Next week is one of the holiday weeks here so I'm currently trying to figure out where to go. Most domestic destinations are pretty expensive this year, but I learned today that Wulumuqi (Urumqi) is not; only y720 (a 70% discount, I think).

So, now my friend and I are thinking about going out there and would love to see some cool stuff. Kanas Lake would be great, but that might be tough to pull off, given our lack of planning. Also, my friend has to be back in SH on Friday (I don't).

Anyway, suggestions from those of you that have traveled around Xinjiang would be appreciated. (Boy, I really should pick up a new LP.)

One of those impossible to answer questions, since no information on likes, preferences, levels of comfort, or tolerance for long distance travel is provided, or any definition of 'cool stuff'.

If it were me, I'd leave Urumqi immediately (vile place), and head by bus (frequent departures) for Turpan and spend two nights there, with one spent touring the ruined cities, caves, scenery, etc. Then take the new railway line around the top of the Taklamakan as far as Kuqa, and visit the various Kyzil caves and Subashi ruined city. Double back a little and cross the Taklamakan north to south by bus to Khotan (Hetian), hoping to catch the market there. Finally up by bus to Kashgar and fly back to Urumqi.

I don't see why the lake would be a problem. Everything in China is arranged at short notice, and money buys service.

But personally I'd rather set fire to myself than buy something as illiterate, ignorant, and generally ill-informed as another edition of LP China. In the last couple of editions I've looked at the Xinjiang section wasn't even written by a Mandarin speaker, and was about as far off the mark on just about every subject as can be.

Peter N-H

Thank you for your advice. I, too, am not a big LP fan, but have found that those guys make hip shot trips to certain places a little more managable. For example, assuming we actually make it to Altay and require lodging, an LP would provide me with maps and phone numbers. By contrast, blue blood guides like Fodor's would (probaby) leave me high and dry.

Speaking of Altay, several sites suggest that it's possible to fly there from Urumqi, which would be desirable in light of my friend's compressed schedule. Yet, ~2 hours on Google and Ctrip last night lead me to the conclusion that there are no flights now (it's listed on CZ's site as a destination, but apparently is destination sans flights).

In any event, I'm not all that worried, having done trips like this in the past. The basic plan is to: 1) show up in Urumqi; 2) make a push for somewhere better; and 3) make my way back to either Beijing or Shanghai.

If successful and interesting, I will post a trip report here.

BTW, here is one of the Kanas links that has inspired my vision:

http://home.wangjianshuo.com/archive...e_xinjiang.htm

This assumes anyone's been back up there for the last few 'updates', that that person knew what he or she was doing, and that the maps and phone numbers are correct. I might grudgingly admit that carrying the book was better than nothing at all, but only if carried with a sceptical attitude.

But these are, of course, not the only choices, although who in fact covers Altay I couldn't say. I've travelled extensively in Xinjiang, but not that far north. However, I'd say that you'd certainly find better information on-line than you'll find in either LP or Fodor's. If you have specific queries about Altay, why not post on The Oriental-List? There's been some very detailed information on other corners of Xinjiang of late. Send a blank email to [email protected].

According to my timetable there were two flights a day at least up to 23 March. Go into a travel agent and ask about HU7432 and CZ6842.

Exactly. Piece of cake.

Thanks for all of your advice. The guy I was going to travel with just pulled himself out of contention so now, if I go, I will need to hook up with 3 different friends that went out there today and attach myself to their itin (bold as I am, I've been advised not to do Xinjiang solo). They are currently in Kashgar and plan to start the Karakorum Highway (sp) tomorrow night, but are willing to wait till Monday afternoon for me to get there, if need be. Otherwise, I can meet them on Thursday somewhere else (thankfully, they actually planned things out and have a reasonable idea of where they'll be).

But, here's a question. A large part of my desire to travel has to do with the fact that Beijing's air quality is torturous right now (imagine if the world outside your house was equivalent to the inside of a poorly ventilated dive bar). The current pollution has been caused by sand/dust (as opposed to factories and cars). TMK, Xinjiang is even sandier and dustier than BJ. So, would going there merely prolong my agony? (If "yes", you will have given me all the added motivation needed to push me to use up my open C ticket to BKK so I can laze away in Samui; otherwise, I will probably bite the bullet and go west.)

Edited to add: If I go, Kanas is now no longer in the cards because the guys that are out there couldn't work it in to their itin.

Presumably they're only going as far as Tashkurgan, or perhaps with an official guide as far as the actual border without crossing it? Otherwise a Pakistani visa will be necessary, of course. The route on the Chinese side is pleasant enough, but the run down through Pakistan is unbeatable.

Well, the sand's there all year round of course. It's not the sand that's your problem, but the wind, which is seasonal.

However the answer's 'no'--there are no similar conditions to worry about in Xinjiang, although watching the more limited wind-sand interaction in the desert make dust devils is part of the entertainment. Of course, the sand storms of the Taklamakan are part of its many legends (see accounts of Xuanzang and Faxian) but I managed to spend about 18 months in the area without ever seeing a single one.

My guess would be that this comes either directly or indirectly from Han Chinese, many of whom have a xenophobic attitude to minority areas, even describing Yunnan as dangerous, and almost all of whom still prefer to travel in groups. Travelling in Xinjiang independently doesn't require being bold. It just requires tickets.

I think you're right about no Pakistan in the plans. One of the SMS I got from them mentioned tashkurgan and kuqaturpan after Karakorum Highway. I haven't bothered to research those places yet, but perhaps you are familiar. Basically, I'd like to be able to catch them en route so they don't have to wait around for me to reach Kashgar.

As it now looks like I�m definitely going, I would like to continue this thread in a trip report so check it:

http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5711625