Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold dead at 57
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Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold dead at 57
Great loss.
In addition to helping us discover hole-in-the-wall places, fabulous street food, great mom-and-pop shops and ethnic restaurants with superb food, his writing style was witty and entertaining.
In addition to helping us discover hole-in-the-wall places, fabulous street food, great mom-and-pop shops and ethnic restaurants with superb food, his writing style was witty and entertaining.
Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold dies at 57
Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning Los Angeles Times restaurant critic who richly chronicled the city’s vast culinary landscape and made its food understandable and approachable to legions of fans, has died. He was 57.
Gold died of pancreatic cancer at St. Vincent Medical Center in Los Angeles this evening, according to his wife, Times arts and entertainment editor Laurie Ochoa. He was diagnosed with the disease in early July.
One of the most widely admired voices of Los Angeles, Gold wrote about restaurants for four decades and became indelibly linked with the city in which he was born and raised.
<snip>
Gold died of pancreatic cancer at St. Vincent Medical Center in Los Angeles this evening, according to his wife, Times arts and entertainment editor Laurie Ochoa. He was diagnosed with the disease in early July.
One of the most widely admired voices of Los Angeles, Gold wrote about restaurants for four decades and became indelibly linked with the city in which he was born and raised.
<snip>
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He'll be missed.
I first found him and his reviews in the former New West/California Magazine and was enamored with his unique finds around Southern California.
His role in finding and reviewing restaurants, especially at both the LA Weekly but also at the LA Times had a huge impact on the food scene and foodie community.
R.I.P.
David
I first found him and his reviews in the former New West/California Magazine and was enamored with his unique finds around Southern California.
His role in finding and reviewing restaurants, especially at both the LA Weekly but also at the LA Times had a huge impact on the food scene and foodie community.
R.I.P.
David
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I discovered him in the Weekly shortly after moving here in 1996 and have eaten at many of his recommendations. At the Weekly he seemed to have particularly good coverage of chinese restaurants in the SGV, which was quite fine with me. When he went to the Times he seemed to move more west side and upscale, so I've been to fewer of those. His attitude toward finding great food at grungy little places in strip malls really helped out a lot of restaurants and a lot of eaters.
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The Los Angeles Times has lifted its paywall for coverage of Jonathan Gold's passing.
The Times' announcement has links many tributes and his guide to L.A.’s 101 Best Restaurants:
The Times' announcement has links many tributes and his guide to L.A.’s 101 Best Restaurants:
A note to our readers: The Times has lifted its paywall on Jonathan Gold coverage
I particularly like the tribute to Gold's legacy by L.A. Times columnist Robin Abcarian:
Los Angeles Times owners Dr. Patrick Soon-Shiong and his wife, Michele, said in a note to the staff today about the death of Jonathan Gold: “Jonathan was a national treasure. He was the only food writer to win a Pulitzer Prize for his lyrical accounts of the Los Angeles food scene. He represented the best of L.A. He captured the stories of Los Angeles’ communities and inspired people across the vast expanse of L.A. to explore our city.”
To help you explore Jonathan Gold’s Los Angeles, we have lifted the paywall on our coverage of his death from pancreatic cancer and the many tributes to his legacy — as well as his guide to L.A.’s 101 Best Restaurants. Here is The Times' developing coverage:
<snip>
To help you explore Jonathan Gold’s Los Angeles, we have lifted the paywall on our coverage of his death from pancreatic cancer and the many tributes to his legacy — as well as his guide to L.A.’s 101 Best Restaurants. Here is The Times' developing coverage:
<snip>
Jonathan Gold didn't just elevate the art of food writing and restaurant criticism, he helped a fractured region understand itself
excerpt:
excerpt:
Until I began reading Jonathan, I knew nothing of the San Gabriel Valley’s Hong Kong seafood scene. I gave little thought to birria — the savory goat stew of Central Mexico — until I read Jonathan’s take on a restaurant called El Parian in L.A.’s Pico-Union neighborhood. I could not have defined “congee” until he extolled its virtues in a 2014 review of the Hollywood pop-up restaurant Porridge and Puffs.
“It is easy to laugh at the idea of a porridge-intensive restaurant,” he wrote, “until you taste a spoonful of the rice porridge with pickles and jam: an arrangement of herbs, fermented mustard greens and a spoonful of a sharp, lemongrass-infused chile condiment as dazzling in its complexity as anything coming out of the most famous kitchens in town.”
Jonathan was an unusually generous critic. He could make a restaurant but he would never break one. Unlike so many restaurant critics who seemed to derive pleasure from composing the clever and quotable put-down (as, for instance, New York Times critic Pete Wells, who infamously compared the soup at Manhattan’s high-end Per Se to “bong water”), Jonathan was never unkind. This empathy did not lessen his impact as a critic; on the contrary, it conferred a kind of superlegitimacy on him, as chefs knew that he knew what they were trying to do, even when they fell short.
“It is easy to laugh at the idea of a porridge-intensive restaurant,” he wrote, “until you taste a spoonful of the rice porridge with pickles and jam: an arrangement of herbs, fermented mustard greens and a spoonful of a sharp, lemongrass-infused chile condiment as dazzling in its complexity as anything coming out of the most famous kitchens in town.”
Jonathan was an unusually generous critic. He could make a restaurant but he would never break one. Unlike so many restaurant critics who seemed to derive pleasure from composing the clever and quotable put-down (as, for instance, New York Times critic Pete Wells, who infamously compared the soup at Manhattan’s high-end Per Se to “bong water”), Jonathan was never unkind. This empathy did not lessen his impact as a critic; on the contrary, it conferred a kind of superlegitimacy on him, as chefs knew that he knew what they were trying to do, even when they fell short.
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Jonathan Gold about the short lived Los Angeles Michelin Red Guide:
EATER - 12 Great Pieces of Food Writing From Jonathan Gold
Last year’s inaugural Michelin Guide to Los Angeles restaurants was appalling, ignorant of the way Angelenos eat, reading as if it was put together by a team too timid to venture further than a few minutes from their Beverly Hills hotel. This year’s guide, although it is more or less identical, is just boring...Unless you happen to be a French business traveler terrified of the teeming masses outside your hotel, I see no reason to pay attention to the Los Angeles guide at all.
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Here Are LA’s Most Famous Buildings Lit Up to Honor Jonathan Gold
From Santa Monica to Downtown, a glowing tribute
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Wow -- all these tributes in print/online, landmarks lighted up, a mural quickly painted, and meanwhile, Gold's family (wife and two children) are suffering financially from his sudden death. (Maybe he didn't have health insurance and/or life insurance? I don't know.)
A GoFundMe campaign has raised over $150,000 thus far.
https://la.eater.com/2018/7/25/17613...er-los-angeles
Really not sure what to think about this situation, but I don't want this thread to be sent to OMNI/PR, so....
A GoFundMe campaign has raised over $150,000 thus far.
https://la.eater.com/2018/7/25/17613...er-los-angeles
Really not sure what to think about this situation, but I don't want this thread to be sent to OMNI/PR, so....
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While Gold I'm sure was earning a significant amount of money, his wife - Laurie Ochoa is the "Arts & Entertainment Editor of the L.A. Times. It's hard to accept their financial situation right now is critical. Hopefully the GoFundMe campaign is heavily earmarked for something like higher education, covering their 15 year-old son (and if still warranted, their 23 year-old daughter).
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Tribune, Sam Zell, and Tronc took turns looting the LA Times pension so its unclear what Gold's family will be entitled to receive. And Gold worked as a writer and print journalist basically his entire career while newspaper industry was on a downward spiral into oblivion. It's likely that Gold has very little savings or estate upon his death. He had enough fame for people to care about. I know a few people who were laid off by Tronc over the last few years that worked at LA Times for their entire career. Let's just say that they are not doing well financially.
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According to the the Los Angeles Times Guild study published in April of this year (PDF), the average salary of a Los Angeles Times columnist/critic is $153,087. The 25th percentile is $128,895, the 50th percentile $147,112 and the 75th percentile $160,853.
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When FH and I started dating I’d make him take me to all the nearby Jonathan Gold recommendations whenever I visited him (and got totally hooked on the spring rolls at Golden Deli, which made it hard to go other places during my limited time on the ground). We just watched City of Gold and now I’m kind of homesick for a place I’ve never lived.
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As a Bay Area resident who has suffered a "most precious reviewer" over the past couple of decades, one who is now finally retiring, we can only hope that our next "guy" will be at least half the guy that Jonathan Gold was.
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The thing that made me miss LA was when he drove by King Taco #2 (in East LA where the 60 and 710 meet). That was the one closest to my office and many a lunch run was made to there (and, yes, the food from the truck in the parking lot was better than the counter).
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I assume you are referring to M.B. His "reign" as Bay Area food critic has actually been more than 30 years!