Groombridge

Four Seasons Florence
Il Salviatino
Castiglion del Bosco
Castello del Nero

I spent part of August and September in Tuscany, and had really terrific stays at each of these 4 hotels/resorts. Only the Ferragamo estate, Castiglion del Bosco, comes close enough to the perfect blend of design, service, food, and amenities that would lead me to put it on a list of truly world-class properties. It is a really wonderful place that I hope to visit again. A quick summary, then detailed reports and photos for each of these four nice places:

Four Seasons Florence:

High points: the hard product is unbeatable – superb rooms, bathrooms, public areas, and grounds. It’s an exceptional pleasure returning from a morning of sight-seeing to a garden-set pool within the historic center of Florence.

Low points: fussy and unsatisfying food. Service was proficient, but impersonal, so different from the warmth of FS Istanbul and FS Park Lane. And the beds are so hard (due to a fire regulation requirement for a historic structure in Florence).

Il Salviatino:

High points: the best service I’ve ever experienced in Italy, much more like an Aman in its warmth, spontaneity, personal touches, and generosity of spirit. Very good food – with the best breakfasts of the trip from a superb menu. Nice views of Florence.

Low points: Quirky rooms with significant design flaws. The pool and spa are 3-star afterthoughts, unsavory and unappealing.

Castiglion del Bosco:

High points: The village atmosphere of the resort. The spare-no-expense interior design of the accommodation. The lavender-edged infinity pool and glass-walled fitness pavilion, both with birds-eye views over Tuscany.

Low points: Underwhelming spa; the casual service is not especially proactive.

Castello del Nero:

High points: Wonderful spa with world-class therapists. Beautiful views over the Tuscan countryside. The top suites are frescoed, coffered-ceiling wonders.

Low points: Low-quality mattress.



So if you could combine Il Salviatino’s service and food with Castiglion del Bosco’s atmosphere, design and pool and Castello del Nero’s spa, I think you’d have the perfect Tuscan resort.

Overall, Castiglion del Bosco emerged as my favorite of these four, followed by Castello del Nero. Il Salviatino’s problems are the exact opposite of the Four Seasons’, so I’d put them in a tie for 3rd place.

Grand Hotel Villa Cora (Florence): the one that got away. I wanted to fit in a stay here, as well, but didn’t have enough vacation days to stay longer, so I’ll hope to stay here next time I go to Florence.

More details about each hotel/resort and photos in separate posts to follow.

Groombridge

I reserved one of the four Gallery Suites, and had specifically requested and received confirmation that I would receive one of the three on the piano nobile with frescoed ceilings and period features. Ours consisted of a spacious, high ceilinged bedroom with a seating area, desk, and chair/ottoman, and then a bathroom of the same dimensions as the bedroom, with a palatial bathtub in the center beneath the frescoed ceiling. Each Gallery Suite is different, and while I’ve seen pictures of one of them here on this site, I hadn’t seen pictures of the one we were in, so I’m posting a few below.





The ceiling of the bedroom:







In addition to replenishing a fruit basket daily, there were nightly dessert amenities delivered to the room, as well as bottles of water at turndown. (I only mention this since I was recently surprised by how negligible the turndown service is at Four Seasons Park Lane – no water, nothing but a cloth mat placed by the bed and the runner folded up and put away.)

The public spaces on the ground floor are magnificent – grand yet intimate, historic yet contemporary in comfort and coloration. Of all the features of this hotel, it’s the quality of the design of the public spaces that has most stayed with me – the covered courtyard, now converted into a bevy of seating areas filled with olive green and russet sofas and chairs and hardcover monographs on Renaissance artists.





There’s an intimate lounge in a frescoed antechamber, the “business center” in another. And the lounge/bar, also in a former courtyard now glassed over, is similarly breathtaking.



The two-story fitness center in a renovated historic building in the gardens is superb, as good as it gets. Similarly, the spa building is impeccably beautiful, meeting the high standard set by the interiors of the main building. We had three treatments there, collectively, and all were average, despite the high cost.

We spent our first afternoon in the grounds by the pool, an experience that was the first hint that the FS Florence, while beautiful, needs to work on developing some heart and soul. There was simply no service at the pool . . . and while that afternoon the pool was quite busy, on other days it was virtually empty, and on 6 different visits to the pool, no service ever materialized. Rather than providing umbrellas for each pool chair, a much more visually appealing – and historically apropos – solution is provided: each lounge chair is framed by a metal frame lined with cloth that can be lowered or raised as desired. The pool itself is concrete, painted a yellow-green, and while it’s easy to understand the motivation of not wanting a typical blue pool to clash with the surrounding greenery of the gardens, it’s also now easy to see why other hotels haven’t made the same choice, as the yellow-green color of the water evokes visual associations with algae and bracken. One wishes they’d invested in a pool tiled with slate or granite or mosaic tile instead of the cheap concrete. But this is a minor gripe, ultimately, as the joy of lounging by a pool after pounding the pavements of Florentine churches and museums is priceless.

But the lack of service at the pool was indeed symptomatic of the property’s overall ethos: I cannot remember a single encounter with any staff person in which I didn’t get the distinct sense that they were bracing themselves for the encounter, hoping it would end quickly or just go away. Curt professionalism was constant, whereas warmth, solicitousness, and helpfulness were constant only in their absence. We went out of our way to stop back by the concierge desk to tell them how much we enjoyed a particular gelateria, and even then we were treated as if we were taking their time away from something more important—and we weren’t even asking for anything. Despite many repeated encounters with the same staff, not once were our names used – which is something that the very best hotels have led me to expect and appreciate.

We ate breakfast there each morning and found the service to be somewhat brusque. There’s a limited menu from which eggs and other dishes could be ordered, but the primary option is a buffet which was of average quality for a luxury hotel. We dined in the formal restaurant one night, and were again plagued by service problems – waits of 45 minutes between courses, for example, and when the food did arrive, it was clear that it had been kept under a heat lamp for a considerable amount of time. The flavor combinations were eccentric and fussy, rather than truly appealing. It’s hard to make Italian classics truly unappealing, but somehow, they have done so. In addition, it seems that in a resort like this, where there is more than one on-site restaurant, it would be ideal to have one of the restaurants be adults only, as we were harried throughout our meal by the small children of other guests, whose parents were only too happy to be free of them, allowing them instead to bring their toys over to our table and play at our feet for a good 30 minutes or so. So between the long waits, other guests’ loud and obnoxious children, and the poor food quality, we finally gave up without ordering dessert.

The hotel offers a shuttle service to Florence’s center, but we rarely used it since it’s really not a bad walk at all. The hotel is within the bounds of the Renaissance city walls, just 5 minutes away from San Marco and the Accademia, and 1 minute away from the Protestant cemetery, which was right outside the city walls, and is where Elizabeth Barrett Browning, among others, is buried. (Not a must see, but worth 30 minutes if you’re interested in 19th century cemeteries or the expat community who lived in Florence then.)

It’s simply amazing what the Four Seasons has done in their renovation/restoration of this palazzo and gardens – making for one of the most remarkable blends of history and 21st century luxury I have ever seen. It would be among the best of the best if they could instill the same sort of care and craft within the hearts and minds of the staff – and improve the food.

Summary: My expectations were very high, and we were paying a lot of money for that Gallery Suite, so yes, I was disappointed overall. But what potential this place has – it is really impressive as a physical property.

Groombridge

When we drove up to the main door of Il Salviatino, our car was covered with dust from a week of driving in Tuscany. We mentioned how embarrassed we were about it and the response from the staff who greeted us was, “Oh, can we wash it for you?” And this was the first of many such gestures : “The shuttle to Florence’s center is full of guests, so we have called a taxi to take you anywhere you want in Florence, on us.” A red envelope containing detailed directions to the airport appears in our room within minutes of having mentioned to a staff person that I would want to talk to them about airport directions sometime. I mention that I’d like a table with an especially good view of the Duomo for a special final dinner with friends and sure enough, it is waiting for us that night. I kept saying to myself, “Am I really in Italy,” where I have not come to expect the sort of service you receive at Amans in SE Asia.

And I really enjoyed the escape from the August heat of Florence, which really bakes you when you’re in those vegetation-free streets for even a few minutes. And it’s amazing how just a 5-minute drive from the town center, being on the hillside is noticeably cooler and breezier. The Il Salviatino villa was used most recently as Stanford’s Study Abroad center (those lucky students), but you’d never know it now, because the restoration is so chic and elegant. The public rooms on the ground floor are really handsome, comfortable environs – the library especially is a terrific room, with its long, tufted leather sofas and the most extensive collection of books related to Italian style and art imaginable.

Meals in the summer were entirely on the terrace, with views out to Florence. The breakfast menus were the most impressive I’ve seen at a hotel in ages, with a huge range of delicious offerings, and amuse bouche provided even for breakfast. The dinner menu is smaller, a slight contemporization of Italian classics – and while a bit more uneven in quality that the breakfasts, was mostly very good, if pricey.

Here's the view at sunset from Il Salviatino:



I’d reserved a Dome View Junior Suite, and was initially thrilled to learn we’d been upgraded to the top suite, the Ojetti, which is the only accommodation with a terrace, and sits at the very top and front of the villa, so the views both down to Florence and around to Fiesole and the surrounding hillsides are wondrous. But despite how nice it is to have that terrace, the suite was so eccentric that I found myself sometimes wishing I’d just received the Junior Suite I’d booked (although I never felt that strongly enough to be willing to give up the Ojetti Suite’s terrace). To begin with, to access the Ojetti Suite you cannot take the main elevator, but must cram into a staff elevator that is miniscule. Once in the suite, I was initially thrilled by the living room with its greenhouse ceiling and high-tech retractable blinds, the silver pots of yellow lilies everywhere, and up a small staircase, the bathtub in an aerie of its own and the terrace. The décor is much to my liking – comfortable, white sofas and chairs, wood floors, etc. But upon staying in the room, its discomforts soon manifested themselves. The water pressure in the bathroom, at the top of the house, is unpredictable. The bathroom is not the sort of marble affair we’ve come to expect, but instead contains a sort of gold-painted shower stall that feels as if it is made of inexpensive, low-grade material. The air conditioning does not reach all parts of the suite . . . but does in fact reach the bedroom too effectively as the vent is directly above the bed, blowing onto it in cold gusts such that we had to rig a contraption from the various chairs and spare blankets in the room to prevent it from irritating us throughout the night. Many, I think, will be so smitten with the spaciousness of the suite and the quality of the furnishings and the terrace that these flaws will not concern them, but I feel obliged to mention that this suite, at least, is a mixed bag, and perhaps I would have enjoyed a more traditional room, on the 1st floor, with its high ceilings and large windows, to be more aligned with my desires. But again, that terrace . . . it’s hard to give that up, but I wish I didn’t feel like such trade-offs had to be made in order to enjoy the suite with that terrace!

The living room of the Ojetti Suite:





The free minibar:









The view of Fiesole from the Ojetti Suite's terrace:



The view of Florence from the Ojetti Suite's terrace:



The least impressive aspect of the hotel is the pool and spa, so I can’t recommend Il Salviatino if you’re wanting to spend any amount of time poolside or receiving treatments. The pool is quite a walk down a dirt path from the hotel, although the hotel will of course take you down via buggy. But the quality of the build of the pool is just really lacking – it already appears streaked and dirty, and while there’s a poolboy who provides towels and such, it really is a half-baked affair. The neighboring spa is also very underwhelming, and the treatments we were received were of poor quality.

But if you don’t need a pool/spa, and want a lovely place with nice views, food, and service, I wholeheartedly recommend Il Salviatino.

Groombridge

A 15-minute drive from the classic Tuscan hilltop town of Montalcino, Castiglion del Bosco is another hilltop town, more of a hamlet really, that presides over one of the largest intact remaining Tuscan estates, now owned by Massimo Ferragamo. The hamlet itself is crowned by a ruined castle tower, and a small frescoed chapel, whereas the remaining buildings have been converted into the luxury resort that forms the center of the estate. Scattered across the estate itself are a dozen or so private villas, each with a private infinity pool, which can also be reserved – somewhat like Amanpuri or Trisara. In fact, the whole enterprise brings to mind Aman Sveti Stefan, in its conversion of an entire medieval village and estate into a luxury resort, albeit Castiglion del Bosco appears to be on a smaller scale than Aman Sveti Stefan: 2 restaurants, one large infinity pool, a spa, a fitness center, a boutique, and a number of public spaces.







Ms. Groombridge and I stayed in “Fontaccia Alta,” one of the smallest of the options, but still providing an amazing amount of space for the money. This suite occupies the top floor of a stone cottage, which contains one larger, and more expensive, accommodation on the ground floor. Extending from the room itself is a terrace with sunshade, padded chairs and table, perfect for breakfasts, and there’s an entire additional garden terrace for private sunbathing, napping, and relaxing.







The room design was among the best I’ve ever experienced: with such attention to detail in the selection of draperies, bed textiles, and upholsteries. The ceiling maintains the exposed beams of the farm cottage, but they are beautifully whitewashed. Everything from the canopied bed to the red-painted walls of the bathroom gave a feel of rustic luxury.







The resort provides a number of tours and excursions, as the estate is an active winery, and also produces its own honey and olive oil. And whenever the Palio occurs in nearby Siena, they can provide a bespoke experience whereby you view the Palio from the windows of a palazzo overlooking the race – a huge advantage. We didn’t avail ourselves of any of these tours, as we just wanted to soak up the ambience of our room, the terrace, and the hilltop village with its sensational views.

These views are at their best from:
a) the dining terraces of the two restaurants, one a rustic Italian trattoria on a stone terrace shaded by trees, the other a formal Italian restaurant open only for dinner, on a more formal terrace with a balustrade.
b) The pool and fitness center. The pool is impeccably designed from cream-colored stone, a granite I believe, lined with plantings of lavender, and perched on the lip of the hillside, with Montalcino in the distance. The fitness center of average size, with the advantage of glass walls on all four sides the maximize the opportunities for inspiration.







Service throughout was very casual, not proactive, but warm, friendly and responsive whenever we had a need. An example: the pool is attended all day, but we were not approached for food or drinks at all, and had to make a point of requesting them – at which point, the attendant was perfectly responsive and attentive to the need, and took care of everything with a smile.

The spa itself is a “Daniela Steiner” spa, a spa brand I’d never experienced before, and I wasn’t especially impressed with the design or quality of the treatments.

But otherwise, I really loved this place, and could happily return each summer, trying out a different room each time, so individual is the decoration of each one, and such a perfect blend of comfort, quality, and design.

Groombridge

Going from a place like Castiglion del Bosco to a place like Castello del Nero is bit like going from an Aman resort to Le Meurice. Both are wonderful, but you’re going from informality to a certain degree of formality. Whereas the landscape architects and designers at Castiglion del Bosco have attempted to preserve a feeling of wild nature, the feel of Castello del Nero is one of formal cultivation in which terraces, fountains, and balustrades have created a sort of formal fantasy within the Tuscan landscape.









Again, both are wonderful, and Castello del Nero will definitely appeal to those who want a more traditional European high-end hotel experience in which the staff are formally attired, and the dining a bit more formal than otherwise.

This is not to say you can’t relax at Castello del Nero, as below the several tiers of terraces overlooking the Tuscan countryside, there is a pool terrace with lounge chairs positioned to take full advantage of the quintessential view of cypresses, olive groves, and vineyards. It is a great pleasure simply to spend a significant part of the day soaking up that Tuscan view, with occasional dips in the neighboring pool.











But the most remarkable aspect of Castello del Nero was the spa experience, which reminds you of just what a spa should be: nurturing, individualized, warm, caring, and generous. The staff were the most solicitous I have encountered at a spa in many months, sincerely wanting you to have a wonderful experience, and really taking the time to ensure you are familiar with the range of heat/wet experiences you can have prior to beginning your treatment. The quality of the massages Ms. Groombridge and I received were among the best we’ve ever had, and were such a refreshing change from the pro forma approach many therapists seem to now be taking (5 minutes on right leg, 5 minutes now on left leg, etc.) It is really a very, very good spa, with an excellent vitality pool, sauna/steam rooms, and comfortable relaxation rooms.

Food at Castello del Nero was very good, particularly the ample and extensive breakfast options, and service was proficient and smooth for the entire stay.

I’m not sure I would have loved the stay as much if we hadn’t selected one of the rooms in the historic building with the original period features: the sensationally high, coffered and painted ceiling, the frescoed coat of arms, the deep window bays with ancient wooden shutters. The room is one of the great hotel rooms I’ve experienced, with the only let-down being the quality of the mattress, which was not of sufficient quality to prevent the entire bed from moving whenever one person shifted sleeping positions – it definitely needs to be replaced.









Toiletries in the bathroom were Etro, and the bathroom, up a short flight of stairs and tucked beneath the wooden ceiling beams of the Castello, was well appointed.

MANCHESTER

Such a shame, when we went in 2009 we rated it as our best luxury hotel experience, ever.

caGALINDO

Lackin' some pics but I like the ones you have ^ What are the PN rate on these?

Kagehitokiri

great details, and incredible pics ^

not sure if the villas will be bookable once they sell all 120 memberships (40 sold as of a year ago)

ainternational

Fantastic report, thanks for posting especially with the high quality images. Very nice!

blueline7

A magnificent and unique report! Amazing. Thank you so much, Groombridge.

schriste

Great report, thanks

wripro

Thanks so much for the excellent, comprehensive and, most of all, useful report.

FlyerEC

^
For an enjoyable read too - will have my family check some of them out when they visit in Dec. Tempted to go after after reading your experience for myself

Ericka

Don't know how I missed this report. Sure makes me want to go to Tuscany!

Musken

Tuscany is on our shortlist for next summer. Your wonderful report made me want to go there even more. Thank you!