Comment on Kyoto for first-time visitors
#16
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: EWR
Programs: UA (former CO), TrueBlue, Etc.
Posts: 291
And don't forget, Kyoto does have a theme park: Toei Uzumasa Eigamura!
#17
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota,USA
Programs: UA, NW
Posts: 3,752
I may be the only one here that actually *likes* some of the "ugly" aspects of Japanese cities. The crisscrossing overhead wires, narrow, barely-wide-enough streets, the juxtaposition of old and new, wood and concrete, beautiful and ugly: these things give the cities a very real, intimate feeling. They aren't a showplace designed for tourists to come and marvel at a style of architecture from centuries ago, they are places where people live and work. I'm not sure quite how to describe it, but I think that Japanese cities tend to have a very interesting character that can't be found in most other places.
Much of Japan's "beauty" comes, in my opinion, not from just the physically gorgeous temples and shrines, but from the people, their attitudes, and culture. The garish neon of parts of Tokyo perfectly illustrates the often frantic, fast-paced nature of Tokyo and its citizens. Yet walk a few blocks away (or even just next door, in many cases) to some temple, shrine, or other patch of green space, and you'll also be provided with a wonderful example of peace and tranquility that Tokyoites also appreciate.
Much of Japan's "beauty" comes, in my opinion, not from just the physically gorgeous temples and shrines, but from the people, their attitudes, and culture. The garish neon of parts of Tokyo perfectly illustrates the often frantic, fast-paced nature of Tokyo and its citizens. Yet walk a few blocks away (or even just next door, in many cases) to some temple, shrine, or other patch of green space, and you'll also be provided with a wonderful example of peace and tranquility that Tokyoites also appreciate.
#18
Join Date: Oct 2004
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This information isn't a secret. It is well-known that central Kyoto isn't exactly a beautiful sight. Geographically, it doesn't lend itself to that (flat land, square grid, miserable little river cutting through it). However, the U-shaped area around it, which includes Higashiyama, Rakuto, and Arashiyama, is some of the most stunningly beautiful combination of nature and human hands.
Whenever I'm in Kyoto, I literally head for the hills. I'm never disappointed.
Whenever I'm in Kyoto, I literally head for the hills. I'm never disappointed.
Imagine yourself on a tatami mat above a mountain stream, the sun setting in the background. In front of you the finest local produce and small raku mugs filled with carefully paired shochu...
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2004
Programs: BA blue, LH Senator, KQ (FB) gold
Posts: 8,214
As others have said, this isn't classified information. The Rough Guide to Japan says something to the effect of "If you were expecting nothing but traditional buildings and temples and green space, you'll be sorely disappointed when you step out of Kyoto Station." It goes on, of course, to explain that there are lots of places where this stereotypical beauty of old Japan does exist.
I am sure Pickles is right that this isn't a secret. But it also isn't commented on very frequently by visitors. Iwould have appreciated it if there had been more discussion of this fact. Perhaps it wouldn't have helped Pickles.
I do want to be clear here. I am not saying that I did not enjoy Kyoto, both beautiful and 'ugly'. I am merely saying that it was different from my expectations.
Also, I concur with scifience about the people of Japan. I was commenting on a very specific aspect of Kyoto and how it struck me, nothing else.
#20



Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: WAS
Posts: 892
If you want a very pessimistic view of where Japan is headed, and specific commentary on Kyoto's blight, check out Dogs and Demons by Alex Kerr.
Some of his chapters are scary, in the way the government seems to be endlessly destroying that which is so beautiful in Japan, but others seem to be just plain whiny- he clearly doesn't think much of popular culture.
Some of his chapters are scary, in the way the government seems to be endlessly destroying that which is so beautiful in Japan, but others seem to be just plain whiny- he clearly doesn't think much of popular culture.
#21




Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TYO / WAS / NYC
Programs: American Express got a hit man lookin' for me
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I recommend /against/ Alex Kerr. Someone must have dropped a brick of concrete on his head when he was a kid, because he's /really/ got it in for the concrete, and he has no qualms about using up a ream of paper to beat his hatred for concrete into your head...
For stereotypical beauty of old Japan, Arashiyama comes highly recommended. Or, if you want a cheaper day/overnight trip from Tokyo, take the Tobu train to Nikko and wander around the bamboo forests.
For stereotypical beauty of old Japan, Arashiyama comes highly recommended. Or, if you want a cheaper day/overnight trip from Tokyo, take the Tobu train to Nikko and wander around the bamboo forests.
#22
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Concrete has been a favourite material of Japanese star architects even for temples in the last decade or so. The one exception would be Shigeru Ban with his penchant for paper and wood.
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, Jo'burg, HK
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Posts: 13,873
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2001
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The hunting grounds of Pickles-sama also include some of the most beautiful and pleasant al fresco eateries on the planet.
Imagine yourself on a tatami mat above a mountain stream, the sun setting in the background. In front of you the finest local produce and small raku mugs filled with carefully paired shochu...
Imagine yourself on a tatami mat above a mountain stream, the sun setting in the background. In front of you the finest local produce and small raku mugs filled with carefully paired shochu...
#25




Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TYO / WAS / NYC
Programs: American Express got a hit man lookin' for me
Posts: 5,274
Let's not forget Tokyo's greatest concrete abomination: the Supreme Court, which comes straight out of Star Wars, or perhaps the Klingon homeworld.
http://flickr.com/search/?q=japan%20...%20court&w=all
http://flickr.com/search/?q=japan%20...%20court&w=all
#26
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: EWR
Programs: UA (former CO), TrueBlue, Etc.
Posts: 291
I don't know about those, but I had a GREAT hamburger at some bizarre modern rock cafe on one of the back streets.
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2001
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Posts: 13,873
Let's not forget Tokyo's greatest concrete abomination: the Supreme Court, which comes straight out of Star Wars, or perhaps the Klingon homeworld.
http://flickr.com/search/?q=japan%20...%20court&w=all
http://flickr.com/search/?q=japan%20...%20court&w=all
#28
Join Date: Jan 2005
Programs: UA
Posts: 130
Corb + Maekawa's Museum in Ueno and Maekawa's own Bunka Kaikan are two monuments of international modernism. While they may not appeal to the untrained eye, they are products of an heroic ethos and embody significant architectural ideas.
If it is gendai wafu (Japanese modern) one is after, in addition to Maekawa's own house on display in the Tatemono En, it is worthwhile to check out the works of several of his contemporaries. Yoshimura Junzo, Yoshida Isoya come first to mind. Some, like Taniguchi Yoshiro (dad), Horiguchi Sutemi, Oe Hiroshi, dabbled more than others in wafu. Maekawa's House was built during the height of the war, and willingly or not bears the stamp of the nationalist fervor of its time.
If it is gendai wafu (Japanese modern) one is after, in addition to Maekawa's own house on display in the Tatemono En, it is worthwhile to check out the works of several of his contemporaries. Yoshimura Junzo, Yoshida Isoya come first to mind. Some, like Taniguchi Yoshiro (dad), Horiguchi Sutemi, Oe Hiroshi, dabbled more than others in wafu. Maekawa's House was built during the height of the war, and willingly or not bears the stamp of the nationalist fervor of its time.
#29
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Asia/Europe
Programs: CX, OZ, MU (+AY, DL), Shangri-La, Hilton
Posts: 7,233
Btw,my ex-GF used to do arubaito at the Kibune eatery where we'd often pass on hiking trips. But I'll try and dig up some alternatives.
Last edited by mosburger; Mar 16, 2007 at 11:33 pm Reason: y
#30
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Asia/Europe
Programs: CX, OZ, MU (+AY, DL), Shangri-La, Hilton
Posts: 7,233
Modern Japanese architects are masters at the use of concrete. For example, these pictures of the Wind Chapel in Mt. Rokko by Ando do not make it justice.

