It's been a couple of years, so I can't be positive it is still there - but on our honeymoon around Italy we LOVED LOVED LOVED a trattoria called Pandemonia or Pandemonio - the food was divine, the prices reasonable, the wine memorable and the service outstanding! I think it had an indoor area, but you have to sit in the mostly enclosed but outdoor-feeling courtyard area in the back.

It is family run and we felt like part of the family - as we were leaving we told them it was the best meal we had in Italy, and the father said "Say to everyone! Say to everyone!", then the mother grabbed me and was saying (forgive my spelling) "Dua Bacci" and I realized she wanted to do the "cheek/cheek european double airkiss" haha! So I did...and I've been taking every opportunity like this to 'say to everyone' ever since...

Oh, I can't wait to go back! I hope you will look into this one.