Venice - Restaurants?
Mar 20, 2015, 4:38 pm
#3
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Anywhere I don't have a stamp in my passport
Posts: 1
Part of the unveiling of Venice is letting yourself get lost without expectations and plans. The same holds true for restaurants there too. My best advise is avoid any restaurants directly on the main routes, especially if they have an "American" menu- run away. Try looking for tiny restaurants in back alleys on tiny streets.
Having said that, if you're looking for restaurant names there is a fantastic one near a tiny bridge, I'll have to dig out the business card. It wasn't fancy, but it was pure comfort food, it was cozy inside and more importantly there was a line of locals eating there- well worth it.
Having said that, if you're looking for restaurant names there is a fantastic one near a tiny bridge, I'll have to dig out the business card. It wasn't fancy, but it was pure comfort food, it was cozy inside and more importantly there was a line of locals eating there- well worth it.
Mar 21, 2015, 9:31 am
#4
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
A lot depends on where you are staying. For example, La Zucca is an excellent restaurant, but it is pretty near the train station, which is a place you are probably not staying near, hopefully. For a family of 5 if you are staying near San Marco, which is almost as bad as staying near the train station, you would need to take a vaporetto to and from La Zucca, at a cost of 35 euros each way, unless your three young ones (I assume they are your children) are up for a long walk over many, many bridges, and constantly being lost.
As Sircling_the-Globe said, the best thing about Venice is getting lost. If I were bringing three kids, I'd just eat cicchetti, and you can google that, then go out with the wife to a nice restaurant, and there are plenty of those. The most remarkable thing about Venice is how safe it is. Just go into that darkest ally, where you almost have to walk sideways to get in. No matter how dark and spooky, there is no crime. Just go deeper and deeper, and find a place where the locals are. Go there. Venice is small, and even when you are lost, you are still going to be near your hotel, if only you can find it.
I'm not a believer in eating where the locals eat. You can go to a neighborhood diner in Queens New York, where the locals eat. It doesn't mean that you are getting to eat great food. However, in Italy where the food is so bad because it is catered to tourists unless you know where to go, I would never consider eating at a restaurant anywhere near the Piazza San Marco or the Rialto Bridge, and would follow the locals. There are a couple of superb restaurants near San Marco and Rialto, some of the best food in Italy, but really, really pricey, and not a place to take kids.
See San Marco and Rialto when it is very early or very late, then get away from there, and do what Sircling the Globe said. Get lost in Venice The further away you get from San Marco, the better.
It has been said that there are two types of travelers to Venice. The first type shows up for a half a day on a cruise ship and spends half a day, or a day and a half, and makes a bee-line to where they want to take photos, as in Piazza San Marco, Rialto Bridge, and the Doge's Palace. Then they eat near there. Then they get home and post on TripAdvisor how much Venice is the worst place, including the fact that the hotel breakfast was terrible and only consisted of a dry croissant, with no butter, and a tiny cup of coffee. No pancakes, and no omelets.
The other type of traveler to Venice realizes that since there are no streets, unlike Rome, a modern city where the Colisseum is one big traffic circle roundabout, nothing has changed in Venice for centuries. If it wasn't for electricity and different style of clothing you could walk around the corner and you wouldn't be surprised to see Carlo DePonti and Wolfgang Mozart sitting at a coffee shop composing an opera over a cup of coffee. You would be sitting at the same table, in the same seats, with the same view, and you wouldn't even know what century you are in. Nothing changes in Venice, once you get out of the tourist center.
Venice today is like Venice hundreds of years ago, once you get out of the tourist areas. The first type of traveler thinks that you can see Venice in two days, eats junk food near San Marco Square or the Rialto Bridge, then buys souvenirs like fake masks and other things to take home, all made in China (no slur intended, just that the Italian labor force cannot compete).
The real traveler, not a tourist, goes into the back streets and says, "I don't want to have coffee in my hotel. I'm going to go down the street and have it in the corner bar with the Venetians who are going to work." It only costs one euro. Italians don't eat breakfast because they eat dinner very late the night before, and they are still full in the morning. Just a pastry is enough for breakfast. And if you have learned even five italian words and start speaking them the people in the corner bar will embrace you and try to practice their english with you. And then if you ask them about Venice they will tell you everything, all of its secrets, which they will let out day after day as you become more familiar to them. The typical tourist gets none of this experience, and then posts on TripAdvisor that you can see "all of Venice" in one day.
In your shoes, with three kids, I'd fill them up on cicchetti, then leave them at the hotel which is extremely safe in Venice, nobody looks after kids better than italians, and head to Al Covo with the wife.
As Sircling_the-Globe said, the best thing about Venice is getting lost. If I were bringing three kids, I'd just eat cicchetti, and you can google that, then go out with the wife to a nice restaurant, and there are plenty of those. The most remarkable thing about Venice is how safe it is. Just go into that darkest ally, where you almost have to walk sideways to get in. No matter how dark and spooky, there is no crime. Just go deeper and deeper, and find a place where the locals are. Go there. Venice is small, and even when you are lost, you are still going to be near your hotel, if only you can find it.
I'm not a believer in eating where the locals eat. You can go to a neighborhood diner in Queens New York, where the locals eat. It doesn't mean that you are getting to eat great food. However, in Italy where the food is so bad because it is catered to tourists unless you know where to go, I would never consider eating at a restaurant anywhere near the Piazza San Marco or the Rialto Bridge, and would follow the locals. There are a couple of superb restaurants near San Marco and Rialto, some of the best food in Italy, but really, really pricey, and not a place to take kids.
See San Marco and Rialto when it is very early or very late, then get away from there, and do what Sircling the Globe said. Get lost in Venice The further away you get from San Marco, the better.
It has been said that there are two types of travelers to Venice. The first type shows up for a half a day on a cruise ship and spends half a day, or a day and a half, and makes a bee-line to where they want to take photos, as in Piazza San Marco, Rialto Bridge, and the Doge's Palace. Then they eat near there. Then they get home and post on TripAdvisor how much Venice is the worst place, including the fact that the hotel breakfast was terrible and only consisted of a dry croissant, with no butter, and a tiny cup of coffee. No pancakes, and no omelets.
The other type of traveler to Venice realizes that since there are no streets, unlike Rome, a modern city where the Colisseum is one big traffic circle roundabout, nothing has changed in Venice for centuries. If it wasn't for electricity and different style of clothing you could walk around the corner and you wouldn't be surprised to see Carlo DePonti and Wolfgang Mozart sitting at a coffee shop composing an opera over a cup of coffee. You would be sitting at the same table, in the same seats, with the same view, and you wouldn't even know what century you are in. Nothing changes in Venice, once you get out of the tourist center.
Venice today is like Venice hundreds of years ago, once you get out of the tourist areas. The first type of traveler thinks that you can see Venice in two days, eats junk food near San Marco Square or the Rialto Bridge, then buys souvenirs like fake masks and other things to take home, all made in China (no slur intended, just that the Italian labor force cannot compete).
The real traveler, not a tourist, goes into the back streets and says, "I don't want to have coffee in my hotel. I'm going to go down the street and have it in the corner bar with the Venetians who are going to work." It only costs one euro. Italians don't eat breakfast because they eat dinner very late the night before, and they are still full in the morning. Just a pastry is enough for breakfast. And if you have learned even five italian words and start speaking them the people in the corner bar will embrace you and try to practice their english with you. And then if you ask them about Venice they will tell you everything, all of its secrets, which they will let out day after day as you become more familiar to them. The typical tourist gets none of this experience, and then posts on TripAdvisor that you can see "all of Venice" in one day.
In your shoes, with three kids, I'd fill them up on cicchetti, then leave them at the hotel which is extremely safe in Venice, nobody looks after kids better than italians, and head to Al Covo with the wife.
Last edited by Perche; Mar 21, 2015 at 9:37 am
Mar 21, 2015, 10:54 am
#5
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DCA
Programs: AA EXP; BoNVoY Tit LTP
Posts: 1,923
If it wasn't for electricity and different style of clothing you could walk around the corner and you wouldn't be surprised to see Carlo DePonti and Wolfgang Mozart sitting at a coffee shop composing an opera over a cup of coffee. You would be sitting at the same table, in the same seats, with the same view, and you wouldn't even know what century you are in. Nothing changes in Venice, once you get out of the tourist center. .
Mar 21, 2015, 3:50 pm
#6
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
You got it right! Sometimes, auto-fill and auto-correct are nightmares when it comes to expression in multiple languages. I'm glad you caught it!
Last edited by Perche; Mar 21, 2015 at 3:56 pm
Mar 22, 2015, 5:45 pm
#7
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 103
Is this nothing to be worried about or should I be reserving at a restaurant some time before arrival?
Thanks!
Mar 22, 2015, 8:31 pm
#8
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SEA
Posts: 3,959
When in doubt, the Michelin Guide is a good place to start:
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...-Venezia-Italy
If you filter for Bib Gourmand, you'll get the lower priced restaurants - none of them in Venice are cheap, though. I've eaten at Trattoria Alla Madonna, albeit 3 years ago, but it's in the current guide still and I can say that we had a nice meal. It's not super casual, but the dining rooms tend to have a good amount of background chatter, so I'd totally take kids here. You can make a reservation since your party is larger than 4, so that helps.
How old are your kids, and are they picky eaters? Italy in general is not a place to expect kids menus. Some places do have them, but my experience is that they're mostly tourist restaurants. Kids eating in Italy can go one of two ways - some places will just do what's on the menu, others will ask what your kids will eat and will figure something out.
As Perche said, cicchetti are also a good avenue. It's nice to walk around to grab small bites and glasses of wine. Definitely get out in the morning as he said - get your breakfast somewhere other than where you're sleeping. See If you can make a little conversation and get some recommendations for your next meal.
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...-Venezia-Italy
If you filter for Bib Gourmand, you'll get the lower priced restaurants - none of them in Venice are cheap, though. I've eaten at Trattoria Alla Madonna, albeit 3 years ago, but it's in the current guide still and I can say that we had a nice meal. It's not super casual, but the dining rooms tend to have a good amount of background chatter, so I'd totally take kids here. You can make a reservation since your party is larger than 4, so that helps.
How old are your kids, and are they picky eaters? Italy in general is not a place to expect kids menus. Some places do have them, but my experience is that they're mostly tourist restaurants. Kids eating in Italy can go one of two ways - some places will just do what's on the menu, others will ask what your kids will eat and will figure something out.
As Perche said, cicchetti are also a good avenue. It's nice to walk around to grab small bites and glasses of wine. Definitely get out in the morning as he said - get your breakfast somewhere other than where you're sleeping. See If you can make a little conversation and get some recommendations for your next meal.
Mar 23, 2015, 4:10 pm
#9
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Perche, I'm hoping you'll be able to clarify because I'm quite nervous with dinner plans in Venice because multiple people have told me that without reservations it's almost impossible to get seated.
Is this nothing to be worried about or should I be reserving at a restaurant some time before arrival?
Thanks!
Is this nothing to be worried about or should I be reserving at a restaurant some time before arrival?
Thanks!
Good restaurants are only usually open from noon two o'clock in the afternoon. They reopen from 7 or 8PM until 9 or 10. Italians eat slowly, so each table will generally have only one or two sittings per night. Since there may be only 15-20 tables, you can see that these places are going to be full if they serve great food. Unless you are lucky, you will need a reservation. At lunch you usually do not, but for dinner you do. This doesn't mean weeks or months in advice. If there are no big events a week, or even a day, or even a phone call or stop by the same morning and make a reservation. Same day walk ups to good restaurants are usually not successful. Most good restaurants have web sites, and you make the reservation by email.
Mar 24, 2015, 6:58 am
#10
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: south of WAS DC
Posts: 10,131
Perche, I'm hoping you'll be able to clarify because I'm quite nervous with dinner plans in Venice because multiple people have told me that without reservations it's almost impossible to get seated.
Is this nothing to be worried about or should I be reserving at a restaurant some time before arrival?
Thanks!
Is this nothing to be worried about or should I be reserving at a restaurant some time before arrival?
Thanks!
Mar 24, 2015, 8:13 am
#11
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PHL / NYC / PSA-BLQ
Programs: AA PPRO, Marriott/Hilton Gold, AMX-Plat, Global Entry
Posts: 3,124
Keep trying - to us, it is a brilliant meal.
Last edited by JMN57; Mar 24, 2015 at 8:35 am
Mar 24, 2015, 9:36 am
#12
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Main thing for the OP, all of the good restaurants require a reservation, or some very good luck. Any restaurant that doesn't, I'd be leery about eating there. I'd also be leery of any restaurant that stays open all day, any restaurant that has a menu in multiple languages, and any venetian restaurant serving lasagna, pizza, or steak florentine. Even the worst venetians restaurants won't have the gall to try to sell you fettuccine alfredo. Also, unless you really know the few good places, don't eat within 10-15 minutes walking distance from Piazza San Marco or the Rialto Bridge, or the train station.
Mar 24, 2015, 10:03 am
#13
Join Date: May 2011
Location: BOS
Programs: AA PLT, Marriott LTP
Posts: 493
Will be making our first ever trip to VCE next week. Thanks to reading Flyertalk and you all, we heard about and were able to get a reservation to Al Covo. Now we need to figure out where to eat the other 2 nights. You guys have me paranoid. Seems like unless you really know the restaurant scene, you're going to end up getting screwed with an expensive lousy meal. Walking around and finding a place that looks good is out of the question apparently. Too much pressure.
We are staying at the Bisanzio if someone has recommendations in that general area, I'd love to hear them.
We are staying at the Bisanzio if someone has recommendations in that general area, I'd love to hear them.
Mar 24, 2015, 10:46 am
#14
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Will be making our first ever trip to VCE next week. Thanks to reading Flyertalk and you all, we heard about and were able to get a reservation to Al Covo. Now we need to figure out where to eat the other 2 nights. You guys have me paranoid. Seems like unless you really know the restaurant scene, you're going to end up getting screwed with an expensive lousy meal. Walking around and finding a place that looks good is out of the question apparently. Too much pressure.
We are staying at the Bisanzio if someone has recommendations in that general area, I'd love to hear them.
We are staying at the Bisanzio if someone has recommendations in that general area, I'd love to hear them.
Going in the other direction, towards Piazza San Marco but not yet there, Il Ridotto is excellent. On another night you can walk straight out of the front door of Bisanzio until you get to the water. From there, make a left. Keep going for maybe ten minutes, over a few bridges until you get to Via Garibaldi. The only street in Venice big enough to earn the term Via. You can't miss it. It's a large, straight, long street. This is where venetians tend to live. You will not be in the touristy area of San Marco Square. Walk down Via Garibaldi to Il Nuovo Galleon, quite a way down, on your right. These three are relatively easy to find, meaning you will only be lost for a short while before you can get directed there. After walking down Garibaldi, I can't overstate how great it is to continue heading in the opposite direction from San Marco. Just find any alley way and go into it, to the neighborhood called Giardini. This is really ancient, ancient Venice. Still completely unspoiled. It's not your tourists Venice. No matter how dark and misty the alley, go into it. There's no crime there. You will see the real Venice. Explore the neighborhoods near Al Covo, going away from the water and away from San Marco. Also pretty unspoiled. Two blocks from Al Covo along the water and you are back in the San Marco morass, so I'd stay away from there.
Another choice near Bisanzio is Corte Sconta. You can't go wrong at any of these. Corte Sconta is also near, maybe five minutes from Al Covo, but a bit tricker to find. The key is to ask someone to direct you to the Arsenale, which is along the water front going towards Via Garibaldi. When you get to Arsenale, to in towards the statues of two lions and ask someone to direct you to Campo San Martino (It's 30-40 yards away, a straight shot. Facing away from the church on Campo San Martino there will be a little bridge in front of it. Go over the bridge, keep walking away from the church and make your second left. Corte Sconta will be right there. This is really serious, traditional Venice neighborhood in Castello district, like Giardini. No cruise shippers, not packs of people following a tour guide with a megaphone.
Final recommendation without sending you to hopelessly get lost, consider Alle Testiere. Also about 8-10 minutes from Bisanzio. Head to Campo Santa Maria Formosa, another one of Venice's native, non-touristy squares, just maybe 4-5 hundred yards from your hotel, but a little windy to get there so you will have to ask directions at a few shops. Once you get to the Campo there will be a huge church on your left. Go to the left of the church. There will be a small canal with two small bridges going across it. Take the second one, right next to a bar called Zanzibar, and just walk straight and look towards your left after 20 or so yards. The sign is small.
These are some really great places to eat, not that hard to get to. Do explore the neighborhoods around Nuovo Galleon and Corte Sconta, whether or not you eat there. That's the real Venice. After 9-9:30 PM, then you can check out Piazza San Marco. Remember, many good restaurants close on Monday because the fisherman don't work on Sunday so they can't get fresh seafood Monday morning, and they don't serve frozen, non-fresh seafood at good venetian restaurants. If they do have such a dish, by law they have to warn you on the menu. These four restaurants will all require a reservation, or great luck.
If you want to explore further away areas, and also if you want to learn more about the above restaurants you can look here: http://www.veneziaristoranti.it/eng-...ristoranti.php