Italy in November
May 6, 2015, 7:52 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SEA
Posts: 3,955
Italy in November
My turn to ask a question!
I managed to grab some award space in mid-November (7th to the 16th) so we're planning to head over to Florence. Since we have a small child (she'll be 3, and it'll be her second time there) I booked an apartment for the entire stretch. We know the city itself pretty well, but I've never been anywhere in Italy in November - I figure there must be something seasonal that we shouldn't miss.
If anyone else has, any recommendations on things we might try to do as far as events and festivals go? We're open to an overnight trip or two to another city if there's something good going on. I know it tends to be rainy in November, but coming from Maine, 50-60 degrees and rainy actually sounds like an above average day anyhow.
To start, I hear Florence has an olive oil festival somewhere around that time. San Miniato has a truffle festival the last few weekends of November (which should align with our last weekend there, Nov 15/16). Pisa also has La Fabbrica di Babbo Natale somewhere mid-month as well. I've never been to any of these, but does anyone else have experience or suggestions?
I managed to grab some award space in mid-November (7th to the 16th) so we're planning to head over to Florence. Since we have a small child (she'll be 3, and it'll be her second time there) I booked an apartment for the entire stretch. We know the city itself pretty well, but I've never been anywhere in Italy in November - I figure there must be something seasonal that we shouldn't miss.
If anyone else has, any recommendations on things we might try to do as far as events and festivals go? We're open to an overnight trip or two to another city if there's something good going on. I know it tends to be rainy in November, but coming from Maine, 50-60 degrees and rainy actually sounds like an above average day anyhow.
To start, I hear Florence has an olive oil festival somewhere around that time. San Miniato has a truffle festival the last few weekends of November (which should align with our last weekend there, Nov 15/16). Pisa also has La Fabbrica di Babbo Natale somewhere mid-month as well. I've never been to any of these, but does anyone else have experience or suggestions?
May 6, 2015, 9:09 pm
#2
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
That area has not been my main area to visit, you know it better than I do. In general, November is a perfect time to visit. The weather is still decent, you can walk into museums without lines, the prices are much lower, and it's easier to get into restaurants. November and May are my favorite times. But in November, there are not a lot of festivals. It's sort of the rest between summer/fall harvest festivals, and the Christmas season.
The big exception of course, is truffle festivals in Piedmonte, mainly in Alba, and in San Miniato, Tuscany. I've been in Alba. Lots of food and wine stands. Don't plan on driving. The White Piedmontese tartufi are of course, ten times better than the black Tuscan truffles. But I suspect San Miniato would be a lot of fun too.
Olive oil in Italy this year is the worst in many, many years, due to an insect blight. The EU is even trying to get whole regions in Italy to burn down their olive groves to keep it from spreading. Many small, traditional places will go out of business, and prices for Italian olive oil next year are going to skyrocket. This might be seen as a reason to support the festivals, but much of the Italian olive oil growers are in a state of cataclysmic shock.
Fabbrica da Babo Natale, or Santa Clauses workshop, to me, is a little bit of a problem. Christmas is far less commercialized in Italy than in the USA. It's extremely unusual to have a place in Italy promoting Christmas in November. That said, it seems like a fun place with clowns, marionettes, elves, Santas, but I'm ambiguous about commercializing Christmas that way in November. It's so non-Italian. But it does look like fun for a kid. I'm just not sure if a 3 year old is old enough to find it fun.
So, I'd be surprised if you find a lot in the way of November festivals. They're mostly local and religious, like Della Salute in Venice, etc. I'm sure you know the other nice day trips outside of the usual Siena, San Gemignano, etc., such as Lucca, or going to the Saturnia Thermal Hot Springs in Maremma.
With nine days in non-touristy season, I'd just chill out and live Italian for awhile, and not worry about what I visit. It's such a perfect time, when Italy is Italy, and not a tourist theme park. Maybe take a few cooking classes, then cook in the apartment. The only thing that would interest me would be the truffle festival. There's a chocolate festival in Torino, but its not worth traveling the distance. I'd stay put and just be Fiorentine for nine days. Maybe a day trip to San Miniato for truffles, and that would be it.
I have some recommended reading for you as a Firenzophile. Diana Hales, a Californian who decided to learn Italian, moved there, and wrote an extraordinary book that weaves Italian history and culture together into the language, and she became an expert in it. The book had such an impact the the Italian government made her something like when the British government made Elton John or Paul McCartney, "Sir." They gave her a title.
She recently wrote a book about Mona Lisa, which she basically used as a way to explore the history and secrets of Florence. She went to the house where she lived in Altrarno, interviewed the current occupants of that apartment, gained special access to the city archives which she can read, and really fleshes it out. It's not really about Mona Lisa, it is about Florence. Amazon rated it as one of the best books of 2014 in its category. You might find it interesting. http://monalisabook.com
The big exception of course, is truffle festivals in Piedmonte, mainly in Alba, and in San Miniato, Tuscany. I've been in Alba. Lots of food and wine stands. Don't plan on driving. The White Piedmontese tartufi are of course, ten times better than the black Tuscan truffles. But I suspect San Miniato would be a lot of fun too.
Olive oil in Italy this year is the worst in many, many years, due to an insect blight. The EU is even trying to get whole regions in Italy to burn down their olive groves to keep it from spreading. Many small, traditional places will go out of business, and prices for Italian olive oil next year are going to skyrocket. This might be seen as a reason to support the festivals, but much of the Italian olive oil growers are in a state of cataclysmic shock.
Fabbrica da Babo Natale, or Santa Clauses workshop, to me, is a little bit of a problem. Christmas is far less commercialized in Italy than in the USA. It's extremely unusual to have a place in Italy promoting Christmas in November. That said, it seems like a fun place with clowns, marionettes, elves, Santas, but I'm ambiguous about commercializing Christmas that way in November. It's so non-Italian. But it does look like fun for a kid. I'm just not sure if a 3 year old is old enough to find it fun.
So, I'd be surprised if you find a lot in the way of November festivals. They're mostly local and religious, like Della Salute in Venice, etc. I'm sure you know the other nice day trips outside of the usual Siena, San Gemignano, etc., such as Lucca, or going to the Saturnia Thermal Hot Springs in Maremma.
With nine days in non-touristy season, I'd just chill out and live Italian for awhile, and not worry about what I visit. It's such a perfect time, when Italy is Italy, and not a tourist theme park. Maybe take a few cooking classes, then cook in the apartment. The only thing that would interest me would be the truffle festival. There's a chocolate festival in Torino, but its not worth traveling the distance. I'd stay put and just be Fiorentine for nine days. Maybe a day trip to San Miniato for truffles, and that would be it.
I have some recommended reading for you as a Firenzophile. Diana Hales, a Californian who decided to learn Italian, moved there, and wrote an extraordinary book that weaves Italian history and culture together into the language, and she became an expert in it. The book had such an impact the the Italian government made her something like when the British government made Elton John or Paul McCartney, "Sir." They gave her a title.
She recently wrote a book about Mona Lisa, which she basically used as a way to explore the history and secrets of Florence. She went to the house where she lived in Altrarno, interviewed the current occupants of that apartment, gained special access to the city archives which she can read, and really fleshes it out. It's not really about Mona Lisa, it is about Florence. Amazon rated it as one of the best books of 2014 in its category. You might find it interesting. http://monalisabook.com
Last edited by Perche; May 7, 2015 at 5:56 am
May 7, 2015, 10:35 am
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SEA
Posts: 3,955
That area has not been my main area to visit, you know it better than I do. In general, November is a perfect time to visit. The weather is still decent, you can walk into museums without lines, the prices are much lower, and it's easier to get into restaurants. November and May are my favorite times. But in November, there are not a lot of festivals. It's sort of the rest between summer/fall harvest festivals, and the Christmas season.
The big exception of course, is truffle festivals in Piedmonte, mainly in Alba, and in San Miniato, Tuscany. I've been in Alba. Lots of food and wine stands. Don't plan on driving. The White Piedmontese tartufi are of course, ten times better than the black Tuscan truffles. But I suspect San Miniato would be a lot of fun too.
The big exception of course, is truffle festivals in Piedmonte, mainly in Alba, and in San Miniato, Tuscany. I've been in Alba. Lots of food and wine stands. Don't plan on driving. The White Piedmontese tartufi are of course, ten times better than the black Tuscan truffles. But I suspect San Miniato would be a lot of fun too.
We'll probably try to get to San Miniato for the day - they're digging up white truffles there, probably not as good as those further north, but it'll be something to experience as much as anything else.
Olive oil in Italy this year is the worst in many, many years, due to an insect blight. The EU is even trying to get whole regions in Italy to burn down their olive groves to keep it from spreading. Many small, traditional places will go out of business, and prices for Italian olive oil next year are going to skyrocket. This might be seen as a reason to support the festivals, but much of the Italian olive oil growers are in a state of cataclysmic shock.
Fabbrica da Babo Natale, or Santa Clauses workshop, to me, is a little bit of a problem. Christmas is far less commercialized in Italy than in the USA. It's extremely unusual to have a place in Italy promoting Christmas in November. That said, it seems like a fun place with clowns, marionettes, elves, Santas, but I'm ambiguous about commercializing Christmas that way in November. It's so non-Italian. But it does look like fun for a kid. I'm just not sure if a 3 year old is old enough to find it fun.
With nine days in non-touristy season, I'd just chill out and live Italian for awhile, and not worry about what I visit. It's such a perfect time, when Italy is Italy, and not a tourist theme park. Maybe take a few cooking classes, then cook in the apartment. The only thing that would interest me would be the truffle festival. There's a chocolate festival in Torino, but its not worth traveling the distance. I'd stay put and just be Fiorentine for nine days. Maybe a day trip to San Miniato for truffles, and that would be it.
I'm still kicking around the idea of taking the train to Venice one morning and coming back the following day - one night when most of the tourists are gone might be fun. Just get lost for a bit. It'd be the tail end of the Biennale, though, which might bring some crowds. The schedule that month seems heavy on art exhibits, which aren't something I'm inclined to do with a 3 year old. Alternatively, we might go the opposite direction to Rome for a day/night and see some friends and distant relatives if they're not doing anything.
I have some recommended reading for you as a Firenzophile. Diana Hales, a Californian who decided to learn Italian, moved there, and wrote an extraordinary book that weaves Italian history and culture together into the language, and she became an expert in it. The book had such an impact the the Italian government made her something like when the British government made Elton John or Paul McCartney, "Sir." They gave her a title.
She recently wrote a book about Mona Lisa, which she basically used as a way to explore the history and secrets of Florence. She went to the house where she lived in Altrarno, interviewed the current occupants of that apartment, gained special access to the city archives which she can read, and really fleshes it out. It's not really about Mona Lisa, it is about Florence. Amazon rated it as one of the best books of 2014 in its category. You might find it interesting. http://monalisabook.com
She recently wrote a book about Mona Lisa, which she basically used as a way to explore the history and secrets of Florence. She went to the house where she lived in Altrarno, interviewed the current occupants of that apartment, gained special access to the city archives which she can read, and really fleshes it out. It's not really about Mona Lisa, it is about Florence. Amazon rated it as one of the best books of 2014 in its category. You might find it interesting. http://monalisabook.com
May 7, 2015, 7:13 pm
#4
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Heraklion, Greece
Posts: 7,567
Quote:
Olive oil in Italy this year is the worst in many, many years, due to an insect blight. The EU is even trying to get whole regions in Italy to burn down their olive groves to keep it from spreading. Many small, traditional places will go out of business, and prices for Italian olive oil next year are going to skyrocket. This might be seen as a reason to support the festivals, but much of the Italian olive oil growers are in a state of cataclysmic shock.
Olive oil in Italy this year is the worst in many, many years, due to an insect blight. The EU is even trying to get whole regions in Italy to burn down their olive groves to keep it from spreading. Many small, traditional places will go out of business, and prices for Italian olive oil next year are going to skyrocket. This might be seen as a reason to support the festivals, but much of the Italian olive oil growers are in a state of cataclysmic shock.
May 8, 2015, 9:26 am
#6
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
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Posts: 2,881
May 9, 2015, 7:59 am
#9
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Heraklion, Greece
Posts: 7,567
The problem mostly/still affects the area of the Salento (the "heel"). Concerning low yields elsewhere, in addition to the "usual" olive fly infestations, you should know that olive trees normally give a good yield every second year! For example, the trees in my garden produced 25 litres of oil four years ago, 320 litres the year after, then 35 two years ago, and finally 290 litres last year. Olive growers in all countries in the olive growing zones have the tendency to always complain: In bad years because the yield is too low and in good years because the prices go down.
May 9, 2015, 9:09 am
#10
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
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Posts: 2,881
Anyone interested in olive oil should read Tom Mueller's New Yorker magazine articles, and if they find them compelling, go on to read his book. The New Yorker is an elite magazine. Only 2-3% of articles submitted get published. Mueller's articles, which then led to a book, pulled the lid off of the Italian olive oil problem.
I've mentioned that a lot of the food served in restaurants in Italy in the tourist cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice is frozen food cooked in a microwave. You have to have the same care in Italy with olive oil. It is very expensive to produce. When ripe, it has to be picked right away. When picked it has to be pressed that day, not the following day, or else it oxidizes. It has to be stored correctly. Just like a lot of things in Italy, e.g., MOSE, EXPO, etc. There is intense corruption in this industry.
Mueller found that most Italian extra virgin olive oil is palm, coconut, soy, hazelnut, Tunisian, Moroccan, or other sub-standard olives smuggled into Italy in tanker trucks like the trucks that fill up gas stations in the USA, that is then sold as premium extra virgin Italian olive oil. And it's not healthy.
Just like the tourists eating frozen food trucked in from Germany and cooked in a microwave at a trattoria next to the Fountain of Trevi gush about how this is the best Italian food they've ever had in their life, people tend to not notice the difference with olive oil. Olive oil in Italy is a huge scandal. Most of it has such a low quality that it is referred to as lampante, or oil that should only be used as fuel for a lamp. It is very unhealthy. A european union investigation concluded that the profits from fake Italian olive oil are on par with the profits from the cocaine trafficking, but with none of the risks of going to jail.
It is such a problem that the University of California at Davis Olive Oil Research Center, started by Robert Mondavi, staffed by major professors from Italy, recommend not buying it unless you educate yourself first: http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu/about.
You can get good Italian olive oil in the USA and in Italy, but buyer beware. More often than not you are putting lamp oil on your salad. And now with the insect blight that has been blamed on these fraudsters, there will be even more serious problems with Italian olive oil going forward. Mueller article:
http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/20...ppery-business
http://www.newyorker.com/books/page-...oils-dark-side
http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/09/your...virginity.html
http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Virginit...ds=tom+mueller
I've mentioned that a lot of the food served in restaurants in Italy in the tourist cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice is frozen food cooked in a microwave. You have to have the same care in Italy with olive oil. It is very expensive to produce. When ripe, it has to be picked right away. When picked it has to be pressed that day, not the following day, or else it oxidizes. It has to be stored correctly. Just like a lot of things in Italy, e.g., MOSE, EXPO, etc. There is intense corruption in this industry.
Mueller found that most Italian extra virgin olive oil is palm, coconut, soy, hazelnut, Tunisian, Moroccan, or other sub-standard olives smuggled into Italy in tanker trucks like the trucks that fill up gas stations in the USA, that is then sold as premium extra virgin Italian olive oil. And it's not healthy.
Just like the tourists eating frozen food trucked in from Germany and cooked in a microwave at a trattoria next to the Fountain of Trevi gush about how this is the best Italian food they've ever had in their life, people tend to not notice the difference with olive oil. Olive oil in Italy is a huge scandal. Most of it has such a low quality that it is referred to as lampante, or oil that should only be used as fuel for a lamp. It is very unhealthy. A european union investigation concluded that the profits from fake Italian olive oil are on par with the profits from the cocaine trafficking, but with none of the risks of going to jail.
It is such a problem that the University of California at Davis Olive Oil Research Center, started by Robert Mondavi, staffed by major professors from Italy, recommend not buying it unless you educate yourself first: http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu/about.
You can get good Italian olive oil in the USA and in Italy, but buyer beware. More often than not you are putting lamp oil on your salad. And now with the insect blight that has been blamed on these fraudsters, there will be even more serious problems with Italian olive oil going forward. Mueller article:
http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/20...ppery-business
http://www.newyorker.com/books/page-...oils-dark-side
http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/09/your...virginity.html
http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Virginit...ds=tom+mueller
May 9, 2015, 11:58 am
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SEA
Posts: 3,955
Yeah, I've actually taken to buying my olive oil from a local Greek supplier - grown on their land in Greece, brought over in barrels and bottled here in Maine. Who knows, I could be getting screwed and not knowing it, but the stuff tastes good to me and the family that run the business seem like good folks as well. At ~50 per liter, I'm not exactly buying a lot of it though 
Website for anyone interested. http://www.lakoniagreekproducts.com/
Website for anyone interested. http://www.lakoniagreekproducts.com/
Aug 19, 2015, 10:58 am
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SEA
Posts: 3,955
I figure I'd update my own thread. There is now a National Ecclesiastical (Catholic) Convention in Florence for 9-13 November, complete with a Papal visit. This coincides with my planned trip, and I'm considering moving it since it's not going to be the quiet, offseason trip to Florence that we had planned. At least, probably not from our current planned apartment in Piazza del Duomo If you were considering Florence this November, be aware of this event and whether it will impact you.
If you were considering Florence this November, be aware of this event and whether it will impact you.