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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 4:38 pm
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A Proper Old Fashioned

For some odd reason this month, I have fallen in love with Old Fashioneds, and while I'm not a dedicated whiskey guy this cocktail blows my socks off. It seems like such a lovely sippin' attitude-adjuster to a stressful day. And I've grown to love it so much that I'm delving into the history and variations on this noble and venerable potion. I've read up on the history and recipes (including the Pendennis Club "myth" and the topping-with-seltzer controversy) and now I want to open it up to fellow cocktail lovers out there: What comprises a "proper" Old Fashioned to you? Either recipes or bartenders/locales would be welcome.

I'll add my own home formula after hearing from some of you first But I'll give you a hint: I use rye whiskey instead of bourbon.
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 6:15 pm
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Rye is nice, but not essential for me. I prefer that the bartender take care with the muddling--mashing the bitters in with the fruit and sugar is key, and slack bartenders often shortcut this. I also prefer one or two big chunks of ice, not smaller cubes or chips, or you just wind up with a big fruit slushy situation.
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 6:18 pm
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And forgot to mention: this drink was always associated with my (not very well-liked) step-grandmother, who always drank it with scotch. Every time she came to visit, we had to stock up on ingredients. Years later, I finally had one, and was actually surprised it was delicious! I don't really like the scotch variant, though.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:01 am
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The Old Fashioned owes its birth to heavy, harsh whisky, of the sort less seen today, and the need to ameliorate the "bite". Brands like Old Crow or Old Forester have the harsher "edge" befitting the cocktail, and other than Jim Beam's Rye or Old Overholt, there are just not many of the old style "heavy" ryes around. Don't bother with expensive Bourbon or Tennessees, especially sour mashes, as they are lost in the drink.

The classic, a thin slice of lemon, a teaspoon of castor or granulated sugar and a good multi-dash of bitters in the bottom of a heavy short glass, then "muddled" together with a sturdy cocktail spoon, adding an ounce of water (@room temp) stirred to dissolve sugar, then big, cold ice cubes (to slow melting), and about 2+ ounces of whisk(e)y as described above to fill the glass. I prefer the result "unstirred" to give slightly different flavors as consumed. The result and the tradition is a "strong drink", not an insipid watery mess.

The classic garnish involves a 1/4" slice of orange hooked over the glasses edge anda stemmed maraschino cherry. An old style bartender will leave the muddled lemon in the bottom to demonstrate the provenance.

.....But then, I prefer a Manhattan "Up", and made with Canadian whisky, sweet vermouth and a drop or two (less than a "dash") of bitters, and consider Persian limes as little more than colorful additions to a fruit centerpiece (Cocktail recipes benefit from ripe, light green Key limes), Martinis served in unchilled glasses are an affront to public decency, and a good host must have a flourishing mint bed beneath condensate drain of his HVAC as a well as silver goblets or stirrup cups, if he intends to offer Mint Juleps (and mint muddles best with heavy simple syrup, not granulated sugar).
"Sterling Silver" (Status conscious guests, especially FT-types, always look for proff marks.) and Dickel's #12 elevate the drink above celebrity swill class.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:42 am
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Originally Posted by TMOliver
The Old Fashioned owes its birth to heavy, harsh whisky, of the sort less seen today, and the need to ameliorate the "bite". Brands like Old Crow or Old Forester have the harsher "edge" befitting the cocktail, and other than Jim Beam's Rye or Old Overholt, there are just not many of the old style "heavy" ryes around. Don't bother with expensive Bourbon or Tennessees, especially sour mashes, as they are lost in the drink.

The classic, a thin slice of lemon, a teaspoon of castor or granulated sugar and a good multi-dash of bitters in the bottom of a heavy short glass, then "muddled" together with a sturdy cocktail spoon, adding an ounce of water (@room temp) stirred to dissolve sugar, then big, cold ice cubes (to slow melting), and about 2+ ounces of whisk(e)y as described above to fill the glass. I prefer the result "unstirred" to give slightly different flavors as consumed. The result and the tradition is a "strong drink", not an insipid watery mess.

The classic garnish involves a 1/4" slice of orange hooked over the glasses edge anda stemmed maraschino cherry. An old style bartender will leave the muddled lemon in the bottom to demonstrate the provenance.

.....But then, I prefer a Manhattan "Up", and made with Canadian whisky, sweet vermouth and a drop or two (less than a "dash") of bitters, and consider Persian limes as little more than colorful additions to a fruit centerpiece (Cocktail recipes benefit from ripe, light green Key limes), Martinis served in unchilled glasses are an affront to public decency, and a good host must have a flourishing mint bed beneath condensate drain of his HVAC as a well as silver goblets or stirrup cups, if he intends to offer Mint Juleps (and mint muddles best with heavy simple syrup, not granulated sugar).
"Sterling Silver" (Status conscious guests, especially FT-types, always look for proff marks.) and Dickel's #12 elevate the drink above celebrity swill class.
I've been muddling an orange slice (blood orange if I can find it) in the bottom of the glass with the sugar and bitters and using Maker's Mark, but I think I like your version better. I had referred to drinkboy.com in cobbling together a recipe I liked. Key for me is not to fill the glass with club soda--that results in something that's about as strong as Diet Sprite. I have to tell bartenders not to do this; not many know how to make a proper Old Fashioned anymore.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 3:00 pm
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Hmmm, a Blood Orange....

Nice idea and more than acceptable. I've been known to use the "heel" of the Valencia left after slicing "Garbage Garnish". I like your Blood Orange because the pith layer seems less bitter in that breed (just as Meyer lemons are to be preferred, with thin skin lemons second and those heavy, big thick rind lemons not at all). A little orange juice and peel improves another old drink, the "Sidecar" (a proper use for really bad brandy and from which the Margarita was likely developed).

I'm not sure where the pernicious custom of topping off with club soda first occurred, but it sort of defeats the intent - a booze boost which you feel alll the way down, and reveals a bar attempting to control costs, almost as bad as "watering" the whisky bottles in the well or on the bar back.

I learned bar tending as a young college student working part time as a bar man, taught by an elderly African American who had spent about six decades tending bar in private clubs (including an upscale 19th hole that catered to tycoons, politicians and gentlemen golfers and tennis players). He knew all the classics, could shuck oysters without gloves, and mixed a seduction-surety French 75, a drink invented to charm away knickers and likely capable even in today's market of releasing the elastic from the snuggest of thongs.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 11:30 am
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Originally Posted by TMOliver
Hmmm, a Blood Orange....

Nice idea and more than acceptable. I've been known to use the "heel" of the Valencia left after slicing "Garbage Garnish". I like your Blood Orange because the pith layer seems less bitter in that breed (just as Meyer lemons are to be preferred, with thin skin lemons second and those heavy, big thick rind lemons not at all). A little orange juice and peel improves another old drink, the "Sidecar" (a proper use for really bad brandy and from which the Margarita was likely developed).
I like the Meyer lemon idea--I'll have to try that. The blood orange is a little sweeter and more distinctive visually (OK, not crucial, but it does make it look like you put some thought into the drink and didn't just throw it together).


...

I learned bar tending as a young college student working part time as a bar man, taught by an elderly African American who had spent about six decades tending bar in private clubs (including an upscale 19th hole that catered to tycoons, politicians and gentlemen golfers and tennis players). He knew all the classics, could shuck oysters without gloves, and mixed a seduction-surety French 75, a drink invented to charm away knickers and likely capable even in today's market of releasing the elastic from the snuggest of thongs.
--and I'll have to try the French 75 as well, or, er, have someone else try it.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 1:13 pm
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When I was tending bar in a previous life, I had an adventurous regular who always wanted to try something different. One night I made him an Old Fashioned with Southern Comfort. The look on his face was priceless: first surprise, then a huge grin. This drink tastes exactly like Fruit Stripe gum.

It actually became popular for a while, in that bar.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:50 am
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Originally Posted by alanw
This drink tastes exactly like Fruit Stripe gum.
Wait. Is that supposed to be a good thing? I wouldn't think so.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:59 am
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"Sassafras" in PHL on 2nd, about a block south of Market.

Bit of a dive bar, but the bartenders are more than capable of mixing something other than vodka tonics, and (insert fruit here) martinis...
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 4:53 pm
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Originally Posted by BNA_flyer
I like the Meyer lemon idea--I'll have to try that. The blood orange is a little sweeter and more distinctive visually (OK, not crucial, but it does make it look like you put some thought into the drink and didn't just throw it together).
I'm trying Meyer lemon in my Old Fashioned tonight, and it's quite a nice combo of tart and mellow. I have been using mineolas frequently for OFs, but when I saw the Meyers at the market today I knew I had to use 'em. Instead of muddled sugar or simple syrup, I use blue agave syrup (and not much at that). And for bitters, I'm firmly in the Peychaud camp over Angostura, and I tend to dash in more than normal.

After making OFs with rye, bourbon/Tennessee whiskey and Canadian whiskey, I can tell you that rye is the winner...such a delicious spiciness with rye in the mix that I don't get with bourbon whiskey. Of those I've found, 90 proof Sazerac rye suits me best. The old reliable Old Overholt is just not interesting enough for me, and the Wild Turkey Rye tastes overproofed and, well, bourbon-like.

Finally, it's interesting to experiment with the OF style (without adding seltzer, or course). Have you tried using Tennessee whiskey as the spirit and muddled peach instead of citrus? OMG it's good sippin' I just love the venerable Old Fashioned style of taking "hard likker" (or "hahd likkah", depending on where you live ) to the next level.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 4:27 pm
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This discussion is killing me. I'm off the sauce currently, due to stomach ailments. Argh. It's just about nice early-evening cocktail hour too...
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 10:16 am
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Originally Posted by marais
Finally, it's interesting to experiment with the OF style (without adding seltzer, or course). Have you tried using Tennessee whiskey as the spirit and muddled peach instead of citrus? OMG it's good sippin' I just love the venerable Old Fashioned style of taking "hard likker" (or "hahd likkah", depending on where you live ) to the next level.
As a Tennessee native I should be using Jack Daniel's , but I've been turning to Maker's Mark lately. Maybe I'll throw together a peach-enhanced Jack Daniel's OF tonight, though.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 1:15 pm
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I thought we were talking about donuts.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 5:44 pm
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Originally Posted by BNA_flyer
As a Tennessee native I should be using Jack Daniel's , but I've been turning to Maker's Mark lately. Maybe I'll throw together a peach-enhanced Jack Daniel's OF tonight, though.
I'd love to hear how your experiment worked! Tonight I tried a combo of mineola and Meyer lemon with some Early Times (=cheap) bourbon, and man did it go down smoothly. The citrus combo gave my drink some incredible character

Up here in BOS we get peaches from CT which may not be the GA standard but are still quite good...so I may replicate the experience with JD (with a Meyers for added juice) tomorrow.
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