It's a great time to go because there are so few tourists. As an earlier post mention, Papa Noel rates are terrific. I took my husband on our delayed honeymoon using HH points at the Riverside (far enough out of the French Quarter to work off all that great dining) and US miles so we had plenty to spare for dining, sites, and holiday shopping.

My choices - NOLA's tasting menu, Acme Oyster (if its really busy, head across the street to Felix's), Alex Patout's, and Commander's Palace for Sunday brunch. Also, for great morning treats, Croissant D'Or on Ursaline is a local favorite.

Take a (daytime) walk to the D-Day Museum - its an increadible experience.

I must agree, I don't care for NOLA during MardiGras or JazzFest [aka DrunkFest]. In fact I think the city is best explored in the off-season. All the music and the restaurants are still there.

Here's a great hotel, http://www.dauphineorleans.com/index.html Not a real business-type hotel, but a great place to take a spouse or a date.

Z

Commander's Palace -- if not for dinner, then for the weekend jazz brunch

So go to Deanies in Bucktown, which is right up from Veterne (I'm blanking on the street) up near the Lake. Great down home seafood, if you order the Seafood Platter is literally a MOUND of fried seafood and fish, it's great but feeds up to 4 people....don't order one for each person like some of my friends did (and I forget to warn them). There's also Drago's which has a nice lobster but really the best is the BBQ oysters for an appetizer. Oki Nari is a Asian seafood buffett which is great too.

the food is AMAZING and very affordable, even for Charity Hospital residents....

So here are my suggestions and where I take my friends:

Commanders Palace for weekday lunchs, great 2 course lunches which change daily and in the teens, of course you must get the Bread Pudding soufflee....also $.25 martinis, and just one of the best deals in town...oh try the their Turtle Soup and/or one of the Gumbos too....

Jacque Imos (just opened on in NYC) which is Uptown off Carrelton and on Oak St. It's what I call a Neuveau New Orleans restaurant, very decadent cooking with lots of great seafood, fresh fishes, the Carpetbagger Steak (blue cheese, onions on a great tenderloin smothered in holindase sauce), duck and must try the Shrimp & alligator sausage cheesecake appitizer (sounds kind of gross but its a creamy, spicy quiche-sort-of-like creation). My best suggestion is to go on Tuesday night, after dinner go next door to the Maple Leaf to hear the Rebirth Brass Band. On weekends, the restaurant is very packed, can wait up to 2-3 hours, but actually worth the wait. Reservations only for groups of 5 or more. Beware they often close for August.

Elizabeths in the Bywater area (Charters and Gallier). This is a very local place that is the best brunch spots in town. Small place with great "Neuveau Southern Cooking" such as Soft shell crab meuinere over cheese grits, fresh strawberry cream cheese stuffed french toast, or praline bacon for starters. Open only for breakfast and lunch on the weekdays with 1-2 speicals, but sat is the day to go with usually 5-6 specials. Beware they are CLOSED on SUNDAYS. If you are around for Jazzfest weekend....this is the only time of year that they are open for dinners....also save room for dessert or homemade ice cream
http://www.elizabeths-restaurant.com/

The Emerils restaurants are very good, but not my fav (there's NOLA, Emerils and Delmonico). It's not pricey by fine dining scales but it is for the local scene....you won't be disappointed but I haven't been back

Marisols on Esplanade does a great happy hour Tapas with 30-40 things on the menu from 5-7. Their meals are excellent as well and the outdoor patio dining is quite romantic

Restaurant August would be my fine dining choice for the city. Great food and service.

Finally you must have beignets "French donuts" at Cafe du Monde in Jackson Square and have a cafe au lait or hot chocolate. Don't get them from any where else.

There are so many amazing restaurants.....Enjoy...

So the key to enjoying these events is knowing how the locals do it....I recommend Mardi Gras for everyone....it is a very big family event if done the right way. Mardi Gras is a season and culminates in about 16 days of continuous parades at least 2-3 per night on the weekdays and then more on the weekend...my suggestion is to come TWO weekends before the big day OR come the weekdays between the two Mardi Gras weekends....also go Uptown on St Charles in the Garden District or further up. Its much less crowded, very interactive and fun for the whole family. You'll be amazed at how much you get into catching plastic beads.....also there are some unique parades such as Barkus the very last dog parade through the French Quarter in which the pets and owners must come in costume....

Jazzfest is great but French Quarter Fest a few weekend beforehand is much better and FREE.....

And yes, NOLA is great off season as well....

last post.....

So in December check out the Christmas concerts at 7 PM in St Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square in the French Quarter. They happen every night for at least 3 weeks and each night features a different musician or group (such as Ellis Marsalis, Theresa Anderson, choirs) and for free. Also there are 2 nights where they do Caroling in the Park which is fun. Also can be a bit surreal if you are from up north like me (Minnesota) to be drinking daiquiries in shorts during a nice 70 degree evening singing Xmas carols....

Jacques-imo Cafe
Location: Uptown
8324 Oak Street, New Orleans
504-861-0886


This is a locals place and they fill up fast... but it is sooo good. Do not miss it...

70 degrees at night in December is NOT the norm for New Orleans, is it? I enjoy the city year-round but I recall the winters still being rather brisk, especially at night.

there really is not a NORM for weather in NOLA. Sometimes on Christmas day we are wearing shorts and other time it is sweaters and hats. You just never know.

I noticed that you didn't include the Palace Cafe' on your list - it's one of my favorites without having to travel to the Garden District.

Tell me more about Marisols. That sounds incredible. How expensive for the tapas menu that you referenced?

I find the Palace Cafe to be WAY overrated. As a NOLA girl I only go there if guests/clients insist. It is on Canal Street and attracts many tourists. The decibel level in that restaurant is incredibly loud. It is true that is owned by the Brennan family of New Orleans but I think for less money you can get better food, service and ambience. YMMV

I don't disagree with you on most of your points. However, as a visitor to NOLA, I find the location much more convenient than having to trek to Commander's Palace.

Some of the best restaurants that I have ever visited in the world have been some of the noisiest. However, I've never found anything about the food or service lacking at the Palace Cafe, IMHO. I will give you that I have never been to the Cafe' at primetime dinner - I typically eat an early dinner or have been there for brunch/lunch. @:-)

Palace Cafe is popular, but wasn't impressed the one time I was there. My friends were, but I prefer the original Palace.

Marisols (http://www.marisolrestaurant.com/) is wonderful. The tapas are a mere $4 each....great for an early dinner, wine and chatting with some friends. I've been there about a 1/2 dozen times and have been very pleased each time. Last meal I had there was with 3 other friends, we each had one of their amazing soups (Duck Soup with sherry for me), 9 tapas, a couple drinks and dessert (the best Key Lime I've had ever and the molten chocolate cake was of course great). I think the total bill was $120.

It's located on Esplanade which is on the far side of the French Quarter (other side of the hotels) in the Marigney Triangle neighborhood, right near Frenchman Street. It's not a big place and am always impressed on the size and depth of the menu. They claim to have the largest selection of Artesian cheeses as well....

Now do'nt forget about the Susan Spicer restaurants too (Herbsaint and I do'nt know why I can never remember the other one) are yummy and I think better than the Emerils restaurants.

Marisol's Restaurant

http://www.marisolrestaurant.com/