I've been thinking about the cautions against trying to drive in BsAs and how supposedly non-Argentinians wouldn't have the stomach for driving amid the locals.

Actually I was surprised at how much milder it seemed than I had expected. One thing I did notice is that when our driver wanted to change lanes he would start to straddle the next lane (in a way giving notice to the others that he wanted to move into that lane) but at the same time, he wouldn't actually move in, unless the drivers in the new lane let him. If they continued to go straight, even if they were behind, our driver would continue driving straddled.

The upshot is that a 6 lane road could have 8 lanes of traffic in it... sort of.

I also noticed that when someone moved, say, to a lane to the right of his current lane, then he would move up confidently beside big motor vehicles like busses and trucks. That would be where you might need the confidence of your actions. It was only rare that there would be a "thread the needle" feel to the lane change.

Finally, it seems as though once committed, you cannot falter. No change of heart permitted.

As far as the highways go, I didn't feel it was any different from the Massachusetts drivers I deal with daily.

Oh, by the way, I mostly sat in the front with the driver, since my companions (husband, sister & her boyfriend) didn't speak Spanish. By sitting up front I could chat with the driver and hone my Spanish a teeny bit. So since I was up front I got a real feel for how the driving went.

Rita

Although I haven't driven in BsAs, I'd drive there before driving in any major European capital city center.

I just expected to be holding my breath while praying... and it just wasn't like that.
R.

Though I haven't driven in BA, I remember the driving technique you've described. BA driving style is similar to, but nowhere near as aggressive, as that which I see in China (the lane sharing technique is also common).

When I visited BA I had a friend drive me around the city. When I asked why they bothered putting lines on the road he laughed and said "they are for decorations". A day in the car driving around BA with a hang over is not pretty

They are truly mad on the roads

I drive in many European capitals and have had no major issues in Europe. Comparable to that, I find Buenos Aires is more free-wheeling (i.e., haphazard) than any of the European OECD countries' capitals (including Rome) but the drivers in Buenos Aires are also more aware. The "headaches" mostly comes in play during rush hours but you have to be aware at all times.

On net, I minimize my driving in Buenos Aires (Capital Federal) far more than I do in Europe, but that's more for reasons related to the cheapness of cabs and my strong distaste looking for parking (even when free/cheap).

While I wouldn't generally suggest that people drive in Buenos Aires (more than they have to), that's mostly because cabs are cheap there and secondarily because it does take an adjustment for people who are mostly only truly comfortable driving in the US (and Canada) and don't have extensive international driving experience.

[For perspective about where I'm coming from: I'll drive anywhere in Europe (including say Greece) and am perfectly comfortable driving in very busy urban traffic conditions in the US but would generally do whatever I can to avoid driving in say Egypt, India or China.]

GUWonder, yes, you are right... the taxis are incredibly inexpensive. And that does make it easier to get around than driving. Also they know where they're going, so unless you're very familiar with the city, it's just one less responsibility by taking a cab.

But one thing my husband and I like to do is just drive and look. So, for example, if we were going to go to an estancia, it would be fun to drive out on our own... stopping where we saw fit, and finding little gems of experiences.

But the balance so far is still tipped toward using taxis, I would guess.
Rita

Its a lot of fun to drive in Buenos Aires, as you can get away with speeding, and there is really no other way to enjoy a nice drive unless you can play with the throttle.

Driving in EZE is not for the faint hearted, and for most visitors I strongly suggest to avoid getting behind the wheel.

This is somewhat OT, but does anyone have a link to information about agreements between Argentina and other governments on drivers' licenses? In particular, I'm curious whether there's any way I can get an Argentine license without having to go through the whole road test, physical, etc. The Buenos Aires governmental web site doesn't mention any alternative, but I've heard that it might be possible, for instance, to convert a Spanish license.

Your best bet at this is to obtain an international drivers licence, and use that in EZE. I dont know that its possible to convert a US issued licence, but maybe the local authorities will honor an international licence.

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_p.../cis_1130.html

Ive never heard of a US drivers license holder having issues with not getting the license accepted outside of Buenos Aires. As long as you are in a rental car, you will be fine.

FWIW, if US tourists would go by the book on everything the State Department publishes, not a single US citizen would leave US soil....

Ahh driving in Argentina?

I let my wife do the driving when we are over and that is in a small town, even as a native she quibbles at the thought of driving in BA not so much that she can't hold her own with the rest on the autopista but at the speed you have to go at, it's impossible to read the signposts!!! So we stick to taxis in BA ,far more enjoyable.

One observation of my mother in law's driving technique is that she just drives any way she wants and spends most of the time shouting "hijos da puta"

You have no idea how hard it was for me to post that -- for just the reasons you are covering. (Well, it wasn't that hard, I just got lazy. )

Lesson: Not everything a government agency says is necessarily wholly accurate or complete.