Ryokan Recommendations
Sep 25, 2008 | 3:11 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 37
Ryokan Recommendations
I am traveling to Japan in May 2009 (30th wedding anniversary). Looking for some Japanese traditional ryokan with scenic settings and fairly easy to get to. We are visiting Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima and Mijiyama. Flexible enough to stray - I have studied Japanese for 4 years so I don't mind no English speaking accomadations. I have checked many web sites, but would perfer some real life experience input. Also, looking to stay at a temple if any one has any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Sep 25, 2008 | 5:17 pm
#2
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota,USA
Programs: UA, NW
Posts: 3,752
The temple experience par excellence is Koyasan, in Wakayama-ken southwest of Osaka and reachable by Nankai Railway from Osaka's Nankai Namba station or by a roundabout JR route, if you have JR passes.
You make a reservation through the central booking agency (most guidebooks have the phone and fax numbers; they probably have e-mail nowadays for all I know), and the agency assigns you a temple depending on space available. When you arrive at the end of a very scenic journey, the last leg of which is by private railroad, you go to the booking office in the station and they give you bus directions to "your" temple.
The rooms and prices are like those of a mid-class ryokan, although without private bath, and you are served an ample vegan dinner in a common guest dining room. There may be a lecture on Buddhism (in Japanese) during the dinner. The only uniform religious requirement is that you attend their 6:00AM service. Since there is really nothing to do in the evening, you may as well turn in early. Even if you speak Japanese, the service is rather tedious, because it consists of the monks chanting in the Japanese pronunciation of classical Chinese. But it's a small price to pay. After an ample vegan breakfast, you are free to explore the other temples and the small town that exists to serve the temples and their visitors, as well as the cemetery and the tomb of Kobo Daishi.
I went the roundabout JR route from Osaka to Koyasan to Nara, and the trip took a couple of hours each way.
You make a reservation through the central booking agency (most guidebooks have the phone and fax numbers; they probably have e-mail nowadays for all I know), and the agency assigns you a temple depending on space available. When you arrive at the end of a very scenic journey, the last leg of which is by private railroad, you go to the booking office in the station and they give you bus directions to "your" temple.
The rooms and prices are like those of a mid-class ryokan, although without private bath, and you are served an ample vegan dinner in a common guest dining room. There may be a lecture on Buddhism (in Japanese) during the dinner. The only uniform religious requirement is that you attend their 6:00AM service. Since there is really nothing to do in the evening, you may as well turn in early. Even if you speak Japanese, the service is rather tedious, because it consists of the monks chanting in the Japanese pronunciation of classical Chinese. But it's a small price to pay. After an ample vegan breakfast, you are free to explore the other temples and the small town that exists to serve the temples and their visitors, as well as the cemetery and the tomb of Kobo Daishi.
I went the roundabout JR route from Osaka to Koyasan to Nara, and the trip took a couple of hours each way.
Sep 26, 2008 | 9:23 am
#3
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Terra Australis Cognita
Posts: 5,353
A good starting point for Mt. Koya: http://wikitravel.org/en/Mount_Koya
I don't believe there are any JR services to Mount Koya, even roundabout ones; you'll need to use Nankai for at least the last leg up the mountain. The last hour or so of the trip is incredibly scenic, especially in cherry blossom season, although I'm afraid May will be a wee bit late for that.
You are by no means "required" to attend the morning service (at least not at the two temples I've stayed at?), but it's definitely a part of the experience and you'll miss out if you don't. Zoning out while listening to the priests chant as the incense wafts and random monks clang instruments at intervals is quite hypnotic, which is the whole point.
I don't believe there are any JR services to Mount Koya, even roundabout ones; you'll need to use Nankai for at least the last leg up the mountain. The last hour or so of the trip is incredibly scenic, especially in cherry blossom season, although I'm afraid May will be a wee bit late for that.
You are by no means "required" to attend the morning service (at least not at the two temples I've stayed at?), but it's definitely a part of the experience and you'll miss out if you don't. Zoning out while listening to the priests chant as the incense wafts and random monks clang instruments at intervals is quite hypnotic, which is the whole point.