So I've tentatively decided to redeem my AA miles for a flight to Prague and returning from Budapest at the end of this month. This is my first Central European trip, so I've been wading through the archives and travel guides. So much information to digest!

My current plan is to take 14 days, approximately in this fashion: 4 days Prague, 2 days Vienna, 2 days Bratislava, 4 days Budapest. All travel will be by train, or possibly hydrofoil, although that seems a bit overpriced. (If needed, I can extend the durations up to 21 days.)

Are these approximately the right number of days to spend in each city? And are there "must see" places outside of these major cities that may be en route, or nearby?

Finally, does anybody have experience with booking tickets for ballet/orchestra/opera in these cities?

Thanks in advance!

I've visited the opera in Vienna a few times. The State Opera offers standing room seats for a laughably low sum - Parterrestehplatz is located at the back of the stalls, in the first ring. When I did it, before the Euro, the standing room cost 20 schillings, while the person sitting right next to the standing room paid over 1,000 schillings. And right above you is the Royal Box. There's also standing room available at the back of the top tiers but these aren't as good.

The catch is that to get a good spot you need to queue very early - at lunchtime on the day of the performance. The locals were equipped with folding stools, rugs and thermoses. There's an excellent baker opposite the queue on the other side of the street - if you are with someone one of you can nip over to grab a snack. At 4 pm the door opens and the head of the queue moves to a corridor inside (the far end stays out in the cold though!) Once the final door opens an hour before the performance it's a matter of *running*. Once you have your ticket you will be packed into the standing room like sardines. There are rails to lean on which you will get if you are early - the last people in get to stand on the steps with no rail to lean on. Once everyone has been packed in you can mark your spot by tying a scarf to your rail and then walk around the opera house.

One warning: last time I was in Vienna was more than 10 years ago and I don't know if the procedure has changed.

Audrey

Vienna State Opera website: http://www.wiener-staatsoper.at (only in German). At the far right on the main page is a picture of the inside of the house - you can see where the good standing room is.

Current prices for standing room: Euro 3.50 for Parterre or Euro 2.00 for the top two tiers of the theatre, right at the sides.

The person sitting next to the Parterre standing room will have paid between 91 - 178 Euros.

I will be visiting Vienna, Prag and Budapest in October this year - if you get back before me please let me know if Vienna has changed, and what it's like in Budapest and Prague - I've never been to either city.

Audrey

For a stop between Prague and Vienna, I'm seriously considering Česk� Krumlov. By all accounts beautiful, it will add about 6 hours of travel time to the normally 4 hour Prague-Vienna trip. Anybody care to share if it's worth it?

Thanks for the info on the Vienna Opera. Unfortunately, my current plan won't get me into Vienna until July, when all of the operas are on break. From my research, it seems that the most expensive ticket at Prague's three opera houses is only EUR40, and the most expensive ticket in Budapest is EUR20. These prices are certainly cheap enough to save from wasting a half day in line.

Now I'm seriously reconsidering whether I should wait until September, since then I'd be able to catch a performance in all of the cities. Plus I wouldn't have to deal with the annoying summer tourist season. Indecision, indecision.

[This message has been edited by flightrisk (edited 06-03-2002).]

flightrisk

i dont know how much time you have but i can hardly imagin that 2 days are enough to visit vienna - especially if you count in that you arrive one day and leve the next
i would suggest you to sat between 3 and 4 days in my beautiful hometown. If you d' like i might try to help you planning your stay in vienna.
becouse of the railway - i have been in prague quite a few times in recent months and allways travelled by train - the direct train from prague to vienna takes around 4 h - maybe 3 1/2 - and its quite ok - time passes by quickly - at least it did on most of my rides. It makes harldly any sence to fly between the two cities as this would take much longer that the railway

sincerly
max

ps: if you would need any informatin about vienna i would be glad to help

I had the concierge at my PRG hotel get me a ballet ticket when I was there last December--it was Nutcracker season and tix were tight, but she caught a cancellation. I had the impression it's usually easier. There are tons of chamber music recitals that are hawked in front of the astrological clock by people carrying placards. I think 4 days there is just about right. FWIW, I was told that September in PRG still sees a lot of tourists. Haven't been to Budapest, and last time in Vienna was 1967, so I can't help you there. Have a great trip!

My mothers family is from Hungary and when we went to visit relatives in '87, the 2 hilights I remember were the Baths at the Gellert hotel and the flower gardens on Margitsziget or Margaret Island. There are many other tourist sites to see such as Fisherman's bastion and a number of museums, which are probably in your guide books. I was there in the summer before the Berlin wall came down later that year. I don't know how much things have changed since then. Hungary is known for it's baths though so you should at least take a look. Some are quite beautiful.

Thanks for the info, rfrost, CMW, and Lemon Ruski.

Lemon Ruski: I was just worried that Vienna is too grandiose and imposing of a city (and expensive), whereas the other cities would be more intimate. But, I haven't read the Vienna travel guides yet, so I don't know where I want to go yet!

I have some questions: Are there good concerts/ballets/etc. available in July, as I think in my current plan I will arrive on July 1, after the end of the concert season. And do you have good recommendations for where I should stay?

My plan for the length of stays did not include travel, I have 14 total days, so I was counting on 2 full days in Vienna. This is my temporary plan:

Days 1-5: Arrive noon, 4.5 days in Prague.
Days 6-8: Morning travel, 2.5 days in Vienna.
Days 9-10: Morning travel, 1.5 days in Bratislava.
Days 11-15: Morning travel, 3 full days + almost 2 half days in Budapest, afternoon departure.

According to Czech Rail schedules, the fastest trip on 1/7 is a 4.5 hour EC train at 7am and 11am. Am I missing the 3.5 hour train somehow?

rfrost: I've read that you shouldn't go to the concerts recommended by touts as they are typically scams.

CMW: Margitsziget sounds like a wonderful place for a break in the middle of the day from touring! I've also been recommended Esztergom and Szentendre as excellent side-trips from Budapest.

Thanks again, everyone, for all of the good advice!

[This message has been edited by flightrisk (edited 06-05-2002).]

You might check this website if your accomodations are not set in Hungary.

http://www.hotelonlinehungary.com/

I came across it yesterday when doing a search. I cannot vouch for the operator but it seems to have a number of hotels that include more than worldwide chains.

If you are going to do side trips you also might try Lake Balaton. That is the spot to be in the summer months. When we went to Hungary, we rented the apartment of my aunt's neighbors because they were at Balaton for the summer. The several hundred dollars we left them probably covered their rent for some time!

You might also check this auction.

http://www.skyauction.com/jsp/offer.jsp?OFFER_ID=690147

The accomodations are all outside of Budapest but might be easily had for $1 + $195 in taxes. $196 is not bad 7 night I don't think.

I hope you have a wonderful trip.

I agree with your assessment that prices are higher in Vienna.

FWIW, make sure you settle any bills in cafes with the waiter before leaving. It must be an American custom to leave $ on the table and walk out if you don't need change. They chased us down to settle the bill 3 times while we were in Budapest even though we had left plenty to cover the bill and tip. We finally caught on..