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-   -   Where to Eat in Florence [Master Thread] (https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/italy/1806076-where-eat-florence-master-thread.html)

PWMTrav Feb 17, 2017 6:56 am


Originally Posted by PsiFighter37 (Post 27919800)
So thinking what we will do:

-Antico Vinaio on Saturday afternoon when we arrive; Pinchiorri for dinner
-Casalinga for lunch on Sunday (close to Accademia, where we will be going in the afternoon). Dinner on Sunday TBD
-Gozzi for lunch on Monday. Dinner on Monday TBD

Thinking that maybe we will end up doing the Central Market as a place to visit for a snack, or perhaps do a very casual dinner there on either Sunday or Monday night. Guess my question comes down to: is the market a good place for a casual meal, or is it more of a spot for a bite (or is it worth going there instead of Gozzi?)

Mercato Centrale is a good place for a casual meal or a snack, depending on what you're in the mood for. The variety, and the quality of that variety, is excellent. We usually end up there twice over a week's span for a meal, and sometimes go there later on at night for a drink and a snack.

I would try to get to both there and Sergio Gozzi. Sometimes Gozzi is really busy, although Monday is a decent bet, but if it is, you can keep walking the short distance to the market and eat there instead. But I'd try for both.

However, Casalinga is not near the Accademia. They're on opposite sides of Florence, actually. La Casalinga is near Santo Spirito, south of the river, near Palazzo Pitti - and walking the Boboli Gardens is a really nice thing to do before lunch there. Here is a map:

https://goo.gl/maps/9xQpqvtrPh42

There might be other restaurants with a similar name. You want the one on that map.

PsiFighter37 Feb 19, 2017 4:47 am

Yeah...realized that I had mislocated the Accademia when searching on Google Maps.

Antica Vinaio was amazing; Pinchiorri was excellent, but I do think that the detour maybe wasn't worth it vs. the other options undoubtedly awaiting us. The wine selection is amazing, though.

PWMTrav Feb 19, 2017 7:52 am


Originally Posted by PsiFighter37 (Post 27929179)
Yeah...realized that I had mislocated the Accademia when searching on Google Maps.

Antica Vinaio was amazing; Pinchiorri was excellent, but I do think that the detour maybe wasn't worth it vs. the other options undoubtedly awaiting us. The wine selection is amazing, though.

Hopefully Casalinga was good. If you're still trying to figure out dinner this evening, Cipolla Rossa is a good option if you're up in that area. Or Del Fagioli if you're closer to the river. I'd call ahead, though - this time of year tourist traffic is low enough that they can usually do same-day reservations, but walk-ins are still hit or miss for dinner on Sunday since people from the area might drive in for dinner.

PsiFighter37 Feb 19, 2017 9:26 am


Originally Posted by PWMTrav (Post 27929657)
Hopefully Casalinga was good. If you're still trying to figure out dinner this evening, Cipolla Rossa is a good option if you're up in that area. Or Del Fagioli if you're closer to the river. I'd call ahead, though - this time of year tourist traffic is low enough that they can usually do same-day reservations, but walk-ins are still hit or miss for dinner on Sunday since people from the area might drive in for dinner.

Is Del Fagioli open on Sundays? I thought it was closed...we are still a bit on the fence for what to do for dinner tonight otherwise. We ended up doing lunch at the market...one of the places does only dishes with truffles...we had a tartare and a tagliolini dish with black truffle. The tartare was good but the pasta might be the best I've had anywhere yet.

PWMTrav Feb 19, 2017 11:54 am

I forgot it was Sunday. Del Fagioli is closed - so is Casalinga actually.

I know Cipolla Rossa is open on Sundays, we were just there 2 Sundays ago. I'm pretty sure Il Latini is also open on Sundays.

PsiFighter37 Feb 21, 2017 1:53 am

Sitting in FRA waiting to board my flight back to the U.S...my thoughts:

-Antico Vinaio - absolutely worth it, but the lines were long at every time we walked by except when we went (which was around 3:45 on Saturday afternoon). Prosciutto, pecorino, and black truffle sauce...to die for.

-Enoteca Pinchiorri - already shared my thoughts here...very good, a bit overpriced, but excellent execution on the dishes all around.

-Mercato Centrale - lots of interesting choices; the truffle pasta was excellent though. Would try the other place preparing pasta fresh behind it next time as the place to start.

-Trattoria da Benvenuto - came here on Sunday night after scouring the options for this day. Pretty homey, English-language menus available, if not waiters with much English knowledge. Cheap wine (full bottles in the 25-30 euro range). Prosciutto with buffalo mozzarella was quite good, as was the pasta (wife's seafood spaghetti was phenomenal). Did a Florentine steak on the smaller side - quite good, although I don't think it's necessarily the be-all, end-all for steaks.

-Trattoria Gozzi - showed up as soon as they opened for lunch. Wife's pasta with guinea fowl was delicious. I did the lampredotto - good flavor but texture was definitely more challenging. I liked the fried meatballs (which are basically croquettes).

-Del Fogioli - made a reservation for 7:30pm (when it opened) but didn't need to - we were first ones in. No English menu but we managed alright...really liked my penne with some kind of ragu. The roast beef was excellent - thin slices lightly marinated in olive oil and served au jus. Bruschetta was really fresh.

General comments - all pasta I had was cooked perfectly...the U.S. could learn something about this. Gelato everywhere was fantastic as well. I also developed a habit...milk gianduja bars with whole hazelnuts are dangerously delicious and addictive!

PWMTrav Feb 21, 2017 9:02 am

Glad you had a good time. Del Fagioli is deceiving. If you show up at 7:30, it looks empty, but the two times I've been there every table is full by 9. I really enjoyed it, too.

Regarding the Bistecca Fiorentina, I agree it's not the end all of steaks. I'd never tell them this, but American beef is just better. I do like the technique, as simple as it is. I'll order one to share once per visit to the city, though.

Had you tried lampredotto before? I like it, but the texture is certainly... acquired.

Now you have to tell us your favorite gelateria. Unfortunately, my favorites were closed when we went - Perche No, Carapina and Vivoli.

PsiFighter37 Feb 21, 2017 11:14 am


Originally Posted by PWMTrav (Post 27938343)
Glad you had a good time. Del Fagioli is deceiving. If you show up at 7:30, it looks empty, but the two times I've been there every table is full by 9. I really enjoyed it, too.

Regarding the Bistecca Fiorentina, I agree it's not the end all of steaks. I'd never tell them this, but American beef is just better. I do like the technique, as simple as it is. I'll order one to share once per visit to the city, though.

Had you tried lampredotto before? I like it, but the texture is certainly... acquired.

Now you have to tell us your favorite gelateria. Unfortunately, my favorites were closed when we went - Perche No, Carapina and Vivoli.

I had not had lampredotto previously, but I saw it on a sandwich cart and thought it'd be worth a try on a pasta dish. I would probably pass if I had other choices.

As for gelato, I really liked Gelateria del Neri (just a couple minutes down the same road as Antico Vinaio)...perhaps a bit touristy (there were always a decent number of Americans in line when we went), but it was so good. Their cremino de nocciola (probably messed the spelling up there) was so decadent. At 1.8 euros for a small with 2 flavors, it puts NYC to shame from both a cost and quality perspective.

PWMTrav Feb 21, 2017 12:53 pm


Originally Posted by PsiFighter37 (Post 27938938)
As for gelato, I really liked Gelateria del Neri (just a couple minutes down the same road as Antico Vinaio)...perhaps a bit touristy (there were always a decent number of Americans in line when we went), but it was so good. Their cremino de nocciola (probably messed the spelling up there) was so decadent. At 1.8 euros for a small with 2 flavors, it puts NYC to shame from both a cost and quality perspective.

If you feel any better about the touristy-ness of it, keep in mind most of the historic center of Florence is geared to tourists. Very few Florentines can afford to actually live there, although many work there. And more importantly, 1.80 euro for a small means you didn't get tourist-gouged. There are some shops nearby charging 8 euro for a small cone. That is not a typo.

In Florence, always ask if the price isn't posted, because some places will really screw you.

bryanwallace Feb 22, 2017 6:14 pm


Originally Posted by PWMTrav (Post 27939372)
If you feel any better about the touristy-ness of it, keep in mind most of the historic center of Florence is geared to tourists. Very few Florentines can afford to actually live there, although many work there. And more importantly, 1.80 euro for a small means you didn't get tourist-gouged. There are some shops nearby charging 8 euro for a small cone. That is not a typo.

In Florence, always ask if the price isn't posted, because some places will really screw you.

sorry for hijacking but where would people recommend for pizza in florence with kids?
pref near duomo..
went previously to pizzauilo and it was fantastic...any other places recommended.

PWMTrav Feb 23, 2017 8:07 am


Originally Posted by bryanwallace (Post 27945349)
sorry for hijacking but where would people recommend for pizza in florence with kids?
pref near duomo..
went previously to pizzauilo and it was fantastic...any other places recommended.

Near the duomo, I'd suggest Pizzeria Toto if you want to order and take out. It's not perfect by any stretch, but I think they do a good job. There are two related locations - I'm partial to the one on Via Dante Alighieri, mostly for takeout since they only have a small counter to sit at. You can either get slices warmed up out of the case or order a fresh pizza (which I recommend).

If you prefer to sit down or can wander a few extra blocks, O'Vesuvio (yeah, of Jersey Shore fame) actually makes really good pizza. Better than Toto. It's pizza napoletana, and a good representation that far north. They have the correct oven. I'd go here.

bryanwallace Feb 24, 2017 3:48 am

thanks-what is pizzauilo like?some people recommended it
i think its near one of the markets..
i would park my car and walk into the duomo -so the pizzeria doesnt have to be right at the duomo just between a park place and duomo

helosc Mar 11, 2017 9:41 am

II
 
I might have mentioned it before but just went there for lunch today:
Da Rocco Trattoria in Al Mercato di S. Ambrogio.
Had lunch there today: roastbeef + bresaola + bread + pineapple + budino del cioccolato + white wine. Bill came to 18.5 €.
Very casual - very enjoyable. Will go back on Monday. As single person you share a table with other people - always very busy.
Am in the Mercado Centrale now - grazing.....

helosc Mar 13, 2017 12:23 pm

Had Foccacia with Breasola in the Prosciutteria, via de Neri, both yesterday and today ( line for the All Antico Vinaio was far too long).
Perfectly nice sandwiches - 4.5€.

As a total aside:
How about starting an informal, non-specific, all about Italy, chatty thread?
For discussions about all and everything, for small questions not meriting their own thread, for small complaints, for news, for entertainment....
There's a tendency in this forum to go off topic anyway, so a general thread could be a good idea.
The SAS Eurobonus (Scandinavian Airlines) forum has an informal cafe thread and I find it very useful.
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/sas-e...orum-kafe.html

I, for instance, wanted to share what a good time I've been having here in Firenze - sunshine, lots of food, lots of wine - I don't know what it is about Italy that releases the inner glutton/enjoyer of life - but I can't very well start a new thread called 'la dolce vita', can I?

PWMTrav Mar 13, 2017 1:06 pm

Start the thread! I'll participate.

Also glad you liked Da Rocco.


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