming ambience through clever use of the resort’s public space. The original hospital buildings were well preserved and the central lawn was transformed into a beautiful turquoise tiled swimming pool. The property is cleverly laid out with a well manicured verdant front lawn buffering the street noise. The lobby, restaurant and library open up to the swimming pool and the 25 suites line the central lawn located further back. Old frangipani and teak trees offer welcoming shade against the harsh sun. The decor is typically Aman - minimalistic yet elegant. Olive green painted louvered doors, dark ochre colored roofs, lovely floral displays of white chrysanthemum and local flowers and B&W prints of local monks (by a german photographer Hans Georg Berger, more on him later) blend together very well with the revived French colonial architectural style to provide a soothing environment.

Entrance







Front lawn



Corridor



Lobby



Room
We were very lucky to receive a massive upgrade into an Amantaka suite (#1), thanks to GM Gary I believe it was the same suite that <B>Groombridge</B> has stayed in previously as the exterior looked identical. These are the only two standalone suites in the resort which used to be admin office in the hospital. The interior space is expansive with phenomenally high ceiling, completed with a private pool and verandah at the back with two daybeds. The suite inherits the soothing design throughout the resort and is adorned with more of Han’s lovely prints of Laotian monks. The living area is separated from the bedroom, functioning a bit like an antechamber. The beautifully crafted 4-poster king-sized bed is the centrepiece of bedroom, which is flanked by two alcoves - one side houses an island bathtub whilst the other side a mini-office with desk and bookshelf. Unfortunately we found the bedroom a bit too dark during the day as the windows are shaded by outdoor plants for privacy reasons. The shower room with two rainforest shower-heads is probably the largest we have ever seen. The outdoor verandah at the back is situated by a side street. Street noise somtimes crept through but that didn’t stop us from enjoying our nap on the daybed :P The private pool was quite shaded though temperature was perfect for a mid-day dip when the sun was scorching hot. Not sure if it was heated though as it felt pretty chilly to me in the early morning and evening. Mosquito coils and repellant are necessities as we found out the itchy way on the first night!

Suite exterior



Living area



Bedroom



Wonderful tub



Mini office



Shower room



Outdoor verandah



Outdoor daybed



Private pool



Small courtyard


Last edited by halibahs; Mar 3, 2013 at 7:10 pm
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Old Mar 3, 2013, 7:05 pm
  #2  
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Facilities
The main swimming pool was alluring though slightly too public for our taste. Luang Prabang is quite cool in the morning and evening so a heated pool may be a better idea. The gym building housed on one side of the swimming pool is extremely well equipped with free weights and cardio machines. Cold water and towel are never afar. Complimentary daily yoga class is offered in a dedicated room with a wonderful resident teacher returning from the US. I had near-to-none experience before and she was great in guiding me into the moves. Neither of us is crazy about massages so we gave the spa a miss. But we heard from other guests the sauna and hydropool were great.
The library is stocked with a nice collection of books on Buddhism and Laotian culture, as well as English classics alongside modern fictions. Two computers are available for dealing with more earthly business. Afternoon tea is also served daily with an amazing assortment of lovely cakes and munchies, which resulted in our prolonged lounging there :P

Library at day and night





Dining
With the compulsory board charge, we basically had almost all our meals in Amantaka. The restaurant is led by a very capable american Chef Rob who was previously posted in Amanruya and Amankora Punakha. Both Laotian dishes and western fares were executed superbly. Laotian food takes influence from neighbouring country such as Thai, Cambodia and Vietnam. The fragrant sticky rice is the staple here. A variant of the Thai green papaya salad is common for a quick snack so is the bowl of rice noodle (Fer in Laos, Pho in Vietnamese). Flavour is a bit more delicate with generous servings of herbs and garnishes. Compared to the food served in town, we found the Laotian dishes in Amantaka more authentic and less MSG-spiked. The river fish we tasted were super fresh and not at all muddy-flavoured. Western dishes were slightly Creole influenced, e.g. fishcake with cajun sauce, prawn croquette etc, and done pretty well. The only bad meal I had was a burger for lunch, where the patty felt dry and tasteless...

The team of waiters is led by a very friendly and hands-on F&B manager Vuko, who was transferred from Sveti Stefan for a few months during the winter. His selection of the house wine list was excellent with a wide range of choices from a light fruity Rose to full bodied French red. We requested for a private dinner to be set up one evening as a surprise for my partner and were brought to this beautiful villa about 5 minutes drive away from the property. Vuko and his team has set the dinner table by the pool beautifully with candles and paper lanterns. The dishes were driven in from the resort’s kitchen course after course, served by our private waiter. I was then told the villa is Mr. Zecha’s very own.... surprise surpise We had an absolutely wonderful time there and the setting may not be as remote as the Khmer house in Amansara or the beach down at Amankila but having dinner down by AZ’s private pool was surely an experience for us!

Main dining area



Poolside tables



Gorgeous french toast



Activities

Unlike Siem Reap, Luang Prabang does not boast a must-see list to kick off. Instead its charm lies in the little alleyways where young novice monks rush out after school, shy yet friendly vendors down by the market and the tiny fishing boats sailing slowly along the Mekong. It is a small living Buddhist town where temples are central to their daily lives. The morning alms offering (“Tak Bat” in Laos) has been a long tradition where local people offer food and money to local monks early before breakfast. Hundreds of monks from different temples shuffling slowly down the main street at 6am was quite a spectacular sight. Unfortunately the supposedly meditative walk has been overtaken by tourist hoards and turned into a “monk fashion show”. Camera flashes were blasting and crowds were blocking the monk’s path. We managed to see this on our last day and were very grateful that Aman has managed to show us the peaceful side of LP during our outings. Aman also hosts its own alms offering in front of the property which is a much quieter and dignified experience. Even with the 5am wake up call, we felt it’s worth doing.

Morning alms, "Tat Bak"



A nice selection of activities are on offer, included in the compulsory board charge. The city tour was a good way to see some major temples and get oriented to the town. We also took an excursion to a nearby waterfall which was quite picturesque, as well as a tour to a hill tribe village. The waterfall was slightly overrun by backpackers playing tarzan and swimming. But the hill tribe village is very authentic and we seemed to be the only tourists there. Local women were getting on with their embroidery work, kids were chasing down little chicks. Nobody tried to push us to buy anything and the kids had a great time having their pictures taken. A great find by Gary ^ We also paid a visit to the black bear sanctuary near the waterfall, and with a small donation, we were shown the “backstage tour” where we are allowed to hide food in their enclosure as well as visit the bear clinic. Our guides were contracted by Aman, both are very friendly guys.

Laotian temple



Waterfall



Very cute black bears



Kids at the village



Hill tribe lady



Aman does picnic right!




The boat trip down on Mekong River, however, was the definite highlight of our trip. The Aman boat was very nicely furbished and comfortable for lounging. Instead of going upstream to the Cave and whiskey village, Gary advised us to go downstream to Hans Berger residence for a late lunch. Since my partner is a photographer, Gary was kind enough to arrange with Hans so that he will be able to meet us there. Hans Berger is a german photographer who has been working closely with the monks in Luang Prabang for nearly 20 years, documenting their ceremonies and daily lives. Some of his work on display in the property are truly wonderful. Few years ago, a very senior abbot has entrusted him with thousands of photographs which he hid in cupboards for years of communist reign. The photos are of local monks and most were taken by themselves. Hans has archived these meticulously. Some of the photos were exhibited in a special room in Amantaka and it was wonderful for these pictures to see daylight again after surviving years of turmoil. His lovely house was perched right by a bent on the Mekong and we had lunch at the outdoor Bale. Hans is an absolute gentleman and we had a very inspiring chat. The stretch of river was idyllic and we had a lovely sunset on our way back. But we felt that being able to meet Hans has topped the experience.

The Aman boat







Lunch Bale at Hans' residence





Mekong sunset


Last edited by halibahs; Mar 4, 2013 at 11:45 pm
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Old Mar 3, 2013, 7:07 pm
  #3  
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Service
Top marks for the management led by GM Gary, assistant manager Berenice and F&B manager Vuko. All of them were fantastic and always checking on us to make sure things are going well. Vuko even jumped on a bike to try and get some batteries for us in town ^ Most of the Laotian staff we met were sweet and attentive, except one waiter who did not seem too thrilled to be there. Admittedly we stayed after the CNY peak and occupancy rate was around 30-40%, though the level of service was comparable to that of Amansara and other Asian Amans. We were having dinner by the pool one evening and it started drizzling. Most couples moved into the main dining room whilst we stayed (my partner is British, that probably explains it ). Without us asking, Vuko and the waiters set up a huge umbrella for us right by the table And of course they remembered how we like our coffee and eggs done Housekeeping was also wonderful, great example of Aman elves at work!

Overall impression
Another wonderful Aman property with fantastic service and food. Would be a great complement to stay for a few nights after the “action-packed” Amansara to wind down and take in the small Buddhist town’s charm. Visit sooner though. With the new airport and railway completing, hoards of mainland chinese tourists are about to descend and I had a feeling this small town may not take it too well....

Amantaka's own tuk tuk

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Old Mar 3, 2013, 8:25 pm
  #4  
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even more amazing pics than your first amanreport, especially aerial!
laos shots feel like reading a (top) magazine - fantastic work, with leica?
incredibly detailed!

Originally Posted by halibahs
private dinner to be set up one evening as a surprise for my partner and were brought to this beautiful villa about 5 minutes drive...I was then told the villa is Mr. Zecha’s very own

Aman also hosts its own alms offering in front of the property which is a much quieter and dignified experience

hill tribe village is very authentic and we seemed to be the only tourists there

black bear sanctuary...“backstage tour” where we are allowed to hide food in their enclosure as well as visit the bear clinic

downstream to Hans Berger residence for a late lunch. Since my partner is a photographer, Gary was kind enough to arrange with Hans so that he will be able to meet us there...Few years ago, a very senior abbot has entrusted him with thousands of photographs which he hid in cupboards for years of communist reign. The photos are of local monks and most were taken by themselves. Hans has archived these meticulously. Some of the photos were exhibited in a special room in Amantaka
wow.

Originally Posted by halibahs
footprint may not be as big as the Indonesian Amans
although taka does have fewer rooms (except wana)

Originally Posted by halibahs
The outdoor verandah at the back is situated by a side street
amantaka suite courtyard wall is not exterior wall of resort is it?
public neighbors can see in? (2nd story windows seen in your pic)
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Old Mar 3, 2013, 9:15 pm
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Thanks a lot for your compliments, Kage!
Yes the pictures were taken with my Leica M8, the Aman elves did all the styling though

Unfortunately, in a similar layout to Amansara, most room's courtyard and private pool are very close to the outer boundary of the property. They are on a slightly lower level compared to the suites and there's a further exterior wall between the property and the streets. Though I'm fairly certain people can see into part of the suite (probably not the pool chairs though) if they peek out from the second floor windows. That is another reason we didn't really avail ourselves to the private pool that much. That said, the building opposite our street has all their 2nd floor windows boarded up though and we felt quite comfortable using the daybeds which is situated in a tiled-roof bale.

An extra pic to show the back entrance of the suite, in relation to the private pool

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Old Mar 3, 2013, 9:28 pm
  #6  
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[QUOTE=halibahs;20354170]Service


Overall impression
Another wonderful Aman property with fantastic service and food. Would be a great complement to stay for a few nights after the “action-packed” Amansara to wind down and take in the small Buddhist town’s charm. Visit sooner though. With the new airport and railway completing, hoards of mainland chinese tourists are about to descend and I had a feeling this small town may not take it too well....

^
Yes, great team under Gary.
Am planning to return as soon as the new runway is ready .. Hopefully before the hoards descend!
When is the latest target completion?
Will have to visit the bear sanctuary then.
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Old Mar 3, 2013, 9:37 pm
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[QUOTE=FlyerEC;20354753]
Originally Posted by halibahs
Service


Overall impression
Another wonderful Aman property with fantastic service and food. Would be a great complement to stay for a few nights after the “action-packed” Amansara to wind down and take in the small Buddhist town’s charm. Visit sooner though. With the new airport and railway completing, hoards of mainland chinese tourists are about to descend and I had a feeling this small town may not take it too well....

^
Yes, great team under Gary.
Am planning to return as soon as the new runway is ready .. Hopefully before the hoards descend!
When is the latest target completion?
Will have to visit the bear sanctuary then.
We saw the brand new terminal building with airbridges (looked fairly operational from the outside) when we flew in and our guide said it should open in about 3 months time. But then again, they said it was going to open back in late 2012....

If you don't mind, may I know where you are based FlyerEC? I doubt CX/KA will have direct flight to LPQ any time soon, though SQ/silk air may open a new route. Laos airline might do it as well with their new airbus fleet...
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 1:02 am
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An excellent report and pictures - we were there two years ago and loved it, apart from the freezing swimming pool. Some people seem to dislike the surrounding noise - traffic, genberal hubub and school kids chanting national songs etc - but I thought it connected the hotel to the town.
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 5:13 am
  #9  
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<3 the kids in the village. Sooooooo cute.
There's something about children in Asian villages. They start lining up for pictures.....even when you don't have your camera out. It can be a little awkward because they'll stay there until you take the shot. LOL. Gotta love the positive attitude about tourists.
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 7:28 am
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An absolutely fabulous trip report. many thanks. One of the er best I have read. Wonderfully written and terrific photos. It made me want to visit and revealed the reasons why one should.
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 9:19 am
  #11  
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Thanks Pausanias and blueline7 for your kind words!

Actually we didn't mind the "noise" so much and we found the sound insulation in the suite is perfect. Didn't hear a single honk during our stay. People were having a funeral next door so there was a monotonous drumming sound which went on til midnight, though we found the monotonic drumming quite conducive to sleeping

Ericka: The kids were really great and couldn't stop laughing at their own pictures when we showed them...very positive energy indeed
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 9:50 am
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Great report - made me want to go back, as I stayed in that suite, too. It's quieter than its sister suite opposite, but all the suites are, in some, way, close to the road. Very quiet, surprisingly. Pity you don't do massages as the Spa at Amantaka is really special. How about a facial?
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 10:11 am
  #13  
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Thanks vuittons!
My partner is really funny about people touching him, so massages/facials are a big no-no... I feel bad leaving him alone to have a spa pamper myself and ended up not going most of the time. I must try it next time

I had a short chat with the spa manager (Laotian/Thai?). She helped with the opening at the Aman Spa in London and seemed very enthusiastic about their treatments at Amantaka. Funny she is married to a Brit and when I mentioned my partner's quirk, she concluded it must be an English thing since her husband is the same
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 11:45 am
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Originally Posted by halibahs
Thanks vuittons!
My partner is really funny about people touching him, so massages/facials are a big no-no... I feel bad leaving him alone to have a spa pamper myself and ended up not going most of the time. I must try it next time

I had a short chat with the spa manager (Laotian/Thai?). She helped with the opening at the Aman Spa in London and seemed very enthusiastic about their treatments at Amantaka. Funny she is married to a Brit and when I mentioned my partner's quirk, she concluded it must be an English thing since her husband is the same
What a pity you missed their facials - they are superb. I know the spa manager - she's Thai and is very good. I remember her at the Aman Spa at the Connaught. Must try to persuade your husband one day. Great men's facials, too.
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Old Mar 4, 2013, 6:51 pm
  #15  
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halibahs, your trip reports are quickly becoming invaluable. Where are you going next? This is tremendous -- both the images and the prose. Thank you! I'm glad you had such a good experience at Amantaka. Gary Tyson is one of the finest GMs I've ever met.
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