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Two weeks in Italy -- too much?

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Old Jan 3, 2016, 11:28 am
  #61  
 
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Originally Posted by Perche
There are many places in Florence to drop off a car outside of the ZTL. Most rental car companies place their drop offs just outside the ZTL on Borgo Ognissanti, near Ponte Vespucci.

For example, from Hertz on Ognissanti outside of the ZTL it's just a 5 minute walk to the train station, or a 10-15 minute walk to the Duomo, or you can take a cab. Most of the car rental agencies have a drop off on Borgo Ognissanto.

You can certainly drop the car off at the airport then take a cab to the Duomo and waste an hour and 20-30 euros, but it's cheaper and faster to just drive to Florence and drop if off just outside of the ZTL and walk a few blocks.
The reason I didn't suggest that and generally don't to first timers are the hours. I don't like doing dropoffs after closing in Italy since I don't want them marking up phantom damage, and at some of the smaller agencies they close in the evening, and even then the posted hours in Florence may not be the hours they actually follow. If you plan to arrive mid-day on a weekday, this is a good option, but if it's a weekend or later on in the day, I'd personally drop off at the airport locations and take a taxi.

It's a little conservative of me, I know. But I also don't rent cars in Italy too often.
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Old Jan 11, 2016, 8:22 am
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Perche
...there are far more convenient ways to drop a car off when visiting Florence, such as in Florence, but outside of the ZTL.

There are many places in Florence to drop off a car outside of the ZTL. Most rental car companies place their drop offs just outside the ZTL on Borgo Ognissanti, near Ponte Vespucci.

For example, from Hertz on Ognissanti outside of the ZTL it's just a 5 minute walk to the train station, or a 10-15 minute walk to the Duomo, or you can take a cab. Most of the car rental agencies have a drop off on Borgo Ognissanto.

You can certainly drop the car off at the airport then take a cab to the Duomo and waste an hour and 20-30 euros, but it's cheaper and faster to just drive to Florence and drop if off just outside of the ZTL and walk a few blocks.
Originally Posted by Perche
don't get lost on the way there.
Ideally we would do just this and return the car right in Florence to save time and money. However I'm looking at this map:

http://www.florence-on-line.com/imag...iving-map.html

And it looks like Borgo Ognissanto is the *only* street in the ZTL we can drive on, meaning one error/incorrect turn (or lack thereof) is a ticket. I'm not sure how easy it is to get to Borgo Ognissanto from the west and then how easy it is to get to the rental office. If its manageable, we'd certainly prefer to do it that way...
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Old Jan 11, 2016, 9:29 am
  #63  
 
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Originally Posted by detroit1010
Ideally we would do just this and return the car right in Florence to save time and money. However I'm looking at this map:

http://www.florence-on-line.com/imag...iving-map.html

And it looks like Borgo Ognissanto is the *only* street in the ZTL we can drive on, meaning one error/incorrect turn (or lack thereof) is a ticket. I'm not sure how easy it is to get to Borgo Ognissanto from the west and then how easy it is to get to the rental office. If its manageable, we'd certainly prefer to do it that way...
It's hard to make an error if you go over the Bridge called Ponte A. Vespucci coming in from the west. Borgo Ognissanti is the second street you come to, a one-way street going left, which is where all the rental car agencies are.

You go over Ponte Vespucci. Ignore the street on the water front, the Lungarno A. Vespucci. The first street you come to will be Via Montebello and it is one way to the right. Borgo Ognissanti is the second street you'll come to, going one way to the left. Just go over the bridge and take the second street, a one way going left, Borgo Ognissanti. All of the rental car agencies, AutoEuropa, Avis, Hertz, and Sixt, are on that one block, so go slowly.

The only thing that could mess you up is if you use Avis and rely on GPS. You can do it, but you have to be careful and put in very explicit directions about what you want.

The reason is because in the USA if you want to donate blood you go to the Red Cross. In Florence, you go to AVIS: Associazione Volunteri Italiani da Sangue (Association of Italian Blood Volunteers), which is coincidentally also on Borgo Ognissanti 100 yards away from AVIS rental car, and your GPS is more likely to direct you there than to the rental car agency.

To donate blood at AVIS after you go over Ponte A. Vespucci and get to the second street, Borgo Ognissanti, you'd have to make a right and go against one way traffic. Your GPS will know this and will try to send you around the block, into the ZTL. Ignore it. Just go over the bridge and take the second street, your first left. All of the rental car companies are on that block.

Last edited by Perche; Jan 11, 2016 at 12:34 pm
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Old Jan 16, 2016, 4:52 am
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Perche
It's hard to make an error if you go over the Bridge called Ponte A. Vespucci coming in from the west. Borgo Ognissanti is the second street you come to, a one-way street going left, which is where all the rental car agencies are.

You go over Ponte Vespucci. Ignore the street on the water front, the Lungarno A. Vespucci. The first street you come to will be Via Montebello and it is one way to the right. Borgo Ognissanti is the second street you'll come to, going one way to the left. Just go over the bridge and take the second street, a one way going left, Borgo Ognissanti. All of the rental car agencies, AutoEuropa, Avis, Hertz, and Sixt, are on that one block, so go slowly.

The only thing that could mess you up is if you use Avis and rely on GPS. You can do it, but you have to be careful and put in very explicit directions about what you want.

The reason is because in the USA if you want to donate blood you go to the Red Cross. In Florence, you go to AVIS: Associazione Volunteri Italiani da Sangue (Association of Italian Blood Volunteers), which is coincidentally also on Borgo Ognissanti 100 yards away from AVIS rental car, and your GPS is more likely to direct you there than to the rental car agency.

To donate blood at AVIS after you go over Ponte A. Vespucci and get to the second street, Borgo Ognissanti, you'd have to make a right and go against one way traffic. Your GPS will know this and will try to send you around the block, into the ZTL. Ignore it. Just go over the bridge and take the second street, your first left. All of the rental car companies are on that block.
Great, thank you for the instructions. Seems pretty reasonable.

My only question is in the map I linked in my last post, it looks like before crossing the bridge I'll be driving on a ZTL E zone. Not sure what this means? If it's a normal ZTL I suppose I'll have to come from the west and follow the yellow line of twists and turns to get to the bridge.
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Old Jan 19, 2016, 5:18 am
  #65  
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Originally Posted by detroit1010
Great, thank you for the instructions. Seems pretty reasonable.

My only question is in the map I linked in my last post, it looks like before crossing the bridge I'll be driving on a ZTL E zone. Not sure what this means? If it's a normal ZTL I suppose I'll have to come from the west and follow the yellow line of twists and turns to get to the bridge.
Nevermind (I think)! I found a Hertz office that looks to be outside of the ZTL.

The address is: VIA DEL SANSOVINO 53

Looks like it should be easy to return the car there from Tuscany and then get to our hotel.
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 6:33 am
  #66  
 
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Originally Posted by detroit1010
Nevermind (I think)! I found a Hertz office that looks to be outside of the ZTL.

The address is: VIA DEL SANSOVINO 53

Looks like it should be easy to return the car there from Tuscany and then get to our hotel.
I wound up driving through Florence yesterday, right past Ponte Vespucci, and went into the downtown two bridges down. I was driving with someone from Florence, and he didn't worry about it.

As is common in Italy, you ask people there something, and they don't know. I asked him the best route for you, and he said he didn't know. The ZTL changes depending on the time of day, and day of the week. There are traffic lights that say ZTL and they have a green light or a red light. He said, "if there's a red light, just don't go. But nothing about the ZTL is hidden. You only get a ticket if you have no idea what you are doing, and drive around obliviously."

I don't think you should have to stress your trip. The Hertz that you found is only a 10-15 dollar cab ride into the center. That's going to be far cheaper and way faster than dropping it off two hours away in Sienna and buying two train tickets. It's also faster, cheaper, and far less hassle that going out to the airport to drop off a rental car.

Your only other alternative is, when you pick up your car, ask them for a map and to outline how you can get there, or have them report your car to the police, then you won't have to worry. For example, if someone is staying at a hotel in the center and they have to drive through the ZTL to get there, you just ask the hotel to report your license plate number to the police the day before, and you can drive through that particular ZTL.

So these are all good options, and there is nothing wrong with dropping it off at Hertz, asking them to call you a cab, and paying 10-15 dollars for you peace of mind.
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 8:46 am
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Perche
I wound up driving through Florence yesterday, right past Ponte Vespucci, and went into the downtown two bridges down. I was driving with someone from Florence, and he didn't worry about it.

As is common in Italy, you ask people there something, and they don't know. I asked him the best route for you, and he said he didn't know. The ZTL changes depending on the time of day, and day of the week. There are traffic lights that say ZTL and they have a green light or a red light. He said, "if there's a red light, just don't go. But nothing about the ZTL is hidden. You only get a ticket if you have no idea what you are doing, and drive around obliviously."

I don't think you should have to stress your trip. The Hertz that you found is only a 10-15 dollar cab ride into the center. That's going to be far cheaper and way faster than dropping it off two hours away in Sienna and buying two train tickets. It's also faster, cheaper, and far less hassle that going out to the airport to drop off a rental car.

Your only other alternative is, when you pick up your car, ask them for a map and to outline how you can get there, or have them report your car to the police, then you won't have to worry. For example, if someone is staying at a hotel in the center and they have to drive through the ZTL to get there, you just ask the hotel to report your license plate number to the police the day before, and you can drive through that particular ZTL.

So these are all good options, and there is nothing wrong with dropping it off at Hertz, asking them to call you a cab, and paying 10-15 dollars for you peace of mind.

Thanks for the information. We booked the car to be returned at the Hertz on Via Del Sansovino and then we'll take a cab to our hotel from there.

But just to clarify, it looks like this location is completely outside of any ZTL as far as I could tell from the map on the Florence website so it shouldn't be an issue at all.
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 8:51 am
  #68  
 
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Originally Posted by detroit1010
Thanks for the information. We booked the car to be returned at the Hertz on Via Del Sansovino and then we'll take a cab to our hotel from there.

But just to clarify, it looks like this location is completely outside of any ZTL as far as I could tell from the map on the Florence website so it shouldn't be an issue at all.
I'm going to repeat this because it's important - call ahead to make sure they're open!
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 12:39 pm
  #69  
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Originally Posted by PWMTrav
I'm going to repeat this because it's important - call ahead to make sure they're open!
We will be returning it on a Wednesday mid-morning. Is there any reason to believe they won't be open?

According to their website they open at 8:30AM:

https://www.hertz.it/p/noleggio-auto...-del-sansovino
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Old Jan 23, 2016, 5:51 pm
  #70  
 
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Originally Posted by PWMTrav
I'm going to repeat this because it's important - call ahead to make sure they're open!
Originally Posted by detroit1010
We will be returning it on a Wednesday mid-morning. Is there any reason to believe they won't be open?

According to their website they open at 8:30AM:

https://www.hertz.it/p/noleggio-auto...-del-sansovino
I'd have to agree, but partially - just plan for things to not work very well, then you won't be upset when they don't. That's kind of how Italy works.

Just because they say they will be open when you call them, don't count on it.

I don't follow my own advice very well. I've posted numerous times, "make sure you get a reservation to your restaurant." From Rome, coming to Torino, I know the place in Torino for the best risotto.

Torino is famous for restaurants, but the best places, just as throughout Italy, are somewhat unknown. No stars, but unbelievable. It is absolutely not true that in Italy people mainly eat pasta. In the North from Venice, then increasingly as you go west until you are in Torino, which is almost on the border of France and Switzerland, it changes to more and more to rice. The reason is that most of the central plain is the Po Valley. You cannot grow olives on a plain as flat as Kansas. You can raise cows, so there is a lot of meat in the center, but you can also cultivate rice very well in those plains, so that is what is often eaten.

The place to eat the best risotto in Torino is Il Vicolo. No stars, in a borderline neighborhood, but just a few blocks from the most desirable areas, and almost impossible to get into. You just can't get risotto like here. You will never forget it.

I had a lot to do in Rome last week, and didn't make a reservation. This morning I tried to during lunch hour, because usually the same day is OK, and being in January, I thought it would be OK, but I forgot there is no lunch on Saturday, so I couldn't get through. When I did, an hour before they opened at 8PM, it wasn't possible. They were full. I asked if I could come now, late, any hour, and they said they are overbooked.

I went over there 15 minutes after they opened and asked if there was a cancellation or a no-show, and they said no, impossible. I asked if I could come back later to see if there was a no-show, and they said maybe after 10 PM. I went at 10 PM, and the place was still packed, but there had been a cancelation, and we got in.

You might show up at Hertz, and the people are down the block having a coffee, are on "cigarette break," or they went home for lunch and just locked up for a while. Don't count on anything working in Italy as it does in the USA.

I had a big final exam to take on Friday but I had to be in Torino today. I arranged to do it over the internet, which I planned to do on the train on the way to Florence, which has free WiFi, taking a pause to see friends, then finishing it within the allotted 8 hours on the train to Torino. I was not able to get the internet to work on either train. i missed the test. I was able to reschedule it for tomorrow, Sunday, while I'll be on the train from Torino to Venice, and I cross my fingers that things will actually work, but i don't expect it to.

When I got to my hotel in Torino, probably the most expensive in the city, I opened the window, but then it wouldn't close, and it's freezing here. I went to the front desk to get help, and they came up but couldn't fix it, so we went downstairs and they gave me the key to another room. I went back upstairs and the key to the new room wouldn't work. I went back downstairs to the desk and they sent up a guy who also couldn't open the door. On the third try, I finally got a third room where I could get in, and everything worked - except for the WiFi.

Beppe Severignini is probably, no is, the most famous journalist in Italy, mostly writing about the culture. He wrote a famous article about how Italy is the only place on earth that can have you wanting to suicidally throw yourself off of a bridge one minute, then having you think that you are in heaven ten minutes later.
http://www.beppesevergnini.com

Don't throw yourself over the bridge about the rental car. You are in Italy. Expect it to not work, then you'll be happy when it all works out.

I have returned cars in Italy for over 20 years, from the furthest points south, to all the way up north, and they are often closed. The rental car agencies are prepared for that. They have a lockbox on the outside that you can throw your keys and paperwork into. It's normal day to day business. It's how it's done. They close a lot.

They may be open around 8:30 AM but they will surely close for lunch. No one, except maybe at the airport, will stay open all day without a break. People also have to return a rental car at night. You just do it, it is the norm. Find a place to park. If there is no place, put the car on the sidewalk in front of Hertz, drop the keys in the slot, and go. It's normal.

If you are worried about them making a false claim about damage the only place that ever happened to me was in Manhattan, New York City, and after disputing it, I didn't have to pay. If that is a concern, use your phone and take a dated picture of all four sides of the car and if you get an unexpected bill, have your credit card company put a stop on it and let them deal with it.

But really, I can't even imagine that happening. People still think of Italy as a place where someone will come driving by on a Vespa with a scissors to snatch your purse while you are walking on the sidewalk. That doesn't happen anymore.

The closest incident I've had in recent years was tonight. I had to go to a pharmacy in Torino. I've posted here, "don't go near the train station in any city in Italy for any longer than you have to, and don't stay at a hotel there." The only open pharmacy was on a corner almost across the street from the train station. The pharmacy was the only one I've ever seen in Torino where you have stand outside andnput your money into a slot and they put the medication back through it, like a 7-Eleven in a bad neighborhood in the US.

While waiting for the prescription to be filled a guy got out of a station wagon and came up to me and to the woman I was with (an American, doesn't speak a word of italian), and asked in very broken english, "Is the pharmacy open?" Before I could brush him off she responded with a big smile, "Yes, it is open!" Obviously it was open. Open pharmacies all over Italy have a big green cruciate sign outside that indicates that they are open. When they are closed the sign indicates that it is closed, or it turns to red, or the sign is turned off. Plus, it was obviously open, as we were there speaking to the pharmacist through the slotted window.

The man went back to the car where there were three other men. I suggested that she shouldn't do that, the guy could obviously see that the pharmacy was open. I said to prove it, let's just turn the corner and walk down this one-way street, then circle back against traffic, to the pharmacy. I said "watch, nobody is going to come out of that car and go to the pharmacy," they'll be after us. We went to the corner turned, and walked down the one way street for 20 yards, then did an about face and headed back. Just then the car started coming down the narrow one way street towards us, where they passed us with a surprised look on their face, but it was too late. And of course, there was nobody waiting at the pharmacy window.

Once the car went far enough down the one way street about 50 yards we did a 180 degree and went back down the street and turned into the risotto place, which is about catty corner, maybe 100-150 yards and down the alley from the train station. But, it was unbelievable. Indescribable. Risotto, wine, dessert crepe, for less than 40 euros, but you can't get better tasting risotto anywhere, at any price.

When you pick up the car, just ask, "What do i do if I return late at night, or when the place is closed?" They'll tell you, "just put the key in the slot." Park anywhere. If you are worried, take photos. Don't pay cash, put it on a credit card. Credit cards are there for you to be able to dispute things, and you can't dispute a photo of an undamaged car with a dated photo, anymore than you can dispute a dated and timed photo of you crossing into the ZTL.

Last edited by Perche; Jan 24, 2016 at 1:56 am
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Old Jan 24, 2016, 12:52 pm
  #71  
 
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Originally Posted by Perche
...He wrote a famous article about how Italy is the only place on earth that can have you wanting to suicidally throw yourself off of a bridge one minute, then having you think that you are in heaven ten minutes later...
Having lived in both Greece and Italy, I must say that Greece beats Italy by about 5 minutes!
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Old Feb 17, 2016, 5:26 pm
  #72  
 
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I don't have any knowledge to pass on about this trip, except that my fiance and I are planning a very similar one for 16 days at the end of May and all of the knowledge and tips shared by everyone has been extremely valuable. Thank you so much for taking the time and engaging in meaningful conversation! Much appreciated.
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Old Feb 18, 2016, 1:38 pm
  #73  
 
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After planning and completing a similar trip last August for our Honeymoon (about two and a half weeks in Italy, plus a week in Switzerland), probably the best thing you can do here is listen to Perche's advice!

We (early 30s, active) executed a very similar trip (from Syracuse, NY), and Ill give you some insights from it:

Car rental: We went with Hertz (rented in Pisa, dropped off in Chianciamo Terme). Be prepared for the rental to cost more than originally qouted (taxes, fees, etc). Also, GET THE WIFI TRANSMITTER! I cannot stress how great that was, and all to my wife's insistence! It was maybe $150 for the 6 days we drove, but with smartphones we were able to look up directions, numbers, hours, etc. Definitely worthwhile. Also, with the drop off... be certain to look up the dropoff location if the office just happens to be closed. I dropped off on a sunday, couldnt find the lot, and ended up parking in the street right in front of the office and leaving the car there, and a voicemail at the office.

Im sure you have your lodging booked already, but we used Trip Advisor to find info and then redirected to the rentals website to make our reservations. We ended up not using hotels really- a mix of "hostels" and private villas, which was cheaper anyways. AirBnB and VRBO provide similar results.

Venice- we had two nights and 3 very full days here. Caught a mass at San Marco, which was terrific. Wandered into the San Marco Piazza around midnight... and it was almost empty. The next day it was too crowded. We stayed in the Castello area, and it was phenomenal for walking. We really just stumbled around into things in Venice- I highly recommend visiting the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari museum. Amazing pieces located in there- especially the Tomb of the Doge Pesaro by Melchior Barthel (i think?) (the Moorish slaves detail is amazing). We ended up just grabbing a pizza one night in the Ospedalle area (Pizzeria alla Strega) and while waiting in the street noticed similar sculptures against a closed church. We were super excited to find things like this all through Venice.

Tuscany-oh Tuscany! Florence is one of my favorite places- be sure to get out to the Piazza del Michaelangelo- the views are not to be missed. There is too much to say about Florence, but at least give it time to walk around for a day.

Siena- my views on Siena may be skewed... but I loved it. Granted, we stumbled in there on a last minute decision, the day before Il Palio, so everything was decked out for the race, but it was fantastic to walk through the decked out "Contrada" and see all the locals sitting down for their neighborhood meals to celebrate the race. Just a beautiful city, but thats skewed.

Rural-ish Tuscany- We stayed 5 nights outside of Montepulciano. Its a very cute town, but very touristy. If you go here, go to Rameria Mazzetti, the Coppersmith. Very friendly, surprisingly good prices for the cookware. Good food and wine, but honestly I preferred the Montalcino more. We rented bikes in the Pienza area and rode around for the day- getting lost along the way- and it was really fun, although tiring. The most memorable thing though, and I saw it mentioned earlier, was dinner at Dario Cecchini's place- Officina Della Bistecca. Its in Panzano in Chianti. 50 euros per person for a phenomenal meat dinner and all you can drink chianti. One of the best eating experiences I've ever had.

It looks like you decided 3 nights each place- in your Amalfi coast portion, I recommend checking out the ferry schedule asap. We stayed in Positano, which was nice, but I wished to get to the town of Amalfi, but did not. Positano has a nice club (Rada) that has a great view looking out- highly recommended if you can afford the drinks...$25 for Hendricks tonic? sheesh! Conversely, there is a little bar hut at the dock that had 2 euro beers. We liked that just as much. We also did Naples, and visited Pompeii. Unbelievably crowded, but I would go back there in a heartbeat if I had the chance. Naples felt real, even in the more touristy areas. Get a pizza there- the four I ate in two days were all amazing.

In all, my highest recommendations are these: with the car, get the wifi thing for your directions. Dont plan every single moment, because you will find something that looks phenomenal. In the cities, just walk around- you're bound to find something you love.

Also, bringing and drinking your own wine or beer on the train is quite enjoyable.

Last edited by Akcaver; Feb 19, 2016 at 2:59 pm
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Old Mar 5, 2016, 7:35 am
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Akcaver
Also, GET THE WIFI TRANSMITTER! I cannot stress how great that was, and all to my wife's insistence! It was maybe $150 for the 6 days we drove, but with smartphones we were able to look up directions, numbers, hours, etc. Definitely worthwhile.
First of all thanks for all of the information and tips.

With regards to the wifi transmitter - that seems quite pricy! It seems more economical to just get an international data plan and use our phones. Unless there's poor service although this is doubtful as we won't be too far "off the map".

Originally Posted by Akcaver
Also, with the drop off... be certain to look up the dropoff location if the office just happens to be closed. I dropped off on a sunday, couldnt find the lot, and ended up parking in the street right in front of the office and leaving the car there, and a voicemail at the office.
As I previously said, we will be dropping off the car on a weekday at regular hours. That being said, it seems like that still doesn't guarantee someone will be there. Where did you find the rental company drop off location? I just checked the website and didn't see any mention of it. Just want to be prepared in case in comes to that...
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Old Mar 5, 2016, 8:28 pm
  #75  
 
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If you have unlocked smartphones, stop in at a TIM store and get an activated SIM. It'll be ~40 euro for the SIM, activation, probably 2 gigs of data for the month, and ~15 euro residual credit for calls and texts. The basic plan is by the minute/text, but it'll be enough to call for reservations and such. But your phone needs to be unlocked.
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